It's all about perception!
thank you, I'm as artistic as a brick so anything I do has to be from a plan, this one is from Woodsmith called a 'chest of drawers'
@oldman_potteringfiddled around with a bandsaw box and waiting for glue to dry decided to make some push paddles for using at the jointer, I have a template for the handles so it was a job for the flush trim bit at the router, went ok until I ran the wood the wrong way and nearly blew the thing out of my hand, damn thing scares me coz I'm not real good at grain direction reading, got 'em done and added some adhesive backed sandpaper to them
A resolution for everyone here, it turned out not half bad, remembering that this is a shop after all.
That bandsaw guide is a great idea ! I like those mirror handles, do you insert the glass in the frame or glue it ?@oldman_pottering
I struggle with the same issue when make a run of these hand mirrors from time to time.
The curved section at the bottom of the handle is especially troublesome when template routing.
I can usually mange by paying strict attention but sometimes if the wood has a very figured grain the tearout is still a problem.
This is a template guide that I made for use at the bandsaw. If it’s set up right and the blade is in good condition I’m able to trim very close to the template with no danger of tearout.
You can see the waste cutoff to the right of the mirror blank.
I will then clean up the edge using a drum sander with a top bearing.
Just something I’ve tried to keep from scarring the **** outta myself when the bit grabs.
I loved your bandsaw box as well as your comment about being ”as artistic as a brick”. I can so relate to that description
I have admiration for those of you that can design, 3D print, photoshop etc and make items like theseYesterday I made another reproduction data plate for my 1954 Dodge M37. The original plate showing transmission, transfer case, and road speed information was barely readable. The original is an etched brass plate with slightly raised letters and a chemically blackened background, and I wanted to make the replacement in the same way.
Here's the old ORIGINAL plate after scanning it and making several image adjustments in Photoshop, which enhanced the detail enough to use it as a model for making a replacement.
I placed the above image into Adobe InDesign and scaled it to actual size, and then re-drew the plate from scratch. I made two versions; one is a pretty accurate rendition of the original, and the other has 'improved' spacing and alignment of the contents. I did the latter just for fun. I'm actually planning to use the more accurate version on my vehicle to be more faithful to the original.
I then printed reversed positive films of the design. They are reversed in order to place the ink side of the film directly against the photoresist film to produce sharper edges on the photoresist image.
Then I applied photoresist film to a couple of sheets of .025" brass, exposed the photoresist through the above positive films, developed the photoresist to remove the unexposed portions, immersed the brass sheets in a special etching solution, blackened the background with Brass Black from Birchwood Casey, and removed the remaining photoresist with acetone. I also applied a thin clear satin acrylic coating, which deepened the black.
Here are both versions:
View attachment 2192610
The one shown below is the one I'll be using, which is most similar to the original.
The process is a bit tedious, but kind of fun. The hardest part (for me) is applying the photoresist film to the metal without getting any bubbles in it, but after doing a few data plates I'm getting better at it.
Thanks. IMHO, if one works on things that are satisfying or fun to work on, the skills and knowledge will usually develop naturally.
You screw a piece a 1x2 to the wall above the metal, then screw a piece of 1x3 to that with the top edges flush so the bottom edge of the 1x3 covers the front 1in of the metal. Then you take a piece of 1x4 & mount it flat to the top of the 1x2 & 1x3 to create a narrow shelf the length of the metal paneling.
I feel your pain. Both tractors are marking their respective territories, so probably I will tackle that when cold weather arrives. What's up with the Dingo?
I went to college for engineering. CAD is taught in the engineering basics class.
It's ****** dead, Jim.
Won't know till I rip into it. It's bound to be entertaining.
Do you feel the vibration more in your seat? Or in the steering wheel? Might give a clue to whether it's in the steering, or the drive line?It's all about perception!
Later, I cut some pool noodles for the new truck (they go on the top of the tailgate, under the kayaks) and drug some cardboard over to peek at the U-joints...it's still vibrating at 70+, after the new tires. All of the joints look fine but the carrier bearing seems a little floppy. I think I'll give that a shot.
Unfortunately, it looks like there's several leaks going on, including the transfer case. I'll clean it up so I can monitor, then probably take it to the mechanic...no way/desire to pull an engine, trans, or x-case. It's had the rear main replaced twice but it's never stopped leaking, so I wonder if the old mechanic didn't loosen the rear main bearing while installing or what. Might end up being both mains, plus x-case input and rear output seals.
''It's ****** dead, Jim.'' Star Trek reference? I love it.lol
that's an awesome looking garage !Moved Dad's '73 Mustang into the front room of his garage. It's been stashed in the back room since '87. Time to return it to the streets!
Yup. And nope. Plenty of fluid and oil in it. It maybe lost a gallon out of 10.
Not sure, I'll pay more attention the next time I drive it. Although the captain's chair is so cushy I'm not sure I could feel an earthquake through it. Thanks!
