Height for 4 post 12 feet?

[Seabornman]

Hi. New here, am and planning my dream garage. I'm looking at 4 post (haven't made model decision but I'm using Bendpak HD-9 for dimensions) for restoration/rebuild of classics and occasional maintenance of family vehicles. I am considering conventional frame construction using 12 foot studs. I'm also thinking of attic trusses so no opportunity for height with scissors. All is fine height wise until I put on my Ram 1500 or Promaster 2500. Is it easy to avoid raising the lift too high? I'd hate to be thoughtlessly running a truck into the ceiling.
A second question: how much distance from garage door to beginning of ramp? I'll be building a flat floor. I can make grade at exterior fairly gentle. I just don't want to waste space. Thanks!

 

[NUTTSGT]

Consider a few course of block with the stud wall sitting atop of it to gain wall height.

Make sure you have a tall enough door that you can easily get the full size truck in. The closer the ramp is to the door, the taller the truck will get coming through the door as it comes in riding the ramp.

 

[Yankeefarmer]

A Promaster 2500 can be 8’6” high or so, more if you have a ladder rack. That means you’ll need a minimum door height of 9’. The door height should not be a concern when driving onto the lift, since the ramps tend to be about 2’ long, My ramps sit only about 3-4” inside the door, so I can close the door without removing them.

I have marked the post on my lift simply using a sharpie, with the height I use for our various vehicles. You could do the same to make it easy not to raise too high by simply watching your marks, after establishing them with a careful trial. Just remember, you need to leave a couple inches of clearance to raise the lift off its locks to lower it.

 

[66Caprice]

Put your lift off to one side of the garage and use vaulted ceiling trusses in that area then use the attic trusses for the rest of the building.

 

[AC-WC]

If at all possible do what 66Caprice suggested for vaulted trusses. It will give you peace of mind for height especially with trucks/caps. I have a 2 poster but read a lot about 4 posts. You should youtube heidi and franny. Not my lifestyle but lots of good info on their 3-4 post setups. Most folks I have read about were always banging heads on the ramps when in the up position. Others had issues with ramps sticking outside the door opening and causing vehicle loading issues.

 

[giddygoat]

I run a HD9 four post , 12 ft door, 13ft 6 inch ceiling. end of ramps about 8 ft from door. the door when it is up limits how high the lift can be. on pickups with toppers or suburban type vehicles it can be a issue. Crewcab f350 pickups with no topper fit as the cab is past the reach of the door. If there is only 12 ft total you will be very limited, a truck is almost 7 ft, add 4 to 5 inches for the runner your down to 4 ft 8 inches. Cars might be ok, Suv or pickup no. I would go 14 ft and at least 12 ft door. Open door will limit you unless the lift is in farther which is not all that bad if there is room to put another vehicle behind it.

 

[racecougar]

Agreed with considering a stem wall (for reasons beyond just gaining ceiling height) and marking your post for the main vehicles that will be on the lift. As far as running a vehicle into the ceiling goes, if you're paying that little attention when operating the lift, you should NOT be operating a lift.


Here are some visuals using vehicles of differing heights. This is a 12'7" ceiling height. Building is 30'x60'.

 

[Seabornman]

Agreed with considering a stem wall (for reasons beyond just gaining ceiling height) and marking your post for the main vehicles that will be on the lift. As far as running a vehicle into the ceiling goes, if you're paying that little attention when operating the lift, you should NOT be operating a lift.


Here are some visuals using vehicles of differing heights. This is a 12'7" ceiling height. Building is 30'x60'.

Nice setup and what I have in mind. Is it conventional framing or pole barn style?

 

[racecougar]

Nice setup and what I have in mind. Is it conventional framing or pole barn style?

In between. It follows the panel-frame method, using laminated posts and commercial/bookshelf girts on a full foundation with a floating slab. It's a strong, efficient building structure.

https://bblusa.net/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/BBL_PanelFrame.pdf

This old photo of me putting up the ceiling shows the framing:

 

[Adaylate]

I built my shop like 66 Caprice suggests.
Stick built, 12 foot walls 10-12 pitch, with a 5-12 vault in one bay.
The rest is attic trusses with living quarters.

Good luck!

 

[kbuhagiar]

I have marked the post on my lift simply using a sharpie, with the height I use for our various vehicles. You could do the same to make it easy not to raise too high by simply watching your marks, after establishing them with a careful trial. Just remember, you need to leave a couple inches of clearance to raise the lift off its locks to lower it.

Same method here, but I use masking tape. Easy reference points for lift height.

 

[J Persons]

I have a Bendpak HD9 and 12' walls. I can take my F-150 up to within 6" of the trusses. Have to bend over to avoid hitting my head on the runways, but most everything is accessible underneath. I stop at the 6" mark because you must raise the vehicle off the locks a little to get it down. I'm also using a commercial type steel roll up door, it doesn't intrude into the lift area.

 

[66Caprice]

I did forget to mention that you will want to add high lift overhead door rails for the garage door. That way they will follow the ceiling angle of the truss.