Who makes a FOUR INCH DIAMETER abrasive wheel?

[four.cycle]

I've run multiple searches and I'm not having a lot of luck here.
All I get for search results are 4-inch cut-off discs like one would use for an angle grinder.
This is for an antique bench grinder.
FOUR inch diameter. ONE inch thick. Shaft is 3/8" diameter, but I can most likely find a bushing if the hole is 1/2".
Not so much concerned about "grit" as I am simply finding something to FIT.
Any leads?

 

[john.k]

Tool and cutter grinders use 4" wheels .

 

[dutchgray]

You want to find an abrasive wheel supplier and ask them.

 

[BillK]

McMaster Carr has them in almost any size you want.

MSC has a 5" x 1" Looks like you probably have enough room for that ?

Pardon Our Interruption

 

[four.cycle]

cool. just shot 'em a note. thanks.
never dealt with them. I see positive comments here about them.

 

[blazemaster83]

Hmmm, I know I have some 3 inch stones like that, but not sure about 4 inch. I can check. If I do I'll send you a few for the price of shipping. Years ago I inherited a truck load of new grinding wheels of all sizes.

Edit: just noticed you are only 20 mins north of me lol.

 

[rlitman]

...MSC has a 5" x 1" Looks like you probably have enough room for that ?...[/URL]

Looks to me like there's enough room for a 6" stone when you reposition the guard rest to a more suitable location.

 

[four.cycle]

McMaster-Carr was a no-go.

Hmmm, I know I have some 3 inch stones like that, but not sure about 4 inch. I can check. If I do I'll send you a few for the price of shipping. Years ago I inherited a truck load of new grinding wheels of all sizes.

Edit: just noticed you are only 20 mins north of me lol.

Hey, I'll be more than happy to drive down for ONE.

Looks to me like there's enough room for a 6" stone when you reposition the guard to a more suitable location.

OH? Really?
Hadn't even occurred to me. I'm still trying to get that wing nut off of that screw where that L-shaped "guard" thing is attached.

 

[RTM]

OH? Really?
Hadn't even occurred to me. I'm still trying to get that wing nut off of that screw where that L-shaped "guard" thing is attached.

That guard is your tool rest. No safety on this grinder.

 

[four.cycle]

I knew what he meant. that "L" shaped widget is what you rest the chisel/axe/whatever on. Stand back and let the sparks fly!
A six-inch wheel would be better, would it not? I would think that once you got it spinning, the velocity would be greater, no? (not requiring so much work, possibly?)(or am I just imagining things?)
You think it would really fit? Not sure how big the wheels are on my other machine now I'm going to have to check.
Would prefer to put it back to original, obviously, but if there are no other options....

 

[rlitman]

I knew what he meant. that "L" shaped widget is what you rest the chisel/axe/whatever on. Stand back and let the sparks fly!
A six-inch wheel would be better, would it not? I would think that once you got it spinning, the velocity would be greater, no? (not requiring so much work, possibly?)(or am I just imagining things?)
You think it would really fit? Not sure how big the wheels are on my other machine now I'm going to have to check.
Would prefer to put it back to original, obviously, but if there are no other options....

Yeah, my apologies for posting before coffee, but you got it. A bigger wheel isn't only faster at the edge, it also has a lot more angular momentum, and you need as much flywheel effect as you can get with a hand powered grinder. Measure from the center of the arbor to the feet and see if you have 3" of clearance. If so, then 6" will fit.

I have an appreciation for old wingnuts and hardware (square headed bolts and slotted screws too), so unlike a lot of restorations I see, I would try hard to keep the original, though I also have drawers of old hardware and could easily dig up an age appropriate carriage bolt, and in all fairness, I doubt a modern carriage bolt would look out of place either, so that's not necessarily worth saving.

I'd give it a good soak, and if that doesn't free the wingnut up to hand disassembly, I'd turn to the blue wrench.

 

[four.cycle]

^ okay... so I'm not imagining things: a larger wheel makes for less work and more efficient performance from the machine.

as to the hardware: we're on the same page, which is why it's still connected. I could saw it off, or force it and break it, but I'll just let it soak until it hopefully breaks free. It's just a 1/4-20 x 3/4" carriage bolt, really - I might well have a replacement out in the garage in an old coffee can, but only the original is the original - you can't take that back.

I'm also hoping that little oil cup thingie at the top is good. When I was about 12, my old man was clearing out a shelf and gave me a couple boxes full of those little things - they used to sell them individually for people who were repairing their generators at home.
Sold them for 2 cents for the smaller ones, 3 cents for the larger ones. Kind of wish I'd kept them now.

This thing is a cast iron housing with a cast iron cover plate that attaches with three 1/4-20 x 1/2" round-head stove bolts. No gasket?
So.... I guess it was okay to just allow the oil to dribble out of the bottom of the thing all over the floor? No gasket or anything?

 

[rlitman]

...
I'm also hoping that little oil cup thingie at the top is good. When I was about 12, my old man was clearing out a shelf and gave me a couple boxes full of those little things - they used to sell them individually for people who were repairing their generators at home.
Sold them for 2 cents for the smaller ones, 3 cents for the larger ones. Kind of wish I'd kept them now.

This thing is a cast iron housing with a cast iron cover plate that attaches with three 1/4-20 x 1/2" round-head stove bolts. No gasket?
So.... I guess it was okay to just allow the oil to dribble out of the bottom of the thing all over the floor? No gasket or anything?

If it opens and closes, it's fine. It's just a dust cover to hold a few drops of oil. Use something particularly thick and it won't run out too badly. In fact, if you have something like NLGI 00 pourable grease (think Skillsaw worm gear "oil"), that shouldn't run out the bottom too badly.

 

[four.cycle]

^ you mean like the $40-dollar-a-bottle stuff you put into the transmission case on a Snapper walk-behind? got almost a whole bottle!

 

[ohhimark]

I've had this one in a box longer than I can remember. They come up on ebay from time to time.

 

[garfunkle24]

whoops\