Need input on a Snap-on scissor lift - leaking fluid

[TR6]

Hi, new to the forum (just registered). I hope I'm posting in the right place. I am looking at a used Snap-On mid rise scissor lift that is probably 8 years old. The guy is asking $1000 for it. After some dickering, the lowest I can get him is $800. That seems a very fair price for what looks like a very sturdy and well built lift. I watched it in action. But it is seeping some hydraulic fluid. I think it is seeping a bit from the top seal of the hydraulic ram. The guy said it only seeps when you take the lift all the way up. Then he said that it could be cured by bleeding the hydraulic system. He said he had just moved it from one shop to another and had disconnected the hydraulic hose which means that it needs to be bled. That sounds doubtful to me as to why it would be seeping fluid. Anyone have any thoughts or advice on this? If I buy it, I'm guessing I could have the seal replaced or even take the ram somewhere to be serviced? Do you bleed these things? If so, how?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Thanks, Greg

 

[Hiball]

Hi, new to the forum (just registered). I hope I'm posting in the right place. I am looking at a used Snap-On mid rise scissor lift that is probably 8 years old. The guy is asking $1000 for it. After some dickering, the lowest I can get him is $800. That seems a very fair price for what looks like a very sturdy and well built lift. I watched it in action. But it is seeping some hydraulic fluid. I think it is seeping a bit from the top seal of the hydraulic ram. The guy said it only seeps when you take the lift all the way up. Then he said that it could be cured by bleeding the hydraulic system. He said he had just moved it from one shop to another and had disconnected the hydraulic hose which means that it needs to be bled. That sounds doubtful to me as to why it would be seeping fluid. Anyone have any thoughts or advice on this? If I buy it, I'm guessing I could have the seal replaced or even take the ram somewhere to be serviced? Do you bleed these things? If so, how?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Thanks, Greg

Almost all Hydraulic Systems need to be bled from one time or another, Most of the time its because its been moved or run low on oil. The Seeping fluid has nothing to do with Needing to be bled. Do you have a Model number? Picture? I can look into my book and possibly give you some more info on what Worst case scenario is, To be honest its probably something you can fix on your own. I suspect they are 1 way cylinders but i need to make sure before we get into bleeding procedures.

 

[Hiball]

Oh.. And Welcome To Garage Journal.

 

[mrshaun]

that has not happened to any in my route. hi ball may be really right on that one.

 

[TR6]

Not sure of the model but it looks exactly like this one:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40330&referrerid=62399

 

[Hiball]

Looks like your typical 1 way cylinder, I would use the leaking Cylinder as a Negotiating point. I can Promise you that if its Seaping oil out the Ram end, the Main seal is compromised. It may be a small split, but never the less a problem that needs to be fixed and im confident you can still get the OEM seals.

 

[TR6]

Hiball, thanks for the input. As far as a negotiating point, the guy says he won't go below $800 (he's asking $1000). I started out at $500 and then told him $700 was my best. He turned it down and I walked away. If it does have a leaking seal, does $800 sound like a fair price? How big of a deal is it to fix it?

 

[TR6]

I'm pretty sure this is the one I'm looking at:
http://www.panzittaent.com/PDFs/WHEELTRONIC/LOWRISE/6K_MIDRISE.pdf

 

[larry_g]

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_hydraulics+cylinders+2500-psi-welded-tee-cylinders

You should be able to replace the cylinder at worst case in the $250 range or less. If it is rebuildable a kit should be less. Above link is for reference only.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[787B]

TR6, I just bought one of these myself for $1000. Mine doesn't leak, but there is paperwork that came with it that indicated a main seal replacement several years ago. It was professionally rebuilt and I think the total tally was a couple hundred bucks. I can look it up for you this evening when I get home.

Wheeltronics and Snap On seem to be still supporting these lifts. There was a quote for a new cylinder too for nearly $600! No doubt that's why they went for the rebuild...

 

[Danglerb]

Its a good but old lift. Many are on the market due to the general down turn in the economy, and shops upgrading to something with more than 6k lift. Plenty of sellers can't get past the SnapOn name and original $4k price, but they only had 1 year or something warranty and SnapOn parts are not cheap, maybe better to get parts directly from Wheeltronics the maker.

OTOH I paid $800 for a newer dual cylinder Chinese import that was still on the shipping pallet and never had oil put in it yet.

Midrise lifts are great for suspension, brake, and wheel work, but **** for access to the middle of the bottom of the car. Fully lowered height is an issue for some, and may require building some 2x8 ramps for clearance.

Midrise is kind of a specialty lift, phasing out in shops, but popular in home garages due to size and portability. High quality used two post lifts are frequently MUCH cheaper used and in better condition, but need a higher ceiling and bolts into the slab. If I had the space I would go two post, but I don't.

 

[comedyman809]

all my machinery at my plant that i work in that have hydraulic pistons, are rebuildable, so there is no doubt that this one could be rebuilt.

the oil seal is leaking, and cylinder needs to be opened up and completely rebuilt. should be pretty easy, im assuming your mechanically inclined????

just buy the oil ring kit and ill bet you it is easy, i have giany pistons that are taller than me, and they get rebuilt all the time.

sounds like a task that may take a few hours if that.

 

[Danglerb]

If you decide to buy it, make SURE it has ALL of the parts, lift arms, risers, etc etc. Some shops don't use the arms and all the related parts get lost, and can be pricey to replace and are essential for any normal use.

 

[Hiball]

Its not a big deal to get inside of it, Take the cylinder out of the frame, Pop the C-clip and your there. I can check on what a full rebuild kit would cost if you like. Just going off past experiences im guessing it could be bought for less than 100 bucks easy.

 

[787B]

OTOH I paid $800 for a newer dual cylinder Chinese import that was still on the shipping pallet and never had oil put in it yet.

That's a steal (steel? ). I watched craigslist and feeBay for months. The scissor lifts in this area all go for over $1000 regardless of origin or age. They don't last more than a couple days before being sold - especially the Snap Ons. The guy was asking $1300 for mine because it has the truck extenders and fresh short hose on the cylinder.

Midrise is kind of a specialty lift, phasing out in shops, but popular in home garages due to size and portability. High quality used two post lifts are frequently MUCH cheaper used and in better condition, but need a higher ceiling and bolts into the slab. If I had the space I would go two post, but I don't.

And if you don't own your house, you can't be poking holes in the cement or pouring new cement if what you have is of dubious quality. That's my situation. I barely have 8 ft of overhead clearance, even less in the center of the garage. I was able to unload the Snap On from my truck and position it all by myself. I will have to build ramps to clear the cylinder (low-slung sports cars). If I ever own a house it's going to be Mohawk if I have the height, Maxjax if I don't!

 

[TR6]

Hiball, I guess the kit I need is the Gland Seal Kit (#0-0183) based on the manual I found online. If you can check on that for me, I'd appreciate it. I'm a little nervous about repairing my own lift hydraulics knowing that I'll be crawling underneath with a car on top, but I do my own brakes, etc for the race track so I guess it is no worse threat to my life and limb!

787B, I'd appreciate it if you can share what the cylinder repair on yours costs when you find the receipt.

Midrise lift like this one is the only option for me due to 8' ceiling height and low budget. Otherwise, I'd much rather have a two post lift. I realize that I'll be limited to not being able to do clutches, transmission drops, etc. But I think I'll be able to do at least 90% of what I need to do to the car with this lift.

Thanks everyone for the great input!

 

[Hiball]

Hiball, I guess the kit I need is the Gland Seal Kit (#0-0183) based on the manual I found online. If you can check on that for me, I'd appreciate it. I'm a little nervous about repairing my own lift hydraulics knowing that I'll be crawling underneath with a car on top, but I do my own brakes, etc for the race track so I guess it is no worse threat to my life and limb!

787B, I'd appreciate it if you can share what the cylinder repair on yours costs when you find the receipt.

Midrise lift like this one is the only option for me due to 8' ceiling height and low budget. Otherwise, I'd much rather have a two post lift. I realize that I'll be limited to not being able to do clutches, transmission drops, etc. But I think I'll be able to do at least 90% of what I need to do to the car with this lift.

Thanks everyone for the great input!

I didnt hear back from my supplier today, Ill try Monday. I would venture to guess you need both the Piston Seal kit and Gland kit. More than likely the Piston Seal Kit is the culprit but while your in there you should just change out both. You might check with the the company where you got the breakdown, They probably sell the kit also. We'll compare prices the first of the week and see if i can find you a better deal. I promise you that there is nothing to ReSealing a 1 way cylinder and ill talk you thru it. After your done, You'll be amazed at how easy it was.

Steven

 

[TR6]

Thanks Hiball! I appreciate it. I just got back from picking up the lift. Got it for $750 so I've got a little wiggle room to take care of repairs. It's filthy from being in a tire shop so it doesn't look like much right now. I plan to clean it up a bit. It is still strapped to my car trailer. Thank goodness for the winch on my trailer, that thing is heavy. I'll bribe some buddies with lots of beer tomorrow to help unload it.

 

[787B]

That's a great deal, TR6! Mine is kind of filthy too, but who cares, it will clean up! BTW, you can unhook that quick disconnect on the hydraulic line without any problem to make unloading a little easier. It will get a tiny bit of air in it when you reconnect, but the system is self-bleeding. I unloaded mine by myself with just a shop crane (Torin Big Red).

Question for the hydraulic experts that may help you too: Does the hydraulic fuse at the base of the cylinder need to be replaced periodically? Mine was replaced and it cost about $120. The part number in the manual I was supplied with and found on the web is 11726, but there is a note and receipt in my papers saying it was the wrong, the correct part is 11058. Coincidentally I think replacing the hydraulic fluid might not be a bad idea.

My cylinder was rebuilt in 2003 by Clark Industrial Supply in Pottstown, PA for $20 in parts ("high pressure seal") and $110 in labor. They said "Bore is rusted and will not seal 100%, but will and function and will be resealable again and again". Um, OK, I guess that's good and bad news... There are no signs of leakage on the cylinder, and it's obvious the guy didn't clean it up before I came to look at it.

The pin at the bottom of the cylinder (10861) was also replaced, but no explanation, so you might look at yours just to be sure nothing is out of whack.

Your labels look like they are as beat-up and/or missing as mine are. I want to replace at least the operating labels. You don't say where you are, but if opportunity strikes we might save some cash by ordering combined sets from Wheeltronics (in Canada) and then trans-shipping here in the US.

Oh, and my serial number plate is missing.

 

[Hiball]

That's a great deal, TR6! Mine is kind of filthy too, but who cares, it will clean up! BTW, you can unhook that quick disconnect on the hydraulic line without any problem to make unloading a little easier. It will get a tiny bit of air in it when you reconnect, but the system is self-bleeding. I unloaded mine by myself with just a shop crane (Torin Big Red).

Question for the hydraulic experts that may help you too: Does the hydraulic fuse at the base of the cylinder need to be replaced periodically? Mine was replaced and it cost about $120. The part number in the manual I was supplied with and found on the web is 11726, but there is a note and receipt in my papers saying it was the wrong, the correct part is 11058. Coincidentally I think replacing the hydraulic fluid might not be a bad idea.

My cylinder was rebuilt in 2003 by Clark Industrial Supply in Pottstown, PA for $20 in parts ("high pressure seal") and $110 in labor. They said "Bore is rusted and will not seal 100%, but will and function and will be resealable again and again". Um, OK, I guess that's good and bad news... There are no signs of leakage on the cylinder, and it's obvious the guy didn't clean it up before I came to look at it.

The pin at the bottom of the cylinder (10861) was also replaced, but no explanation, so you might look at yours just to be sure nothing is out of whack.

Your labels look like they are as beat-up and/or missing as mine are. I want to replace at least the operating labels. You don't say where you are, but if opportunity strikes we might save some cash by ordering combined sets from Wheeltronics (in Canada) and then trans-shipping here in the US.

Oh, and my serial number plate is missing.

The Only reason the Base would have to be replaced would be if it was damaged or the welds broke, Essentially its just a Cap with Pivot End on it. I fid it hard to believe it only took $20 bucks in parts to replace the Piston seal (High Pressure) and the Gland Seals (essentially a wiper). When you say "Bore" are you actually referencing the inside Sealing walls of the cylinder? That is the correct term and its possible for the Inside to rust/pit some, Especially if its been subject to long periods of No usage, But generally it doesnt take much of a Oil film to prevent. If there was any Rusting or Pitting of the Interior walls it will reduce Seal life Considerably, Account any sharp edges will eat away at the seal as it passes over and also it will allow Tiny amounts of il to pass by, Most of the time its unnoticable but Can happen. I have a question, Do these lifts operate under Cylinder Lift only? Or do they have Safety Catches/Dogs?

 

[Boiler]

Is there a vent on the rod side of the ram at the top? Maybe its just full and seeping out the vent. There is going to be some leakage past the ram seals. A return line to tank from the vent port or a catch of some kind might catch the seepage.

Is there a noticable retraction of the cylinder while at rest?

 

[Hiball]

Is there a vent on the rod side of the ram at the top? Maybe its just full and seeping out the vent. There is going to be some leakage past the ram seals. A return line to tank from the vent port or a catch of some kind might catch the seepage.

Is there a noticable retraction of the cylinder while at rest?

With Todays Piston seals, assuming its got a clean Interior to seal against you should have Very.. Very... little Seapage if Any, Also there is a Rod Seal, Gland Seal and Wiper at the Top End.. If this cylinder was in my shop, I wouldnt let it leave with any type of Seapage, without doing some further investigating. I cant say that ive ever seen a Vent on the Top end of a 1 way cylinder. Is this a common thing in your Area? Ive worked on Countless Farm Implement Cylinders and dont recall ever seeing a Vent. I will say that the Older Cylinders that used Vee's did leave a light film, But Technology is gotten much better over the years. It used to be that you would tend to get most of your leakage during the startup portion and since the inception of Loaded Seals its they have become fairly squeaky Clean. Just Curious? Always learning in the business.

 

[Stephenw]

I have the same lift. Mine was a demo I bought through a Snap-on rep. I was told that it was the very first production model and that it had toured around the country for trade shows.

I was just looking for the manual (which I still have somewhere), but could not find it.

Mine does not leak at all. The lift is self bleeding, just run it up and down a couple times, no load.

There is also a safety catch at full up. If I need to go under it without the safety locked, I throw some jack stands under it.

 

[wreckercologist]

Sounds like an easy rebuild if the chrome and piston are ok.

 

[787B]

The Only reason the Base would have to be replaced would be if it was damaged or the welds broke, Essentially its just a Cap with Pivot End on it.

The base is fine, it's the velocity fuse that was replaced. It's a safety device that will close and hold if the system loses pressure catastrophically. Cut the hose with an axe (and mechanical safety disengaged), the lift will fall an inch or two, the sudden high velocity of the hydraulic fluid will make the velocity fuse trip and hold the lift up. I doubt that it needs to be replaced often, if ever, but I thought it worth asking. I think mine we replaced because the flare fitting that goes to the hose was damaged. (Found the old one in the bag of junk the PO gave me.)

I fid it hard to believe it only took $20 bucks in parts to replace the Piston seal (High Pressure) and the Gland Seals (essentially a wiper). When you say "Bore" are you actually referencing the inside Sealing walls of the cylinder?

That's what the receipt says. Plus $110 in labor to hone and rebuild. They did not replace the gland seals that I can see.

I have a question, Do these lifts operate under Cylinder Lift only? Or do they have Safety Catches/Dogs?

Yes. You can see it next to the cylinder in TR6's photo. I wouldn't operate a hydraulic lift without a mechanical safety.

 

[Hiball]

The base is fine, it's the velocity fuse that was replaced. It's a safety device that will close and hold if the system loses pressure catastrophically. Cut the hose with an axe (and mechanical safety disengaged), the lift will fall an inch or two, the sudden high velocity of the hydraulic fluid will make the velocity fuse trip and hold the lift up. I doubt that it needs to be replaced often, if ever, but I thought it worth asking. I think mine we replaced because the flare fitting that goes to the hose was damaged. (Found the old one in the bag of junk the PO gave me.)

Yeah.. I got you now.. Im not real familiar with them but i've ordered them for customers before. I Dont deal with Lifts very often, Ill occasionally order parts for Garages around here but do to Liability Reasons I stay away.

 

[787B]

Installed a 220 volt outlet yesterday and took some time to play with my lift today. It's filthy and well-used. I took video of the safety mechanism in action for an old thread. My cylinder spurts fluid when fully extended. Presumably what's getting past the high pressure seal gets squished out either the shaft seal or vent hole (is there one?) by the piston. Left a nice puddle when I jacked it up to put some Harbor Fright 1000 lb furniture dollies under it to stow it (works much better than using the cart!).

I do not like the way the cylinder shifts sideways when lowered onto the safety. I think the upper pin and/or bearings need to be replaced. There is significant play in the safety lock arm bearing. Anybody with one of these have much play in that arm? Just grab it when the lift is down and rotate it up and check for play.

 

[TR6]

My cylinder spurts fluid when fully extended.

So many places to go with this one... But seriously, my Snap-On lift does exactly the same thing. It didn't do it with my spec miata race car, but yesterday I lifted my 911 all the way to the top and it literally squirted hydraulic fluid when it reached the top of its travel. That is definitely not good. So I assume I need to rebuild/reseal the cylinder?

BTW, I watched my safety lock mechanism and it performs exactly like yours. But the way that cam rotates when it "locks" at the top, I don't see how it is actually locked. If the lift failed and started to drop, would that lock bar stay in its slot or would the cam allow it to drop? I called Wheeltronic tech support and finally got a guy on the phone that knew these lifts and he said the cam is designed so that you don't need to reach under to unlock the safety when you want to lower the car. But he said it would hold if there was a sudden drop. All the same, when I was doing a bunch of work on my race car on Sunday, I lowered the lift to where I could put my four tall AC jack stands under the car also. I just wanted that extra confidence. What I didn't think about til afterward was that I had the four jackstands under the car, but not under the lift frame. So if the lift dropped due to some failure, I would have still had the heavy lift on top of me. Next time, I'll put the jackstands under the lift frame.

Hiball, were you able to check on pricing/availability of the parts needed to reseal these things? -thanks!

 

[787B]

My cylinder spurts fluid when fully extended.

So many places to go with this one...

But seriously, my Snap-On lift does exactly the same thing. It didn't do it with my spec miata race car, but yesterday I lifted my 911 all the way to the top and it literally squirted hydraulic fluid when it reached the top of its travel. That is definitely not good. So I assume I need to rebuild/reseal the cylinder?

If it works, doesn't creep down due to fluid loss, and isn't losing buckets of fluid, I don't think it needs a rebuild. Though it surely wouldn't hurt. What squirts out is what gets by the high pressure seal when it's working. If you didn't take the Miata all the way to the top, you wouldn't squeeze that fluid out.

Does your cylinder move sideways when on the safety? Does your safety arm have lots of play in the upper bearing?

BTW, I watched my safety lock mechanism and it performs exactly like yours. But the way that cam rotates when it "locks" at the top, I don't see how it is actually locked. If the lift failed and started to drop, would that lock bar stay in its slot or would the cam allow it to drop?

The cam only releases the safety. The safety is the bar behind the cam. That drops behind the metal slab welded into the angle iron that's welded to the cylinder. When that drops into place, and then you lower the lift until it stops on that lock, then it's "safe". The cam doesn't come into play until you raise it far enough for the cam to fall behind the metal slab.

By the same token, if the lift is high enough that the cam is in-play, then the safety will not engage if there is a sudden loss of hydraulic pressure.

However, that's why the hydraulic fuse is there. The sudden drop would trip the fuse and stop the fall. So the lift has two redundant collapse prevention systems. One you should always use (the safety lock), and one you hopefully never have to use (the hydraulic fuse).

What I didn't think about til afterward was that I had the four jackstands under the car, but not under the lift frame. So if the lift dropped due to some failure, I would have still had the heavy lift on top of me. Next time, I'll put the jackstands under the lift frame.

Right, you want the jackstands under the lift, not the car. Then it would be triply redundant - safety lock, hydraulic fuse, jack stands. All three would have to fail to squash you.

 

[TR6]

BTW, here's a photo of my spec miata on the lift. Note the jack stands...

 

[Hiball]

Hiball, were you able to check on pricing/availability of the parts needed to reseal these things? -thanks!

I phoned Him Monday, I double checked with him today, He is still checking on availability and Price. I gave him the Wheeltronic part number for cross reference but he wants to make sure he is pricing the correct model based off the Snap on Model.

If it works, doesn't creep down due to fluid loss, and isn't losing buckets of fluid, I don't think it needs a rebuild. Though it surely wouldn't hurt. What squirts out is what gets by the high pressure seal when it's working. If you didn't take the Miata all the way to the top, you wouldn't squeeze that fluid out.

Does your cylinder move sideways when on the safety? Does your safety arm have lots of play in the upper bearing?

IF you are getting oil past the High pressure seal its time for a REBUILD.... Eventually you will collect enough oil above the Piston seal that it will squirt out without full extension. It looks like the OP definitely has safety in mind with the Jack stands, Which is Great... With that said dont rely on the Hydraulic fuse as a Catch-all for safety. Its not worth your Life or anyone around it....

 

[787B]

BTW, here's a photo of my spec miata on the lift. Note the jack stands...

Nice! Up here Spec Piñatas don't look so nice after a couple of races. We have two whole race groups filled with SM and SSM (Shoulda-been Spec Miata) cars and the SMs especially tend to have a lot of "incidental" contact....

Now I'll have to take a picture of my Spec RX-7 up on my lift. Zoom Zoom!

Whose jack stands are those? They look like quality pieces with lots of height.

 

[787B]

IF you are getting oil past the High pressure seal its time for a REBUILD.... Eventually you will collect enough oil above the Piston seal that it will squirt out without full extension.

Point taken. And so you may get two orders when the pricing comes in.

It looks like the OP definitely has safety in mind with the Jack stands, Which is Great... With that said dont rely on the Hydraulic fuse as a Catch-all for safety. Its not worth your Life or anyone around it....

The safety lock is the primary safety. The fuse is actually a tertiary safety, now that I think about it, after the safety lock and the hydraulic system. For the fuse to come into play, both the safety lock and hydraulic hose or valve body would have to fail first. So, no, I won't be relying on the fuse. If I'm getting under the car I'll certainly put jack stands at the corners of the lift as quaternary safeties. Easy and fast and I don't want to get squished.

 

[TR6]

Nice! Up here Spec Piñatas don't look so nice after a couple of races. We have two whole race groups filled with SM and SSM (Shoulda-been Spec Miata) cars and the SMs especially tend to have a lot of "incidental" contact....

Now I'll have to take a picture of my Spec RX-7 up on my lift. Zoom Zoom!

Whose jack stands are those? They look like quality pieces with lots of height.

They are ESCO jackstands. Not cheap but I've never regretted the investment in them. http://www.asedeals.com/flat-top-jack-stands.html

I've just started racing SM this year. In fact my second ever race weekend is coming up this weekend. I've watched all of the SM carnage too, so we'll see how it goes. At my very first race, there was a big pile up in the first turn on the start. But I had hung back intentionally when I started seeing the dust flying, so I didn't get tangled up in it. The car is a blast to drive on the track. I've had so much more fun in it on the race track than I ever did in my 911. I'd like to see your Spec RX7. We usually run in the same race group with RX7's.

 

[787B]

And we have liftoff!

Hiball, the thing does squirt quite a bit of fluid past the piston when raising a heavy load, so a rebuild is in order. Any word on those kits?

Also, I understand that Dexron III is often used as it is hydraulic fluid, basically. I have a case of the stuff I'd like to use up. Can it be used in this lift?

 

[Hiball]

And we have liftoff!

Hiball, the thing does squirt quite a bit of fluid past the piston when raising a heavy load, so a rebuild is in order. Any word on those kits?

Also, I understand that Dexron III is often used as it is hydraulic fluid, basically. I have a case of the stuff I'd like to use up. Can it be used in this lift?

Well, Dexron III is very close to Hydraulic jack oil as far as Weight etc... There are some Wear additives, Anti Foaming additives in Jack Oil, My Grandfather used to use it all the time for many years without issue and really only noticed a problem in the Winter time as it didnt want to flow in a unheated shop. I soley use only Hydraulic jack Fluid now, Good or bad its what i decided to do. My main supplier is having issues with trying to track down a kit, I called Pantize?? (The Owner of the breakdown sheet the Op posted in the thread earlier) He told me that the Piston Kit Price was $124.78 and the Gland kit was $62.17. I honestly think they are smoking Crack, as i know those Seals are NOT that expensive. I tell you a issue i run into quite often is that when someone calls a Repair shop requesting the kits, so they can do the work thereself they Jack the prices up. Hopefully i will hear something soon but without a Snappy Model number its slow going.

 

[WBrowniv]

I have one of these lifts. Mine is the 110v version and I believe it is number EELR300A. Take a look at this site:

http://www.snaponequipment.com/ProductInfo/models.asp?category=lr&brand=Snap-on&model=EELR300A

Look down the page and there is a link to a manual with part numbers. The lift is manufactured by Wheeltronics in Canada. They were a separate company in the beginning but I do believe Snap-On purchaced them. The only repair part I have purchaced is a new quick coupler for the pump cart to lift. Around a hundred bucks and had to come from Canada and go through customs. My garage is a low ceiling and this thing works great. I have my 92 Achieva SCX on it as we speak. Very handy and one of the best purchaces I have made.

Hope that helps,
Bill Brown

 

[Hiball]

I have one of these lifts. Mine is the 110v version and I believe it is number EELR300A. Take a look at this site:

http://www.snaponequipment.com/ProductInfo/models.asp?category=lr&brand=Snap-on&model=EELR300A

Look down the page and there is a link to a manual with part numbers. The lift is manufactured by Wheeltronics in Canada. They were a separate company in the beginning but I do believe Snap-On purchaced them. The only repair part I have purchaced is a new quick coupler for the pump cart to lift. Around a hundred bucks and had to come from Canada and go through customs. My garage is a low ceiling and this thing works great. I have my 92 Achieva SCX on it as we speak. Very handy and one of the best purchaces I have made.

Hope that helps,
Bill Brown

Based on the OP's findings, I believe its a MODEL 6000A / 6000E. Im assuming theres is 220V. When i talked to Pantiza supply they asked me if it had 1 cylinder or 2 and if it was open on the lift platform or Solid. I quickly looked back into the thread and it appeared to be the open style and only had 1 cylinder. The part number they we needed was 00181 and 00183, That is the Piston seal kit and the Gland.

 

[787B]

Based on the OP's findings, I believe its a MODEL 6000A / 6000E. Im assuming theres is 220V.
[...]
The part number they we needed was 00181 and 00183, That is the Piston seal kit and the Gland.

The Wheeltronics 6000E manual from Panzitta and the Snap On EELR300A manual from the link both have the same part numbers on their parts lists. Both agree that 0-0181 is the piston seal kit and 0-0183 is the gland seal kit.

For the record, I think mine is 220 V because somebody switched it as some point. The lifts come configured for 115 Volts but can be reconfigured for 220. I may switch mine back to 115 as I only have a couple of 220 outlets.

 

[big.jim]

i just bought a used lift with a leaking seal and have resealed the ram for £4.50 and my seal guy says those are expensive seals and all is fine now but i have flushed and refilled with fresh oil while i was at it