Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT Woody's Works Garage
- Thread starter Denwood
- Start date
Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.
I shot a lot of video over the past few weeks 
Here's a blurb on replacing ABS wheel sensors. I toasted both sides on the front removing them as both were seized. Not sure how a plastic part seizes in a metal part, but they sure as heck were stuck.
Good new is that the $30 amazon parts worked perfectly, were an exact match on the harnesses and grommets, and cost a heck of a lot less than the $400 CAD dealer part.
Here's a blurb on replacing ABS wheel sensors. I toasted both sides on the front removing them as both were seized. Not sure how a plastic part seizes in a metal part, but they sure as heck were stuck.Good new is that the $30 amazon parts worked perfectly, were an exact match on the harnesses and grommets, and cost a heck of a lot less than the $400 CAD dealer part.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
nicely done as per usual and i'm sure if anyone wants to try to do this themselves too that your videos will help them a ton. I can't tell you how many times I've scratched my head wondering how to do something or double checking to see if what I knew was correct and Youtube vids can be an awesome source for all of us. I bet you have found some to help you in your past and probably in your future too. have a great weekend!!
I hear you on the rinse and repeat as we here in the PNW enter into our Drizzle Season (November to May give or take a few weeks) where I pretty much shut down my outside projects. the nice thing is neither of us worry about Hurricanes, tornados or other bad weather that other parts of the world do so I'll take my rinse and repeat too. heck when we do leave for a little vacation we usually go to the Oregon Coast and sit in a condo on the beach and watch the storms create big waves on the Pacific Ocean instead of running to get some sunshine.
cheers
I hear you on the rinse and repeat as we here in the PNW enter into our Drizzle Season (November to May give or take a few weeks) where I pretty much shut down my outside projects. the nice thing is neither of us worry about Hurricanes, tornados or other bad weather that other parts of the world do so I'll take my rinse and repeat too. heck when we do leave for a little vacation we usually go to the Oregon Coast and sit in a condo on the beach and watch the storms create big waves on the Pacific Ocean instead of running to get some sunshine.
cheers
You keyed in on my main motivation for doing the vids, other than it’s fun to do
You do have to sift through a few vids at times, but there is a ton of good material out there covering just about any topic. After messing with cars some 40 years I figure I may be able to offer up a few tidbits too drivesitfar
Well-known member
Woody: great vids as per usual and thanks for posting them here and on Youtube. I know some of the junk on youtube gets millions and sometimes billions of hits like kids songs (baby shark comes to mind), but the person looking at your video and using your experience and methods will really benefit and maybe even send you a thank you.
any inside the house remodeling coming up this winter or are you about done spiffing up your cool old home?
keep up the great work!!
any inside the house remodeling coming up this winter or are you about done spiffing up your cool old home?
keep up the great work!!
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Drives, anytime I find a gap for information on the interwebs, I am motivated to fill it At the current rate of pay ($0), it also has to a bit of fun to shoot and edit.
Inside, the boss is looking for me to build out our fireplace room as a full on library. I see work in the near future…
At the current rate of pay ($0), it also has to a bit of fun to shoot and edit.Inside, the boss is looking for me to build out our fireplace room as a full on library. I see work in the near future…
I've never really worn a watch, nor do particularly want to. I am not impressed by expensive watches, I just think they are stupid.
However, with the combination of my age, and the increasingly intense MTB rides, I really wanted to at least track my heart rate. I also wanted to take a look at sleep analysis as well. That led to a test run or two with an older (gifted for free) Apple watch. The fact that the older Apple watches don't have an onboard GPS, and battery life is maybe a day if you're tracking an activity (even on the new ones) left me underwhelmed. Oh, and they're quite expensive.
I have always used fairly simple (read low tech) wireless bike computers that pretty much give you basic stats like elapsed time and average speed. I don't ride with a phone, and I don't want to start riding with a phone. What I was looking for was a device that had accurate GPS, and could track a ride, heartrate etc. with data that could be analyzed after if desired. I started looking and ended up finding the Garmin Fenix 7 Sapphire Solar (jeez already) which are being cleared out I suspect due to the new models out there. After using the Garmin for a week, I've added a Polar H10 heart rate monitor (mostly for winter use where the watch will not be in contact with my skin), and am looking at adding power meter to add to the bike as well. The power meter on the bike allows the watch to do fancy stuff like VO2 max calculations.
For sailing on the catamaran and windsurfing, tracking speed is something I've always wanted to do...so no problem there. Just a small issue with temps dipping below freezing at night for now so sailing will have to wait.
There are 1000s of Youtube videos etc. out there on the topic, but most favor the Garmin watches or bike computers for performance tracking. The learning curve on the Garmin is not for the faint of heart, and you will spend a few hours at first configuring the data screens, sorting the five button functions and just figuring stuff out. There is a crazy amount of data you can access and configure for display, so the trick really is whittling it down to your own needs. On sleep, the Garmin seems to be doing a good job of figuring out REM sleep cycles etc. based on heart rate (mine drops to 45bpm!), respiration rate, and movement. You can also have it monitor your blood ox levels in case sleep apnea etc. is a concern.
The only thing I liked really about the Apple watch was the magnetic charging. This is a good thing as you have to do it daily! On the Garmin, charging is goofy, however with the solar etc. I will only need to do it every 20 days or so. GPS on the Fenix 7 with multiband yada yada is very precise, and the GPS fix happens almost right away once you're outside. There are tons of mapping options with waypoints, proximity alerts, routing etc. but I'm not so interested in all that. No one really explained in reviews that outside, you don't need a backlight to view the Garmin MIPS screen...it's very bright and readable just illuminated by sunlight...in fact, it's best in sunlight.
After an activity (you start and stop tracking on the Garmin with a simple button push) the data is saved and you can view it after from the app, or via the web on a PC etc. There is a lot of data there if you're into that. I'm more interested in progress through the year with respect to performance metrics, so adding a power meter (will communicate how many watts you're generating) on the bike will add a lot more to this mix as the watch can calculate your weight, power output (watts from the power meter), terrain (from the GPS), speed(GPS) heart rate and respiration rate to provide a fairly accurate VO2 max value.
However, with the combination of my age, and the increasingly intense MTB rides, I really wanted to at least track my heart rate. I also wanted to take a look at sleep analysis as well. That led to a test run or two with an older (gifted for free) Apple watch. The fact that the older Apple watches don't have an onboard GPS, and battery life is maybe a day if you're tracking an activity (even on the new ones) left me underwhelmed. Oh, and they're quite expensive.
I have always used fairly simple (read low tech) wireless bike computers that pretty much give you basic stats like elapsed time and average speed. I don't ride with a phone, and I don't want to start riding with a phone. What I was looking for was a device that had accurate GPS, and could track a ride, heartrate etc. with data that could be analyzed after if desired. I started looking and ended up finding the Garmin Fenix 7 Sapphire Solar (jeez already) which are being cleared out I suspect due to the new models out there. After using the Garmin for a week, I've added a Polar H10 heart rate monitor (mostly for winter use where the watch will not be in contact with my skin), and am looking at adding power meter to add to the bike as well. The power meter on the bike allows the watch to do fancy stuff like VO2 max calculations.
For sailing on the catamaran and windsurfing, tracking speed is something I've always wanted to do...so no problem there. Just a small issue with temps dipping below freezing at night for now so sailing will have to wait.
There are 1000s of Youtube videos etc. out there on the topic, but most favor the Garmin watches or bike computers for performance tracking. The learning curve on the Garmin is not for the faint of heart, and you will spend a few hours at first configuring the data screens, sorting the five button functions and just figuring stuff out. There is a crazy amount of data you can access and configure for display, so the trick really is whittling it down to your own needs. On sleep, the Garmin seems to be doing a good job of figuring out REM sleep cycles etc. based on heart rate (mine drops to 45bpm!), respiration rate, and movement. You can also have it monitor your blood ox levels in case sleep apnea etc. is a concern.
The only thing I liked really about the Apple watch was the magnetic charging. This is a good thing as you have to do it daily! On the Garmin, charging is goofy, however with the solar etc. I will only need to do it every 20 days or so. GPS on the Fenix 7 with multiband yada yada is very precise, and the GPS fix happens almost right away once you're outside. There are tons of mapping options with waypoints, proximity alerts, routing etc. but I'm not so interested in all that. No one really explained in reviews that outside, you don't need a backlight to view the Garmin MIPS screen...it's very bright and readable just illuminated by sunlight...in fact, it's best in sunlight.
After an activity (you start and stop tracking on the Garmin with a simple button push) the data is saved and you can view it after from the app, or via the web on a PC etc. There is a lot of data there if you're into that. I'm more interested in progress through the year with respect to performance metrics, so adding a power meter (will communicate how many watts you're generating) on the bike will add a lot more to this mix as the watch can calculate your weight, power output (watts from the power meter), terrain (from the GPS), speed(GPS) heart rate and respiration rate to provide a fairly accurate VO2 max value.
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ericm
Well-known member
After you have used a power meter for a while you'll find out that heart rate is less useful than people think.
In the '80s/90s when I trained with HR (no power meters back then) I had the wrong attitude and I let the metrics make riding less fun. When I came back in the 2000s I realized that the problem had been me and not the tools. I was able to train with HR and power data and not let the numbers kill the fun.
However going back to using nothing has been liberating. It's one less thing to think about when I'm riding.
In the '80s/90s when I trained with HR (no power meters back then) I had the wrong attitude and I let the metrics make riding less fun. When I came back in the 2000s I realized that the problem had been me and not the tools. I was able to train with HR and power data and not let the numbers kill the fun.
However going back to using nothing has been liberating. It's one less thing to think about when I'm riding.
Thanks for chiming in. I figure the power meter will be pretty interesting. On the riding with data topic, I find my rides alone are the ones I push on as I’m not waiting for anyone. These are the ones that test my fitness level, and would show a progression…and rides I’d like data on.
On a ride with my wife, or buds, those are just for fun. I’m pretty mindful to keep pace with those around me and not push…I don’t want to be “that” guy
I should have considered an ebike for the missus to even things up. When we’re with Cocoa the trail pup, we’re even more mindful of giving her plenty of drink/swim breaks. I guess you might call these social rides more about recovery vs the solo jaunts which are all about training.drivesitfar
Well-known member
Woody: thanks for the information on which watch you prefer and I’ll read your post more thoroughly when I sit down later. That said I also haven’t wore a watch since maybe 1983 when my somewhat expensive seiko one needed an expensive repair. Pager on my hip took over then the portable cell phone. I’m not sure you’re old enough but no clocks on original cell phones and volume button was a $400 upgrade for one of first handhold cell phones and yep $1 a minute when minimum wage was about $3 in mid 80’s.
I have had a few issues with sort of heartburn let’s say maybe cause I still lift and work like I’m 30 but it would be nice to know if my heart is causing the issue instead of guessing if I should call 911.
Hope your enjoying the last bit of better weather in your part of the world.
I have had a few issues with sort of heartburn let’s say maybe cause I still lift and work like I’m 30 but it would be nice to know if my heart is causing the issue instead of guessing if I should call 911.
Hope your enjoying the last bit of better weather in your part of the world.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Dennis, when my resting pulse dropped to 37 I had a pacemaker installed. Now it never goes below 60.
I had a pager and one of the old school motorola phones at the get go...so I'm with you there..ha.
So way back in university I took an exercise physiology course as one of my Biology electives, so had the opportunity to test my own VO2 max, anaerobic threshold etc. using a treadmill, gas monitoring etc. to exhaustion. At the time, I tested in at 62 mL/(kg·min) which for a 22 year old is a decent value. Needless to say, I'm quite interested to see how that has played out after 35 years.
I have a power meter inbound for the bike so will be able to provide the data to the Garmin (heartrate, power etc.) which in turn can calculate VO2 to around +- 5% accuracy.
PhantomEB
Well-known member
Does that Garmin receive and send text?
I like my NjordGear watch but half the **** don’t work.
I like my NjordGear watch but half the **** don’t work.
Inbound texts and notifications come up, and you can answer a call, but no, on this model you cannot send. Definitely look at the Apple Watch if phone integration is a priority…it’s definitely better for that.
I leave my phone at home during any kind of workout (call it enforced disconnection!) so not an issue for me.
ericm
Well-known member
The most useful thing I found with a power meter was measuring my training stress level. After a few years I knew how much stress I could handle. When I was peaking for an A race I could ramp my stress up to the limit over a couple months and then have an easy week before the race to recuperate.
There are certain types of intervals where a power meter is useful as well. But I'm one of those people who can go harder in a race or competitive ride than I can by myself, so for the shorter more intense stuff it was more productive for me to do a lot of race oriented group rides than to try to do say 5 minute intervals. For longer intervals, 20 minutes or longer (always done on big climbs) then I could use the power meter to pace myself. But even there, I've been running and cycling for long enough that I can pace myself pretty well without a meter.
It's interesting to see how the HR ramps up over time when you're doing a constant power interval.
Measuring my threshold power was useful as an input to the stress calculation but not that interesting in itself... mostly because mine wasn't all that great. I never got over 4 w/kg and around here you need about 4.2 to win races. Measuring my sprint power was even less interesting as it's terrible.
There are certain types of intervals where a power meter is useful as well. But I'm one of those people who can go harder in a race or competitive ride than I can by myself, so for the shorter more intense stuff it was more productive for me to do a lot of race oriented group rides than to try to do say 5 minute intervals. For longer intervals, 20 minutes or longer (always done on big climbs) then I could use the power meter to pace myself. But even there, I've been running and cycling for long enough that I can pace myself pretty well without a meter.
It's interesting to see how the HR ramps up over time when you're doing a constant power interval.
Measuring my threshold power was useful as an input to the stress calculation but not that interesting in itself... mostly because mine wasn't all that great. I never got over 4 w/kg and around here you need about 4.2 to win races. Measuring my sprint power was even less interesting as it's terrible.
Hi Dennis, just quickly passing by to check latest developments... Nice work on the new EV, and I did like how you make your videos. You seem to manage the camera/phone well when moving around and showing parts, so no annoying lost of focus or showing somewhere else while there is movement.
Heh, also liked the fact that the pool system just worked when you put it on. It shows when you do things well, they just work.
Nice work on the new EV, and I did like how you make your videos. You seem to manage the camera/phone well when moving around and showing parts, so no annoying lost of focus or showing somewhere else while there is movement. Heh, also liked the fact that the pool system just worked when you put it on. It shows when you do things well, they just work.
Thanks Matias…but after reading your last post, my life here seems pretty boring, ha!Hi Dennis, just quickly passing by to check latest developments...
Heh, also liked the fact that the pool system just worked when you put it on. It shows when you do things well, they just work.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
so where's the old guy that we know as Woody in this video. looks like a helluva ride and amazing that your furry friend keeps up and knows when to move aside too.
hope you're enjoying your weekend!!
hope you're enjoying your weekend!!
I just show up in the end for a few seconds of Cocoa kisses Fall riding this year has been pretty awesome...just wished I had filmed this a few weeks back when there was a bit more color out there. The novelty of having all the ride data to look at after (at least when I'm pushing it on my own), has been a bit motivating. Once the power meter shows up, it should get even more interesting when there is an idea of how many watts it's taking to get my bulk over the hills...ha.
Fall riding this year has been pretty awesome...just wished I had filmed this a few weeks back when there was a bit more color out there. The novelty of having all the ride data to look at after (at least when I'm pushing it on my own), has been a bit motivating. Once the power meter shows up, it should get even more interesting when there is an idea of how many watts it's taking to get my bulk over the hills...ha.Some cool stuff to share. I've been interested in gathering some more data about health, training etc. so I can track progress. I may do a few races with the club next year if I manage to drop some more weight over winter. Regardless, between the Garmin watch (Fenix 7 Solar) and a few added sensors, it feels like I'm back in the Exercise Physiology lab (my favorite course) back in university days!
Garmin can calculate a few more metrics if you pair a few sensors for cycling. You need to add in a heart rate monitor (for accuracy) as well as a power meter. I added a Polar H10 heart rate monitor (you wear it around your chest while riding) as well as a 4iiii power meter. Both connect to the watch using a wireless protocol, ANT+, which is used by most of these devices for reliable low power communication.
For the power meter, I replaced my left crank arm with one modified by the 4iiii company. It takes your left leg power and doubles it to provide an overall power measurement. It's basically a strain gauge affixed to the crank arm with added electronics. Measure torque, and cadence (RPM) and the device can calculate your power output. It wakes up when you start moving the crank. One CR2032 cell lasts for about 800 hours of riding. It also integrates Apple's "Find My" so you can track a stolen bike. Cool beans.
The CR2302 battery hides behind the 4iiii cap. That rectangular bit is the actual power meter mounted to the inside of the crank arm.
Once you do the initial pairing of the devices, the watch automatically connects to the power meter and heart rate monitor as you start using them while tracking an activity. Each of these devices has a 5 digit ANT+ ID as you can see on the watch face. After the ride there is a lot more information to look at as well.
Garmin Connect via a web browser gives lots of data to look at. The really cool stuff though is VO2 max, FTP (basically anaerobic threshold for cyclists) and HRV (heart rate variability) which all give you a excellent insights to your fitness/health level. Garmin calculates all this stuff on the fly, but also has structured tests to get to these values. My FTP so far is about 300 watts, meaning I should be able to ride, outputting power at this level, without fatiguing.
Now if you really want to geek out (and I do!) you can shoot video with a GoPro, DJI Action etc. and sync GPS data from the Garmin watch to the video. How cool is that?
Garmin can calculate a few more metrics if you pair a few sensors for cycling. You need to add in a heart rate monitor (for accuracy) as well as a power meter. I added a Polar H10 heart rate monitor (you wear it around your chest while riding) as well as a 4iiii power meter. Both connect to the watch using a wireless protocol, ANT+, which is used by most of these devices for reliable low power communication.
For the power meter, I replaced my left crank arm with one modified by the 4iiii company. It takes your left leg power and doubles it to provide an overall power measurement. It's basically a strain gauge affixed to the crank arm with added electronics. Measure torque, and cadence (RPM) and the device can calculate your power output. It wakes up when you start moving the crank. One CR2032 cell lasts for about 800 hours of riding. It also integrates Apple's "Find My" so you can track a stolen bike. Cool beans.
The CR2302 battery hides behind the 4iiii cap. That rectangular bit is the actual power meter mounted to the inside of the crank arm.
Once you do the initial pairing of the devices, the watch automatically connects to the power meter and heart rate monitor as you start using them while tracking an activity. Each of these devices has a 5 digit ANT+ ID as you can see on the watch face. After the ride there is a lot more information to look at as well.
Garmin Connect via a web browser gives lots of data to look at. The really cool stuff though is VO2 max, FTP (basically anaerobic threshold for cyclists) and HRV (heart rate variability) which all give you a excellent insights to your fitness/health level. Garmin calculates all this stuff on the fly, but also has structured tests to get to these values. My FTP so far is about 300 watts, meaning I should be able to ride, outputting power at this level, without fatiguing.
Now if you really want to geek out (and I do!) you can shoot video with a GoPro, DJI Action etc. and sync GPS data from the Garmin watch to the video. How cool is that?
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nicholam77
Well-known member
The video data overlay is very cool! Pretty nice graphics, too!
Back down to earth apparently. Our main sewer line clogged up pretty much six years since my last clean out with a DIY water jetter setup, connected to a 4000 psi rented gas powered pressure washer. This time, I rented this 150 lb beast from HD which did the job. Nearly killed myself getting it down the basement stairs..but a house with three girls and blocked sewer is not a tenable situation…ha. Patience and a few runs out and back with various attachments did the trick.
The blockage was something like 80ft down the main line, almost at the street. I guess I’ll need to start saving up for a pipe reline or similar. Digging up the line runs something like $15K here, crazy. The roots eventually just come back through the joints of the old clay 6” pipe sections that run out to the street.
The blockage was something like 80ft down the main line, almost at the street. I guess I’ll need to start saving up for a pipe reline or similar. Digging up the line runs something like $15K here, crazy. The roots eventually just come back through the joints of the old clay 6” pipe sections that run out to the street.
bigsteve2011
Well-known member
Having had my main line hydro jetted when I sold the house due to a 90% blockage with tree roots I know the feeling. I know there is an option to have the clay drain sleeved with some sort of plastic or rubber but I think that was for cracked or misaligned drain not sure if it would work for the tree roots. Glad you got it all back up and flowing!Back down to earth apparently. Our main sewer line clogged up pretty much six years since my last clean out with a DIY water jetter setup, connected to a 4000 psi rented gas powered pressure washer. This time, I rented this 150 lb beast from HD which did the job. Nearly killed myself getting it down the basement stairs..but a house with three girls and blocked sewer is not a tenable situation…ha. Patience and a few runs out and back with various attachments did the trick.
The blockage was something like 80ft down the main line, almost at the street. I guess I’ll need to start saving up for a pipe reline or similar. Digging up the line runs something like $15K here, crazy. The roots eventually just come back through the joints of the old clay 6” pipe sections that run out to the street.
bigsteve2011
Well-known member
Yep, simplest and cheapest and if still a problem go up from there. Seems like it isn't a problem all the time so root x should help cut it down. 
nicholam77
Well-known member
Ouch.
Since I've lived in my house (8.5 yrs) I've witnessed at least 5x main line replacements in our neighborhood, maybe more, on our street or adjacent. Our neighbors two houses down paid $25k through a commercial outlet for a full line replacement, and these are not huge yards. I'll probably have to do something about ours, too, if we stay here long enough. Same problems, roots causing occasional backups.
Last year I talked with a smaller plumber outfit that does line clean outs but not the big repairs, and he gave me a list of recommended contractors and options. Depending on the condition of the overall pipe you could just replace a section, or do the sleeve. I think it's worth it to have someone knowledgeable take a look with a camera and clean it out really good. I've never heard of the water jet machine, I normally have it cleaned out once a year with the blade machines (like roto-rooter). We have a few different materials and diameters of pipe in our run to the street, and due to a bend near the house where it transitions, the blade tool was repeatedly missing a big section of roots. This guy used a special expanding aluminum chain to get that where the pipe changed diameters and took a bend. Watching him do it on the camera was eye-opening. I know you like your cameras, so that's my recommendation is to find someone who will show you for yourself the condition and not in the business of upselling a $30k line replacement.
But yeah... unless you have a big crack or constant overflows, a yearly (or more often if necessary) clean out would still be way cheaper than a big replacement. That's my approach, anyway, just stay on top of the roots.
Since I've lived in my house (8.5 yrs) I've witnessed at least 5x main line replacements in our neighborhood, maybe more, on our street or adjacent. Our neighbors two houses down paid $25k through a commercial outlet for a full line replacement, and these are not huge yards. I'll probably have to do something about ours, too, if we stay here long enough. Same problems, roots causing occasional backups.
Last year I talked with a smaller plumber outfit that does line clean outs but not the big repairs, and he gave me a list of recommended contractors and options. Depending on the condition of the overall pipe you could just replace a section, or do the sleeve. I think it's worth it to have someone knowledgeable take a look with a camera and clean it out really good. I've never heard of the water jet machine, I normally have it cleaned out once a year with the blade machines (like roto-rooter). We have a few different materials and diameters of pipe in our run to the street, and due to a bend near the house where it transitions, the blade tool was repeatedly missing a big section of roots. This guy used a special expanding aluminum chain to get that where the pipe changed diameters and took a bend. Watching him do it on the camera was eye-opening. I know you like your cameras, so that's my recommendation is to find someone who will show you for yourself the condition and not in the business of upselling a $30k line replacement.
But yeah... unless you have a big crack or constant overflows, a yearly (or more often if necessary) clean out would still be way cheaper than a big replacement. That's my approach, anyway, just stay on top of the roots.
Thanks for that input Nick
I've ordered up some RootX so we'll see how that does. You mix a two part powder then run it down the cleanout with about 10 gallons of water. It foams up and does its thing.On the water jetter, I made my own...and it worked quite well. This is what my line looked like, 44' down in 2018, after a local outfit did the best they could with mechanical cleaning:
I followed up with the water jetting after the mechanical clean. Below is the water jet head (Forney 75142) I had purchased. That brass bit spins like crazy under pressure and the three or four jets do the cutting. The jets are directed backwards so when affixed to the pressure hose, it literally drags itself down the line. I had to rent a 4000 psi, 4-5 gpm pressure washer for it to be effective. My electric pressure washer with that head would not cut anything at 1500 psi.
This is the after image (after DIY water jetting six years ago) taken with a really crappy inspection cam. I just picked up a new scope so we'll take a look before/after the rootX etc.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Woody: I was considering buying a video machine to inspect my parents sewer (100 year old cast iron) but decide to pay a pro $299 to do the job and he emailed me the results after talking me thru them while he was there. I passed on report to buyer and easy peasy but I’d still like to own one for our home and our kid’s old homes in case there are an issues.
What brand did you buy or if you mentioned it already I’ll read slower and see it there?
I’m getting ready for winter here so I know you’re probably about there so best of luck getting all your projects done before you go below freezing again.
What brand did you buy or if you mentioned it already I’ll read slower and see it there?
I’m getting ready for winter here so I know you’re probably about there so best of luck getting all your projects done before you go below freezing again.
The amazon camera worked fine...but in a sewer you ideally want to source a few plastic balls or similar to elevate the front camera. The two side cameras worked great and stayed clean as I kept water running in the drain. I also had to tape my wire fish to the cable and use that to push it down the drain.
Definitely a problem at around 44 feet. This is the pic from 6 years ago (expensive sewer cam).
I could not get past it with this rig. Under the tape is a plastic extension cord retainer to keep the camera elevated a bit.
The new "inexpensive" camera works fairly well. This is an image taken in the 4" ABS section of drain using the inspection cam's front camera. At about 40 feet down the front camera got some debris on it.
The side cameras were handy to switch to in this situation. This is an image from the side camera obviously at very close range to a root...
I think the manufacturer's suggestion of the two plastic balls would work better than my setup:
Definitely a problem at around 44 feet. This is the pic from 6 years ago (expensive sewer cam).
I could not get past it with this rig. Under the tape is a plastic extension cord retainer to keep the camera elevated a bit.
The new "inexpensive" camera works fairly well. This is an image taken in the 4" ABS section of drain using the inspection cam's front camera. At about 40 feet down the front camera got some debris on it.
The side cameras were handy to switch to in this situation. This is an image from the side camera obviously at very close range to a root...
I think the manufacturer's suggestion of the two plastic balls would work better than my setup:
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Bit of a long evening - Sewer blockage - RootX application Octover 29, 2024
1. Rented a 4000 psi gas pressure washer from HD, and jetted out the sewer line. Below are the last two instances, of about 8 pipe joints with roots, 42-45 feet down the line. This camera does not auto-rotate the images so your brain needs to rotate them so the roots are on the top of the pipe. This time I marked out the root locations on the sewer cam cable with tape, then transferred those tape marks over to the water jetter pressure hose. This way I could target the root areas to spend more time on. I removed the wand from the HD pressure washer and attached my 50 feet of pressure hose to that. This way I could control the flow from inside the house. After jetting I could actually get the camera all the way down the line. After mechanical root cleaning with the HD rental drain auger, there were still enough blockages in play to stop the camera from past all these root instances.
This time around, I used a plastic baseball (deformable) just behind the cutter tip to elevate it off the pipe floor.
Around 42 feet (after jetting!):
And a 2nd larger root mass at about 45 feet down the line:
2. RootX was a bit of disaster as the 4lb of mixed powder went down the clean out as per their instructions, but immediately foamed on contact with a bit of water and blocked the clean out. It was a bit of a mess. Next time I'll pour it into the basement toilet at the same time as two 5 gallon pails of water going in (followed by another 10 gallons) to get the 4 lbs of Rootx down into the drain.
Once again, this water jet tip along with 50 feet of pressure hose did the trick. It sounds like a little turbine engine spinning at crazy RPM with a 4000 PSI, 4GPM pressure washer behind it.
Not surprisingly, radon levels and VOC in the basement spiked way up after doing this work. Go figure. In any case, I'll scope again in a year before applying Rootx again to see how we're doing. This sewer line is an obvious candidate for relining or interior coating so I'll be getting a few quotes on that work too.
1. Rented a 4000 psi gas pressure washer from HD, and jetted out the sewer line. Below are the last two instances, of about 8 pipe joints with roots, 42-45 feet down the line. This camera does not auto-rotate the images so your brain needs to rotate them so the roots are on the top of the pipe. This time I marked out the root locations on the sewer cam cable with tape, then transferred those tape marks over to the water jetter pressure hose. This way I could target the root areas to spend more time on. I removed the wand from the HD pressure washer and attached my 50 feet of pressure hose to that. This way I could control the flow from inside the house. After jetting I could actually get the camera all the way down the line. After mechanical root cleaning with the HD rental drain auger, there were still enough blockages in play to stop the camera from past all these root instances.
This time around, I used a plastic baseball (deformable) just behind the cutter tip to elevate it off the pipe floor.
Around 42 feet (after jetting!):
And a 2nd larger root mass at about 45 feet down the line:
2. RootX was a bit of disaster as the 4lb of mixed powder went down the clean out as per their instructions, but immediately foamed on contact with a bit of water and blocked the clean out. It was a bit of a mess. Next time I'll pour it into the basement toilet at the same time as two 5 gallon pails of water going in (followed by another 10 gallons) to get the 4 lbs of Rootx down into the drain.
Once again, this water jet tip along with 50 feet of pressure hose did the trick. It sounds like a little turbine engine spinning at crazy RPM with a 4000 PSI, 4GPM pressure washer behind it.
Not surprisingly, radon levels and VOC in the basement spiked way up after doing this work. Go figure. In any case, I'll scope again in a year before applying Rootx again to see how we're doing. This sewer line is an obvious candidate for relining or interior coating so I'll be getting a few quotes on that work too.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Woody: what’s your YouTube channel name? I subscribed to one I think might be your older one that had best in your trailer as maybe last video.
Cool logo!!
Cool logo!!