Vintage Chainsaws

[Mike'smeatshop]

Went to the scrapyard today and I found several gems. A Mcculloch 1-51 and a small pioneer. The Mcculloch has a bowsaw bar, and it will go great at the shows with the 5-49 two man saw and others. If anyone needs parts for any saw, let me know.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

This saw 1-51 seems to small for a 24 inch bow bar. It is the same displacement as the 200,250. I will get it running and clean up the chain and try it out. I just love these old saws.

 

[Beerhippie]

Whoah! That Mac brings back some not necessarily good memories! We used those saws in the USFS back in the '70s and '80s. Back then, everything had to be purchased through the GSA catalog, which only listed tools and equipment made in USA--so saw choices were Mac and Homolite.

We used the bow bars for brush clearing and they're an equal mix of PITA and frightening.

PITA part is that the cut ends of brush always want to go right inside the open bow. The frightening part is that that thing is all tip--or all kick-back.

The holes in the bar are for mounting a spur that keeps the brush from just getting sucked back into the saw AND helps prevent kickback--a little. The spur is just that--maybe 6-8" long and pretty much parallel to the bottom of the bar. The other set of holes allows for flipping the bar.

The only tool I can recall disliking more than the bow bar was a Swedish Brush Axe. That's a D-frame like a bow saw, with a tensioned blade, mounted to the hatchet or axe handle by the back of the D--making it as unbalanced as possible. The handle was always trying to twist in hand, causing the damned thing to glance off in random directions.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Whoah! That Mac brings back some not necessarily good memories! We used those saws in the USFS back in the '70s and '80s. Back then, everything had to be purchased through the GSA catalog, which only listed tools and equipment made in USA--so saw choices were Mac and Homolite.

We used the bow bars for brush clearing and they're an equal mix of PITA and frightening.

PITA part is that the cut ends of brush always want to go right inside the open bow. The frightening part is that that thing is all tip--or all kick-back.

The holes in the bar are for mounting a spur that keeps the brush from just getting sucked back into the saw AND helps prevent kickback--a little. The spur is just that--maybe 6-8" long and pretty much parallel to the bottom of the bar. The other set of holes allows for flipping the bar.

The only tool I can recall disliking more than the bow bar was a Swedish Brush Axe. That's a D-frame like a bow saw, with a tensioned blade, mounted to the hatchet or axe handle by the back of the D--making it as unbalanced as possible. The handle was always trying to twist in hand, causing the damned thing to glance off in random directions.

I would think brush cutting would be a problem. I am wondering what the bow was developed for? And I have got to find a spur. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Provincial]

One of the better brush cutters I have used is a piece of crosscut saw blade about 24" long attached to a double-bit axe handle. It has a hook on the far end that extends about 4" in front of the main cutting edge, with about a 3" radius blending the two edges together. It is pretty light, works both by swinging and jerking back toward the operator, and is quite controllable.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

One of the better brush cutters I have used is a piece of crosscut saw blade about 24" long attached to a double-bit axe handle. It has a hook on the far end that extends about 4" in front of the main cutting edge, with about a 3" radius blending the two edges together. It is pretty light, works both by swinging and jerking back toward the operator, and is quite controllable.

I would like to see that. I just can't picture it swinging.

 

[Beerhippie]

One of the better brush cutters I have used is a piece of crosscut saw blade about 24" long attached to a double-bit axe handle. It has a hook on the far end that extends about 4" in front of the main cutting edge, with about a 3" radius blending the two edges together. It is pretty light, works both by swinging and jerking back toward the operator, and is quite controllable.

AKA brush hook or bill hook. Agreed, one of the best for manual brush clearing. Also a nasty weapon. True Temper made an excellent one.



Here's the Swede axe:



I once successfully threw and stuck one of those into a stump, with a five-man crew watching. Hint: If you try something stupid and it works the first time, just blow the dust off your hands and refuse to try again.

That one is an improved version with the handle attached closer to the center of moment. Our had the handle at the back of the D.

 

[Beerhippie]

I would think brush cutting would be a problem. I am wondering what the bow was developed for? And I have got to find a spur. Thanks for the heads up.

It was for brush clearing. In theory, you just thrust the front of the bar into the brush. Good luck.

We had some gear-reduction chainsaws--IIRC, the Homos. Much better with the bow bar due to the slow chain speed--but they don't stop for anything.

 

[The Cobbler]

here's my addition to this thread. about a year ago I picked this chain saw up from Habitat

 

[john.k]

Ive never seen or heard of a bow saw ...the pic has the same power unit as my 26" Mc Culloch which would be mid 60s ,probably ...........the old McC s have a bark that can be heard all through the forest when you load them up...............I must have cut hundreds of tons ,and more important cleard my back land area only weeks before the city council put a tree preservation order on it................thats where my new 40x50 shed is now .

 

[Provincial]

The theory of the bow saw bar is to cut cordwood (small diameter logs) unsupported without binding. An unsupported log will close together the cut as you approach the bottom of the cut, since there is nothing left in the kerf to carry the compression load on the top surface. A normal bar has the solid bar and the return part of the chain moving through the cut, and the chain is the full width of the kerf. The bow saw bar moves the return part of the chain up above the kerf, as well as that part of the bar that supports it. This leaves the cutting edge of the bar and chain, with a large gap behind it so it won't pinch when the kerf closes together.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

The theory of the bow saw bar is to cut cordwood (small diameter logs) unsupported without binding. An unsupported log will close together the cut as you approach the bottom of the cut, since there is nothing left in the kerf to carry the compression load on the top surface. A normal bar has the solid bar and the return part of the chain moving through the cut, and the chain is the full width of the kerf. The bow saw bar moves the return part of the chain up above the kerf, as well as that part of the bar that supports it. This leaves the cutting edge of the bar and chain, with a large gap behind it so it won't pinch when the kerf closes together.

After doing some research that is what I gathered. Relying on the spurs, to prevent kickback, and letting the weight of the saw do the cutting. Thanks. I would think the big open bar would be a hazard in a slew of brush. But some say they like it for brush. I will be on the lookout for the spurs. No sign of there ever being mounting holes for any other guards.

 

[B Halverson]

My wife shot this a dozen years ago when a sugar-maple in the yard died and had to come down. I dragged out the old McCulloch 15, have not used it since. Currently use a Stihl 16" battery job mostly or one of several gas Stihls laying around.

 

[Beerhippie]

After doing some research that is what I gathered. Relying on the spurs, to prevent kickback, and letting the weight of the saw do the cutting. Thanks. I would think the big open bar would be a hazard in a slew of brush. But some say they like it for brush. I will be on the lookout for the spurs. No sign of there ever being mounting holes for any other guards.

The spur--only one--is just that--a spur of metal. You can fab one with a minimum of effort and tools.

Here's a pic showing the spur:

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

The spur--only one--is just that--a spur of metal. You can fab one with a minimum of effort and tools.

Here's a pic showing the spur:

That is what I have been thinking since last night. Making spurs, but aluminum or steel. I have been all over the internet trying to find a pattern. Maybe someone here can find me a patent on the spurs for Mcculloch? Simple to do. I just only want to make them one time.

 

[Provincial]

I would like to see that. I just can't picture it swinging.

I took some photos of the old brush cutter. I've been aware of its existence for about 70 years, and it was old then! The blade is tempered steel, flexible, yet soft enough to sharpen with a file. This is why I think it was made from an old crosscut saw blade.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

I took some photos of the old brush cutter. I've been aware of its existence for about 70 years, and it was old then! The blade is tempered steel, flexible, yet soft enough to sharpen with a file. This is why I think it was made from an old crosscut saw blade.

That looks like it would break after the first swing. But I am sure you are limited on how big to cut.

 

[Provincial]

That looks like it would break after the first swing. But I am sure you are limited on how big to cut.

It is stronger than it looks. We always used an ax or chainsaw on bigger stuff, but it has cut some fairly large stuff.

 

[MiteyF]

Not near as old and cool, but I got this guy for $8 (5 saws for $40). Carb rebuild, new handle, and a new bar/chain. She's a great cutter.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Not near as old and cool, but I got this guy for $8 (5 saws for $40). Carb rebuild, new handle, and a new bar/chain. She's a great cutter.

That is a cool saw. What model is it?

 

[MiteyF]

10-10 auto I believe (it's not in front of me). As I understand it they sold essentially this same saw for decades with slight changes and varying names. 10-10 auto, mac 10 auto, pro mac etc. I think the group as a whole is generally referred to as 10-10's by most however.

She's fairly heavy and quite leaky (with a pull starter that's going to need replaced soon), but sounds killer and cuts great. I can use all of that 20" bar and she barely notices

 

[MiteyF]

I'm jealous, but also a bit confused by the full wrap handle on the OP's 1-51. I thought these bow bars were usually used for cutting stuff that was already laying on the ground, where a full wrap handle added more weight without much added benefit to the saw-er.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

10-10 auto I believe (it's not in front of me). As I understand it they sold essentially this same saw for decades with slight changes and varying names. 10-10 auto, mac 10 auto, pro mac etc. I think the group as a whole is generally referred to as 10-10's by most however.

She's fairly heavy and quite leaky (with a pull starter that's going to need replaced soon), but sounds killer and cuts great. I can use all of that 20" bar and she barely notices

Those 10-10 saws are great saws on other forums. I have yet to find one. Great resurrection.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

I'm jealous, but also a bit confused by the full wrap handle on the OP's 1-51. I thought these bow bars were usually used for cutting stuff that was already laying on the ground, where a full wrap handle added more weight without much added benefit to the saw-er.

I have watched videos of several debating as to some older users stood the saw on its nose and others bent down to use the bottom of the bar. Don't know Shaggy.

 

[Beerhippie]

I have watched videos of several debating as to some older users stood the saw on its nose and others bent down to use the bottom of the bar. Don't know Shaggy.

The bow bar is meant to cut with the front of the bow--hence the spur, which would do nothing if cutting with the bottom of the bar. I guess you can use it that way, but then there's little advantage to using the bow bar vs. a straight one--and several disadvantages I can think of.

I'm not buying the "doesn't bid in a closing cut" bit. First, if you don't know how to prevent binding, put the chainsaw down and grab an axe. Second, it'll still bind and now it's trapped with the bind inside the open bow.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

The bow bar is meant to cut with the front of the bow--hence the spur, which would do nothing if cutting with the bottom of the bar. I guess you can use it that way, but then there's little advantage to using the bow bar vs. a straight one--and several disadvantages I can think of.

I'm not buying the "doesn't bid in a closing cut" bit. First, if you don't know how to prevent binding, put the chainsaw down and grab an axe. Second, it'll still bind and now it's trapped with the bind inside the open bow.

I agree. I would not give it that much confidence of not binding. But some of these videos make it look easy cutting with the nose and letting the weight do the cutting.

 

[Provincial]

The bow bar is meant to cut with the front of the bow--hence the spur, which would do nothing if cutting with the bottom of the bar. I guess you can use it that way, but then there's little advantage to using the bow bar vs. a straight one--and several disadvantages I can think of.

I'm not buying the "doesn't bid in a closing cut" bit. First, if you don't know how to prevent binding, put the chainsaw down and grab an axe. Second, it'll still bind and now it's trapped with the bind inside the open bow.

To be clear, when I posted the "advantages" of the Bow Bar, I was repeating the sales pitch that was given to sell them.

 

[Beerhippie]

To be clear, when I posted the "advantages" of the Bow Bar, I was repeating the sales pitch that was given to sell them.

Understood!

I was given a monster Homelite gear-drive (IIRC) chainsaw with a bow bar and told to cut brush.

 

[john.k]

Youd definitely push it frontways into brush ............cutting heavy timber ,you need to cut from underside when the cut starts to close ,and that bow would be digging a trench.............I knew a guy used a chainsaw to cut grass cause he didnt have a mower.

 

[john.k]

My Mac is a S-550 ............at one time I had one was a worm gear drive,dont know what model it was .