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Battery crimper and top post connectors

cgrutt

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Replaced battery in MIL's 16kw Generac generator. Old one was badly corroded, esp negative terminal. I cleaned up terminals as best I could and installed new battery. Generator wouldn't start. The terminals looked fine but I cut them off and installed two universal battery connectors and it started right up. Go figure.

The cables are only 6 ga and I'm not thrilled with the clamped connection want to replace with crimped terminals.

Found these on Amazon tinned copper seems fine. (Negative terminal is the same but black).

Screenshot_20241114_145951_Chrome.jpg

Anybody know if these crimpers will do decent job?

Screenshot_20241114_150034_Chrome.jpg

They're only $26 including the cutters so not expecting them to be great i just need to make 2 crimps ATM so don't want to spend a lot of money on them. They seemed to have the most, mostly positive, reviews so that's what I picked. There are a bunch of brands all about same price that all look pretty much the same. I-crimp, Haisstronica, HKS were some other brands. The I-Crimps had a skelotonized frame that actually looked like it might be a bit stronger but I think the dies are all similar. Assuming at this price it's all from China.

There were some Hammer dies for about 1/2 the price but I don't think they made a hex crimp. There were also several hydraulic crimpers ranging from about $30 to $100. Believe the Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper is $70 and can be used on larger cables in future.

Any recommendations on a decent battery terminal crimper would be appreciated. I can see future need with my pickup truck and boat but generator (with 6 ga cables) is the immediate need. Thanks.
 
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WillRead

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I have that style just branded as iCrimp and for the price I can't complain they produce decent results. I've used them probably 20+ times at work.

I have not used them on that style of terminal. Normally I crimp an eyelet and use a terminal with a stud similar to what Toyota uses. Makes for a much more serviceable setup in my opinion.
 
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cgrutt

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I have that style just branded as iCrimp and for the price I can't complain they produce decent results. I've used them probably 20+ times at work.

I have not used them on that style of terminal. Normally I crimp an eyelet and use a terminal with a stud similar to what Toyota uses. Makes for a much more serviceable setup in my opinion.
Thanks. I was thinking about that as well but the crimped terminal is what was on cable from factory so just want to keep it that way it's not my generator.
 

PCustoms

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Not sure that terminal is crimp type. Really looks like one that would be soldered.
Looks like every crimp terminal I've ever seen...


Tool should work fine. If this was a high current/voltage I might be concerned, but at that point I'd be using different terminals and know the crimp specs so that I could inspect afterwards
 

Spareparts

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Fig has it covered, have a couple, not same brand but do well especially in the field. Don't take up
much in the tool box and only need a hammer.
 
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cgrutt

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Agreed.

Also these: Hammer Crimper work well too if on a budget.

Fig has it covered, have a couple, not same brand but do well especially in the field. Don't take up
much in the tool box and only need a hammer.


I don't really like the fact that they don't make a full hex crimp although I was looking at a Temco hydraulic crimper that seemed awesome. Only thing I didn't like was the price (approx $175). I'd buy those in a heartbeat if I had more use for them but only have this one project at the moment so really can't justify the cost. Other issue with the hammer style is I'd have to remove the entire cable (both positive and negative) to make the crimp and don't feel like opening up a can of worms...

Appreciate the suggestion though, thank you!
 

rlitman

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I don't really like the fact that they don't make a full hex crimp although I was looking at a Temco hydraulic crimper that seemed awesome. Only thing I didn't like was the price (approx $175). I'd buy those in a heartbeat if I had more use for them but only have this one project at the moment so really can't justify the cost. Other issue with the hammer style is I'd have to remove the entire cable (both positive and negative) to make the crimp and don't feel like opening up a can of worms...

Appreciate the suggestion though, thank you!
The linked hydraulic crimper is one of a bunch of generic small hydraulic crimpers, and they're all pretty much the same. May as well buy the cheapest deal you can find. Here's a $30 I see today:

The smallest ones seem to top out at 2/0 and are open on one side. You don't need the bigger than that, though I have one of the bigger ones at work as well as my personal smaller one.

Technically the die sizes are metric, but you can get it to work if you do the following. Close the dies until there is about a 1/8" gap. At this point it should be pinching the wire a bit, but not fully forming the crimp. OPEN the dies, rotate 1/6 turn so that an adjacent facet is now on top, and finish the crimp to completion. This is simply the nature of hexagonal dies in a 2-sided squeeze crimper (you really want a die that closes all 6 sides together, for a 2-sided crimp, there are oval systems that are ideal). A proper crimp cannot be formed in a single pass. If you squeeze it in one shot, you're going to pinch a ribbon of ferrule out between the dies. But once you have the hex starting to take shape, if you turn the die, it finishes to perfection.
 
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cgrutt

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So I can buy the Temco hydraulic crimper tool only and the 6AWG die for $66. They sell the 18 die set separately for about $70 or the 32 die set for about $90. Or I can just buy the dies that I need for $18 per set. I think I'm going to go this route as I don't really need anything other than the 6 GA die at the moment and this will give me the option to buy whatever size I need in the future. Not sure what size cable is on my boat but it's pretty thick (at least 5/8" maybe 3/4" from memory (not sure what Gauge that translates into). I'd rather spend a little more and get the better tool even if it doesn't include all the options at the moment. Appreciate your help guys. Thanks.

Screenshot_20241114_194953_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20241114_195007_Chrome.jpg
 
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cgrutt

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Not sure that terminal is crimp type. Really looks like one that would be soldered.
Terminal is tinned copper it can be crimped and/or soldered. The three blue lines are actually there to mark where they should be crimped.

ETA this is a similar style from different brand the marking actually says "crimp 1" and "crimp 2".

Screenshot_20241114_202845_Chrome.jpg
 
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AC-WC

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I would solder it. I did '0' gauge wires for the Lemans almost 30 yrs ago and they are still in great shape. You'll need a vise to hold the terminal, a propane torch, flux and solder. Solder just like you would a copper pipe. It will take a little bit to get it heated properly.
 
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cgrutt

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I would solder it. I did '0' gauge wires for the Lemans almost 30 yrs ago and they are still in great shape. You'll need a vise to hold the terminal, a propane torch, flux and solder. Solder just like you would a copper pipe. It will take a little bit to get it heated properly.
Thought about that but kinda set on crimping it it's not my generator and want to keep it as close to factory as possible. Was really surprised it wouldn't start after cleaning up the factory ends it must draw alot of current. I've soldered battery cables before with no issues.
 

isb cornbinder

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I got a simple battery cable crimper from the heavy cable supplier. I use it in an arbour press. This crimp tool is just OK. I would say it is at 40% for finish. I solder my connections.
 

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decableguy2000

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Have lots of bigger.cable crimpers, have one like OP first posted works okay not my favorite. A hammer crimp works well in a press and vise as well. An EZ-Red B7946 size of hammer crimper but use lead screw. Brundy MY29-3, my favorite if building on a bench, and last is ratchet crimper that will crimp up to 4awg.
 
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cgrutt

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Well I ordered the Temco with just the 6 ga die. I'll buy the other dies and case another time. So much for saving money lol...
 

dcg9381

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Those crimpers are ********. Here's the deal:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QVBD6VM/?tag=atomicindus08-20 $40 and hydraulic so that you don't have to strain your balls off and can do any welding or battery cable size.
I have the same crimper. It IS ********. Don't waste your time on that piece of ****.

The hammer crimper is what I use for anything over 1ga, but I'm not sure it will do those "lead posts". I've probably done 40 connections and never had a problem.


1731688384739.png
 
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cgrutt

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I have the same crimper. It IS ********. Don't waste your time on that piece of ****.

The hammer crimper is what I use for anything over 1ga, but I'm not sure it will do those "lead posts". I've probably done 40 connections and never had a problem.


1731688384739.png
Looks good. As stated I wound up buying the Temco hydraulic crimper, which seems to have good reviews. The terminal connectors are copper (tin coated) not lead. I'm sure the hammer style would work I just would prefer a hex crimp with these. The terminals won't be delivered for at least a week (says Amazon but I've ordered stuff before that wound up being delivered earlier than expected). I'll post an update after ends are installed.
 

dscheidt

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"dual wall heat shrink" = "marine heat shrink"

No, not at all. dual wall means double thickness. That doesn't tell you material or if it's filled with adhesive.

Marine heat shrink (real, actual, stuff, not necessarily what you get from random amazon product) will be dual walled, polyoelfin or silicone tube, with adhesive. But there's all sorts of dual wall pvc, no glue heat shrink, and it has uses in less extreme environments (like inside a household appliance or something, for instnace.).
 

welder4956

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I know you already ordered the crimper, but another option is to just order the cables pre-made. I went this route on my Mustang for less money than the tool alone. I measured the lengths and terminal sizes needed and ordered them with 4 gauge wire from Battery Cables USA and received them in just a few days. Here's the link: https://www.batterycablesusa.com/
 
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cgrutt

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I know you already ordered the crimper, but another option is to just order the cables pre-made. I went this route on my Mustang for less money than the tool alone. I measured the lengths and terminal sizes needed and ordered them with 4 gauge wire from Battery Cables USA and received them in just a few days. Here's the link: https://www.batterycablesusa.com/
Yeah I understand that but I've been accumulating my tools this way over half a lifetime. Old habits hard to break and all that. Now it gives me an excuse to change the cables in my boat this spring (which are probably needed after a near disaster this past Spring). Have over 500,000 miles between our three vehicles and always helping friends with one project or another. Have no problem with a crimper for larger cables I'll wind up using it.

Also nothing really wrong with the cables on generator aside from the terminals. I'm servicing it as we speak still in very good shape overall. Only 68.5 hrs runtime since 2015.

20241115_134016.jpg
 

ericg

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@cgrutt, you should tell your MIL to add the oil filter heater. Cheap upgrade but makes a big difference in the really cold weather.
 
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cgrutt

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No, not at all. dual wall means double thickness. That doesn't tell you material or if it's filled with adhesive.

Marine heat shrink (real, actual, stuff, not necessarily what you get from random amazon product) will be dual walled, polyoelfin or silicone tube, with adhesive. But there's all sorts of dual wall pvc, no glue heat shrink, and it has uses in less extreme environments (like inside a household appliance or something, for instnace.).
I had to look. It actually does say dual wall. It's made by Wirefy. Cross-linked polyolefin with adhesive. I bought it from Amazon.
 

dscheidt

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Never heard that before ! Dual wall has always meant " filled with adhesive" in my experience !

What's easy to get for consumers is either garbage single wall stuff, or dual wall adhesive stuff, probably because people either want cheap or they're willing to put up with glue for the water resistance. (The last time I bought heat shrink at an autoparts store, they had only garbage.)


For engineered designs, there are good reasons to want the various permutations of wall thickness, material, shrink ratio, and adhesive filled or not. In general thicker wall material is more expensive, less flexible, and requires more heat to shrink. same with higher shrink ratios, and adhesive filling. so for a piece of consumer electronics, where the shrink tube is mostly to keep pieces from shorting together, you'll find single wall stuff, that's probably low shrink ratio, and some special stuff if an inline component needs to be wrapped up. On something like a battery cable, you should find good double wall stuff, with adhesive, because mechanical abrasion and corrosion from water intrusion are what's being protected.
 

theoldwizard1

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On something like a battery cable, you should find good double wall stuff, with adhesive, because mechanical abrasion and corrosion from water intrusion are what's being protected.
I need the "good stuff" for most everything. I buy generic "marine dual wall" from eBay. I "stock" many sizes, but sometime I will buy 1'-2' of larger diameter for special jobs.
 

csp

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Well I ordered the Temco with just the 6 ga die. I'll buy the other dies and case another time. So much for saving money lol...
Don't be surprised if that 6ga die is actually much smaller than 6ga. None of those Chicom hydraulic crimpers have accurately labeled dies. I've seen it said that they're metric, but it can't be that hard to convert gauge to mm squared correctly. They're always quite a bit undersized.
 
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cgrutt

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Don't be surprised if that 6ga die is actually much smaller than 6ga. None of those Chicom hydraulic crimpers have accurately labeled dies. I've seen it said that they're metric, but it can't be that hard to convert gauge to mm squared correctly. They're always quite a bit undersized.
We'll see the die is actually color coded blue which is what is used on the terminal so I believe it is the correct size. I believe the Temco tool and dies are actually made in California.
 
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