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Looking for advice on shop air compressor

Ohioan

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Joined
Nov 20, 2021
Messages
5
I do quite a bit of work on cars in my barn (40' X 40' pole barn), and I think I want to invest in air tools.

So I need a compressor, obviously. Am thinking about getting this one. How does it look?


But what else should I get? A dryer? If so, what type? Oiler? How should it be plumbed? I am not finding much info on the web.

Thanks!
 
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finn

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Mar 27, 2005
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The UP, God's country
I would skip the oiler unless the piping is dedicated to run air tools only and you never intend to run a spray gun or even a blow gun. Once the piping is contaminated with oil….well, it’s contaminated.

a filter / dryer, combined with an inline regulator is good to have, if not a must. Put a drop in the line for draining moisture, before the filter regulator, and use a section of high preddire hydraulic hose to isolate the compressor.

Mine is plumbed with black pipe, but there are leaks in the system in high places I can’t really reach conveniently, so I have a ball valve at the compressor to isolate it from the system.

Others swear by copper piping or the plastic pex or al/pex kits commercially available. strategically place multiple drops around the shop. And have an electrical disconnect within line of site of the compressor, preferably within arms reach so you’re not tempted to leave it connected “just for a second” if you have to work on it for some reason.

Don’t fall into the trap of ruling air hose across the floor. It’s a pita.
 
OP
O

Ohioan

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2021
Messages
5
I would skip the oiler unless the piping is dedicated to run air tools only and you never intend to run a spray gun or even a blow gun. Once the piping is contaminated with oil….well, it’s contaminated.

a filter / dryer, combined with an inline regulator is good to have, if not a must. Put a drop in the line for draining moisture, before the filter regulator, and use a section of high preddire hydraulic hose to isolate the compressor.

Mine is plumbed with black pipe, but there are leaks in the system in high places I can’t really reach conveniently, so I have a ball valve at the compressor to isolate it from the system.

Others swear by copper piping or the plastic pex or al/pex kits commercially available. strategically place multiple drops around the shop. And have an electrical disconnect within line of site of the compressor, preferably within arms reach so you’re not tempted to leave it connected “just for a second” if you have to work on it for some reason.

Don’t fall into the trap of ruling air hose across the floor. It’s a pita.
Wow, thanks for the detailed response!

How does the compressor look in my OP? (I just have single phase 240 V in the barn.)
 

rbryantaz

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Feb 9, 2024
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Location
phoenix, AZ
Wow, thanks for the detailed response!

How does the compressor look in my OP? (I just have single phase 240 V in the barn.)
Looks like a very nice compressor.

It will need at least a 8ga circuit to handle the 40 amps and 48amp startup. I would probably run 6/2 romex for that but you could get away with 8/2 or better yet 8 THHN in conduit or 8/2 MC (which uses THHN copper wire).

I only have a 60 gallon husky single stage compressor that is rated for 10.2CFM @135psi and it won't fully keep up with die grinders. It also isn't rated for 100% duty cycle so I need to stop after a few mins to let it cool.

-Rich
 

Ag 85

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Joined
Apr 27, 2023
Messages
12
Location
Bellville Texas
The Polar Air by Eaton is good quality and has good warranty.
finn is correct on install.
I recently upgraded to MEGA 5HP. Only a few hours of history so far but good performance.
Personal work shop needed 15+ CFM for blasting cabinet and tools. Keeps up real well. Considerably less cost but quality is good. Build in USA.
Reasonably quiet but I still put on spring isolators to reduce building vibration. Was able to locate in conditioned storage loft. Keeps the Texas humidity out of air a bit better. Dryer is great idea but I went cheap so far. Can here it run from shop but barely. Very pleased.
 

txvwnut

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Jan 1, 2015
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Location
Bedford, Texas
Wow, thanks for the detailed response!

How does the compressor look in my OP? (I just have single phase 240 V in the barn.)
It'll do everything you need it to do and more. The only difference between that compressor and mine is tank size, the Eaton has an 80 gallon tank and I have a 60 gallon and never run out of air.
 

danielbuck

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Apr 15, 2014
Messages
922
do some sort of radiator and water trap inbetween the compressor and the tank, and that will take care of over 90% of the water before it ever gets to your tank.
 

u3b3rg33k

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Joined
Dec 18, 2017
Messages
4,048
I do quite a bit of work on cars in my barn (40' X 40' pole barn), and I think I want to invest in air tools.

So I need a compressor, obviously. Am thinking about getting this one. How does it look?


But what else should I get? A dryer? If so, what type? Oiler? How should it be plumbed? I am not finding much info on the web.

Thanks!
what kind of treatment you need depends on what you want to do with it and how long you're going to run it at a time.
for anything beyond hobby use (filling tires, zipping lugnuts), I'd suggest a decent filter + water/oil separator and a refrigerated dryer (plumbed in that order).

if it's gonna sit 99% of the time, those probably aren't needed. if you want to paint, you may need to go further.
 

Firebrick43

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May 12, 2015
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14,096
Location
West central Indiana
A friend of mine and I went to the factory and each bought that model for our shops maybe in 2014 or 2015.

They are relatively quiet due to low pump speed and good performance

The only issue with has been a gasket in the intercooler blew a small section out last year. A cereal box and aviation gasket sealer had him going again quickly.
 
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Steve_P

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Sep 15, 2010
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It'll do everything you need it to do and more. The only difference between that compressor and mine is tank size, the Eaton has an 80 gallon tank and I have a 60 gallon and never run out of air.

It'll do everything except maybe pressure pot blasting- then it may or may not keep up depending on nozzle size.
 

finn

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Mar 27, 2005
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16,290
Location
The UP, God's country
Wow, thanks for the detailed response!

How does the compressor look in my OP? (I just have single phase 240 V in the barn.)
Compressor looks fine.

You’re always going to fins some partisans that say only Saylor Beal, only Champion, or only Quincy, and then further limit to a certain model of those brands.

Fact is, if it’s only a one man hobby shop, you can get by with less.

Figure how many hours it’s actually going to run per month, how many years you realistically expect to be working at that rate in the shop, and most likely the best bang for the buck is a box store compressor, at least in my case.

But then there are intangibles like low noise, having something nice (shop jewelry?), etc and it’s a good choice.

In my case, I bought a well used but rebuilt Champion about ten years ago. It’s low speed, with a cast iron VR15 pump, and in the walled off boiler room so it’s relatively quiet. I use it hard sometimes, but it sits for half the year when I head south. I’ve had it ten years with only occasional oil changes. I have no doubt it will still be running when I’m long gone.

Enjoy.
 

Rockable

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Jan 6, 2019
Messages
486
Location
Oak Ridge, NC
I would definitely go with the 80 gallon tank if you are going to do a lot of blast cabinet and grinding work. I would also check out Quincy and not install a lubricator in the airline. Just manually lubricate your air tools. Just think of the mess in your blast cabinet if you had a lubricator in line.
 

driftpin

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Dec 22, 2016
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Location
Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
I have a Saylor Beall I bought used, a friend sells and services air compressors. A 705 w/a Baldor 240V ~24 amp motor, 80 gal. upright tank. I got a water separator and a pressure regulator from him also. It does what I need in my 2 car garage. If you're happy with the specs of what you found, the suggestions others made should help you to have a decent set-up.

I agree about lubricating the air tools as you use them, leaving the lines clean for an uncontaminated system for painting.
 

MongoTA

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Joined
Mar 10, 2018
Messages
1,006
Location
CT
I do quite a bit of work on cars in my barn (40' X 40' pole barn), and I think I want to invest in air tools.

So I need a compressor, obviously. Am thinking about getting this one. How does it look?


But what else should I get? A dryer? If so, what type? Oiler? How should it be plumbed? I am not finding much info on the web.

Thanks!
New is fine of course, but if you're open to it check out auctions in your area as well Bidspotter, or any of the government surplus sites. There are some dogs out there, but most of the compressors are well maintained, and the 1750RPM can last decades. Easily.

You've gotten good info from others. I agree with rerouting the plumbing your compressor. It was the first thing I did when I got my Quincy. Have the air out of the compressor first go to a cooler of some sort. Some guys use transmission radiators, I have a run of copper pipe. Let the hot air cool, let the majority of the moisture condense out, then the drier air can be plumbed into your 80G tank.

Dry air is especially important for plasma cutters, painting, and blast booths. I have driers/filters at the end or the plumbing runs that feeds those tools. Those water filters will get the last bit of moisture out, though with a good setup upstream, they'll not see much moisture load.

When you plumb your system, consider installing valves so you can isolate the compressor from the air distribution runs. Also plan your drops and drains.

Over time you'll find more things to use it for.

Congrats on getting it all started.
 

Ing3018

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Sep 3, 2009
Messages
188
Location
Michigan, USA
It'll do everything except maybe pressure pot blasting- then it may or may not keep up depending on nozzle size.
I run a pressure pot blaster with a similar specification air compressor. I run an 1/8" nozzle and typically set the regulator at the pot at 50 psi. Allows me to blast continuously and the production rate is acceptable for my hobby use. I highly recommend a head unloader and continuous run pilot valve for this blasting application.
 
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