Lets make an all vintage Snap-on tool picture thread!

[Steven 33]

here's my 29/30 set brand new unused condition besides a few extras added. I can't possibly do it justice in pictures but this stuff is amazing for its age even being unused.

 

[3baygarage]

Hard to follow that beautiful set, but I got lucky at the Flywheelers show with a $1 bin find. I started to walk away and decided to remove some bulky items from the bin. It was worth it.

1/2” drive universal joint. Can’t find a date stamp. It’ll joint the early flex socket I found there a few years ago.

 

[Oldtuleguy]

That's an oldie!

 

[Steven 33]

Universals are sweet. I still need to do some upgrading but here's a few of mine. Yours is one of the earlier ones. Should have a removable plug

Hard to follow that beautiful set, but I got lucky at the Flywheelers show with a $1 bin find. I started to walk away and decided to remove some bulky items from the bin. It was worth it.

1/2” drive universal joint. Can’t find a date stamp. It’ll joint the early flex socket I found there a few years ago.

 

[3baygarage]

Nice lineup there. This one is one piece, not the plug type.

 

[misterbill]

As mentioned in the 2024 Garage Sale Thread (13th Annual), I just picked this "Mechanikit" carry box (20" x 7.75" x 5.5"). I'm trying to identify what model (K-24, KR-24, etc.) and manufacturing timeframe it is. The stamped logo seems like it would be pre-1947 and the red paint says post WWII. Does the decal help date it?









Bill

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I think immediate post war is the right sweet spot, Bill. If you avail yourself of the catalogs on collectingsnapon.com (they're all finally re-uploaded), I think you'll find the model numbers and confirm that juncture.

 

[Oldtuleguy]

The metal handle suggest postwar, decal is 40s

 

[misterbill]

Thanks for the feedback. FWIW, Snap-on catalog "R" (1946) lists the K-24 with "Smooth grey enamel finish." and catalog "S" (1948) lists the KR-24 with "Red enamel finish.". So, it's either a transitional post-war K-24 or a KR-24.

Now I'm suffering that eternal debate - to strip it and repaint it or not. I cleaned it up gently this morning but it just continues flaking paint on the outside. I generally fall into the "it's only original once" camp, but this may need to be repainted. I might first try hitting it with a satin clear to see if it holds. I can always repaint it afterwards if it doesn't, I suppose.

Bill

 

[Raineman]

Now I'm suffering that eternal debate - to strip it and repaint it or not.

It can only be "original" once.

 

[Farmer J.]

Now I'm suffering that eternal debate - to strip it and repaint it or not. I cleaned it up gently this morning but it just continues flaking paint on the outside. I generally fall into the "it's only original once" camp, but this may need to be repainted.

The rust looks horrible, it's a nasty canker that's working away to completely destroy the actual box.
This one needs a repaint, and that will be part of it's history and preserve the actual core item. Paint is a sacrificial protective coating that needs renewing if necessary, you even can easily get a new sticker too and it could look great and last for many more years.

 

[B Halverson]

I thought this was an interesting little thing when I found it;

 

[d42jeep]

Seems like if you have one of those, you need one of these.
-Don

 

[B Halverson]

Seems like if you have one of those, you need one of these.
-Don

Are you responding to my post showing the quarter-inch spinner torque wrench ??? Did you mistake it for an impact driver???

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Are you responding to my post showing the quarter-inch spinner torque wrench ??? Did you mistake it for an impact driver???

I was?

 

[d42jeep]

I was too.
-Don

 

[RTM]

I don't see any torque markings, graduations, etc, so yeah, me too.

 

[bmwrd0]

I see a 0 and (I think) a four on a collar up by the anvil on that little torquer.

 

[B Halverson]

I see a 0 and (I think) a four on a collar up by the anvil on that little torquer.

Yes, you pull the silver colored collard down and it unlocks a micrometer adjustment using the knurled brass collar, goes from 0 to 100 somethings, feels too light to be inch pounds but I guess I will have to test it and see. It is a click-type torque driver, when it reaches the set torque you can feel it sort of clicking over the resistance and resetting to zero, as if it has a cam in it's mechanism. They are listed in old Snapon catalogs, the "Z" on this may mean it is from 1962. My guess is that this is something that Snap-on may have offered for general sale, but also it seems to me like it would be something used in a production setting for assembling a lot of things all day long with precision, and I wonder if they would make them with a custom scale range depending on what was needed by some major company or corporation. I know that is a lot of surmising, but it is just something that jumped into my head.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

Yes, you pull the silver colored collard down and it unlocks a micrometer adjustment using the knurled brass collar, goes from 0 to 100 somethings, feels too light to be inch pounds but I guess I will have to test it and see. It is a click-type torque driver, when it reaches the set torque you can feel it sort of clicking over the resistance and resetting to zero, as if it has a cam in it's mechanism. They are listed in old Snapon catalogs, the "Z" on this may mean it is from 1962. My guess is that this is something that Snap-on may have offered for general sale, but also it seems to me like it would be something used in a production setting for assembling a lot of things all day long with precision, and I wonder if they would make them with a custom scale range depending on what was needed by some major company or corporation. I know that is a lot of surmising, but it is just something that jumped into my head.

Good Hypothesis. Makes sense. I want to see one in a catalog.

 

[bmwrd0]

I have a Snap-on dial type inch/ounce torque screwdriver, and I wouldn't be surprised if that was the range for this little job.

 

[B Halverson]

Good Hypothesis. Makes sense. I want to see one in a catalog.

I looked at some pdf catalogs in the archive and there is nothing like this in the '62 catalog despite the marking on this tool, so maybe this particular example was not available to the public. But they do show up in the 1970 catalog in the archives, though it does not look exactly the same and does not have the model number this one has. I am sure I got this at some estate sale or junk-shop locally, and it is the only one I have ever seen in my town, and before I got this one I had never heard or seen of anything like it anywhere. I am not a collector of Snap-on tools, but if I trip across them for cheap and they are interesting I might pick them up, and this was certainly interesting.

 

[B Halverson]

I have a Snap-on dial type inch/ounce torque screwdriver, and I wouldn't be surprised if that was the range for this little job.

Makes sense. I put adapters on it to connect it to a regular dial type torque wrench I have, to see how it moved the needle when set to it's max torque position and it did not move the needle much, so it would make sense that it's range is in unit much smaller than inch-pounds.

 

[RTM]

I see a 0 and (I think) a four on a collar up by the anvil on that little torquer.

show off. i was looking at the zoomed in pix.

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Now I'm suffering that eternal debate - to strip it and repaint it or not. I cleaned it up gently this morning but it just continues flaking paint on the outside. I generally fall into the "it's only original once" camp, but this may need to be repainted.

Is it only continuing to flake on the front where it's already flaking, Bill? Or is it equally brittle on other panels? There is A LOT of original paint left everywhere else on that box! There is a compromise between stripping or leaving it alone. Just scrape that front area and only as far/much as it flakes. De-rust. Then only touch up that area or spray just that whole panel. You may not find the exact shade of that aged red, but I am confident you can get close enough that it won't be noticeable, especially because it will always present differently in the light than the top and side panels. ALL boxes do that, even when new. That decal is available from the eBay repro guy.

 

[misterbill]

Is it only continuing to flake on the front where it's already flaking, Bill? Or is it equally brittle on other panels? There is A LOT of original paint left everywhere else on that box! There is a compromise between stripping or leaving it alone. Just scrape that front area and only as far/much as it flakes. De-rust. Then only touch up that area or spray just that whole panel. You may not find the exact shade of that aged red, but I am confident you can get close enough that it won't be noticeable, especially because it will always present differently in the light than the top and side panels. ALL boxes do that, even when new. That decal is available from the eBay repro guy.

I decided to leave the question of repainting as a problem for future Bill. I scraped off the flaking parts and covered everything with a satin clear. We shall see how that holds up. I also ordered the decal in case future Bill decides to repaint. (I also think that there is a can of Rustoleum Sunrise Red laying around here somewhere!)

Bill

 

[MR.X]

4pt. 1 1/4 S/O from a rough partial set I bought years ago in North Portland I think I paid $20 for the box.

 

[snapmom]

4pt. 1 1/4 S/O from a rough partial set I bought years ago in North Portland I think I paid $20 for the box.

does the box have a label on it

 

[MR.X]

does the box have a label on it

what’s left

 

[Oldtuleguy]

That's an old one

 

[Patrick Eubanks]

That's an old one

When did they start producing 1/4 drive sets

 

[Private Lugnutz]

When did they start producing 1/4 drive sets

Hey Patrick, long time no see.

Rather than profess to give you a definitive answer, I will give you the path I took to exploring that very question from the G503 collecting perspective many years ago and let you draw your own conclusions.

If you take the catalog view, you will see only 9/32-inch drive pieces in catalogs until catalog "P" (1942), when a special 1/4-inch drive ratchet appears. No other pieces. Why would they do that? Because the ratchet frame and head were identical to the 9/32-inch drive ratchet. They just replaced the drive plug. The 1/4-inch drive line appears in full in catalog "Q" (1945). Implying that sometime between 1942 and 1945 they changed their tool and die.

If you take the date code view, have you ever seen any 1/4-drive sets with 1942 or 1943 date codes? I haven't. I have one 1943 ratchet. All the 1/4-inch stuff I have seen has been "E" (1944) and "G" (1945).

 

[MR.X]

When did they start producing 1/4 drive sets

I’m lost. Looks like you were referring to Oldtuleguy’s “that’s an old one” which I thought was referring to my post. The 4 pt. Socket in my pic clearly isn’t a 1/4” drive so…..?

 

[Oldtuleguy]

There was some earlier 1/4 inch bits, but sets all seem to be 44 and later. Here's a 38 gm70n

 

[Patrick Eubanks]

I’m lost. Looks like you were referring to Oldtuleguy’s “that’s an old one” which I thought was referring to my post. The 4 pt. Socket in my pic clearly isn’t a 1/4” drive so…..?

Yea I was confused but Lugz answered my question anyway

 

[retroheavy]

I hope this counts. I was looking for a fairly basic utility knife for my hand carry box and couldn’t really find anything I like so I decided to polish up this old snap-on ga169. Attached a pic of the before as well.

 

[Old Radar]

I decided to polish up this old snap-on ga169

You could also post it on the BEFORE & AFTER....A Tool Polisher's Haven thread.

 

[3baygarage]

Located a second F-10 “Ferret Nut Spinner Handle” example here (bottom). Appears to have a 1930 date.

I wanted to compare it side by side with the 1929 example.

Other than the date stamp they’re identical, with the exception of the offset square, and the slightly longer forks on the ‘29. Still not sure about the ball crimp as Steven mentioned. Repair?




1930 & 1929

 

[snapmom]

Maybe the holes are for a ball. I do not have an example with the ball, but what else could the hole be for.
Here is a 33 with the ball on the inside side, I think this started in about 31.

 

[snapmom]

A 1941 P71-10. 1/2dr. industrial. Has a ball detent, but should have a pin detent, so If you have a spare wheel with a pin detet holler at me.