Garage door Install over Drywall?

[wsimpso1]

Newbie on this forum. Thanks for having me.

Contractor installed a divider and drywalled/mudded all around it, and I am mounting a garage door. I have done garage doors before, but always had the framing right there...

Do I screw the 2x6 jamb and 10x10 spring mount plate to the framing through the drywall? Seems fragile to me, clamping on that gypsum board...

Do I remove the drywall and screw the jamb to the framing? Messy cutting mudded drywall and pulling screws, but I will do it if that is the right way.

Thanks!

Billski

 

[manwithtools]

Using good quality construction screws, I'd have no problem fastening on top of the sheetrock, clamping it in effect. I might use a few extra screws, but I would not go to the trouble of cutting out the sheetrock.

 

[The Cobbler]

is it the preferred way? maybe not, but if you cut away the drywall will it be flopping in the breeze now?
either way, if you fasten the door on top of the drywall or cut away the drywall will be fine .
I would probably remove it if it was mine , but I've done a lot of drywall work and am very comfortable with it .

 

[wsimpso1]

Ok, maybe I remove some drywall, maybe I don't.

Clopay says to attach the 2x6 jambs with flush lag screws. No sizes and no spacing specified in the manual. No where in my engineering career would that have been acceptable direction to a customer... I have a request in to Clopay on that too. They seem to have a lomg weekend...

Does anyone have any guidance on lag screw diameter and spacing to use?

Billski

 

[JohnX14]

You can "Trim" the drywall with either 1x stock or 2x stock and either lag into it (2x) or through it (1x). On top of the drywall. I would not lag the door hardware on top of the drywall into the framing behind it. The drywall will 'crush' as the door is operated over the years. The door jamb may need to be extended, depending on how you do it. You can also cut out the drywall and install the same 'trim'. The drywall may float after that, but that wouldn't be a big concern to me.

 

[The Cobbler]

attach the 2x6 jambs with flush lag screws.

nailing would be fine. nothing extravagant required. don't over think it

 

[PassnThru]

I finished my detached garage walls with OSB which is arguably stronger in compression than drywall. Even then I didn't want to mount the door tracks on the OSB for both stength and cosmetic reasons. So I went with a 1X6 frame around the door opening. I routed a 7/16 slot in the 1X edge where it would meet up with the OSB so it would overhang it and provide a neat joint while allowing my door tracks to mount to real wood. The lags for the tracks are going to go into the studs of the wall anyway but the 1X won't compress.
You could do the same with the drywall and then you don't have to worry about cutting a perfect line and finishing it - the cut will be covered up.

 

[manwithtools]

All, he's not talking about mounting the hardware to the drywall. He's talking about securing 2x material flat to the wall and THEN installing the hardware to the 2x material.

Much like the image below:

 

[The Cobbler]

All, he's not talking about mounting the hardware to the drywall.

not sure who you're directing to, but I understood that

 

[manwithtools]

not sure who you're directing to, but I understood that

Yep, sorry. I knew you understood @The Cobbler, more directed at @JohnX14

 

[johnre]

It will be fine to keep the drywall in place underneath.

Think of all the other things in the house that are mounted in a similar fashion and subjected to stresses - cabinets, shelves, stair rails, baseboard, door, and window trim, etc. Drywall, like concrete, does pretty well for stress as long as it's kept in compression, and the material underneath it doesn't move.

 

[wsimpso1]

If I were to cut my drywall back, cut edges would be hanging in space. The other engineer in the house pointed that out independantly...

Inletting the 2x to lap the drywall cut edge still leaves dtywall unsupported and very easily trashed. I can't really get in there either.

Looks like I clamp the drywall between 2x6s and studs.

I am figuring 12" nominal spacing for 1/4 × 3 lag screws. Sound OK for hanging the 2x6s?

 

[manwithtools]

I am figuring 12" nominal spacing for 1/4 × 3 lag screws. Sound OK for hanging the 2x6s?

Sounds fine, but these days I would be using LedgerLok screws from FastenMaster. No predrilling required, just run them in with an impact driver.

 

[Rusted Nut]

I’ve seen garage door track brackets over drywall, no big deal. You could also just cut out a bit of drywall where the track brackets go; seen that as well.