25x50 Tube Frame Reroof

[Dieseltech86]

I bought a house with this preexisting building. I honestly didn't expect much but after a few months I've noticed that it'll never be completely dry inside until to do something with the roof.
There is a condensation issue but the main problem is the way the panels run lengthwise the valleys hold water. I assume this is a cheaper option initially but realize it's quite a problem when the screw washers get some age. I assume the building is close to 20 yrs old. I have some edge rot where the panels overlap in the center. I could just redo a few sections and install new screws everywhere but I would rather be done with it and fix it by installing new panels facing the other direction with a ridge. Is there a clip system for this? Kinda lost but redoing the entire thing is absolutely out of my budget. I put a ladder stand up to take this picture after a storm.

 

[Youngandfree]

I'd do new screws like these and probably an elastomeric coating. Going to require purlins to put vertical sheets on it.

ST Fastening #14 X 1-1/2" ZXL Tapping Woodbinder Metal Roofing Screw -

Sealtite ZXL Tapping Woodbinder screws are designed to attach metal roofing & siding to wood purlins on post-frame & residential metal roof applications. These tapping screws work well as rescue screws for older, rundown structures. 5/16" cupped CHWH with a molded ZAMAC 5 Zinc-Aluminum alloy...

www.fastenersplus.com

 

[readhead]

I have actually fixed a few of these buildings by simply installing new metal over the existing metal. Fast and easy. You don’t have any snow issues so the extra weight shouldn’t be a problem.

 

[Firebrick43]

Metal run horizontal will never be completely leak free. Its a car port not a garage/shop

The upgraded steel tube buildings have purlins running across the tubes and the metal is applied in the vertical orientation.

 

[Bert_]

Strap it with 2x4's

 

[Dieseltech86]

Metal run horizontal will never be completely leak free. Its a car port not a garage/shop

The upgraded steel tube buildings have purlins running across the tubes and the metal is applied in the vertical orientation.

The back half is closed in and poorly insulated so I have to use it for my 25x25 shop at the moment. If I had the option it'd get removed and a real metal building would be erected. Not enough dollars to go around at the moment.

 

[Dieseltech86]

Strap it with 2x4's

This is what I'm leaning towards. The valleys are already going across the 2x3 metal framing.

 

[Bert_]

This is what I'm leaning towards. The valleys are already going across the 2x3 metal framing.

Call them ribs. Easier for everybody following along.

Put your strapping 2-2 1/2' apart.

 

[Dieseltech86]

I'd do new screws like these and probably an elastomeric coating. Going to require purlins to put vertical sheets on it.

ST Fastening #14 X 1-1/2" ZXL Tapping Woodbinder Metal Roofing Screw -

Sealtite ZXL Tapping Woodbinder screws are designed to attach metal roofing & siding to wood purlins on post-frame & residential metal roof applications. These tapping screws work well as rescue screws for older, rundown structures. 5/16" cupped CHWH with a molded ZAMAC 5 Zinc-Aluminum alloy...

www.fastenersplus.com

These were the screws I'm planning to use for sure.

 

[jack stand]

With the radius at the eaves and something at the "ridge" that will need some creative purlins (increasing height) to create an actual ridge.....
I'd think about slopping on some fibered roof paint in an attempt to seal it up before I threw money at it with new, re oriented metal.

 

[Dieseltech86]

Yes, this is something I have considered and not sure how it'll turn out. I just feel stuck with a **** situation. I might have to lay some wood up there to get an idea of where it meets and take measurements. I feel like sloping paint at best case scenario will be 8-10 years until I'm dealing with it again.

On that note, is the fiber aluminum paint better or worse than the white rubbery elastomeric?

 

[MovingAlong]

Yes, this is something I have considered and not sure how it'll turn out. I just feel stuck with a **** situation. I might have to lay some wood up there to get an idea of where it meets and take measurements. I feel like sloping paint at best case scenario will be 8-10 years until I'm dealing with it again.

On that note, is the fiber aluminum paint better or worse than the white rubbery elastomeric?

Fibered aluminum roof paint is to protect what's under it from the sun, no sealer properties that I'm aware of.

Elastomeric is tricky, if you get water between it and the base - now you've got a problem... but I'm mostly thinking about walls. Roof is different of course.

 

[66Caprice]

They are designed to be slopped one direction or the other to allow water to run off. The metal roofing is then laid down with the lowest point roofed first till you get to the high side. That way the seams are overlapped down slope. Order new roofing from your local metal supplier and redo it.