Looking for advice on increasing the strength and usefulness of my truck bed loading ramps. I bought one of the aluminum ramp plate kits and got some ground treated 2x10s. My truck isn’t lifted and I am using 8’ boards as I have an 8' bed. There is still a fair bit of deflection in the boards and I am looking to improve upon the current setup. I have some angle iron that I was going to use, but I am not sure how to best utilize it. I was thinking of either mounting the inside of the angle iron to the bottom of each board edge or mounting a flat side of the angle iron to the center of the board. The first option would keep the overall profile of the boards pretty much the same. The second option would leave one of the sides of the angle iron sticking down for the whole length of the board which would increase the overall profile. Another issue I am trying to address is the traction of the board. I have a lot of scrap diamond plate steel, sheet steel, and some expanded steel. I am not sure if a piece of diamond plate that covers the whole board, pieces of expanded steel in strips spaced out, or thicker strips of sheet steel spaced out would be better for traction and perhaps strength. Also, I am not sure the best way to secure the steel to the boards. Any advice is appreciated!
Truck bed loading ramps
- Thread starter Westcreek
- Start date
kerrynzl
Well-known member
Don't use Angle , but use thinner wall square tubing instead [the weight is similar but tubing is stronger]
I build 7'6" long ramps for my trailer. [I needed low approach angle for a race car]
I used 3 lengths of 40mm square x 3mm wall [1-1/2"sq x 1/8"wall] pieces lengthways on each ramp [NOT LADDER DESIGN]
This gives me 6 x vertical walls for beaming strength vs 4 for conventional ladder design.
Both types used almost identical length of steel.
Here is the underside [the trailer is constructed upside-down]
For the surface I glued aluminium diamond plate to the steel [the layer of glue between them prevents galvanic reaction]
Here is the ramp installed on the trailer [the stands are to limit the tilt angle of my trailer and not needed in normal ramps]
I build 7'6" long ramps for my trailer. [I needed low approach angle for a race car]
I used 3 lengths of 40mm square x 3mm wall [1-1/2"sq x 1/8"wall] pieces lengthways on each ramp [NOT LADDER DESIGN]
This gives me 6 x vertical walls for beaming strength vs 4 for conventional ladder design.
Both types used almost identical length of steel.
Here is the underside [the trailer is constructed upside-down]
For the surface I glued aluminium diamond plate to the steel [the layer of glue between them prevents galvanic reaction]
Here is the ramp installed on the trailer [the stands are to limit the tilt angle of my trailer and not needed in normal ramps]
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
HF has many to choose from. I bought an aluminum 6' set. Worth the $$ ! (I would not trust the 1250 lb rating !)
Buy some cheap pulleys, ropes and at least one ratchet pulley. Loading is a breeze. I have not figured out how to UNLOAD heavy items (portable compressor, 5000w generator) in a CONTROLLED manner.
I think you could buy 2 sets and link them together using 1-1/2"x1/8" steel flat bar, at least 4' long, bolted to both sides of each ramp.
Buy some cheap pulleys, ropes and at least one ratchet pulley. Loading is a breeze. I have not figured out how to UNLOAD heavy items (portable compressor, 5000w generator) in a CONTROLLED manner.
I think you could buy 2 sets and link them together using 1-1/2"x1/8" steel flat bar, at least 4' long, bolted to both sides of each ramp.
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1wook
Active member
some deflection is normal, but if whatever your loading is causing 2x10's to deflect too much you probably need to pay the cash for some metal ramps. And by the time you get done adding all the extra weight to them you won't want to ever lift them.
But if you really want to keep adding to the boards then go with option 2 for the angle iron and taper the ends so they don't gouge up everything. While option 1 seems great, attaching the angle iron to the edge of the board will more than likely cause it to crack and split off.
As far as traction, buy a roll of grip tape and put it on the entire length of the board. Don't intermittently space traction aids on the ramps, that's a great way to cause whatever you're loading to slip of sideways.
But if you really want to keep adding to the boards then go with option 2 for the angle iron and taper the ends so they don't gouge up everything. While option 1 seems great, attaching the angle iron to the edge of the board will more than likely cause it to crack and split off.
As far as traction, buy a roll of grip tape and put it on the entire length of the board. Don't intermittently space traction aids on the ramps, that's a great way to cause whatever you're loading to slip of sideways.
Packard V8
Well-known member
After more than fifty years of trying to get stuff up, in, out and down, while truck beds were getting taller every year, I realized I was endangering my life trying to back a zero turn mower down ramps.
I finally bought a truck with a liftgate. When I brought it home, my wife said, "That's really ugly." I told her I'd go to Spaldings and get a tailgate and rear bumper. However, after using the liftgate, it's staying and whether she does is negotiable. Now, I'm of the firm opinion, a work truck without a liftgate is just an expensive, awkward SUV.
With the liftgate, by myself I can load and unload engines which three strong guys couldn't handle. Motorcycles, rototiller, snowblower, air compressors, are piece of cake. To load the ZT mower, I back the rear wheels onto the lift gate, remove the suitcase front axle weight; with someone to operate the lift switch, I pick up the front end and zip/pop it's in the truck bed. Coming down, same-same.
jack vines,
I finally bought a truck with a liftgate. When I brought it home, my wife said, "That's really ugly." I told her I'd go to Spaldings and get a tailgate and rear bumper. However, after using the liftgate, it's staying and whether she does is negotiable. Now, I'm of the firm opinion, a work truck without a liftgate is just an expensive, awkward SUV.
With the liftgate, by myself I can load and unload engines which three strong guys couldn't handle. Motorcycles, rototiller, snowblower, air compressors, are piece of cake. To load the ZT mower, I back the rear wheels onto the lift gate, remove the suitcase front axle weight; with someone to operate the lift switch, I pick up the front end and zip/pop it's in the truck bed. Coming down, same-same.
jack vines,
The ramps deflected only a bit but that was from me standing on them so that’s where the weight came from
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
zkdiesel
Well-known member
My tandem axle rollback has tromped the lift gate truck by a lot recently
habroe freight is ok, friend had to beef them up. i use these, but im only loading a 500lb atv.
Farmall450
Well-known member
I think I'm close to this point too. SCLB w/ a plow and liftgate. I have everything but the liftgate currently.
To be fair, I would just use a utility trailer for a lawnmower.
Farmall450
Well-known member
CDL tho
zkdiesel
Well-known member
I got all the cdl and all the letters that go behind it!
Actually most single axle rollbacks fall into a class c lisc. But I need a heavier truck
tjansson
Well-known member
Utilizing what you have, putting the angle iron on the bottom face of the 2x10s, centered (if you are adding 1 length per ramp), would be most effective at increasing stiffness. I would probably buy some 1.5" Simpson Strong tie SD screws, drill and screw the angle to the board 12" OC.
For grip, I would buy some grip tape and stick it on. The steel diamond plate will be slippery. I like the strip idea, but it will add alot of weight and not increase the stiffness of the ramp at all. Amazon has a roll of 8" wide grip tape for $20. I like my slippery ramps, though, I can drag stuff up them.
The metal ramps with the s-curve in them are pretty nice though.
For grip, I would buy some grip tape and stick it on. The steel diamond plate will be slippery. I like the strip idea, but it will add alot of weight and not increase the stiffness of the ramp at all. Amazon has a roll of 8" wide grip tape for $20. I like my slippery ramps, though, I can drag stuff up them.
The metal ramps with the s-curve in them are pretty nice though.
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ericm
Well-known member
They're great if you're loading something with not a huge amount of ground clearance like a street motorcycle. Otherwise you may be looking for curbs to unload onto or dips to put the trucks wheels in.