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Fuses for Fluke 87V

HomeTheaterMan

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It appears I need new fuses for the amp circuits on my Fluke 87v. Looking around online it seems like OEM Fluke branded fuses are extremely expensive. While most aftermarket ones are about 1/10th of the price. That's quite the price difference. Are the Fluke branded fuses worth the extra money? If not, any recommended brands?

Also, without me pulling it apart, does anyone know what size these 87v's take? When I Google it, multiple sizes come up.
 
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BrandonV

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The Fluke 87V uses two fuses. One fuse is for A range and the other is for the mA/uA range.

Bussmann / Eaton, Littelfuse & Bel Fuse make compatible fuses.

Littelfuse sells them as FLU.440 & FLU011.
Bussmann / Eaton sells them as DMM-B-44/100 & DMM-B-11A.
Bel Fuse sells them as 0ADHC0440-BE & 0ADHC9110-BE.
Fluke sells them (relabeled) as 943121 & 803293.

DO NOT buy them from Amazon, eBay, or the like. These are very commonly counterfeited and I've seen it first hand.

Buy from a Mouser, DigiKey, etc.

Honestly Zoro and Grainger both have each fuse for around $15 each (actually branded in Fluke packaging IIRC) which is where I normally buy them from. If you look up those Fluke part numbers at Mouser & DigiKey they should be as cheap. No joke, from a proper electronics retailer the Fluke fuses are actually cheaper (I assume intentionally) than the actual part from the manufacturer.
 
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HomeTheaterMan

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The Fluke 87V uses two fuses. One fuse is for A range and the other is for the mA/uA range.

Bussmann / Eaton, Littelfuse & Bel Fuse make compatible fuses.

Littelfuse sells them as FLU.440 & FLU011.
Bussmann / Eaton sells them as DMM-B-44/100 & DMM-B-11A.
Bel Fuse sells them as 0ADHC0440-BE & 0ADHC9110-BE.
Fluke sells them (relabeled) as 943121 & 803293.

DO NOT buy them from Amazon, eBay, or the like. These are very commonly counterfeited and I've seen it first hand.

Buy from a Mouser, DigiKey, etc.

Honestly Zoro and Grainger both have each fuse for around $15 each (actually branded in Fluke packaging IIRC) which is where I normally buy them from. If you look up those Fluke part numbers at Mouser & DigiKey they should be as cheap. No joke, from a proper electronics retailer the Fluke fuses are actually cheaper (I assume intentionally) than the actual part from the manufacturer.
Thanks! This whole post is very helpful. Those part numbers aren't what kept coming up in Google results and they are much cheaper. It looks like exactly what I need and Digikey has them pretty cheap. I'm going to order a set of these. Much cheaper than the $45-50 fuses I was seeing in my search. I knew to stay away from Amazon and eBay, because it seems like both are full of counterfeits, but I didn't know which sites were reputable.
 

KnurledNut

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Open it up and see what's in it. You have to anyway. And test them before replacing to eliminate some other issue.
I've bought high quality singles off eBay. New old stock wont hurt anything and can usually be found at a good price.
 

redwrench60

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Do you really need both fuses? The 440mA one is easy to pop if you’re not careful but the 11A is more forgiving. Fluke allows up to 20A for a few seconds without blowing it.

Do you know how to use the on board fuse test feature on Fluke 87’s? Put black lead in COM port and the red lead in the A port with the meter set to read voltage (AC or DC) if the meter makes a rhythmic chirp then the fuse is good. No chirp= blown fuse. Do the same for the mA/uA port.
 

BrandonV

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I've bought high quality singles off eBay. New old stock wont hurt anything and can usually be found at a good price.

The market has been flooded with counterfeit products that closely resemble the originals at this point to where you have to send them back to the manufacturer to be authenticated. If you're mainly working with low-voltage applications (like vehicles), these fuses might still provide some protection for both the meter and yourself. It wouldn't surprise me if many eBay sellers unknowingly source these counterfeit items due to tainted supply chains.


For meters where I'm not dealing with situations that could cause a catastrophic failure, I typically replace the fuse with a non-ceramic fast-blowing fuse of similar amperage but a much lower voltage rating. I then mark the meter accordingly for its intended use.

Chinese-made and fake fuses have heavily infiltrated the market. Back in 2007, Harbor Freight sold fuses that didn't blow, resulting in vehicle wiring fires. Amazon has since become another major distributor of garbage fake or counterfeit products.

Fuses are particularly attractive to counterfeiters because, most of the time, they don't seem to do much. I once bought fuses from a well-known local auto parts store, only to find out they were fake after I did some bench testing because I observed they didn't fit quite as well dimensionally as the old ones. The manufacturer had me return them, and soon after, those fuses were pulled off shelves regionally from what they told me.
 

PCustoms

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I typically replace the fuse with a non-ceramic fast-blowing fuse of similar amperage but a much lower voltage rating. I then mark the meter accordingly for its intended use.

What benefit does this provide?
 

BrandonV

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What benefit does this provide?

If you're working with household or vehicle-level voltages, you can find fuses for just a few cents.

The IEC listing and CAT ratings on a multimeter are compromised if you use a fuse that doesn't match the original, but as long as you compare the time-current characteristics of the original fuse with the replacement, and ensure the interrupting capacity is appropriate for your failure scenario, you'll be fine. For example, the $5 Harbor Freight multimeter lacks adequate protection for commercial or industrial use, but it's perfectly fine for low-voltage, hobbyist work at home (hence why it only goes up to 250V and has no CAT rating at all). I have a Fluke meter for low current measurements on microcontrollers and similar tasks at home, and I don't need to worry about the fuse not being rated for a current overload at 1000V. Now the meter is clearly marked for that and I'd never loan it or let someone borrow it without me being present.

Many companies and job sites no longer allow meters with leads capable of measuring amperage due to liability concerns.
 

PCustoms

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If you're working with household or vehicle-level voltages, you can find fuses for just a few cents.

The IEC listing and CAT ratings on a multimeter are compromised if you use a fuse that doesn't match the original, but as long as you compare the time-current characteristics of the original fuse with the replacement, and ensure the interrupting capacity is appropriate for your failure scenario, you'll be fine. For example, the $5 Harbor Freight multimeter lacks adequate protection for commercial or industrial use, but it's perfectly fine for low-voltage, hobbyist work at home (hence why it only goes up to 250V and has no CAT rating at all). I have a Fluke meter for low current measurements on microcontrollers and similar tasks at home, and I don't need to worry about the fuse not being rated for a current overload at 1000V. Now the meter is clearly marked for that and I'd never loan it or let someone borrow it without me being present.

Many companies and job sites no longer allow meters with leads capable of measuring amperage due to liability concerns.

So to save a few bucks in the proper rated fuse you carry multiple meters.

Got it.
 

BrandonV

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So to save a few bucks in the proper rated fuse you carry multiple meters.

Got it.

I mean I have around 100 multimeters at home right now. :LOL:

I hate to break it to people but there are boatloads of multimeters in the store right now and online and some recommended on here that do the exact same thing and violate their CAT rating.
 
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PCustoms

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I mean I have around 100 multimeters at home right now. :LOL:

I hate to break it to people but there are boatloads of multimeters in the store right now and online and some recommended on here that do the exact same thing and violate their CAT rating.
Damn that's a lot!

I have 2, and as you mentioned home gamers are probably fine on lower rated fuses. At work, especially at the old job, everything has to have proper ratings.
 

BrandonV

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Damn that's a lot!

I have 2, and as you mentioned home gamers are probably fine on lower rated fuses. At work, especially at the old job, everything has to have proper ratings.

Yup.

I would never recommend anyone use a multimeter without being fully aware of the consequences. What I always stress (and I'm not just a fan of Fluke) is the importance of ensuring that the multimeter is certified by a third-party agency like UL, CSA, or TÜV. There are some other brands out there like Hioki which do everything in house but they're honestly the only exception to the rule I can think of.

Many people mistakenly believe that the CAT II label on a Harbor Freight multimeter actually means something, but it doesn't. If the meter isn't certified by an independent agency, there's a good chance the manufacturer did the CAT rating self-certification in-house, which can be risky or downright a lie.

Even the CE (Conformité Européenne) marking is essentially meaningless for multimeters. CE certification (unless the rules have changed) allows manufacturers to self-certify their products, which again means nothing. On the other hand, UL, CSA, and TÜV conduct real-world testing to ensure the product meets the claimed CAT rating.

Just a few examples off the top of my head: the Extech EX330 uses glass fuses rated for 250V with no warning, and the Ideal 61-342 does something similar, as do a few UNI-T models. I was honestly surprised to see Extech and Ideal using these designs, but much of this equipment is often just rebranded from overseas manufacturers who don’t prioritize safety or may even change parts during production.

If you're frequently measuring line voltage or higher, I strongly recommend using a multimeter that has been certified by a third-party agency.
 

Rinspeed

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It appears I need new fuses for the amp circuits on my Fluke 87v. Looking around online it seems like OEM Fluke branded fuses are extremely expensive. While most aftermarket ones are about 1/10th of the price. That's quite the price difference. Are the Fluke branded fuses worth the extra money? If not, any recommended brands?

Also, without me pulling it apart, does anyone know what size these 87v's take? When I Google it, multiple sizes come up.




I'll take a look and if I have them I will just send them to you.
 

redwrench60

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Do you know what you did to blow both fuses? Try and measure voltage through the Amp ports? Both blown mysteriously would be worrisome unless you maybe lent it to someone or it is a community meter with lots of users.
 

KnurledNut

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The market has been flooded with counterfeit products that closely resemble the originals at this point to where you have to send them back to the manufacturer to be authenticated. If you're mainly working with low-voltage applications (like vehicles), these fuses might still provide some protection for both the meter and yourself. It wouldn't surprise me if many eBay sellers unknowingly source these counterfeit items due to tainted supply chains.


For meters where I'm not dealing with situations that could cause a catastrophic failure, I typically replace the fuse with a non-ceramic fast-blowing fuse of similar amperage but a much lower voltage rating. I then mark the meter accordingly for its intended use.

Chinese-made and fake fuses have heavily infiltrated the market. Back in 2007, Harbor Freight sold fuses that didn't blow, resulting in vehicle wiring fires. Amazon has since become another major distributor of garbage fake or counterfeit products.

Fuses are particularly attractive to counterfeiters because, most of the time, they don't seem to do much. I once bought fuses from a well-known local auto parts store, only to find out they were fake after I did some bench testing because I observed they didn't fit quite as well dimensionally as the old ones. The manufacturer had me return them, and soon after, those fuses were pulled off shelves regionally from what they told me.
Good warning.
I have heard about these and avoid any that look new with multiple available.
Like I mentioned, I bought ones that looked to be pretty old stock in a single quantity and have not had any issues.
Thanks for all the info.
 

no704

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Hmm, just replaced mine with some off of Amazon and got some spares. Maybe I’ll try blowing a set of spares.
 

tool_scrounge

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Thanks! This whole post is very helpful. Those part numbers aren't what kept coming up in Google results and they are much cheaper. It looks like exactly what I need and Digikey has them pretty cheap. I'm going to order a set of these. Much cheaper than the $45-50 fuses I was seeing in my search. I knew to stay away from Amazon and eBay, because it seems like both are full of counterfeits, but I didn't know which sites were reputable.

If you are not in a rush, you can download the Digikey mail order form and get free shipping in the US with prepay by check or money order. No minimum purchase too.

 

BrandonV

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Hmm, just replaced mine with some off of Amazon and got some spares. Maybe I’ll try blowing a set of spares.

If you're ever bored, testing fuses from Amazon can actually be somewhat interesting.

I had a bunch of 1A generic automotive blade fuses (can't remember the exact format), but none of them blew, even at much higher currents.
 
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HomeTheaterMan

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Do you know what you did to blow both fuses? Try and measure voltage through the Amp ports? Both blown mysteriously would be worrisome unless you maybe lent it to someone or it is a community meter with lots of users.
I don't. I bought this meter used off of eBay several years ago. I've only tried to use the amp ports a few times and always had trouble. So I suspect they were blown before I ever got it. I use it for voltage 99% of the time, so it hasn't been a huge issue until now. I'm hoping there isn't anything else going on with it.
 

redwrench60

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I don't. I bought this meter used off of eBay several years ago. I've only tried to use the amp ports a few times and always had trouble. So I suspect they were blown before I ever got it. I use it for voltage 99% of the time, so it hasn't been a huge issue until now. I'm hoping there isn't anything else going on with it.
Ahhh I see, that explains it. Not knowing the history, they could be blown or even missing completely. I’d open it up and see if they’re even there.
 
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