I came across a thread on another forum about mixing 50/50 beeswax and vaseline for a rust preventative to use on firearms. Last Amazon order I included a 16oz block of beeswax so I'm going to give it a shot. Main reason is long term storage of firearms because I have a bunch but depending on how it works I will probably use some on any carbon steel tools I own. Just wondering if any of you have tried such a thing.
Beeswax And Vaseline for Rust Preventative
- Thread starter Rinspeed
- Start date
You're on the right path. The British Museum and a lot of museums now just use something like Renaissance Wax to coat objects to prevent them from corroding. If you read the article, "beeswax and carnauba wax either contained acids or became acidic over time."
I'd just use that. If it's good enough for some ancient sword, probably good enough for a firearm.
en.wikipedia.org
I'd just use that. If it's good enough for some ancient sword, probably good enough for a firearm.
Renaissance Wax - Wikipedia
Kaervak
Well-known member
Get yourself some Cortec VCI paper, must better solution. The brake rotors for our squads at work come wrapped in large sheets of it to prevent rusting. They work very well and are pretty inexpensive.
People have been putting wax on firearms for 50-60 years or longer, along with many other fine goods. All the Vaseline does is thin the wax out a bit. How would that be an absolute mess.
If it's such a no brainer and everyone does it, then why do you need to ask here?
To me, it sounds like a potential gloppy mess that will dry out and gum up and action. Light oils and dry air are so much easier, so despite 60 years of beeswax/Vaseline on guns I'll stick with oil.
I've done this with several different concoctions. I melted beeswax in mineral spirits to make my own paste wax.
Vaseline on its own is an outstanding rust preventative.
Beeswax is a SOFT wax. Automotive waxes usually contain some amount of carnauba, which is VERY hard, like unspreadable. I tried mixing beeswax and carnauba flakes to to make a more durable non-sticky paste wax. I also tried adding color - dry earth pigments. This is trick I learned at my local art museum.
Here's my advice: For something like a firearm, I think a thin film of oil is the right start. For long term storage, vaseline is like cosmoline. As long as the guns don't get too warm, vaseline will be fine. For any gun you handle, wax is a really smart approach to protect steel. But you don't need to mix your own. Any decent automotive paste wax will be just as effective and probably a little better than beeswax. Boeshield is another option.
Brownells did tests a few years back of different rust preventatives. WD-40 and Vaseline both worked pretty well (and was controversial)
Dave455
Well-known member
Yes, very old recipe, and works very well.
As AE Adam says, you need to start with a thin film of oil, then mix the Vaseline (or any petroleum jelly) and beeswax in a pot, and warm them up.
Dip the oiled whatever in the mixture and let it cool.
Seals the oil in and is very durable. Used by the British Ministry of Supply years back, and the War Dept before that. I’ve unsealed spares after half a century of storage (probably more) that were like new!
Would I use it on a complete firearm? To be honest, probably not. For preserving spare parts, it’s great.
Is it any better than the gel coatings you get on things like milling cutters, probably not.
As AE Adam says, you need to start with a thin film of oil, then mix the Vaseline (or any petroleum jelly) and beeswax in a pot, and warm them up.
Dip the oiled whatever in the mixture and let it cool.
Seals the oil in and is very durable. Used by the British Ministry of Supply years back, and the War Dept before that. I’ve unsealed spares after half a century of storage (probably more) that were like new!
Would I use it on a complete firearm? To be honest, probably not. For preserving spare parts, it’s great.
Is it any better than the gel coatings you get on things like milling cutters, probably not.
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I don't know the answer to this but suspect the vasoline might not be best choice for wood stocks, plastic and/or rubber components found on many firearms. Also would think the greasy residue would attract dust and other contamination. I wouldn't use it personally.
I tend to just use clp and/or light oil on my guns and have not had any issues with rust. Ive tried some of the more modern water-based products such as Frog Lube and they seem to work well. I forget name of one product that was actually shipped and recommended by manufacturer with a high-end gun it was similar to Frog Lube. Have to pull it out of safe and check. Eesox is supposedly an excellent product that is a non-petroleum based CLP synthetic. I might pick some up and give it a try.
I tend to just use clp and/or light oil on my guns and have not had any issues with rust. Ive tried some of the more modern water-based products such as Frog Lube and they seem to work well. I forget name of one product that was actually shipped and recommended by manufacturer with a high-end gun it was similar to Frog Lube. Have to pull it out of safe and check. Eesox is supposedly an excellent product that is a non-petroleum based CLP synthetic. I might pick some up and give it a try.
Sorry but that is a very weird response and makes me think you know less about firearms than you do about reading comprehension. Not a single post in this thread mentioned anything about "everyone" is using mixture of Beeswax and Vaseline for rust prevention, it wasn't even implied that it would be a substitute for lubrication. I was simply asking if anyone had mixed something up similar.
right. Some perspective- revolutionary war soldiers used oil and beeswax to protect their barrels and stocks. You can rub beeswax directly on wood (or metal) to waterproof it. They also used brick dust and oil to clean and polish metals. European blacksmiths at least, have been using linseed oil and beeswax as a preservative for at least 1000 years.
Gun stuff is like so many other markets where people market run of the mill materials as “special gun materials”. For Example, there is no such material as CLP. It says that on the bottle, but it’s not descriptive of the material. The 3 in 3 in 1 oil referred to CLP (cleans lubricates protects). I don’t know what is in Break free CLP”. People say it’s what was issued to our troops in the sandbox and I’m sure that helps sales.”Specially formulated for M4 rifles” I’m sure.
I never made it to Afghanistan. I almost went as a field service rep. My friends told me they used whatever they had, but an awful lot of ovencleaner and wd-40 was used, especially on 240, and 249 barrels.
Its a good question and a good bunch of responses.
High level: whoever mentioned attracting dust etc was spot on. I think the key is simply to produce a barrier that prevents dirty water from condensing on your metal. Vaseline inside Saran Wrap would probably work great. I’ve done that with old woodworking tools. Whatever you apply, you want it to stay there. If you are putting it anywhere there is dust, including a foam lined pelican case, you probably would be well served wrapping it. I use that vapor paper in my machine shop (along with Vaseline). That’s something else to think about.
PMD1966
Well-known member
Cosmoline has worked well for years.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
I've been using this stuff for years! Great metal, leather and wood preservative. Goes on very thin and buffs out matte (unless you want to really work it to a gloss), so looks natural. On wood grips and stocks, it softens just enough with body heat to make a slip-proof grip without leaving fingerprints.You're on the right path. The British Museum and a lot of museums now just use something like Renaissance Wax to coat objects to prevent them from corroding. If you read the article, "beeswax and carnauba wax either contained acids or became acidic over time."
I'd just use that. If it's good enough for some ancient sword, probably good enough for a firearm.
Renaissance Wax - Wikipedia
On wood, I generally apply it over a coat or more of thinned BLO. It's my favorite finish for wood gunstocks and knife grips.
Dixie_Flatline
Well-known member
Have you considered a silicone gun sock for long-term storage? So long as you don't have humidity/moisture issues in your storage location this should be more than adequate if you give it a wipe-down before putting it into the sock.
yhprum
Well-known member
How about applying them with one of the spray on preservatives and vacuum packing them in a bag (Think food saver)and maybe with a desiccant pack inside.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
If you're going to use wax Johnson's Paste Wax is what woodworkers use on cutting boards and works well. It's also proven to work on woodworking tools having steel or cast iron tables like tablesaws, bandsaws, jointers etc. What I like about it is that it's not too hard like some automotive paste waxes are.
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
Sadly, Johnson's Paste Wax was discontinued at the end of 2021
dnschmidt
Well-known member
Minwax, another RPM company as are Mohawk and Behlen makes what amounts to the same product. https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-785004444-Finishing-1-Pound-Natural/dp/B000LNOZAW?tag=atomicindus08-20
RTM
Well-known member
But sadly, about 3x the price of Johnson’s when you could get them both. And theirs was at every grocery store in town.
Cosmoline is nothing more than a less refined cheaper version of Vaseline. I think for this discussion, they are interchangeable. Cosmoline is a little stiffer, a little tackier, I think a little harder to remove. In terms of rust prevention, my sense is no difference.
Where are you storing your guns? I've got an 83-year-old pistol that doesn't have rust- it survived WWII just fine. I can't remember what's on it, but nothing special, but it's stored in a climate-controlled house. If you were living in a cabin in remote Alaska, then beeswax and vaseline would be fine. Otherwise, there are probably a thousand better options in civilization.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Burying a cache for the End Times?