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What size bits do Snap On gold torx bits use and can you use them on cheaper socket bit holders?

mikey03

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I need to improve my torx male bit tools. I keep hearing how amazing the gold bit snap on ones are. I’m wondering what sizes the bits are since there sold separate for about 14 bucks each.

trying to score the good bits but save money and wondering if they’d fit some other socket bit holder from anywhere else. Maybe the t15 t20 t25 in 1/4 drive are all the same size? And maybe the t27 to t55 are all the same size? Those use 3/8 drive

or if the snap on sockets are needed or much better to use how hard is it to swap the bits? Just a punch and hammer? im not a pro maybe I can buy one socket of each drive size and then spare bits and change them out as I need them for any given project. I’m sure it won’t be fun but dropping $350 with tax on a new set is alot and there’s other tools I need more. So hoping to do like 150 or so in bits and get the same quality even if it means effort of swapping around
 
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Wamsutta

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I was looking for the shortest T27 bit socket I could find. Turns out, KOKEN had it. I'm impressed by the quality. Very sharp Torx points.
 

Marv's Shop

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Looks like the individual heavy duty removal bits that are sold separately are made to be put into their respective Snap-On socket. Searching the part # for the bit in Snap-on's catalog implies to me that the bit is made for that socket. They don't specify a standard 1/4" or 5/16" hex shank

If you're looking for the gold standard I'd check out the MAC RBRT bit set. Part # SBDB77RBRT has about everything you could want. They're all 1/4" hex shank.

https://www.mactools.com/products/sbdb77rbrt
 

AEAdam

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The gold bit set from Snap On is literally the gold standard. Here’s my advice:

If you don’t have any torx bit sockets, find a worn set on ebay, then replace whatever pieces are missing or worn with new. Chances are, we are all doing the same work. So when you buy any set second hand, the worn or missing one is the one you will also need the most and push the hardest. So just replace that one with new. Now you have a complete set, with the individual pieces you’ll use the most, new with warrantees.

And don‘t tell anyone else about this! On eBay, a decent set might be (just for discussion) $100. That same set missing a $40 MSRP bit socket, is sometimes $25. eBay buyers want complete sets, all members in good condition. With damage or missing parts, the sets may bring very little money. Same with ratchets. A ratchet with a dog **** handle can be pretty cheap. Buy it, replace the handle, rebuild the head, and you’ve got a ratchet that looks and feels new for cheap.

If you already have a set of bit sockets you like, I’d simply switch out the worn or twisted ones with the heavy duty Snappies. I wouldn’t upgrade for the sake of it. My only hesitation with this last piece of advice is, first time you fail one, you’ll wish you had paid $1000 for the best torx bit sockets ever made. Extracting cap head screws *****.

When you look in my toolbox, there are a lot of very nice bit sockets. They are there for a reason. I feel like German cars were using cap head screws before anyone else (1980s?) I learned some tough lessons after hitting Allen wrenches with hammers and other dumb things. And it wasn’t 1 or 2 jobs. So I started throwing money at bit sockets and I’m not sorry I did it. That’s why I have the tools I have now.

Every one of these Snap On socket sets has a story of something I screwed up, a craftsman socket I broke, some job that went sideways on me. I guess that’s why I sometimes say the things I do about tools. I didn’t start out with Snap On. I started with the most miserable Taiwan tools, back when Japan made bad cars and Sears didn’t sell metric tools. I write hoping you don’t have to learn the tough lessons I learned.

Seriously, I think my wife has stories of jobs that I’ve struggled with. Where she probably still wonders why her well to do engineer, level headed husband was ready to throw a hissy fit in the garage and has spent an entire Saturday working on a car when literally no one she knows would do that. I talk often about the money I‘ve saved and the cars I’ve gotten to drive. But we don’t often talk about how hard fixing cars can be. My point: Don’t cheap out on tools. Give your wife one less story to tell about her stupid husband.


C9A79781-D6F4-44DC-AA40-AD197D55EEDE.jpeg
 
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Pinne

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Oct 8, 2024
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AEAdam's advice is excellent - the Snap On Torx bit sockets are really nice.

The issue with buying a bunch of bits and trying to press them in and out is that you're going to damage your tools / wear them out. And it's also just a ridiculous waste of time to do. The shank sizes are not all shared - many are 1/4" shank, some are different. But used Torx tools have very little resale value compared with something like ratchets or chrome sockets - so it's not hard to pick up a used set and come out ahead.

For metric hex, you can press the bits into their corresponding sized sockets but the Torx is not the same deal.

I'd also throw out a mention for Gripedge's tools. Mac's RBRT is made in Taiwan so I don't see any reason to spend more versus buying the Gripedge (which is equivalent or even the OE for Mac according to some). These are very slick for removing fasteners that other people have jammed low quality Torx and hex tools into before you.
 

Buckgnarly

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Be aware that the gold are NOT normal bits. They are tapered and do not fit as well on new/good/some fasteners. They are more like the RBRT ones, which also work VERY well for crappy fasteners.
On new stuff I run the normal gray snap on, the golds only get used when needed.
 

B_Bimmer

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It's not often I agree with an engineer, but that's some solid advise and a beautiful drawer of bit sockets. I am curious about the flex socket torx, good contact is so important with any bit socket that an extra joint seems problematic.
 

Steve_P

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For home use, the sets by Vim or Capri are the way to go IMO. Just buy a bunch of spare bits in the smaller sizes from Wiha, or your choice, and self-warranty as needed by replacing the bits. If you have a tool truck, then get whatever they sell as you'll eventually break or twist them, especially the smaller sizes.
 

Steve_P

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Tekton for lifetime easy warranty. Haven't had to warranty a single one in the several years of occasional use.

I'm a Tekton fan, and I have some of their bit sockets, but the issue with them is the way they build their sets. You buy a 1/4 drive set that has big sizes with "step up" bit sizes, you buy a half inch drive set with tiny sizes you will never use. Yes, you can buy singles, but you can just buy a Capri set, or even a Neiko set, and they switch the drive size at the appropriate bit size.

$57, all three drive sizes, and it's in a case.

 

Pinne

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For anyone suggesting other brands like Tekton, Capri, etc - have you used Snap On's Torx bits? Either the black or gold ones.

Not that I have anything against other brands, I just haven't used them and am genuinely curious how comparable they are. I find that when I'm dealing with Torx fasteners they're often already slightly damaged or are a lower quality fastener than I'd like and are more susceptible to damage than hex fasteners. I've found that it's one area where I really don't want to skip out on the tools as every advantage seems to matter.
 

nicks78camaro

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I'm a Tekton fan, and I have some of their bit sockets, but the issue with them is the way they build their sets. You buy a 1/4 drive set that has big sizes with "step up" bit sizes, you buy a half inch drive set with tiny sizes you will never use. Yes, you can buy singles, but you can just buy a Capri set, or even a Neiko set, and they switch the drive size at the appropriate bit size.

$57, all three drive sizes, and it's in a case.



True I wish their sets were more customizable to avoid those issues. I don't need a 6-24 wrench set but I want the bigger sizes and the only other option is 8-19
 

Outlier

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I own and have used Snap-On, Matco, and VIM Tools Torx bit sockets for a number of years and I don't find the regular Snap-On Torx bit sockets to be special or any better or worse than those other two brands.

I have not had or used the gold-colored Snap-On Torx bit sockets. If they are anything like the gold-colored hex bit sockets that Snap-On makes, there is something there. The gold-colored hex bit sockets are worth every penny.
 

ChefRex

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It's not often I agree with an engineer, but that's some solid advise and a beautiful drawer of bit sockets. I am curious about the flex socket torx, good contact is so important with any bit socket that an extra joint seems problematic.
It's very problematic, one of my least used tools, I'd be surprised if I filled out both hands with the number of times I've used them and none of those times brought me joy.
 

Ohio Andy

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Looks like the individual heavy duty removal bits that are sold separately are made to be put into their respective Snap-On socket. Searching the part # for the bit in Snap-on's catalog implies to me that the bit is made for that socket. They don't specify a standard 1/4" or 5/16" hex shank

If you're looking for the gold standard I'd check out the MAC RBRT bit set. Part # SBDB77RBRT has about everything you could want. They're all 1/4" hex shank.

https://www.mactools.com/products/sbdb77rbrt
I believe that these are manufactured by grip edge. I can attest that the grip edge work really well. Kimberly pull up the grip edge when another bit has failed.
 

soundjunky

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Is this a discussion about these?

Earlier this year I was on a quest to find a replacement bit for my SO T-50 torx socket after I had two lesser brands break on me.

I couldn’t even find a SO number for a replacement bit - because if it’s better than off-brand chineseium, I’m buying…
 

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soundjunky

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thanks!!
Although I like forums, I generally avoid aps or searching websites for stuff;
I have a printed SO catalog (think: phone book) that I got from one of the local franchisees a while ago, and couldn’t find these.
 

L.Cheapo

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I own and have used Snap-On, Matco, and VIM Tools Torx bit sockets for a number of years and I don't find the regular Snap-On Torx bit sockets to be special or any better or worse than those other two brands.

I have not had or used the gold-colored Snap-On Torx bit sockets. If they are anything like the gold-colored hex bit sockets that Snap-On makes, there is something there. The gold-colored hex bit sockets are worth every penny.
In the Snap On world, gold colored hex bits simply mean they're metric.

In Torx bits, gold color means "Heavy Duty Removal" and are a step above the standard Torx bits for that purpose.
 

dnschmidt

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I don't know how many people know this but there are two types of Torx bits. One is just plane old Torx and the second is call Torx Align. The difference is that the torx has some degree of slop in it to allow you to use it at less than perfect 90 degree alignment to the screw head whereas the Torx Align goes straight into the screw with very little slop. McMaster-Carr carries both types.
 

soundjunky

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@ DNSchmidt - any links or further info?
I’m all ears.

From my observation, these sockets use an oversized bit - they don’t use the same smaller 1/4”(?) base.

After AJHD shared those two part numbers I reached out to the SO truck owner who would service the tire shop and dealership on either side of my employers old building;
I then dug up my 2023(?) SO catalog, and still couldn’t find these parts in it!?
I did find that about a year ago I made notes about one T-50 bit that I found in that catalog as a possible part - but didn’t want to order the part (because of SO pricing) only to find out it wasn’t what I needed.
 

Dave455

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As far as I’m aware, Torx Align is a proprietary bit from Wiha.

I’ve never used them so can’t vouch for them.

The concept seems similar to the Wera “Holding Function” bits, which use a taper to retain the screw on the bit, butbin doing so fit particularly snugly.

I have used the Wera, and they are very good in that regard.
 

KnurledNut

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Torx Align is a registered trademark and property of Camcar (Acument).
This feature is often referred to as wedge torx or just the letter W.
A 2.5-3.5° angle is machined on the tip of the flutes to a specified datum line that corresponds to the fastener size.
As others have mentioned, Snap-on's gold torx bits use this design.
Their inserts used to have a "W" following the part number as is common with wedge bits.
1738332525052.png

I use wedge torx very frequently and its my preference as it eliminates the play common with torx. Having worn out dozens of bits, they are not some mythical unobtanium proprietary steel. What is gained is a greater diameter directly below the engagement point which is where torx bits typically start to fatigue, and thus a little extra meat where it matters.

Standard torx, wedge torx, holding function (Wera) torx:

54298280731_78f0f9f9f1_b.jpg
 

johninct

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Ebay or just buy the Snap-On sizes for the ones you crank on hard the most.
 

dnschmidt

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@ DNSchmidt - any links or further info?
I’m all ears.

From my observation, these sockets use an oversized bit - they don’t use the same smaller 1/4”(?) base.

After AJHD shared those two part numbers I reached out to the SO truck owner who would service the tire shop and dealership on either side of my employers old building;
I then dug up my 2023(?) SO catalog, and still couldn’t find these parts in it!?
I did find that about a year ago I made notes about one T-50 bit that I found in that catalog as a possible part - but didn’t want to order the part (because of SO pricing) only to find out it wasn’t what I needed.
Nut has given a great write-up above. Here's the McMaster-Carr page: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/torx-align-bits/
 

ricleh

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It's not often I agree with an engineer, but that's some solid advise and a beautiful drawer of bit sockets. I am curious about the flex socket torx, good contact is so important with any bit socket that an extra joint seems problematic.
I use both the Snapon and Koken universal torx bits in my 2001 BMW 530i. It is the only possible way to access some of the torx fasteners in the interior of the car. They have worked well for me for this purpose.
 

KnurledNut

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What size bits do Snap-on gold torx bits use and can you use them on cheaper socket bit holders?

This thread is all over the place and I added to that :geek: but to answer your original question:
T15-T40 are 1/4 hex, T45 and T50 are 5/16 hex, and the T55 is 7/16 hex.
Snap-on does a raised dimpled deformation (looks like a little round circle) that retains the bits when pressed in, and that prevents them from being used interchangeably in a bit holder. But I have grinded that off and used as a normal bit.
1738347871635.png
 
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mikey03

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This thread is all over the place and I added to that :geek: but to answer your original question:
T15-T40 are 1/4 hex, T45 and T50 are 5/16 hex, and the T55 is 7/16 hex.
good to know thanks man

Snap-on does a raised dimpled deformation (looks like a little round circle) that retains the bits when pressed in, and that prevents them from being used interchangeably in a bit holder. But I have grinded that off and used as a normal bit.
whats involved in changing the bits? What tools are needed? if I buy some used ones and then buy new tips idk how hard it is
 

L.Cheapo

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good to know thanks man


whats involved in changing the bits? What tools are needed? if I buy some used ones and then buy new tips idk how hard it is
A hammer and a punch through the drive end is how the Snap On man does it on the truck. Then he taps the new one in from the business end with the same hammer.
 
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mikey03

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A hammer and a punch through the drive end is how the Snap On man does it on the truck. Then he taps the new one in from the business end with the same hammer.
How do you brace the socket? Do you put a second regular hex deep socket over the torx but so you can hammer from the back side or how
 

L.Cheapo

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How do you brace the socket? Do you put a second regular hex deep socket over the torx but so you can hammer from the back side or how
The way I've seen it done is he put the bit down between slightly opened jaws of his vise. Then he put a punch through the square drive and gave it a whack with a hammer. The bit hit the floor. Then he closed the vise jaws, put the socket on it with the bit end up, tapped the bit in to get it started, gave it a good hammer wack and it was in.

It's worth noting the old Snap On bits were held in with a small pin, not just pressed in.
 
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