Chisel sharpening recommendations

[Skyman]

Hi, all.

Seeking advice from the woodies here, regarding chisel sharpening tools. Will be a gift for a family member who's a pretty accomplished amateur woodworker.
Poking around on the web, I found these that look like them might be decent candidates:

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

Thoughts? Thumbs-up or -down? Other/better choices?

TIA.

 

[ararat]

Hi, all.

Seeking advice from the woodies here, regarding chisel sharpening tools. Will be a gift for a family member who's a pretty accomplished amateur woodworker.
Poking around on the web, I found these that look like them might be decent candidates:

Amazon.com

Amazon.com

Thoughts? Thumbs-up or -down? Other/better choices?

TIA.

Thumbs up on the cheapo diamond stones, I have them and they work OK. The 200 is very aggressive which is nice if the edge is far from sharp. The angle gage and guide look nice for flat chisels or plane blades. I have the Veritas guide and it is nice, but I just free hand sharpen mostly.

 

[Beerhippie]

The jig is basically the same as I use. As long as you want a square bevel on your blades, it works very well--but ain't gonna work for a skew or gouge.

The stones, 'though--for that style of jig, I'd go with 8" long minimum. The jig itself takes up space on the stone and you won't get much of a stroke with 5" stones.

I second having at least one very coarse stone. My go-to for yard sale chisels and plane irons is a 50/80 grit. Makes the job much faster.

The price on those diamond stones makes me realize what a dinosaur I am. I can recall when industrial-grade diamonds were sold by the gram... at diamond prices.

 

[RTM]

The stones, 'though--for that style of jig, I'd go with 8" long minimum. The jig itself takes up space on the stone and you won't get much of a stroke with 5" stones.

I second having at least one very coarse stone. My go-to for yard sale chisels and plane irons is a 50/80 grit. Makes the job much faster.

I agree with the longer bit for almost any jig.

I got moving in sharpening with sandpaper on glass, so my length is closer to 10” . If you buy a long sheet you can buy roll material, which I have AlZi 50 grit rolled out, great for plane soles, our really fouled chisels.

 

[seber]

I have those diamond plates also. Highly recommended but will not work well with the angle roller. For that I use Japanese water stones. I wouldn't pay new price but I got them super cheap at an estate sale. If I were buying new, I'd see if I could find eight inch diamond.

 

[Firebrick43]

Those, as most cheap diamond stones, have a really short life as the diamonds pop loose from the surface. Also there is no need for so many with a good diamond stone as they are so fast just a coarse and fine stone followed by a diamond paste on a strop is just as good and much quicker.

One inexpensive stone that gets rave reviews on diamond retention and is flat and stiff plate is the sharpal. The 8" length extra inch of width, along with the elevated holder are game changing compared to smaller thin stones.

https://www.amazon.com/SHARPAL-Diamond-Whetstone-Storage-Sharpening/dp/B07GRWN1PV/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I follow up with 5 micron and 2 micron diamond paste on an MDF strop block cut to the same size as the stone to fit in the holder.

I wish I would have done it years ago messing around with 4 or 5 different grits. Took so much time I went to long between sharpening. Now in less than a min I have a chisel to the same degree of sharpness that it used to take probably 10 min with set up. And much better ergonomics to boot.

 

[milkovich]

All I can suggest is what I use. DMT Diasharp plates. I have all 4 grits, but I primarily use the extra coarse and the extra fine. From there, I use a Naniwa 10,000 "super stone" which leaves a mirror finish. I use a cheap eclipse blade guide with a bronze wheel, I need to upgrade that probably to the lie nielsen with the long arms or the veritas jig.

Between sharpenings, I constantly go back to a leather strop (which is probably 3-5k or so with grey compound). You could buy 2 or 3 leather strops, I always have one next to the work.

If he's a woodworker, he'll already have a sharpening system, one or all of these items would thrill me as a gift, they're all actually consumables so if you double up on one he already has, it'd be no big deal. If someone bought me a cheap diamond stone or cheap whetstone, I'd be grateful but I don't think i'd use them.

 

[Kscardsfan]

One of the best trim carpenters I knew would use a fine grit belt sander then strop it. I always worried he was going to kill the temper on them but the work he did indicated otherwise.

 

[dnschmidt]

You actually need both tools. The guide to get the angle right and the stones to do the sharpening. Or, if you're made of money, buy him a Tormek

 

[Beerhippie]

I agree with the longer bit for almost any jig.

I got moving in sharpening with sandpaper on glass, so my length is closer to 10” . If you buy a long sheet you can buy roll material, which I have AlZi 50 grit rolled out, great for plane soles, our really fouled chisels.

The only complaint I have with sandpaper-on-glass (which I use extensively for flattening things) is that you're limited to one direction when sharpening blades--away from the blade. A diamond stone allows one to "scrub", which is very efficient for removing material from those badly fouled chisels and plane irons.

 

[Jgaz]

I use a sharpening guide, most any guide will work but I much prefer one that clamps the blade from the sides.
This is the glass plate I use to sharpen, (course grit showing). PSA (self stick paper) preferred.

I have four progressively fine grits thru 1500 applied to the opposite side.

 

[Jgaz]

The only complaint I have with sandpaper-on-glass (which I use extensively for flattening things) is that you're limited to one direction when sharpening blades--away from the blade. A diamond stone allows one to "scrub", which is very efficient for removing material from those badly fouled chisels and plane irons.

Sir, why do you not sharpen in both direction especially on the courser grits?
I may have been doing it wrong but once I have a bevel established I seem to get good results quickly.
However, I hone in only the one direction.

 

[Beerhippie]

Sir, why do you not sharpen in both direction especially on the courser grits?
I may have been doing it wrong but once I have a bevel established I seem to get good results quickly.
However, I hone in only the one direction.

I've had the blade cut into and through the paper trying to sharpen towards the blade. Not only does it trash the sandpaper, but it trashes the fine edge you just established. Besides, I own dozen or so high-quality diamond, synthetic and natural stones.

YMMV.

 

[Jgaz]

Thank you. Yes I occasionally have that problem but not often enough to change.
I certainly respect your apparent skills and was just curious.
I‘ve always believed that I can learn something from everyone

 

[RTM]

The only complaint I have with sandpaper-on-glass (which I use extensively for flattening things) is that you're limited to one direction when sharpening blades--away from the blade. A diamond stone allows one to "scrub", which is very efficient for removing material from those badly fouled chisels and plane irons.

You are saying sandpaper is unidirectional? Are you gluing it down? Use 3m super 77 spray glue, works fantastic, go any direction you want.

I almost alway push the sharp edge into the paper, hardly ever pull. Usually if I dig in, it’s operator error, not paying attention.

 

[Beerhippie]

I've had the blade cut into and through the paper trying to sharpen towards the blade. Not only does it trash the sandpaper, but it trashes the fine edge you just established. Besides, I own dozen or so high-quality diamond, synthetic and natural stones.

YMMV.

Thinking back, this was sharpening knives on S-O-G. The smaller, curved contact patch of the knife blade may have caused the blade to cut through, where a flat chisel or plane iron wouldn't. I guess that, due to my experience, I only draw cut now and haven't fooled around with pushing again. Once bitten....

Mostly, S-O-G is my go-to for flattening chisel and iron backs and plane soles. 3M Cubitron II mounted to 1/4" plate makes for quick work--my coarse is 36 grit so things get flat fast. I also use the 3M 77 glue.

 

[ricleh]

I've had excellent results with a Worksharp WS3000

 

[Beerhippie]

I don't think anyone has mentioned the time-honored Sharpie Trick!

Use a Sharpie or similar "permanent" marker to cover the part of the blade or iron you're sharpening--your future bevel. You can now easily see the sharpening process and correct for errors by simply looking at the blade.

Same goes for flattening--I draw lines across the surface I'm flattening as it allows me to see my progress. When all the Sharpie is gone, I can move on from flattening to smoothing.

 

[Vinny]

Veritas jig is the best (and I've tried almost all off them). For stones, I use Japanese glass stones (Shapel, I think is the brand). Had them for years, and I use them regularly to sharpen chisels, plane blades, and knives. I used some course sandpaper on a glass plate to flatten them occasionally.

 

[AEAdam]

This is like underwear shopping. What does the family member have? What do they like? It’s perhaps the MOST intimate of woodworking tools.

I would not choose either of the products you linked, tbh. Suggest gift card for LeeValley or Sharpening Supplies .com

If you want to buy a gift, go with something classic & timeless like a translucent white Arkansas stone. If you can find a Ouachita (Washita) stone, that would also be really special. There may be really special water stones that person would appreciate, depending on their traditions.

 

[alinc100]

Veritas jig is the best (and I've tried almost all off them). For stones, I use Japanese glass stones (Shapel, I think is the brand). Had them for years, and I use them regularly to sharpen chisels, plane blades, and knives. I used some course sandpaper on a glass plate to flatten them occasionally.

Shapton is the word/brand I believe you may have. The 'set' linked below is very close to what I have. https://www.amazon.com/SHAPTON-Kuromaku-Ceramic-Whetstone-Shapton/dp/B01FYEYKE8?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Hohn]

Don't ask me, I bought a Tormek T8.

 

[Steve_P]

For wood chisels, yeah, definitely sharpen by hand. But for chisels that you beat to death on steel, I'd be there for a week to sharpen them by hand.

So, who makes something powered that fixes the angle that you can sharpen a "cold chisel" on? Yes, I know, the replies are coming about how you have a laser calibrated eye and do them, and drill bits, on your belt sander to within 1*. Fine, I don't care. Who makes an actual fixture type machine, like the Drill Doctor, or even a fixture, that uses a powered belt or disc for chisels. The Worksharp 3000 seems to be discontinued.

 

[Beerhippie]

For wood chisels, yeah, definitely sharpen by hand. But for chisels that you beat to death on steel, I'd be there for a week to sharpen them by hand.

So, who makes something powered that fixes the angle that you can sharpen a "cold chisel" on? Yes, I know, the replies are coming about how you have a laser calibrated eye and do them, and drill bits, on your belt sander to within 1*. Fine, I don't care. Who makes an actual fixture type machine, like the Drill Doctor, or even a fixture, that uses a powered belt or disc for chisels. The Worksharp 3000 seems to be discontinued.

A tool rest on a bench grinder?

 

[Hohn]

A tool rest on a bench grinder?

You’ll kill the temper with most bench grinders. Even the 1800 rpm grinders are too fast and get the chisel too hot.

 

[AEAdam]

For wood chisels, yeah, definitely sharpen by hand. But for chisels that you beat to death on steel, I'd be there for a week to sharpen them by hand.

So, who makes something powered that fixes the angle that you can sharpen a "cold chisel" on? Yes, I know, the replies are coming about how you have a laser calibrated eye and do them, and drill bits, on your belt sander to within 1*. Fine, I don't care. Who makes an actual fixture type machine, like the Drill Doctor, or even a fixture, that uses a powered belt or disc for chisels. The Worksharp 3000 seems to be discontinued.

A worksharp sorta kinda does it, Steve. I have diamond disks on mine. The root problem with the workshop remains the varying surface feet per minute of the inner diameter vs the outer diameter. They market it like it's good at flattening, and to a certain degree it is. To some extent, every sort of flattening we do as woodworkers is pretty imperfect and problematic.

@Hohn is right about grinders. You can do it, but it takes more skill and more patience than most of us are prepared for. Many of us just jamb the chisels against the wheel, squinting our eyes from the sparks until the corners turn blue, then dip it in the filthy grinder water cup or worse.

 

[Beerhippie]

You’ll kill the temper with most bench grinders. Even the 1800 rpm grinders are too fast and get the chisel too hot.

My bench grinder is 500 rpm. I still keep a dip tray right in front of it and use it frequently. When sharpening on the grinder, I hold the tool with one finger damned near on the edge so I know when it's getting warm.

A cold chisel is pretty much the splitting maul of edged tools. Take care of the temper, but don't obsess about exact angles, etc.

OK, on second thought, the splitting maul is the splitting maul of edged tools....

 

[RTM]

So, who makes something powered that fixes the angle that you can sharpen a "cold chisel" on?

My laser calibrated eye is off these days. I use this for my wood chisels, gouges and plane blades. I imagine a creative soul could modify this to handle the thickness of a cold chisel with longer screws, and something to register the edge against the hex of a cold chisel..

Veritas Mk.II Power Sharpening System - Lee Valley Tools

Discover the Veritas Mk.Ii Power Sharpening System. Buy this product now on our Lee Valley online store.

www.leevalley.com

 

[AEAdam]

My laser calibrated eye is off these days. I use this for my wood chisels, gouges and plane blades. I imagine a creative soul could modify this to handle the thickness of a cold chisel with longer screws, and something to register the edge against the hex of a cold chisel..

Veritas Mk.II Power Sharpening System - Lee Valley Tools

Discover the Veritas Mk.Ii Power Sharpening System. Buy this product now on our Lee Valley online store.

www.leevalley.com

That's basically a Worksharp. I'd buy the LV version in a hot minute. Love Lee Valley.

 

[RTM]

That's basically a Worksharp. I'd buy the LV version in a hot minute. Love Lee Valley.

I like the much larger platen, and working upright. I've flattened block plane soles on mine in the past.

 

[dnschmidt]

Don't ask me, I bought a Tormek T8.

I always suspected that you were a high roller.

 

[ez-duzit]

...a gift for a family member who's a pretty accomplished amateur woodworker...

You're trying to get by too cheaply. If this family member is truly accomplished, he will already have sharpening sorted out.

 

[jayemm]

Why not a gift card from Woodcraft or similar woodworking supply vendor.

 

[Skyman]

Thanks to all for the replies and advice. Much appreciated.