Oh, there’s plenty of stuff I’ll keep (like an obscene number of ratchets), but I’ll never need three worm drive saws, three Milwaukee right angle drills, etc. Once upon a time I had thoughts of running a contracting company again or owning rental properties, but that no longer interests me - I can’t imagine having the time and energy.
Overall good. It was a little off square out of the box but adjusting all three axes is fairly straightforward and it has held square since. The dust collection as designed by Bosch was not good so I bought an aftermarket dust chute from Shop Nation. Seems to be a big improvement.
Easiest way is to put pressure on the lower control arm while it’s on the lift and just take the nut off the lower ball joint, take the bolt out of the lower shock mount, and slowly lower the control arm to release the pressure on the coilover and then remove the nuts on the top. Much harder to do in a driveway though.
If you don’t clear-coat them after they’ll be yellow again in a year or less. Sanding/polishing takes the UV protection coating off so it needs to be restored with some 2K clear.
Could you make a bunch of overlapping cuts with a biscuit cutter? And either use your oscillator where the biscuit cutter can’t get to or perhaps remove the tenon section of the T-slot molding where it is a hassle to cut the slot..Pondering and puttering.
Im coming to the end of the hall cabinets project. I have one last hurdle to clear. Looking for ideas to cut a slot (3/32” x 1/4” deep) in the end of this shelf to install T molding.
The traditional answer is a slot cutting bit in a router, but the cabinet sides are in the way. I can’t get within about 3” to 4” of the ends, depending on which router I use.
I poked around with various saws, none of which are going to work. I considered cutting the slot with a chisel, but I don’t have one that small, and I wasn’t relishing the idea of cutting a 24” slot with one if I did.
Looking at my oscillating tool, the blades are too narrow, and it’s hard to freehand a long straight cut with a blade that’s only 1” wide. I took a couple of old worn blades, and cut one off. They cut easily with shears.
Then a couple of holes and some screws:
The washer is for depth. Crude but effective:
Still hard to guide it straight, but the width and depth work. These blades are worn, with some bent and missing teeth, so I’ll pick up some new ones to repeat this with. I think these were cheap Masterforce from Menards. The nicer Milwaukee and even Bauer blades are thinner, and I actually need the thicker blade for this to work.
To guide the cut, I‘m thinking a sheet metal strip, bent over 90* at a little under 3/8” to centre the cut on the board.
I can’t remove the shelf, though that would make the slot cut a lot easier. It is nailed and glued in to the cabinet.
I may do that at some point. Just wanted better light for now. Drove all the way home from work in the dark with hi beams, and nobody flashed me LOL.
That was a good episode on BFH.
My biscuit joiner is 3mm, so an eighth. With a wood block and a clamp or screws, you can make a biscuit joiner close up real tight.
Watch out for thoughts. They can get you in trouble.
Already there. Got myself some more **** to do.
I thought you were just being a modern, inclusive kind of guy with that bright red nail polishThis was the first time I used these new cutters and they have that fancy little pin to push the plugs out. Or they’re supposed to push them out. The first one wouldn’t come out so I grabbed a screwdriver and went to pop it out. Not quite sure where I went wrong exactly but my thumb ended up a little lighter. Oddly enough it hurt less than the last Lego I stepped on. The rest of the plugs got removed with a needle nose pliers and I didn’t lose any more blood.
Oh boy that’s me to a T. I’m a very accepting, tolerant sort of person. Never judgy or anything else that may hurt some softies feelings. 🫣
That camera from Acura is about $300, yes?
Please can we see the video of cutting the holes? Please, please...Got to play with the Gas ax on some 1-1/4" mild steel plate. Gotta drill a bunch of 1" and 1.25" diameter holes in it now. Fun!
I was thinking just a straight bit in the router and a plywood or 1x<whatever> jig to guide it.
Just catching up and glad this was asked/answered.
