Enclosing 3 Sided Building DIY Question

[LiveWireTester]

Scoured the forum site and Reddit and haven’t seen this discussed before so here it goes:

I have an added on “Lean-To” that has 3 of its 4 sides enclosed (Midwest USA) I want to enclose the 4th side, pour a concrete floor in the current gravel floor place, and make it a controlled space. The rest of the walls are block so I figured it would look best to use block for this wall. I have a concrete floor contractor but I’m debating on building the block wall myself.

The opening is 31’ 4” wide and roughly 14’ tall so my plan was to put 2 - 10’ wide by 12’ tall garage doors in it and a 36” wide 80” tall commercial man door in it.

My plan for the project is:
-pour floor and footer for new wall
-build block wall (vertical rebar every other block(and into footer), grout all block cavities, tie horizontal rebar every 3’ into existing wall on each side, lintel on garage doors and bond beam on man door, and bond beam on top)
My questions to the people of the internet:

- How would you finish the top of the wall to account for existing Roof Joist? Would you use full blocks from top to bottom to match existing walls until you couldn’t and shim PT boards in at top and cover with flashing to hide? I have attached pictures showing how roof joists are sitting on ledger board bolted to existing walls on each side

- Assuming the garage door openings are to be 120” each and the man door block wall opening to be 40”, that leaves me 96” of room for my 4 gaps, I was thinking of making each pillar a block and a half each (going to use 8*16 split face CMUs), does that sound feasible for the area between doors?
-If my pillars won’t be wide enough to support wall, should I do away with man door and make them bigger?

- Does my plan for the structure of the block wall sound good? I know grouting every cell is overkill but it’s minimal added cost on this project. Would you make any tie-ins with rebar to the existing wall on each side?

I have attached images of what currently exists, how the current garage door block walls are built, and a drawing of my planned finished product.


Thank you in advance to your alls input

 

[Hank11]

I’d build the new wall from wood studs. Way easier to fill in that hole and way easier to insulate the wall. Then I‘d continue on around the interior with a stud wall to insulate and cover the entire interior with dry wall.

 

[LiveWireTester]

I’d build the new wall from wood studs. Way easier to fill in that hole and way easier to insulate the wall. Then I‘d continue on around the interior with a stud wall to insulate and cover the entire interior with dry wall.

You don’t think it’d look better to match the other concrete block walls? I thought it would stick out and look weird with a different material for this new wall

 

[nadogail]

Have you discussed this with your Local Authority that has jurisdiction over buildings?

 

[Hank11]

You don’t think it’d look better to match the other concrete block walls? I thought it would stick out and look weird with a different material for this new wall

No, and I think you won’t get the block to match what is there now. And its already got a different look from the main building. And with a bunch of doors across the front there won’t be much wall showing anyway.

 

[LiveWireTester]

Have you discussed this with your Local Authority that has jurisdiction over buildings?

Discussed the requirements for block walls? Yes. They spelled out the minimal load bearing wall rebar and grouting requirements. They provided no insight into how to tie block wall to roof joists

 

[cgrutt]

I think I'd frame that in wood as well. Metal siding (vertical) would tie into existing front just fine IMO.

 

[firebirdparts]

That wall is really just for looks and of course making an enclosure. FWIW. Laying that up to the point where your building is sitting on it would be tricky for sure. You can wedge in wood material better than you can wedge in blocks, so yeah, I would probably do as you mention.

It's impractical to fill these blocks with concrete. I guess you know that. it would sure be nice to take a little piece of the roof off. I guess it'll work out if you have to fill it before the bond beam goes on. Filling the bond beam, maybe use a teaspoon.

I kinda don't like the block-and-a-half wide columns but you could lay up a big pilaster that narrow if you wanted to. This is not an engineer comment, though. It's just a gut comment. My shop has some intensely loaded areas. There's no load here so really I'm sure it's fine.