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Files for sharpening hand saws?

Aaron_W

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Northern California
I've got a few old handsaws, a miter, and a couple of crosscut, 1920s-50s Diston.

I've watched some videos on sharpening, but having trouble finding a variety of triangular files. All I'm finding are in sets with files I don't need.

Any good source for getting a selection of sizes and decent quality.

This is mostly for my own amusement, I have powersaws for efficiency.
 
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finn

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Mar 27, 2005
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The UP, God's country
Not directly related to your question, but I came across what I think is a saw tooth setting tool that was probably from my grandfather, and I have no use for.

PM me if you’re interested in it, and I’ll send it to you, once the snow melts and we return to Mi.
 

RTM

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SF Bay Area
I've got a few old handsaws, a miter, and a couple of crosscut, 1920s-50s Diston.

I've watched some videos on sharpening, but having trouble finding a variety of triangular files. All I'm finding are in sets with files I don't need.

Any good source for getting a selection of sizes and decent quality.

This is mostly for my own amusement, I have powersaws for efficiency.
All the serious WW hand tool stores should have them. Your ace or other big box store might have crappy Nicholson or house brand, don't bother.



LV Website down right now.




https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/CO-SAWFILE.**
 

Wamsutta

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Amarillo, Texas

It's probably going to be a triangular file of some kind. The most important thing to remember is files are designed to cut on the forward stroke. Pulling the file backwards will dull the file teeth. You need to find a local industrial supply to get good files.
 

neophyte

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Pennsylvannia

It's probably going to be a triangular file of some kind. The most important thing to remember is files are designed to cut on the forward stroke. Pulling the file backwards will dull the file teeth. You need to find a local industrial supply to get good files.
The Fireball Tool guy tested this, and found that the backstroke didn’t dull the files.


As for quality files for sharpening, different saws require different shaped files, but s “Three Square” triangular file or triangular “saw file is usually recommended.
Nowadays, buying triangular files from Vallorbe by the dozen, or files made by Tome Feteira in Portugal, or made Japanese made triangular files, might be the best option.
Alternatively, see if you can find a good price on files from India made by JK Files, or one of the other brands under the same company, since this is now the World’s largest file maker, and they purchased the equipment from France’s top file maker (Talabot) when Talabot shut down.
 

JradM

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Alberta
I wonder if diamond abrasive needle files might work better for this. My rationale is that saw blades are hardened steel. Files are harder, so that will work, but it might be easier to remove hardened steel with diamond abrasives.
 

Wamsutta

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The Fireball Tool guy tested this, and found that the backstroke didn’t dull the files.


As for quality files for sharpening, different saws require different shaped files, but s “Three Square” triangular file or triangular “saw file is usually recommended.
Nowadays, buying triangular files from Vallorbe by the dozen, or files made by Tome Feteira in Portugal, or made Japanese made triangular files, might be the best option.
Alternatively, see if you can find a good price on files from India made by JK Files, or one of the other brands under the same company, since this is now the World’s largest file maker, and they purchased the equipment from France’s top file maker (Talabot) when Talabot shut down.

I watched that video. Very painful to watch. I'm not sure I watched the whole thing.

Somebody should tell that guy he'll never get me to change my mind in a million years.
 

RTM

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SF Bay Area
I wonder if diamond abrasive needle files might work better for this. My rationale is that saw blades are hardened steel. Files are harder, so that will work, but it might be easier to remove hardened steel with diamond abrasives.
The Triangle (or three square as noted above) shape is important on vintage hand saws, except the Acme 120, as it files two faces at once. You want a file large enough across each face to be more than 2x your tooth height, you can get three saws sharpened out of 1 file that way. Go too big though, and the radius at the point grows, and gives you a poor tooth shape. This allows you to sharpen one tooth front, and one tooth back in one swipe, preserving the geometry, and reducing work. Of course, the duller the saw is, it may take several swipes to get it sharp.

For a vintage tree felling saw, a Cant file is often called for, and completely different procedures.

Modern saws have the very vertical Japanese style teeth, and many are impulse hardened so they can’t be sharpened. If not impulse hardened, a feather file is the tool of choice here.
 
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Aaron_W

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Northern California
Thank you, I knew some of you would have some sources. Local hardware stores, box stores and Amazon seem to stock the same cheap and basic options.
 
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ecotec

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I watched that video. Very painful to watch. I'm not sure I watched the whole thing.

Somebody should tell that guy he'll never get me to change my mind in a million years.
I got yelled at too many times, when I was young, to change my mind.
 

seber

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Deep East Tx.
I questioned the conventional wisdom of lifting the file on reverse when I was young. Wore out a few files doing informal testing. I could find no difference whether dragging or lifting. Now I just ignore the conventional wisdom and don't worry about it.
 

zimman

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Mar 2, 2014
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Mark Twain National Forest
I've got a few old handsaws, a miter, and a couple of crosscut, 1920s-50s Diston.

I've watched some videos on sharpening, but having trouble finding a variety of triangular files. All I'm finding are in sets with files I don't need.

Any good source for getting a selection of sizes and decent quality.

This is mostly for my own amusement, I have powersaws for efficiency.
Here's a link. Good luck.
Zim
 

dscheidt

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Apr 26, 2017
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What does "impulse" hardened mean?

The teeth are heat treated with something (laser, induction heater) that heats only the teeth, and does it very rapidly. This gets the cuting edges hard, which makes them long lasting, and keeps the rest of the saw stays soft and flexible. It's also fast and cheap. I've got a mass market handsaw in my garage that's seen enough use I'd have sharpened it a couple times if it were a traditional saw, and it's still sharp.

Impluse hardening doesn't usually go very deep, so it's often possible to sharpen these saws with a good file.
 

milkovich

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Oct 15, 2007
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Akron Ohio
Impluse hardening doesn't usually go very deep, so it's often possible to sharpen these saws with a good file.
The issue there is that "hardpoint saws" have a different geometry than the old timey stuff (they're sorta like the japanese pull saws). Personally, all my crosscut panel saws are modern hardpoints as they kick the **** out of my old collector saws (Disstons and Simonds). The only old saws that still beat new disposable saws in my opinion are the BIG (3-5 tpi) rip saws. Plus the handles on a 100 year old saw are ergonomic perfection.
 

Nutria

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Jun 23, 2015
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Eastern Sierra
I hunted yard sales n flea markets for my triangular files and cant file. It wasn't hard to find some decent ones for the handsaws.
I got most of mine that way. I also see boxes of US-made, NOS triangular files on the big auction site, and I may get some of those at some point.
 
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