The VISES of Garage Journal

[RickP330]

Hey all,
Well I got it all done, thanks to you all. Without you guys I would probably would have wound up with a vise from Horrible freight.

$50 on Facebook Market place
$30 1-7/16 1/2" drive socket
$10 cupped wire wheel
$10 spray lube
$17 Evaporust
$16 Rustolium

Result = vise that works smooth as heck. It's a beautiful thing. I know sometimes I might ask basic questions that seem annoying to some but I always learn something valuable from you guys. I forget who (beerhippy?) recommended it but I bought the spray lube. That is the real deal - I never heard of an oil like this.

Thank you all - I've got a real vise now even better than the old one I lost in my travels and it's ready to go to work!
RP

 

[Outlawmws]

Get that sucker bolted down and back in use!

 

[RickP330]

Get that sucker bolted down and back in use!

Will do. This deserves a new top on the workbench. That’s coming up next!!!
RP

 

[KMScott]

Hey all,
Well I got it all done, thanks to you all. Without you guys I would probably would have wound up with a vise from Horrible freight.

$50 on Facebook Market place
$30 1-7/16 1/2" drive socket
$10 cupped wire wheel
$10 spray lube
$17 Evaporust
$16 Rustolium

Result = vise that works smooth as heck. It's a beautiful thing. I know sometimes I might ask basic questions that seem annoying to some but I always learn something valuable from you guys. I forget who (beerhippy?) recommended it but I bought the spray lube. That is the real deal - I never heard of an oil like this.

Thank you all - I've got a real vise now even better than the old one I lost in my travels and it's ready to go to work!
RP

Rick, here is a drawing that might help you finish your Parker lock down.

 

[Tom99]

I suspect the serrated jaw was a replacement. The fit isn't quite on par with the "smooth" one - which is serrated, but in the old style for the 97X series - my 974 is serrated like that.

That makes sense. Thanks for the info.

 

[jawstight]

Sorry, wrong forum.

 

[Eric Brown]

United Hardware & Tool Corp., New York, has some Universal Equalizer vice jaws in it's 1925 catalog. I have two sets. Four inch and five inch. They fit over your vice jaws and have a counterbalance weight on both jaws. Behind the lugs that do the gripping are wedge shaped pieces. When clamping irregular shapes, the wedges allow the grippers to move in and out to match the profile. The screws on the end allow finer adjustments. The jaws are marked with Universal Equalizer, patented Aug. 3, 1915 and Jan 25, 1916 Cin. OH. Have not found either patent yet or information about the company. Trademark looks like a fist holding a big stick inside a circle. They work really well.

 

[TheRealZeus]

 

[TheRealZeus]

Previous inquiry stopped about here.. a business news article, line item number believed to be; “17950 Steele Vs Universial Equalizer Co.”

 

[PghJKB]

Eric
The 1915 patent (#1149037) was granted to Walter S. Duwelis of Cincinnati Ohio

The 1916 patent (#1169533) was granted to same.

There was a third patent also granted to same guy, same place, which I think is more applicable here, # 1397409

Here are the first page of each patent:

1921, 1916, 1915

 

[Eric Brown]

Eric
The 1915 patent (#1149037) was granted to Walter S. Duwelis of Cincinnati Ohio

The 1916 patent (#1169533) was granted to same.

There was a third patent also granted to same guy, same place, which I think is more applicable here, # 1397409

Here are the first page of each patent:

1921, 1916, 1915

Thank you very much. Mine does resemble the third patent the most. Maybe they used the earlier patent dates while their application was being processed. Or, they didn't want to spend the money on a new stamp. Wonder how much WWI effected their business?

Also wonder if someone started making them again how well they might sell?

 

[ararat]

Thank you very much. Mine does resemble the third patent the most. Maybe they used the earlier patent dates while their application was being processed. Or, they didn't want to spend the money on a new stamp. Wonder how much WWI effected their business?

Also wonder if someone started making them again how well they might sell?

Let me know where to pre order. Lol

 

[PghJKB]

Let me know where to pre order. Lol

I will be third in line

JKB

 

[Patrickm82]

4th and I’ll take 2!

 

[Eric Brown]

Here are the three hand vices I use for holding parts on the wire and polishing wheels. L-R: Big one with coarse jaws. 2" wide, 7/8" tall opens to 1 1/2" max. Stubs medium size with fine jaws. 2" wide, 5/8" tall, opens 3/4" max. Bronze with smooth jaws 1 3/8" wide, 3/8" tall, opens 1" max. Only middle one is marked.

 

[Beerhippie]

Here are the three hand vices I use for holding parts on the wire and polishing wheels. L-R: Big one with coarse jaws. 2" wide, 7/8" tall opens to 1 1/2" max. Stubs medium size with fine jaws. 2" wide, 5/8" tall, opens 3/4" max. Bronze with smooth jaws 1 3/8" wide, 3/8" tall, opens 1" max. Only middle one is marked.

Those look preferable to Vise Grips for holding parts on the wheel. I usually just use my fingers--I call it a MAN-o-cure.

 

[Eric Brown]

Those look preferable to Vise Grips for holding parts on the wheel. I usually just use my fingers--I call it a MAN-o-cure.

I find them preferable to trying to hunt down parts that decide to take off. Cement floors. Metal parts usually go at least ten feet. One trick I've learned is to use a punch for cleaning/polishing springs, washers and nuts.

 

[TheRealZeus]

How you use a punch to clean nuts?

 

[Eric Brown]

How you use a punch to clean nuts?

You slide the nut onto the punch using like an inside mandrel. Keeping a thumb on the outside can keep it from rotating.
For the inside where the threads are I either use a Dremel with a end brush or chase it with a tap.

 

[Beerhippie]

You slide the nut onto the punch using like an inside mandrel. Keeping a thumb on the outside can keep it from rotating.
For the inside where the threads are I either use a Dremel with a end brush or chase it with a tap.

Bronze gun bore brushes are perfect for cleaning things like this. I buy them whenever I find them at YS and such.

 

[Beerhippie]

I find them preferable to trying to hunt down parts that decide to take off. Cement floors. Metal parts usually go at least ten feet. One trick I've learned is to use a punch for cleaning/polishing springs, washers and nuts.

I've got one up on you: My cement shop floor has black holes scattered around that **** small parts and tools into an alternate universe.

 

[TheRealZeus]

Can saw-off the finger eyehole of the rounds to desired length, and insert in a drill chuck for threads.. I think that BeerHippie is talking about, too. just mind that twist direction, or you may unravel the tool… as picture; Left to right; Counter clockwise/lefty-loosy, clockwise/righty-tighty, & counter clockwise/lefty-loosy….

and right to left, but that is besides the point… don’t get it twisted. Sorry, hard to disengage pun-mode.

 

[Eric Brown]

Can saw-off the finger eyehole of the rounds to desired length, and insert in a drill chuck for threads.. I think that BeerHippie is talking about, too. just mind that twist direction, or you may unravel the tool… as picture; Left to right; Counter clockwise/lefty-loosy, clockwise/righty-tighty, & counter clockwise/lefty-loosy….

and right to left, but that is besides the point… don’t get it twisted. Sorry, hard to disengage pun-mode.

All good tips. Thanks.

 

[Beerhippie]

Yup.



Gun brushes--if bought in yard-sale-found cleaning kits--even come with nice extensions for cleaning long tubes--like Coleman stove generators. If using the extension, just be sure to run the drill CW--CCW will unscrew the brush, which will then wedge itself to the side, leaving you somewhat screwed.

Mill-Rose brushes are made for prepping copper fittings for sweating. I used to sweat a few dozen to hundred a day, so learned to cut the handles off and mount in a drill:



Neither bore brushes nor Mill-Rose brushes will "shed" if spun CCW. When cleaning threads, I'll run the brush in CW, then back it out CCW.

You may now return to your regularly scheduled Vise thread.

 

[Old Radar]

My Socket Cleaning Kit:

 

[Beerhippie]

My Socket Cleaning Kit:

Did you put a bushing in the driver handle to fit the bore brushes? That would be an excellent tool to have!

 

[ararat]

2" vise from England. Marked 521 on the side of the jaws. I can also read HEFFIEL on the top of the dynamic jaw which I assume is Sheffield.
It looks similar to this John Sorby from the web. I thought it maybe a Woden, but I think it is more likely the sorby or maybe a Marples if the poster is believed.

 

[Old Radar]

Did you put a bushing in the driver handle to fit the bore brushes? That would be an excellent tool to have!

Nope, it's designed that way with a threaded insert in the handle. Picked it up at an estate sale.

 

[Beerhippie]

2" vise from England. Marked 521 on the side of the jaws. I can also read HEFFIEL on the top of the dynamic jaw which I assume is Sheffield.
It looks similar to this John Sorby from the web. I thought it maybe a Woden, but I think it is more likely the sorby or maybe a Marples if the poster is believed.

Nice!

I'm pretty sure the #s on the sides are assembly #s. A lot of older vises (and other stuff) were individually-fitted, so the dynamic would be fitted to the static, rather than interchangeable between vises.

 

[Beerhippie]

Nope, it's designed that way with a threaded insert in the handle. Picked it up at an estate sale.

Now I have to find one.... Damned GJ!

 

[dannyr]

2" vise from England. Marked 521 on the side of the jaws. I can also read HEFFIEL on the top of the dynamic jaw which I assume is Sheffield.
It looks similar to this John Sorby from the web. I thought it maybe a Woden, but I think it is more likely the sorby or maybe a Marples if the poster is believed.

interesting - never seen the Sheffield just stamped like that -- a fairly crude vise/vice - rough casting and crudely cut jaw faces -- but similar tommy bar boss to the Marples/Sorby

 

[ararat]

similar one in the 1940 Marples catalog. Looks like a sticker for the logo on the dynamic jaw. It weighs 3 lbs 3 oz.

Unbreakable, which is nice.

 

[ararat]

interesting - never seen the Sheffield just stamped like that -- a fairly crude vise/vice - rough casting and crudely cut jaw faces -- but similar tommy bar boss to the Marples/Sorby

It has been scratched up on the top where the stamp is. It looks like there may have been a logo next to the "Sheffield" that has been obscured by scratches. I can't tell for sure even under the magnifier.

Edit: I think the jaw texture was filed in by a user sometime.

 

[Beerhippie]

Now I have to find one.... Damned GJ!

Found one:



or rather, I made one. I used an old handle from an Allen wrench we never use and a #8-32 threaded insert for wood. I heated the insert and screwed it in and it works just fine.

 

[Beerhippie]

similar one in the 1940 Marples catalog. Looks like a sticker for the logo on the dynamic jaw. It weighs 3 lbs 3 oz.

Unbreakable, which is nice.

Looks like "Breakable" to me! Honest advertising--anything can be broken.

 

[Outlawmws]

Now I have to find one.... Damned GJ!

OR can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that is a handle for the RCBS primer pocket cleaner brushes? reloading tools.

 

[Outlawmws]

Found one:

That works too!

 

[TheRealZeus]

OR can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that is a handle for the RCBS primer pocket cleaner brushes? reloading tools.

Flash hole deburring tool.

 

[Outlawmws]

Flash hole deburring tool.

A bit for that might work also but I have one for primer pockets from about 60 years ago, when my dad started reloading.

 

[Mr. Wonderful]

I picked up this crusty Chicago Morgan 288-1/2. I thought it was a Parker when I responded to the ad. It’s quite a bit heavier than I thought at 5” and 107 lbs. I never see this style with the pipe jaws intact so I had to have it. The stand is nothing spectacular. The seller also had a pretty nice Hollands 14-1/2.