Is it possible to install outlets into trailer?

[buceesguy]

Hello everybody,

I work with a marching band and we use a semi-truck so I'm not too experienced when it comes to this stuff. We hire an independent company to tow the trailer to our competitions and when it's not in use it's just in a parking lot. I've tried doing some research on how to install outlets that would power some LED lights that would light up the inside of the trailer, but everything I found had to use an inverter that connected straight to the truck's battery. So I was wondering if anyone knew how to set up a system where I could set up some outlets that run off of the 7-pin connector already on the trailer or if any other option is out there. Let me know if I'm missing anything and thanks to all in advance.

 

[wssix99]

Your problem is that the trailer wiring is light and can only carry a few amps. I have some accessories on my 7 pin, but they are light marker lights.

You'd have to check the specs of the lights you are interested in and then compare to the 7 pin fuses.

 

[Fortress67]

For my shed with no electric. I used a Solar light with a remote panel, one of the spot lights that was also motion activated.
Mounted the light inside and the charging Panel outside. Now whenever i open the shed door, at night, the light comes on.

 

[mikedodge]

If you are realistic with the lights you'll be OK. Look for 12V rv type ones that youd probably have to mount in place. You can't throw a 120V work light at it even with an inverter of some sort and expect it to work.

 

[niget2002]

How much light do you need? There's lots of 12v LED light strips. RV lights, as mentioned, or even various boat lights.

Would you have room to mount a 12v car battery somewhere in the trailer? You could hook the 12v lights up to the battery for additional load capacity. The truck would charge the battery over the 7-pin connector.

Or, you could make the whole thing portable and use one of the Bluetti or various other large battery bank type generators. Those have AC plugs on them you could plug something in to. Someone would have to make sure it was charged before you left. I think it could also be rigged up to charge from the tow vehicle while travelling too.

Last, but not least... Just get some headlamps.

 

[cannuck]

....when it's not in use it's just in a parking lot. I've tried doing some research on how to install outlets that would power some LED lights that would light up the inside of the trailer, but everything I found had to use an inverter that connected straight to the truck's battery.

I am a bit confused, so please clarify:

- Do you want to light up the interior of the trailer or have an external supply to power lights outside?
- do you want to use these lights only when a tractor is attatched or do you want to bring external power TO the trailer?
- how much lighting load and for how long do you need?

Trailers do not normally have batteries, but for some things it is possible to make a 12VDC storage system to run lighting when no tractor is attached. You can charge the storage battery from the tractor lighting circuit or even the ABS power supply line (isolating the battery charge circuit via diode)

You have stated that someone told you you needed an inverter from truck battery to run your lights. Do you expect to use 120VAC lighting? Why?

If you just need to light the interior of the trailer, 12VDC LED lighting meant for trucks and trailers have very low amp draw and can easily be run from a second vehicle or a small on board battery (again charged as above). Depends on your answer to how much light, what kind of lighting and for how long, etc.

 

[Innovate1]

Makes no sense to use an inverter for 120V lights if you are running this from a 12V source like a vehicle. Running it from the 7 pin connector should be able to power some small 12V lights as others have suggested.

 

[rlitman]

So you're saying you have a trailer, but no truck and no battery, and for some reason you want to tap into the 7-pin connector to wire in a completely separate power system to run lights. None of that makes sense (not saying I don't understand, just saying it's all a bad idea).

You need lights, and a power source, and need it to work off-grid. The 7-pin connector and existing trailer wiring isn't useful at all for you. Don't touch it.

Let's start again here. How much light do you need? Really bright to read, just enough not to trip on things or something in the middle? How much of the trailer do you need to light? One corner, half, everything? How much time do you need this lit up between battery charges? Minutes, hours, days?

It sounds like you own the trailer, so you might have the opportunity to install solar panels and built-in batteries. If you'll be using it a lot, and want to be as hands-off as possible, installing a battery box, solar charge controllers and low voltage lighting might be the ticket. If you want something more portable, M18 lanterns might suit you better. Milwaukee has all sorts of work-area lighting options. Some of which will run off battery, but then charge the batteries when plugged into 120V.

 

[TRWham]

When my kids were in band, we built a new (used) Kentucky and installed 120 V lighting connected either to shore power or a generator.

 

[Shiftless]

As said earlier, the simplest solution is to put a 12 volt lead acid battery in a plastic boat box and hook up a few low voltage light fixtures where you need the light. You can use RV fixtures or even low voltage landscape lighting fixtures. With LED bulbs, a group 24 size car battery (or deep cycle golf cart battery even better) will power half a dozen fixtures for many hours before it needs recharging.

You could mount a regular light switch in an electrical box on the wall near the door to control your lights. It’s low voltage so you don’t need conduit and all of that.

I installed a set up just like that in a neighbor’s shed when he told me he didn’t want to run 120 volts into his new shed. For safety, I wired in a 10 amp fuse to protect the system in case a wire got damaged and short circuited the set up.

 

[dcg9381]

Your problem is that the trailer wiring is light and can only carry a few amps. I have some accessories on my 7 pin, but they are light marker lights.

LEDs are low amp, you can add quite a few 12V lights inside the trailer without worry. My 16' cargo trailer came with 2 LEDs and a switch all running off the 7-pin. You can power a bunch of 12V LEDs (way more than you need) just by tapping into the running light circuit (or +12V on the 7-pin), but you need to be connected to the truck.

"Outlets" - I assume you want 120V outlets. The cheapest way to do this is by buying a battery / inverter combo that is portable. Often called "battery banks" "solar generators" - you just charge the bank before you need to use it. Simple is about $500. Larger banks $2500.

Otherwise you're into expensive and somewhat complicated additional battery, inverter, and shore power systems.


The cargo trailer lighting here is all 12V (cheap and simple). Adding the 120V outlets, enough battery power to cover 30A or so for 5 hours cost thousands. Way cheaper to bring an all-in-one power station for part time 120V use.

 

[Innovate1]

We are all pretty much guessing on what the OP wants and needs. How big is the trailer? How much light - just enough to keep from running into things in the dark or enough for working in the trailer. What's the planned source of power - vehicle or extension cord to nearby receptacle, or solar, or ?? What's the budget? If solar there is a bunch of sizing of the panels and battery to be done depending on how much light and how long it runs at a time.

 

[Bert_]

The real question is do you want to plug the trailer into an extension cord, or do you want it to be self contained with no cord to a building/pole?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

So you want the lights powered off the trailer harness when its connected to the tow truck? Will this truck remain with the trailer at your events? If not, forget the trailer harness idea.

Get a battery, charge controller, and solar panel. If you have shore power, you could also install an inlet on the side or front of the trailer and get a charge controller that can operate off DC solar and 120v shore power.

LED strip lights will probably give the best amount of light coverage and are easy to install.

 

[rancherbill]

So I was wondering if anyone knew how to set up a system where I could set up some outlets that run off of the 7-pin connector already on the trailer or if any other option is out there. Let me know if I'm missing anything and thanks to all in advance.

Plan A is to get a simple Inverter and there will be enough to run some LED lights.
Small inverters

Or Plan B
I have them in a small utility trailer - clearance lights with a clear lense are 12 v.
https://www.google.com/search?q=bee...4xM6AH2j2yBwQwLjEzuAeIDQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Neither solution is a lot of money.

 

[Wrench97]

The tractor unless specially equipped will not have power in the 7 wire unless it's ign is on(blue wire center pin in the 7way) or the lights are on(black and brown wires in the 7 pin found on either side of the big top ground pin) many operators may not be willing to leave either on.
Depending on your budget you could add a 12v battery, a battery maintainer plugged into the school when not in use, and/or a device called a trail charger hooked to the blue aux trailer wire to charge the battery while the truck is running(this is how we ran our lift gate batteries)

 

[mm08822]

I would wire up the trailer for 120v lights a few 120vac recepts with extension cords fastened in place. Run a little Honda gen into a power inlet box. Chain the gen to the trailer under carriage when in use.

Most assured method of having power. No worry about clouds or batts dieing.

 

[no704]

For led lights you could install usb plugs.

 

[TRWham]

I would wire up the trailer for 120v lights a few 120vac recepts with extension cords fastened in place. Run a little Honda gen into a power inlet box. Chain the gen to the trailer under carriage when in use.

Most assured method of having power. No worry about clouds or batts dieing.

Exactly.

Every marching band needs one or more generators regardless, so any solution other than 120 V is more work for no good reason. If you've ever been to any big marching competition, the parking lot sounds like a race track paddock with all the generators running. I was neck deep in this stuff for nearly a decade, as my kids were in a big Cobb County program with ~$1,000,000 annual budgets depending on the travel plan for the year. We made 2 cross country trips from ATL to Pasadena for the ToR with 2 different trailers and I was on the team that built both We learned a lot building the first, and even more studying DCI and other band trailers before we did the second one.

Install 120 V lighting and don't look back.

 

[rsanter]

We had a trailer that would connect to “shore power” or a generator so we would have 110v power for lights and plugs in the trailer
can you do that?

 

[trashauler]

I put two of these kits in my enclosed trailer. Mounted them on the ceiling ribs. Works great and very bright. 12 volt so no need for an inverter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZLWJZLT?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[kbeefy]

If all you want is light just get some portable rechargeable LED lights and put them wherever.
They have motion sensing ones that turn on when you walk by.
You could also get some that just run off disposable batteries.
I have some rechargeable ones on my trailer that have built in solar collectors.

I also got some cheap ones from amazon that use by dewalt cordless tool batteries.