lol. I have electrical tape currently but it doesn’t last long.
Ould you maybe flex it open a little and squeeze some double sided tape in here so it can’t move?
Stainless steel shim stock. You can get it in many thicknesses. Buy it in sheet or precut 1/2” wide rolls
For simple shim material, aluminum beer cans are hard to beat. They used to be 0.010", but the newer ones we use are 0.005". Once you've removed the ends, the material cuts easily with scissors.
Is this the yellowish tape? If so I have a bunch at my work. Looks like cellophane
I did. He says that there has to be machining tolerance due to variation across manufacturing. Each one does the same. It’s made for tool less take down versus the one I had previous where I’d have to disassemble the darn thing.
How often are you disassembling this gun? Can you post pictures of what you're trying to shim?
It’s not so much taking it down as it is just the constant rubbing while I’m shooting. I need something between .17 and .19mm thick. I found some 3M 9731 tape at work I’m going to try but unsure how adhesive it will be. I’m more worried about adhesion than anything. I think once the space is taken up almost anything will work. A bonus would be wear resistance lol
lol yeah I don’t mind a rattle. The gas pistons rattle a bit. Same with the anodizing on the receiver. It was when having a thumb over bore grip that it would shift on me and just didn’t feel right. I thought about JB weld as well and may do that down the road. It would check every box necessary. However my epoxy work leaves a lot to be desiredWatched a vid on assembly and read the RxArms release thread, and if I was determined to take out the
wee bit of slop, I would try a film of JB Weld on the heatshield tab and slowly file it to make a tighter fit.
Alternatively, I would gently try to peen the tab to raise the material slightly to push against the optic rail.
Even the mfr's. suggestion of a Ranger Band seems like a viable solution, (but I would understand your reluctance.)
I wouldn't be too concerned about making certain parts a press fit, fighting guns usually have a little rattle to 'em...
Nylatron is what you need. Would be perfect for your application.
One of the privileges of having a jewelers rolling mill is I can feed in any sorts of metal and roll it down to whatever thickness suits my needs. I've even managed to roll down stainless shim stock (but only by a VERY small amount). I can stretch a penny almost a foot.Very Thin copper roof flashing?
Or something like this?
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Use our jewelry metal sheet selector to find the perfect silver, gold, copper, or brass sheet for your designs. Compare alloys, thicknesses, and sizes easily at Rio Grande.www.riogrande.com
Use masking tape to mask off the area you want to build up. Use some coarse sandpaper to roughen the surface you want the epoxy to stick to and clean it with acetone. Work the epoxy with a toothpick or similar to ensure good contact with the metal. There's an intermediate phase in the setting of epoxy where it's soft enough to work with a knife, but no longer sticky--keeping it cold will prolong this period. Remove the masking at this point. Get it roughly the shape you want, then either let it sit or heat-cure at 225F and finish with some small files.lol yeah I don’t mind a rattle. The gas pistons rattle a bit. Same with the anodizing on the receiver. It was when having a thumb over bore grip that it would shift on me and just didn’t feel right. I thought about JB weld as well and may do that down the road. It would check every box necessary. However my epoxy work leaves a lot to be desired
