VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[Fretters]

Fret! Long time no see man! Hove have you been?

I'm keeping fine. I'm same as ever. I'll let you decide whether that's good or bad. How's things keeping with you all?

I've been erratic in my appearances on here simply because there's always so much to do. Life has a bad habit of interfering with tinkering time.

 

[Outlawmws]

I retired about 7 weeks back, I'm still "acclimating" - I'm almost done with all the "finish this paperwork before XYZ" stuff, including my income taxes...

Discussing a 4 day camping trip with some buddies soon.

 

[Fretters]

Nice. Bet it must be lovely knowing that your time is now your own.

 

[Outlawmws]

Hasn't seemed like it's been much of my own so far - too many worries about making various deadlines for Social Security, Medicare, taxes, stock options etc... But I'm almost there!

 

[Fretters]

Ah, the joys of organising things, red tape & paperwork.

 

[paulsomlo]

Hey all, i'm looking for a little help here. I've got a Reed 405 with a swivel base center pin that is stuck. I've tried hitting it with Kroil, i've soaked it in evaporust, i've soaked it in PB blaster, all to no avail. Anyone have a suggestion?

Heat

 

[Shiftless]

When you say “swivel base center pin” I assume you are talking about the shoulder bolt that is in the middle of the swivel base there at the bottom.

I use a drag link socket on the tough ones. You’ll need a BIG one.

I have heard some guys have success with a piece of steel plate that just fits the slot and then turn that with a big crescent wrench.

 

[RTM]

Hey all, i'm looking for a little help here. I've got a Reed 405 with a swivel base center pin that is stuck. I've tried hitting it with Kroil, i've soaked it in evaporust, i've soaked it in PB blaster, all to no avail. Anyone have a suggestion?

I used a whack it with a hammer impact wrench, with a drag link on the bottom to fill the slot, on my 203 1/2. Once it moved a fraction of a revolution, I went to a big breaker bar.

On another project, I used the heat and wax method seen here somewhere. Heat it up with a propane torch, rub paraffin around it so it can run in (tilt as needed). Let cool, repeat. When I finally got it apart, there was wax down in the grooves of the bolt. My skeptical nature subsided there.


Be patient, it's only original once. If you **** up the bolt, you have the tools to make a replacement. Many of us don't, so we need to be more cautious.

 

[KMScott]

Heat

I second this. Not with a propane torch, oxy acetylene is better.

Fretters, good to see you again.

 

[Provincial]

Pole shoe screws on older starters and generators pose a similar problem. Here is the recommended tool for them:

 

[Midwest Shop Supply]

When you say “swivel base center pin” I assume you are talking about the shoulder bolt that is in the middle of the swivel base there at the bottom.

I use a drag link socket on the tough ones. You’ll need a BIG one.

I have heard some guys have success with a piece of steel plate that just fits the slot and then turn that with a big crescent wrench.

Yes exactly, I just picked one of these up. I have let it sit in vinegar overnight, and I will try this out with an air wrench.

 

[Midwest Shop Supply]

I second this. Not with a propane torch, oxy acetylene is better.

Fretters, good to see you again.

Yeah I tried heat, but I might not have heated it enough. I have it sitting in vinegar right now, and so i'll try it again.

 

[Shiftless]

Yeah I tried heat, but I might not have heated it enough. I have it sitting in vinegar right now, and so i'll try it again.

The shocks from that air wrench should break it loose. Hopefully nothing important will break.
Good luck!!!

 

[Midwest Shop Supply]

The shocks from that air wrench should break it loose. Hopefully nothing important will break.
Good luck!!!

Yes, I am hoping the same! I'll definitely be going at it slowly initially!

 

[Fretters]

Fretters, good to see you again.

Thanks.

 

[Midwest Shop Supply]

Quick update on getting the Reed 405 swivel base 'unstuck', it worked! Thanks for everyone's input, now onto the swivel jaw! Oh by the way I did break a drag link socket in the process lol!

 

[Shiftless]

Congrats!
Are you going to trade that drag link socket in for a replacement?
What brand tool is that?

Chrome was not up to impact duty was it? Was that half inch drive?

 

[Fretters]

Oh by the way I did break a drag link socket in the process lol!

That truly was in there tight then.

 

[Outlawmws]

it worked!

Specifically what worked? Rattle gun? Hammer impact? Big breaker bar?

I suspect rattle gun, I doubt a hammer impact would have broken the drag link socket getting it out.

I'm not a fan of the rattle gun for this application. the hammer impact shocks the fastener in two directions. Its all I will use on the big #3 PH hinge screws on Samurai doors. A rattle gun either strips the cross in the screw, or ruins the #3 PH bit.

 

[RTM]

I'm not a fan of the rattle gun for this application. the hammer impact shocks the fastener in two directions.

This is why I suggested the whack it with a hammer impact wrench above, I like the multi pronged attack.

 

[Midwest Shop Supply]

Congrats!
Are you going to trade that drag link socket in for a replacement?
What brand tool is that?

Chrome was not up to impact duty was it? Was that half inch drive?

Yep, I got it from McMaster Carr and thankfully the agreed to replace it right away with free shipping too.

 

[Midwest Shop Supply]

That truly was in there tight then.

Yeah very very tight, good old vinegar definitely helped loosen it up!

 

[Midwest Shop Supply]

Specifically what worked? Rattle gun? Hammer impact? Big breaker bar?

I suspect rattle gun, I doubt a hammer impact would have broken the drag link socket getting it out.

I'm not a fan of the rattle gun for this application. the hammer impact shocks the fastener in two directions. Its all I will use on the big #3 PH hinge screws on Samurai doors. A rattle gun either strips the cross in the screw, or ruins the #3 PH bit.

First I soaked it overnight in vinegar, then I hammered on it with a pair of hand vise grips and a 4 pound hammer, then I tool that drag link socket and used a 1/2" air wrench. That is what snapped it, but luckly it loosened it up enough that I was able to move it and gently tap it out with a hammer after that.

 

[Midwest Shop Supply]

This is why I suggested the whack it with a hammer impact wrench above, I like the multi pronged attack.

yeah that is what worked in the end, first soaked in vinegar overnight, then I hammered on it with a pair of hand vise grips, and then I justed the drag link socket.

 

[drivesitfar]

Midwest: congrats!! Lots of information and posts on here about removing swivel jaw pins and jaws so check them out or ask questions if you have any.

 

[Outlawmws]

This is what RTM and I are talking about when we say "hammer impact".

Its a cam driven tool - can be used right or left thread loosening, (or tightening if you don't care about torque specs...) and when you"set" it you are twisting it in the direction you want it to go. Smack it hard. For bit fasteners its not going to cam out of the cross or slot, it shocks the thread loose, driving it onto the hole and the cam turns the fastener. - it will work when all other methods fail in my experience, so long as the part is able to sustain the pounding.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

About ready to put it back together.

 

[Midwest Shop Supply]

Midwest: congrats!! Lots of information and posts on here about removing swivel jaw pins and jaws so check them out or ask questions if you have any.

Yes, thanks for all the help! I might need some pointers on freeing up the swivel jaw, but i'll keep everyone posted along the way

 

[SouthernIllinois]

Couldn’t sleep so I finished up Grandad’s / Dad’s 60+ year old vise. As soon as I get some wire and shielding gas, I can zap down the base for its new home. Before & after.

 

[Fretters]

Looks good.

 

[Outlawmws]

Couldn’t sleep so I finished up Grandad’s / Dad’s 60+ year old vise. As soon as I get some wire and shielding gas, I can zap down the base for its new home. Before & after.

Came out nice!

Don't forget to have the Static jaw just past the edge of the plate, so long materials can drop past the plate vertically.

 

[Midwest Shop Supply]

Couldn’t sleep so I finished up Grandad’s / Dad’s 60+ year old vise. As soon as I get some wire and shielding gas, I can zap down the base for its new home. Before & after.

Beautiful job! What did you use for the filler? Weld? If so, did you preheat it?

 

[SouthernIllinois]

Beautiful job! What did you use for the filler? Weld? If so, did you preheat it?

Thank you!

I didn't have to fill anything.

Basically all I did was:

1. Soaked it in Corrosion-X and PB Blaster to break the frozen parts free.
2. Disassembled it.
3. Sandblasted the vise body.
4. Chased the threads with a tap.
5. Used a die grinder to remove rust from the handles and polishing rouge to shine them up.
6. Used an angle sander with 80 & 120 grit to shine up the areas of the vise body I wanted in bare metal.
7. Masked off the parts I wanted left bare metal.
8. Primed it with 2K primer and painted it with implement enamel (Ford Red).
9. Used Testors enamel model paint for the white stripes and lettering.
10. Clear coated the entire vise body.
11. Reassembled it.

The vise belonged to my Grandfather who gave it to my Dad who used it until his death last year. It's more of a sentimental thing than anything. Although I will use it some just because they did, I will probably end up buying a used, big vise for daily use.

 

[Shiftless]

Beautiful job! What did you use for the filler?

I didn't have to fill anything.

What a transformation! Great work!

Really? No filler? That primer must be quite good at hiding all these dings.

In the past, I have had to use epoxy paste on damage that severe.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

What a transformation! Great work!

Really? No filler? That primer must be quite good at hiding all the dings.

Thanks.

A lot of what looks like dings along the top was in some sort of thick, ancient putty or caulk that was smeared all over the top of the jaws. It took awhile with a razor scraper to get that off - sandblaster wouldn't touch it.

I did use an angle grinder to clean it up though. Went from 36 grit to 80 grit to 120 grit to get some of them out. The top edge of the jaws still have some significant "scarring".

 

[fishwatcher]

Thank you!

I didn't have to fill anything.

Basically all I did was:

1. Soaked it in Corrosion-X and PB Blaster to break the frozen parts free.
2. Disassembled it.
3. Sandblasted the vise body.
4. Chased the threads with a tap.
5. Used a die grinder to remove rust from the handles and polishing rouge to shine them up.
6. Used an angle sander with 80 & 120 grit to shine up the areas of the vise body I wanted in bare metal.
7. Masked off the parts I wanted left bare metal.
8. Primed it with 2K primer and painted it with implement enamel (Ford Red).
9. Used Testors enamel model paint for the white stripes and lettering.
10. Clear coated the entire vise body.
11. Reassembled it.

The vise belonged to my Grandfather who gave it to my Dad who used it until his death last year. It's more of a sentimental thing than anything. Although I will use it some just because they did, I will probably end up buying a used, big vise for daily use.

Fantastic job!!

 

[SouthernIllinois]

Fantastic job!!

Thank you.

I had almost forgotten how much I enjoy doing this sort of thing.
I am really enjoying now having the time, space and tools to get back into it.

 

[Fretters]

The top edge of the jaws still have some significant "scarring".

They're merely character. I've personally always left those type of scars as-is.

 

[Shiftless]

Thank you.

I had almost forgotten how much I enjoy doing this sort of thing.
I am really enjoying now having the time, space and tools to get back into it.

Livin’ the good life… fixin’ old vises and
hanging out on Garage Journal with the gang of virtual friends.

Beer ( if your doctor approves ) adds to the enjoyment of surfing GJ.
Here is the one I just finished.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

They're merely character. I've personally always left those type of scars as-is.

I was going to straighten the handle on the swivel but I figured either my Grandad or Dad bent it, so I left it as is.