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Does this valve have a packing that can be tightened?

Innovate1

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Jul 28, 2014
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Illinois near St. Louis, Missouri
I have this valve in my water system that has a very slow leak around the stem. It isn't wet but has some rust as can be seen. It also leaks very slowly into the downstream side when off. I see a hex under the handle that looks like a packing compression nut (I guess nut is the proper term?). It would take a thin wrench to tighten without taking the handle off but easy with the handle off. Before I give it a try I figured I would ask here. Anyone done this on this type valve? Could tightening the packing stop the downstream leak? Thinking it might leak around the packing to get to the other side. Or am I likely to just need to replace the valve?
Leaking sprinkler valve.jpg
 
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PopcornSutton

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Northern Tip of VA
I agree with Larry. While it may not be what is usually referred to as "packing", the valve is assembled where the handle attaches and can leak. I've had new valves that leaked right from the start, and a gentle snugging down and all is well.
 

larry4406

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I did that same repair couple weeks ago. Take top nut off to remove handle. Then tightened packing nut and reinstalled the handle.

My efforts were not very successful though. Still slight drip.
 

larry4406

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Let us know if the leak decreases or increases.
In my case it weeps for 2-3 days then quits. This is a valve at my water filter so it gets exercised with each filter change. Will be relocating the filter to another location so bidding my time with a bucket under it to catch drips.
 
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housewolf

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Feb 3, 2021
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East Texas
I did that same repair couple weeks ago. Take top nut off to remove handle. Then tightened packing nut and reinstalled the handle.

My efforts were not very successful though. Still slight drip.
That’s about all you can do. It’s not common, but some valves the “packing nut” is the nut/bolt that holds the handle on
 

gizardlizard

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Madison, WI
You don’t even need to remove the handle. In fact, with the amount of buildup you have, I would advise against it or you may end up snapping off the valve shaft. To tighten the packing nut with the handle still on, you will need a thin wrench but in a pinch, a 4” needle nose vice grips will work.
 

CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
One clue about whether it has packing is look at the nut compared to the main body of the valve. If the nut has some clearance, that indicates it may tighten packing when turned. I ran into a valve that I thought I could tighten but the nut wouldn't move. When I looked closer I realized it was tight against the body. I assumed it had an o-ring inside to do the sealing. ****, replacing the valve was a lot more work than the 1/4 turn on the nut I was expecting.
 

larry4406

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You don’t even need to remove the handle. In fact, with the amount of buildup you have, I would advise against it or you may end up snapping off the valve shaft. To tighten the packing nut with the handle still on, you will need a thin wrench but in a pinch, a 4” needle nose vice grips will work.
My valve I tried small needle nose pliers and still could not grip the packing nut.

OP might have better luck. I agree the corrosion is cause for concern of breaking the stem.
 

gizardlizard

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We use Watts valves at work. We have 3 valves per machine and have 40 machines. The valve handles get turned everyday. Monthly, we have to tighten packings if we have leaks. We just use a needle nose vice grips as it’s the quickest way.
 
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