Rotary spray paint agitator

[OccupantRJ]

Since I use a bit of spray can paint on smaller objects I got tired of jerking cans for no personal satisfaction so I came up with something I have been thinking about making for years.
I did some rpm testing on my metal lathe to determine a good speed.
I went on to marketplace and purchased a 120 volt 60rpm gearmotor locally for $40 that had a sprocket already on it. Next step was welding a fire extinguisher bracket to it to act as a quick release can holder.
A handle was fabricated of aluminum flat bar and a piece of 3/4” tubing covered with a piece of 3/4” heater hose.
Elevating pads were cut from an old composite door threshold from my materials storage, along with a power cord and handy box for a purchased 15 minute spring timer switch for unattended operation while I do other things.
i should have had enough knowledge to make this thing 60years ago. It is smooth and thorough. As I was building this I sold an old 120 volt hedge trimmer, blower, and a small engine part for enough to pay for it. A win, win. The screws on the rear of the motor were tightened right after this picture.

 

[4xdog]

Over the years in my industrial chemistry labs I’ve used several “roller”-style mixer/tumbler/agitators. They’ve ranged from homebuilt rollers using old typewriter carriage platens, plywood, a gear-reduction motor, and O-ring drive belts to purpose-built lab gear.

They’ve all worked very well as long as the top of the container to be mixed is secure or there’s good secondary containment. Depending on the length and number of the rollers one can put several containers on them at the same time in the valley between adjacent rollers.

I don’t have one in my home shop right now, but there are plenty of times I think of making another one.

 

[The Cobbler]

neat, thanks for sharing

 

[OccupantRJ]

Over the years in my industrial chemistry labs I’ve used several “roller”-style mixer/tumbler/agitators. They’ve ranged from homebuilt rollers using old typewriter carriage platens, plywood, a gear-reduction motor, and O-ring drive belts to purpose-built lab gear.

They’ve all worked very well as long as the top of the container to be mixed is secure or there’s good secondary containment. Depending on the length and number of the rollers one can put several containers on them at the same time in the valley between adjacent rollers.

I don’t have one in my home shop right now, but there are plenty of times I think of making another one.

There was a roller type mixer at my job before retirement with small and larger spacing between three rollers to accomodate spray cans or 1 gallon cans of a dry cement powder to mix. It was between my tool shop and subassembly department so it was very handy and worked well.
This smaller48 frame gearmotor design was chosen because I wanted the ease of portability and storage over a larger device. I love it so far and it was well worth doing. The agitator ball in the can moves end to end 120 times a minute and it’s pretty quiet overall with a steady motor hum and ball clicks.

 

[4xdog]

There was a roller type mixer at my job before retirement with small and larger spacing between three rollers to accomodate spray cans or 1 gallon cans of a dry cement powder to mix. It was between my tool shop and subassembly department so it was very handy and worked well.
This smaller48 frame gearmotor design was chosen because I wanted the ease of portability and storage over a larger device. I love it so far and it was well worth doing. The agitator ball in the can moves end to end 120 times a minute and it’s pretty quiet overall with a steady motor hum and ball clicks.

I like it!

 

[RMERR]

Looks good and functional. I've thought of buying one of these off Ebay and modding it it into a small stationary unit like yours.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[OccupantRJ]

Looks good and functional. I've thought of buying one of these off Ebay and modding it it into a small stationary unit like yours.

Pardon Our Interruption...

I thought about using a windshield wiper unit on a 12v power supply but decided on this

 

[Honch]

I have had a lot of problems with mechanical paint agitators shaking off the siphon tube in the spray paint can. Once that happens the can will only work if I hold it upside down. I use a pneumatic shaker that was designed for gallon cans. I ended up connecting a ball valve that lets me vary the speed. At its lowest speed I have not had the issue, I just let it shake a lot longer.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I have had a lot of problems with mechanical paint agitators shaking off the siphon tube in the spray paint can. Once that happens the can will only work if I hold it upside down. I use a pneumatic shaker that was designed for gallon cans. I ended up connecting a ball valve that lets me vary the speed. At its lowest speed I have not had the issue, I just let it shake a lot longer.

I think that will be a plus for my design. It spins gently with a click/clack once per second and is much more gentle sounding than a can on a sawsall with it raising hell.

 

[Beerhippie]

Hmmm... I have a 90VDC gearmotor and the drive control for it in the spares Conex... find a small enough FX mount for it....

That would allow for adjustable speeds, and get little enough use to still be a spare.

 

[whateg01]

I have a 2hp paint mixer. I learned that you could mix paint by spinning the can from an Adam Savage video. I'm not spending good money on those cheesy looking contraptions. Especially when I have a 3500# machine that will do it!

I have had a lot of problems with mechanical paint agitators shaking off the siphon tube in the spray paint can. Once that happens the can will only work if I hold it upside down. I use a pneumatic shaker that was designed for gallon cans. I ended up connecting a ball valve that lets me vary the speed. At its lowest speed I have not had the issue, I just let it shake a lot longer.

I've been shaking rattle cans for 50 years and never had that happen. Either you are the unluckiest paint shaker in the world, or you're doing it wrong!

 

[jfleisher]

I made one of these the other day…

DIY Drill Powered Spray Paint Can Shaker

This DIY Spray Paint Can Shaker takes just minutes to make and couldn't be any easier. There is no welding, no special tools, just simplicity!

m.roadkillcustoms.com

 

[Honch]

I have a 2hp paint mixer. I learned that you could mix paint by spinning the can from an Adam Savage video. I'm not spending good money on those cheesy looking contraptions. Especially when I have a 3500# machine that will do it!



I've been shaking rattle cans for 50 years and never had that happen. Either you are the unluckiest paint shaker in the world, or you're doing it wrong!

I'm using this:


I have mostly had the problem with Rust-Oleum Professional, which are substantially longer cans than normal. I think I just had it set way to high.

 

[lolaetype]

I made one with a piece of fiberglass tube, a piece of wood, a long 3/8"carriage bolt with threads to the head and some washers and a nut. The tube is slightly larger than the diameter of the standard paint can and about 9 inches long. I cut a round piece of one-by to fit in one end on the tube. Screws through the side of the tube hold it in place. I drilled a hole through the one-by slightly off center and put the carriage bolt through it with the head inside the tube; the washer and nut hold it in place.

Chuck the carriage bolt into a hand drill and place a shop towel over the open end of the tube. Push the spray paint can down the tube and the shop towel provides enough resistance to hold the can in the tube. Kind of like wadding when you load a round ball in a muzzle loading rifle.

Turn on the drill and the off center carriage bolt gives the shaker a slight wobble and that coupled with the rotation ensures the can's contents is fully mixed after about a minute.