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Using construction adhesive to secure automotive wiring to frame?

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Hakeem

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We installed some running lights on a flatbed truck at work and i used tar tape to secure the wiring but it wasn’t very effective. Admittedly that may well have been due to user error. Regardless - i was considering using construction adhesive, eg Liquid Nails, to glue the wire to the frame. Is this a foolish idea? Seems like the only downside would be the permanence of the glue once dried.

The main objective is to keep the wire tucked up away from the bottom of the frame:

IMG_0355.jpeg
 
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Hakeem

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kbeefy said:
I usually use clamps or zip ties. I don't really trust adhesive for holding that long.
In that application the best case would be it lasts as long as the paint. We know no paint last forever.

We also know no wire insulation lasts forever.
Click to expand...
I use zip ties when there’s something I can tie the wire too but for those longer stretches of frame where there arent any holes, I’m stuck. These are fleet vehicles so it doesn’t have to be super permanent, lord knows the tar tape isn’t.

I might just try a couple globs today and see how it holds up
 
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yatg

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Hakeem said:
I use zip ties when there’s something I can tie the wire too but for those longer stretches of frame where there arent any holes, I’m stuck. These are fleet vehicles so it doesn’t have to be super permanent, lord knows the tar tape isn’t.
Click to expand...
what's wrong with ziptie'n it to that support bar.
wrap the tie around the bar.

1748530831375.png
 
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4xdog

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Why not the small postage stamp-sized plastic squares that mount with 3M VHB pressure-sensitive adhesive and have a small raised slot in the center that will allow a zip tie to pass through?

I’ve used those successfully for years.

They’d easily fit anyplace you’d like to secure your harness.

FWIW, were it my trailer I’d also protect the wiring by putting it inside something like corrugated plastic split loom.
 
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Firebrick43

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4xdog said:
Why not the small postage stamp-sized plastic squares that mount with 3M VHB pressure-sensitive adhesive and have a small raised slot in the center that will allow a zip tie to pass through?

I’ve used those successfully for years.
Click to expand...
I have repaired a lot of wiring on trailers over the years due to the adhesive failing on those and the wire dragging.

They are almost as bad as scotchloks being used to repair wiring.

YATG has it right to zip tie (with good zip ties such as Thomas and betts metal tab ties) or drill a small hole and use insulated P clips or one of the variations of cable tie mounts

Fix it right, fix it once! Especially with a fleet vehicle.
 
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dcg9381

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Hakeem said:
I use zip ties when there’s something I can tie the wire too but for those longer stretches of frame where there arent any holes, I’m stuck. These are fleet vehicles so it doesn’t have to be super permanent, lord knows the tar tape isn’t.
Click to expand...
I use "zip tie" mounts. I glue them on with Gorilla glue as the 3m adhesive won't stay on forever, but the glue will last.

1748535163944.png

For external stuff on trailers, I use a padded clamp and a self-taping screw.

1748535229708.png
 
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4xdog

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Firebrick43 said:
I have repaired a lot of wiring on trailers over the years due to the adhesive failing on those and the wire dragging.

They are almost as bad as scotchloks being used to repair wiring…
Click to expand...

Ouch! I’m not sure anything is as bad as Scotchloks!

I’ve had decent luck with zip tie mounts. That’s using VHB, not standard 3M tape, and making sure the mounting surface is solvent-cleaned and completely dry.
 
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PCustoms

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4xdog said:
Ouch! I’m not sure anything is as bad as Scotchloks!

I’ve had decent luck with zip tie mounts. That’s using VHB, not standard 3M tape, and making sure the mounting surface is solvent-cleaned and completely dry.
Click to expand...

They have their place, under a trailer exposed to water, mud and salt is not one of them IMHO.

I'd use the clips made for this or drill and tap for a base. No glue/adhesive
 
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BillK

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4xdog said:
Why not the small postage stamp-sized plastic squares that mount with 3M VHB pressure-sensitive adhesive and have a small raised slot in the center that will allow a zip tie to pass through?
Click to expand...
Thats what I was thinking. These things but maybe with a better glue:

Amazon.com: Cable Tie Mounting Squares - 100PCS Self Adhesive Cable Tie Mounts Wire Cable Anchors Squares Holders for Cable Management Wreath Signs Outdoor Indoor : Electronics

Buy Cable Tie Mounting Squares - 100PCS Self Adhesive Cable Tie Mounts Wire Cable Anchors Squares Holders for Cable Management Wreath Signs Outdoor Indoor: Cable Ties - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
 
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PCustoms

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BillK said:
Thats what I was thinking. These things but maybe with a better glue:

Amazon.com: Cable Tie Mounting Squares - 100PCS Self Adhesive Cable Tie Mounts Wire Cable Anchors Squares Holders for Cable Management Wreath Signs Outdoor Indoor : Electronics

Buy Cable Tie Mounting Squares - 100PCS Self Adhesive Cable Tie Mounts Wire Cable Anchors Squares Holders for Cable Management Wreath Signs Outdoor Indoor: Cable Ties - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Click to expand...

I'd at least pick a less questionable listing...
 
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Firebrick43

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IMG_1246.jpeg

SS, 100 for 12$.

www.securecableties.com

316SS Single-Hole Cable Tie Mounts for Corrosive Environments, 23x15x5mm, 100 Pack

Secure CableTies' Stainless Steel Cable Tie Mounts are designed to maximize durability in corrosive environments. Made from premium 316 stainless steel, these mounts are weather and UV resistant, with a single fixing hole for easy installation. With a solid construction and cost-effective...
www.securecableties.com www.securecableties.com
 
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Black300zx

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If you're looking for absolute minimum effort, I'd be surprised if gorilla tape wouldn't do the job provided you cleaned the dirt and grime off.

Are you allowed to drill the frame? Rivnuts or something similar with appropriate rust prevention? Looks like you already drilled holes for the pass-thru grommets

I'd also second YATG's question about that cross-bar. Any reason you can't zip-tie it alongside that?
 
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bwringer

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dcg9381 said:
For external stuff on trailers, I use a padded clamp and a self-taping screw.

1748535229708.png
Click to expand...
Self-tapping screws are a fast one-way ticket to RustVille, and a BIG no-no in frames.

Those spring-loaded wiring clips that attach to edges, coupled with protection over the wires and zip ties, are probably the best idea.



Still. construction adhesive isn't the very worst idea, assuming it doesn't damage the wire insulation.

Or something like this:
3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200FC
 
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Firebrick43

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I agree with the the tek screws, hate them.

I use a 1/4” m12 impactor with the short stubby 1/4 drills and taps and use a 10-24 stainless screw. If using a P clips or one I use a dab of copgraph antiseeize.

If use a zip tie clamp I don’t care as you just cut the zip tie

Snap on flush cut dykes made just for zip ties so you don’t cut or scrape your arms on them. My boys and coworkers are well aware to never use them for anything else other than zip ties or they will be buying me a new pair
 
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paranoid56

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as the other guy said, the magnetic cable tie holders are amazing and work well. no drilling and easy to use and when you need to mess with the harness you can just pull it down vs cutting zipties.
 

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Brianf60

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PCustoms said:
They have their place, under a trailer exposed to water, mud and salt is not one of them IMHO.

I'd use the clips made for this or drill and tap for a base. No glue/adhesive
Click to expand...
They have their place alright. In the garbage pail. I havespnt the better part of 25 years doing 12 volt electrical diagnostic and repai. I can’t think of a single situation where they would be my choice.
 
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PCustoms

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Brianf60 said:
They have their place alright. In the garbage pail. I havespnt the better part of 25 years doing 12 volt electrical diagnostic and repai. I can’t think of a single situation where they would be my choice.
Click to expand...

They get used a lot in controls wiring
 
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Firebrick43

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PCustoms said:
They get used a lot in controls wiring
Click to expand...
Seen them fail a lot there as well after 15-20 years. Spend more time cleaning the old goo they used to call adhesive off and attaching a new one than would have ever been spent initially installing some clips or panduit slotted wire ducts

:unsure:

Maybe that is why I hate them so much.
 
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sz0k30

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That's on the same Micky Mouse level as using house wire nuts in car wiring. A car I bought a few years ago had at least 2 dozen wire nuts cobbling together a nest of wires under the dash.
 
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Sumboodie

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OccupantRJ said:
Caddy brand has an assortment of clips/clamps available.
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That's what I see on most flatbeds from the factory.
Usually with no wire loom, and that wiring somehow lasts 30-40+ years.
Probably more so now with better insulation and the lights drawing barely anything. I put new clearance lights on my trailer, each draw like 0.03 amps. Could run 100 of them in the wiring old light bulb lights used and still draw less power.

I almost always run exterior wiring in a split loom.
It's more work, but makes me feel better. 🤣 and it's cheap. I get rolls of 1/4" and 3/8" for under .25 a foot.
 
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