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Snap-on 1/2" Drive Inside a Harbor Freight G2 Icon - It Works

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spyerx

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who knows. I’m sticking with the snap on internals. It’s fantastic.

On that note. I got my snap on 3/8” compact anvil and plate. Check it out. It works great SUPER SMOOTH. Compare is snap on regular 3/8, snap on compact roto, an Armstrong 88 (ie matco).

Super compact head and locking flex 9” length.

This i like.


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IMG_5932.jpeg
 
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pfbz

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It's crazy that the brand new G2 ratchets seem to have an issue out of the box, and a fairly big one at that.... Weren't the G2 ratchets released because the G1's had a bit of a reputation as problematic?

Sure, one can buy it and put the SO guts upgrade in, but as asked above, how was this not easily discovered in testing when the test case seems to be nothing more than "loosen a few very tight bolts"?
 

Hakeem

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It's crazy that the brand new G2 ratchets seem to have an issue out of the box, and a fairly big one at that.... Weren't the G2 ratchets released because the G1's had a bit of a reputation as problematic?

Sure, one can buy it and put the SO guts upgrade in, but as asked above, how was this not easily discovered in testing when the test case seems to be nothing more than "loosen a few very tight bolts"?
Good question. Considering Snapon and Koken also had issues with their new ratchets out of the box, I’d say HF is in good company.
 

nicks78camaro

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Nothing is quality tested anymore. We are the guinea pigs. Somehow it's a better business decision to release early and fix/recall the defects later, even if it's on a mass scale.
 

308guru

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It's crazy that the brand new G2 ratchets seem to have an issue out of the box, and a fairly big one at that.... Weren't the G2 ratchets released because the G1's had a bit of a reputation as problematic?
What's the big deal? It's a 1/2" drive 26" long ratchet not a surgeon's scalpel. It has a tiny hitch in the movement, that disappeared (if you watched the followup video) and it's time to call all of it garbage?
 
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spyerx

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It was interesting to see the video where that shop that was using these for a couple weeks had the exact same problem.

But, they used it more than I did as is (I just swapped to snap on stuff) and they said it hasn't happened again. My non-professional view was the tolerances were too tight in the anvil notch in the back of the case, which caused the binding. With use, this would work itself out.

Anyway, I really like the ratchet, it's great for those suspension and lugs.
 

pfbz

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What's the big deal? It's a 1/2" drive 26" long ratchet not a surgeon's scalpel. It has a tiny hitch in the movement, that disappeared (if you watched the followup video) and it's time to call all of it garbage?
I didn't call it "garbage", but at $120 list price for the 26" flex, yeah, I kinda expect it to not have to bang it against a table to stop it from sticking when it's a week old.

Especially on a brand new design release that was specifically to address previous issues...

There are TONS of great options for ratchets in that price range. I'll be voting with my $$$ the way I like, but I fully support your decision to buy a G2 hammer/ratchet if you feel the price/performance on it meets your expectations.

Buying it and swapping in a SO rebuild kit is certainly a reasonable option as well. If I'm buying it at 40% off, sure... But at $120+$20 for a rebuild kit, it's a no for me.
 

Sbusmech

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Time spent learning is priceless. Sometimes it's expensive when you figure it by the hour, but the knowledge is priceless!
Now I'll be the first to admit that I've learned some priceless things that were useless, but it was fun figuring it out along the way.

who knows. I’m sticking with the snap on internals. It’s fantastic.

On that note. I got my snap on 3/8” compact anvil and plate. Check it out. It works great SUPER SMOOTH. Compare is snap on regular 3/8, snap on compact roto, an Armstrong 88 (ie matco).

Super compact head and locking flex 9” length.

This i like.


IMG_5931.jpeg

IMG_5933.jpeg
IMG_5932.jpeg
This should help out a little.
 

AEAdam

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I feel this thread is a little like the guys who put Porsche 911 engines in VW bugs. It’s an amazing feat of engineering. Maybe more fun for the modder than anyone else.

Like the bugs, there’s more to a snap on ratchet than just the ratchet guts. I’m sure the OP will say exactly what those VW guys say “but I LIKE the VW!” Really? Do you like it more than the Porsche?

These Icon ratchets aren’t cheap. The idea of filling a drawer full of them seems…Surely, if you want a Snap On ratchet, you can find a beat up one on eBay and restore that. I’ve done that several times. Dual 80 has been out a long time, just like 911s. Just go buy that and don’t try to turn something cheaper into the thing you really want.

Appreciate and admire the effort.
 

Andres26tnt

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I don't see the appeal of these long ratchets, I have one that is 24" or forget the number. Used it once, never again as it hit everything even a lift. It just not as advantageous. Much better size is the 14 to 12", with the advancement in modern electric tools, I rarely use a long tool.
 

Sbusmech

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I don't see the appeal of these long ratchets, I have one that is 24" or forget the number. Used it once, never again as it hit everything even a lift. It just not as advantageous. Much better size is the 14 to 12", with the advancement in modern electric tools, I rarely use a long tool.
There are many places you can't even get and electric tool into the area needed. Having a long ratchet with a swivel head, helps you get the job done in a timely manner.
 

AEAdam

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This should help out a little.
There’s so much wrong with this, as well as most of his videos.

1) All the ratchets should have been subject to a break in period. These are little mechanisms that will change over time. The wear I’m talking about will effect both back drag and strength.*

2) I think head thickness, weight, and selector force are all irrelevant. Head width is debatable. None of this should be part of the scoring.

3) For strength, the non QR ratchets were all around the same, which is to be expected. Gone are the days when the import brands just collapse at 50% of the first world tools.

I think for short handled ratchets, I want low back drag, a selector that doesn’t annoy me, easily flipped, not light per se, but shaped right and in the right location. I especially like the solidity of my T72 and how an extension is held pretty rigidly. I dont want a rattly drive line from socket to ratchet. If I want a wobble, I’ll use one. Don’t want that built in.

*A new ratchet with a sloppy ungreased head will perform well in back drag, but as it wears, its strength will fall way off and it will become rattly. I would not put it past HF (or Milwaukee) to build tools that do well on YouTube tests, but whose performance subsequently becomes disappointing.

The criteria the YouTubers are using (which one of them pulled out of his *** and the rest of the have copied) have become design goals for Asian manufacturers looking to grab market share. The Snap on dealer parlor tricks have also clearly become design goals. Exactly the same. What a world we live in!

Wouldn’t it be great if manufacturers just asked pro users what they needed and manufactured that? That used to be one advantage of the Snap On business model (that most of you hate). Corporate was very close to their end users. Not sure if that’s still the case or not.
 

Sbusmech

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There’s so much wrong with this, as well as most of his videos.

1) All the ratchets should have been subject to a break in period. These are little mechanisms that will change over time. The wear I’m talking about will effect both back drag and strength.*

2) I think head thickness, weight, and selector force are all irrelevant. Head width is debatable. None of this should be part of the scoring.

3) For strength, the non QR ratchets were all around the same, which is to be expected. Gone are the days when the import brands just collapse at 50% of the first world tools.

I think for short handled ratchets, I want low back drag, a selector that doesn’t annoy me, easily flipped, not light per se, but shaped right and in the right location. I especially like the solidity of my T72 and how an extension is held pretty rigidly. I dont want a rattly drive line from socket to ratchet. If I want a wobble, I’ll use one. Don’t want that built in.

*A new ratchet with a sloppy ungreased head will perform well in back drag, but as it wears, its strength will fall way off and it will become rattly. I would not put it past HF (or Milwaukee) to build tools that do well on YouTube tests, but whose performance subsequently becomes disappointing.

The criteria the YouTubers are using (which one of them pulled out of his *** and the rest of the have copied) have become design goals for Asian manufacturers looking to grab market share. The Snap on dealer parlor tricks have also clearly become design goals. Exactly the same. What a world we live in!

Wouldn’t it be great if manufacturers just asked pro users what they needed and manufactured that? That used to be one advantage of the Snap On business model (that most of you hate). Corporate was very close to their end users. Not sure if that’s still the case or not.
Not really. He tries to be as unbiased and scientific as possible. It's just food for thought to see it in action. I've been a Snap On customer since 2003 and more 80% of my tools are indeed Snap On, which I put to good use daily. I'm just saying the playing field isn't was it used to be, many more manufacturers producing quality products at a much lower price point.
 
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AEAdam

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I don't see the appeal of these long ratchets, I have one that is 24" or forget the number. Used it once, never again as it hit everything even a lift. It just not as advantageous. Much better size is the 14 to 12", with the advancement in modern electric tools, I rarely use a long tool.
Done any rotors recently? Maybe if you have hands of steel or a lift…Caliper bolts, transverse mounted engine anything, are reasons why I have the absolute longest ratchets I can buy. They are the first and last tools I use on just about every job I do.


That said- if you are talking 3/8” I think the FLHF80 is about 14” and I LOVE that ratchet
 

Sbusmech

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Done any rotors recently? Maybe if you have hands of steel or a lift…Caliper bolts, transverse mounted engine anything, are reasons why I have the absolute longest ratchets I can buy. They are the first and last tools I use on just about every job I do.


That said- if you are talking 3/8” I think the FLHF80 is about 14” and I LOVE that ratchet
Agreed. I use mine daily.
 
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AEAdam

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Not really. He tries to be as unbiased and scientific as possible. It's just food for thought to see it in action.
No he’s making money on YouTube. The criteria he uses is designed to grab peoples‘ attention. There’s nothing thoughtful or scientific about his videos. I’m sure he’s a nice guy. But make no mistake about it.

If you want information about what ratchet to buy, you’d be way better off asking @2ndGearRubber, whose probably owned a lot of ratchets, broken a few, and spent 1000s of hours with a ratchet.

The internet is full of folks proclaiming themselves as experts to make money. In woodworking, many of them started innocently enough, as enthusiasts with a penchant to share. But the money or fame they make sharing quickly overtakes their actual skill level. So many tool reviews are that now.

My brother Steve was a pro carpenter all his life. He would give advice like “no, you don’t need that, just use your chisel”. Where do people get advice like that? All the information we seek OUTSIDE OF GJ comes from people who are trying to sell us something. Consequently, I think we get bad advice.
 

mreisner

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I've been buying Snap-on for close to 40 years more lately since we have a terrific dealer. Only reason I did the swap on the flex head is I don't like the new or old lockng mechanism.
 

mreisner

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And it cut me off again. But basically I got what I was looking for by putting a Snap-On kit in the icon head. Not sure if it will be as strong but it's pretty effective. I wish that would make a locking head like that and maybe they will on the new 100 tooth ones which they finally have gotten correct
 

Sbusmech

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No he’s making money on YouTube. The criteria he uses is designed to grab peoples‘ attention. There’s nothing thoughtful or scientific about his videos. I’m sure he’s a nice guy. But make no mistake about it.

If you want information about what ratchet to buy, you’d be way better off asking @2ndGearRubber, whose probably owned a lot of ratchets, broken a few, and spent 1000s of hours with a ratchet.

The internet is full of folks proclaiming themselves as experts to make money. In woodworking, many of them started innocently enough, as enthusiasts with a penchant to share. But the money or fame they make sharing quickly overtakes their actual skill level. So many tool reviews are that now.
Once again I somewhat agree, but it's still a test of strength that's nice to see how different brands compare to each other. Like I said earlier I make my living wrenching, I used many different brands that I own and others I work with. Many of these other brands hold up in a medium/heavy work environment day in a day out. It's nice to have lots of choices to choose from. Competition improves the breed.
 
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Andres26tnt

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Done any rotors recently? Maybe if you have hands of steel or a lift…Caliper bolts, transverse mounted engine anything, are reasons why I have the absolute longest ratchets I can buy. They are the first and last tools I use on just about every job I do.


That said- if you are talking 3/8” I think the FLHF80 is about 14” and I LOVE that ratchet

Rotors 😆 plenty, all I own are traverse vehicles and one mid engine car(mr2). Well i lied, my mustang is my only correct placement engine vehicle I own. I'm only talking about the 3/8s. I agree the 14" is the max I go for 3/8. Also own that same ratchet. I'm Breakerbar user, I prefer using them if I need something long.
 
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spyerx

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For some reason it wouldn't let me finish it in the first post. My dream 3/8 ratchet is a dual 80 head with a Matco locking locking mechanism

Nailed it... I actually prefer the Icon handle and lock. I have some older Anderson ARMSTRONG (duh) locking flex (matco) and they are probalby my favorite to use. These Icon locking flex have a snap on (style) head and matco style lock and a long snap on length.

I have 3 of them, and like them. And used them a bunch recently. They feel and operate as good as my SO... well because the functional mechanisms are SO :)

1/2" long locking flex, 1/4 locking flex with a 3/8" anvil in it, 1/4 locking flex.

I don't think I have a need or want to add anything else from their line. My stubbies are snap on, my roto are snap on, my regular flex are snap on, and my non-flex are snap on...
 
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mreisner

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Nailed it... I actually prefer the Icon handle and lock. I have some older Anderson locking flex (matco) and they are probalby my favorite to use. These Icon locking flex have a snap on (style) head and matco style lock and a long snap on length.

I have 3 of them, and like them. And used them a bunch recently. They feel and operate as good as my SO... well because the functional mechanisms are SO :)

1/2" long locking flex, 1/4 locking flex with a 3/8" anvil in it, 1/4 locking flex.

I don't think I have a need or want to add anything else from their line. My stubbies are snap on, my roto are snap on, my regular flex are snap on, and my non-flex are snap on...
Same here along with a few Matco's
 

liliysdad

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Not really. He tries to be as unbiased and scientific as possible. It's just food for thought to see it in action. I've been a Snap On customer since 2003 and more 80% of my tools are indeed Snap On, which I put to good use daily. I'm just saying the playing field isn't was it used to be, many more manufacturers producing quality products at a much lower price point.

I wouldn't care if the man was Albert Einstein, there isn't enough science on earth to make me watch that guy.
 

Shoreline_

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Yeah, but, "Compare to Snap On" :ROFLMAO:

The Gearwrench 90T equivalent is $103 on Amazon right now, so $120 isn't insane.
I think people have forgotten what Harbor Freight started off as. Gearwrench is a tool company and HF is a Alibaba power buyer. Theres no way Im going to spend $120 for a tool from a chinese emporium
 

Andres26tnt

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I think people have forgotten what Harbor Freight started off as. Gearwrench is a tool company and HF is a Alibaba power buyer. Theres no way Im going to spend $120 for a tool from a chinese emporium

I agree people forgotten what HF still is, yet they complain about other companies charging higher prices. Here there are buying 120$ ratchets and changing the guts 🤣.
 
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