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Order of Operations for Garage Remodel

18tyweslow

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Joined
Feb 18, 2025
Messages
23
Location
Northeast Wisconsin
Hey all, I’m starting my garage remodel soon and am trying to get all my timelines lined up.

I will be:
  1. Tearing off the old unfinished drywall
  2. Tearing out the old insulation
  3. Running more electrical in the walls and adding more lights in the ceiling
  4. Putting new rockwool insulation in the walls
  5. Blowing in insulation in the ceiling
  6. Getting new drywall put up (professionally)
  7. Replacing the garage door opener in the main stall for a similar overhead opener (professionally)
  8. Replacing the garage door opener in the 3rd stall with a jackshaft opener (professionally)
  9. Doing a high lift rail conversion in the 3rd stall (professionally)
  10. Painting/priming w/ vapor retarding paint and finishing with regular paint.
  11. Installing lights, covers, etc.
In what order should I be doing all this? I’m assuming garage door stuff before drywall, but after I tear everything down? Obviously insulation needs to be blown in after I get the new drywall in too. I just want to make sure I have the contractors lined up correctly.

Thanks!!
 
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rdoty

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Your overall order looks good.

They can do all the insulation at the same time. When the crew insulated my shop they stapled a fabric to the bottom of the rafters and then blew the ceiling insulation on top of that. Sheetrock was applied later. Strongly recommend 5/8" sheetrock for the whole garage. May be a code requirement, is more durable, and doesn't cost much more. I am AMAZED at how fast a professional drywall crew is. They basically walk slowly through the room and the drywall somehow magically appears!

I would suggest painting right after the sheetrock goes in and before anything else is done - this will simplify painting. Once painting is done you can re-install all of the covers and lights. This will also make the rest of the work easier.

Install more outlets than you think you need. If you install twice as many as you think you need you will only be a few outlets short. Think about placement of workbenches and other working areas and add higher outlets in these areas - something around 4' off the floor.

Install more lighting than you think you need. Especially as you get a bit older you really can't have too much light!

Consider doing something with the floor. I didn't and regret it...

Is the garage conditioned? Any changes there?
 

LXCam

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AZ
Can’t add much more then what rdoty stated. I would suggest you get your new track assembly mocked up and or confirm where you might need backing nailed in for the mounts before drywall is installed.
 

lolaetype

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Joined
Dec 11, 2019
Messages
2,171
Location
North Western Arkansas
Everything above seems good to me. Some additional thoughts:

Do you have the ability to increase the number of individual circuits in the garage? Within reason, more is better than less, IMHO.

Will you need 220V? Consider adding it even if you don't need it now.

Plan for additional receptacles where you plan on putting workbenches.

I'm finding more and more things require a USB port for charging. I added a quad USB wall outlet where I charge tools.

1749220510350.png

There are a couple of locations were I should have added quadplex outlets instead of duplex outlets.

If you are doing anything to the floor, now is the time to do it.

What is above the garage? If attic space, can you put plywood down and use it for lightweight storage, via a pull down ladder?

Do you have, or are you planning on a deep sink in the garage? If so consider a stainless steel deep sink.
 
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18tyweslow

Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2025
Messages
23
Location
Northeast Wisconsin
Your overall order looks good.

They can do all the insulation at the same time. When the crew insulated my shop they stapled a fabric to the bottom of the rafters and then blew the ceiling insulation on top of that. Sheetrock was applied later. Strongly recommend 5/8" sheetrock for the whole garage. May be a code requirement, is more durable, and doesn't cost much more. I am AMAZED at how fast a professional drywall crew is. They basically walk slowly through the room and the drywall somehow magically appears!

I would suggest painting right after the sheetrock goes in and before anything else is done - this will simplify painting. Once painting is done you can re-install all of the covers and lights. This will also make the rest of the work easier.

Install more outlets than you think you need. If you install twice as many as you think you need you will only be a few outlets short. Think about placement of workbenches and other working areas and add higher outlets in these areas - something around 4' off the floor.

Install more lighting than you think you need. Especially as you get a bit older you really can't have too much light!

Consider doing something with the floor. I didn't and regret it...

Is the garage conditioned? Any changes there?
I’ll definitely be throwing a whole lot of outlets in. I want a 20a circuit for my pressure washer set up and need 220 ran for my compressor. Along with a bunch of extra regular receptacles, especially around my workbench area. Same with lighting, I’m going with PrimeLight’s Bolt series of fixtures. Probably 13 or so of them.

The garage currently only has heat, but I do plan on getting AC in there at some point here. Thanks for all the tips!

Can’t add much more then what rdoty stated. I would suggest you get your new track assembly mocked up and or confirm where you might need backing nailed in for the mounts before drywall is installed.
Sounds good, I’ll get in touch with the garage door guys!

Would suggest having the garage door guys to come visit and preplan while the rock is off the walls. Might need to add some blocking or structure for them. Need to lay in the door safety wiring before the rock as well.
Sounds like a plan, thanks for the tip!! This is the kind of stuff I wanted to know.

Everything above seems good to me. Some additional thoughts:

Do you have the ability to increase the number of individual circuits in the garage? Within reason, more is better than less, IMHO.

Will you need 220V? Consider adding it even if you don't need it now.

Plan for additional receptacles where you plan on putting workbenches.

I'm finding more and more things require a USB port for charging. I added a quad USB wall outlet where I charge tools.

There are a couple of locations were I should have added quadplex outlets instead of duplex outlets.

If you are doing anything to the floor, now is the time to do it.

What is above the garage? If attic space, can you put plywood down and use it for lightweight storage, via a pull down ladder?

Do you have, or are you planning on a deep sink in the garage? If so consider a stainless steel deep sink.
I’ll definitely be adding to the amount of circuits in the garage. At least 2 more, one being 20a for my pressure washer setup.

Great tip on the USB receptacle, I’ll be throwing one of those by my workbench for sure!

It’s a ranch house, so yes it’s just attic above the garage. I’ll definitely be putting some plywood down for storage. Lots of outdoor stuff that doesn’t need to be in our basement can go in there. No sink planned for now, there’s a bathroom just inside the garage entry door with a big basin sink intended for cleanup, etc.

Not sure if I want to do anything to the floor. I thought about swisstrax or similar but I’ll be doing some heavy work on a lift in the 3rd stall. Engine pulls, suspension refreshes, etc. So that’s out. I haven’t explored epoxy much but everyone I’ve talked to has said to just keep it concrete with the work I want to do. Definitely interested in counter arguments though.
 

Fixr

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Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
9,912
Location
SW VA
I ran 2 120volt 20 amp circuits down each side wall, with receptacles alternating, just in case I needed to have 2 heavy loads running at the same time in the same area. I should have put in a few more receptacles. I put in all of the receptacles above bench height.
 

Skellyii

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Messages
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KC Area
Where is you main breaker panel?

In my first house, the panel was in the garage, so if I needed to install more outlets after the initial work, all I had to do was to fish the lines through the walls.

Second house, the breaker panel was on the extreme far end of the house from the garage, and it was going to be a frikkin @$%! to run a cable to the garage, so I just ran a single cable to a sub panel, so if I needed more circuits....which I did later, all I had to do was run additional stuff in the garage.

I've NEVER known anyone that has installed sufficient outlets in their garage the first time.

One more thing to consider before closing up the walls.
 

rdoty

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Messages
667
Location
Massachusetts
A couple of additional thoughts on electricity:

$3.00 - $5.00 commercial grade outlets are much sturdier than the $1.00 builder grade outlets. The $10.00+ commercial and medical grade outlets are probably overkill. I've never owned anything that uses 120V 20amp - anything needing more than 15 amps is a candidate for 240V. In my humble opinion...

When I wired the shop I added 4 240V outlets, basically one in each corner up fairly close to the ceiling - cheapest and easiest to do when the walls are open. I initially needed one for heat.

Since then I added an air compressor. The third one ended up driving a sub panel on the far side of the shop for 240V and 240V 3-phase machine tools I hadn't even thought of when building the shop. The fourth one is still available - one thought is to extend it with some surface mount conduit if I need more 240V.

If you think you might add a mini-split in the future (strongly recommended!) run a couple of circuits to the wall where the outside compressor will be mounted. 10ga to an outside disconnect will cover anything you are likely to use. Code requires a 120V utility utility outlet within 25' of the compressor.

Also consider one or two outside outlets in convenient locations.

Since my electrical panel is in the garage I mounted an empty 4x4 box about a foot below it, connected to the panel by a chunk of 1" EMT. This is a "just in case" box, installed while there was easy access. The leading suspect for it is a possible EV charging station in the future. If I end up getting a 240V welder I will probably use this box. Or maybe add an additional circuit to the subpanel. Or both!
 

AEAdam

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Joined
May 27, 2023
Messages
2,908
Location
SE PA
How is the floor? If you wanted to resurface, I’d sneak that in before drywall.

Depending on your exact usage, put additional thought including CAD modeling into lights and electrical outlets.

FWIW I haven’t done my garage yet. For my ground floor living space I put in a new slab with radiant heating. Thanks to info and encouragement from GJ I bought a floor buffer and rented a diamabrush and ground the surface, densified and polished it.

That was a very reasonable DIY project. I’d recommend it if you wanted any resurfacing of your floor. Doesn’t even produce air born dust.
 
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kngelv

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May 25, 2011
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2,264
Location
Detroit, MI
I’ll definitely be throwing a whole lot of outlets in. I want a 20a circuit for my pressure washer set up and need 220 ran for my compressor. Along with a bunch of extra regular receptacles, especially around my workbench area. Same with lighting, I’m going with PrimeLight’s Bolt series of fixtures. Probably 13 or so of them.

The garage currently only has heat, but I do plan on getting AC in there at some point here. Thanks for all the tips!


Sounds good, I’ll get in touch with the garage door guys!


Sounds like a plan, thanks for the tip!! This is the kind of stuff I wanted to know.


I’ll definitely be adding to the amount of circuits in the garage. At least 2 more, one being 20a for my pressure washer setup.

Great tip on the USB receptacle, I’ll be throwing one of those by my workbench for sure!

It’s a ranch house, so yes it’s just attic above the garage. I’ll definitely be putting some plywood down for storage. Lots of outdoor stuff that doesn’t need to be in our basement can go in there. No sink planned for now, there’s a bathroom just inside the garage entry door with a big basin sink intended for cleanup, etc.

Not sure if I want to do anything to the floor. I thought about swisstrax or similar but I’ll be doing some heavy work on a lift in the 3rd stall. Engine pulls, suspension refreshes, etc. So that’s out. I haven’t explored epoxy much but everyone I’ve talked to has said to just keep it concrete with the work I want to do. Definitely interested in counter arguments though.
Put an outlet up high near where the jackshaft opener is going. Also anyone who tells you that you can’t do major work on RaceDeck type tiles has never had them. I do it all the time. Welding is the only thing that can be an issue but if you put welding blankets down then there will be no issues.


James
 

Ultradog MN

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Joined
Jan 20, 2024
Messages
870
Location
Twin Cities
Go with on the wall wiring - after the drywall is in.
It is a shop.
You are going to be adding, subtracting, up and down sizing machines, equipment and storage stuff.
If you go on the wall (thinwall conduit), a major addition or subtraction to your electrical system is vastly easier to accomplish.
 

AEAdam

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Joined
May 27, 2023
Messages
2,908
Location
SE PA
I’m toying with some sort of ventilation system TBD for my garage.

Before you close up the ceilings might it worth considering some sort of turbo extraction fan? Just to pull air through, not necessarily for engine exhaust but other dusty, stinky stuff or even drying the inside of the building?

I’m not a baby about it, but I don’t love the smell of differential oil. It’s stinky. If I had a whole house type fan to pull that smell out, I’d appreciate it.

A simple fan may not be quite so easy, so I’m wondering about maybe a little ducting so I can put the exhaust somewhere convenient and the fan kinda where I need it. That might mean messing around in the ceiling.

A couple other thoughts: CO detector (assuming that’s required). What about a sprinkler system? I’m thinking about installing an EV charger despite the fact that I don’t currently own any EVs. I do worry about parking them inside a building and the darned things catching fire. Maybe a sprinkler wouldn’t stop it, at least it could buy you time. A friend of mine had an E bicycle burn his garage down. He said that bike burned for days after the fire was extinguished.
 

Colin Len

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Jan 30, 2013
Messages
1,234
Location
Long Beach CA
Would suggest having the garage door guys to come visit and preplan while the rock is off the walls. Might need to add some blocking or structure for them. Need to lay in the door safety wiring before the rock as well.
I'm working on a similar project currently and have similar advice. I had my garage door guy come to remove the door so it's out of the way.

I told the installer that I was going to trim the inside of the opening with 1x6 so he had something solid to secure to - this would also allow the drywall to be done up to that 1x6 trim. He liked that idea but said he's seen others just install plywood/osb on the entire wall. You can still have the drywall guys mud over and finish the OSB to make it look nice and consistent with the drywall but also allows for secure mounting of the door, motor, springs...etc. Pretty sure that's the route I'm going to take. I was also going to put some kind of blocking on the ceiling for where I expect the tracks to be.

I'm also trying to figure out the best way to change all the door hardware & tracks to white instead of galvanized. I feel like this will make a massive difference in how it looks.
 

tarmy

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May 28, 2014
Messages
4,760
Location
Nor Cal
Whatever you do…DO NOT start with…

Asking the wifey for permission…
asking wifey for “ideas”…
discussing with wifey the actual true cost of this endeavor…
planning to have actual cars in the garage AFTER the remodel…
thinking about getting a fishing boat when done to place in the newly refurbished garage…
getting prices on all the new tools needed for this…um….job.
hoping that wifey will help…
thinking that as the project is underway and ****, dust, noise and wifey’s displaced car, Christmas decorations and all her **** stored in the garage currently….will get you any bedroom action…

This is just a short list based upon…um…a friends experience. Yep, another guy…not me…
 

tremiso220

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Joined
Aug 3, 2026
Messages
15
I’m actually not in the same area, so I wouldn’t pretend I know the local contractors there. I had my own garage remodel done in the Toronto/GTA area with Red Stone Contracting Toronto, and the general-contractor approach worked really well for me because they handled the permits and kept the electricians and garage-door guys on the same schedule.
 
Last edited:

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,602
Location
SE MI
I'm finding more and more things require a USB port for charging. I added a quad USB wall outlet where I charge tools.

1749220510350.png
USB Type-A charging ports are starting to fade. Yes, they will charge your phone and probably a tablet, but more and more thing need the USB Type-C charging port with Power Delivery for "high power" charging, like laptops.

Segue - If you are buying USB Type-C to Type-C cord spend the little bit extra for the Power Deliver cord ! If you don't, it will bite you in the sass in the future !
 

75gmck25

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Jul 21, 2014
Messages
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Alexandria, VA
For wall insulation you might consider a flash and batt solution. The "flash" is a thin layer (1-2") of spray foam that completely seals up the wall and prevents any air penetration. Then you add whatever type of batt insulation you want to fill the cavity.

USB-A (the large USB connector) is on the way out, and all the newer electronic devices use variations of USB-C (USB 3.2, USB4, USB 4.0 Version 2, etc.). I would include a few places near the workbench with USB A and C charging ports, but not get carried away. As the interface standards and power delivery evolve its just easier to buy plug-in chargers for the newer standards. Even a device as simple as the wireless charger for my iPhone 15 requires more amperage than many older USB ports can provide.
 

Danno1

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Oct 16, 2014
Messages
1,422
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Mass. Northshore/Merrimack Valley
Not sure if I want to do anything to the floor. I thought about swisstrax or similar but I’ll be doing some heavy work on a lift in the 3rd stall. Engine pulls, suspension refreshes, etc. So that’s out. I haven’t explored epoxy much but everyone I’ve talked to has said to just keep it concrete with the work I want to do. Definitely interested in counter arguments though.


Definitely epoxy the floor. Do not use flakes. They look good in pictures but smaller dropped hardware becomes hard to find.

A decade of working on bare concrete will have so much oil soaked in that you'll get filthy just walking on it. Epoxy not only cleans up spills easier but even just sweeping is much easier.

I used an industrial epoxy fr Ben Moore. It was pricy but is still there 20 years later.

.
 
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