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Hex Keys - The Whole Story

KnurledNut

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I have mostly Bondhus for ball end, but my pet peeve is hex socket bits. I have suffered with reasonable service with a few brands, but when faced with really silly overtorque for stuck fasteners, my go to is Proto. I have 5/8 UNC SHCS punch clamping bolts in my press brake and they get horribly stuck. I have had 2 x 200 lb adult males applying max force on the 2 sides of a 3/4 tee handle with cheaters. The 1/2 x 1/2 Proto socket held up while breaking 3/4 x 1/2 impact adapter and on another bending the T bar handles No other tool I have found can do that. My biggest disappointment is that nobody seems to make a 3/4 drive 1/2 in bit
If you want some good stuff, check out White Industrial.
They are a small scale manufacturer in Akron, OH. USA.
Set #PS5224 includes 1/2". Might contact them and see if they would sell it individually.
https://whiteindtool.com/index.php/about/
https://www.amazon.com/WHITE-3-DRIVE-ALLEN-BIT-SET/dp/B07J1VTBY9/?tag=atomicindus08-20
51ir5d3JIfL._AC_SL1276_.jpg
 
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KnurledNut

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I have the Wise power handle, which is a wrench extender and torque amplifier for hex keys.
Its my understanding Wise keys are made by Fujiya in Japan, who also makes keys under their own name.
Anyone have experience with either Fujiya or Wise? They seem like very good quality.
The double ball end WBP-2900LL set has caught my eye more than once.
Tony the Technician shared them in this video (starts at 4:20):

1749404826313.png
 
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Dave455

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Never used a Fujiya hex key.

I have used their pliers and I’d consider them to be quite good. For the price, very good! I’d be surprised if their hex keys were vastly different.

I think Fujiya own Victor, and their “plus” pliers are about the best finished out there, so they are capable of top work.

I’ll add them to the list of Japanese hex keys to try, after Asahi, Eight, and Tone.

I have to say that the Fujiya hex keys must be quite rare. I’ve never even seen one, so rarer than Asahi or Eight, and they’re not thick on the ground.
 

Etchase

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I always feel guilty using a ball end. You really shouldn’t. And it is a bad design if you have to.
 

134k

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I admittedly am addicted to collecting hex key sets as well. But when you work on machines a lot, you use hex keys daily. Since using Wera hex keys, with the Hex Plus design, I haven't found anything close to matching it's function. At least until now. MAC Tools has their RBRT hex design, which in my opinion bests the Wera keys in removing stripped/damaged heads. I don't know if Facom has a similar OGV key set, although I haven't found one since the whole GripEdge tools debacle. 1000002082.jpeg
 

KnurledNut

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Never used a Fujiya hex key.

I have used their pliers and I’d consider them to be quite good. For the price, very good! I’d be surprised if their hex keys were vastly different.

I think Fujiya own Victor, and their “plus” pliers are about the best finished out there, so they are capable of top work.

I’ll add them to the list of Japanese hex keys to try, after Asahi, Eight, and Tone.

I have to say that the Fujiya hex keys must be quite rare. I’ve never even seen one, so rarer than Asahi or Eight, and they’re not thick on the ground.
I would like to try the Kurokin line with the parkerized finish and gold power handle. Looks like I can get it on eBay from Japan for $55 shipped. Not prohibitively expensive.
https://www.fujiya-kk.com/en/products/918/

But I am similarly pretty well set on standard L-keys even though they are consumables. I am lacking a double ball set like those by Snap-on, Bondhus, and the Wise set above, so they are more on my radar.
 

F-22

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I have a set of the new Vessel drivers with some sort of a wera-esque hex-plus design. I think they took the concept too far as the keys tend to wedge themselves in the hex head - but maybe better if the screw is a bit worn out already.

Overall I agree I like PB the most but Wera is really nice too. Just wish they had a knurled model instead of the rainbow sleeves and that they improved their holder a bit.

I am in search of a nice torx driver. The ball end looks really useful. I think I will go with wera for that.
 

RoninB4

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-An interesting design from Mac in the RBRT offering. There are other methods for removing a damaged SHCS with a regular hex key but this design looks like it might work with less fuss than my methods. I wouldn't think this design would allow the fastener to be re-used but that's not what it's advertised for. We at Eklind experimented with a design that "bit" into the hex opening but decided that wasn't a strong selling point for the ball drivers.
 
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Dave455

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I have a set of the new Vessel drivers with some sort of a wera-esque hex-plus design. I think they took the concept too far as the keys tend to wedge themselves in the hex head - but maybe better if the screw is a bit worn out already.

Overall I agree I like PB the most but Wera is really nice too. Just wish they had a knurled model instead of the rainbow sleeves and that they improved their holder a bit.

I am in search of a nice torx driver. The ball end looks really useful. I think I will go with wera for that.
I haven’t seen the new Vessel yet.

My gut feeling is that the profile on the Wera is hard to beat. It works well but it’s gentle on the screw head.

The tools I use most, day to day, are PB Swiss backed up by Wera (although I’ve got Bondhus / Eklind on my bench for machine tool work).

Yes, I’m in agreement regarding the coloured sleeves. I don’t think they are particularly durable and I’d be happier with the same shape key (I do like the oversize round shanks) less the sleeves.

This is essentially what you get with the stainless keys.IMG_1851.jpeg

The Wera ball end works very well. Only the Wiha is comparable, but I wouldn’t take new Wiha over Wera.
 
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Dave455

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-An interesting design from Mac in the RBRT offering. There are other methods for removing a damaged SHCS with a regular hex key but this design looks like it might work with less fuss than my methods. I wouldn't think this design would allow the fastener to be re-used but that's not what it's advertised for. We at Eklind experimented with a design that "bit" into the hex opening but decided that wasn't a strong selling point for the ball drivers.
I pretty much concluded that the RBRT was a “specialist” tool. Something to have for emergencies - perhaps the cap screw equivalent of a screw extractor - rather then general use.

The problem I have found, is that often when the hex recess is really messed up it’s because the screw is seized. In these circumstances you’re probably going to twist the bit before the screw loosens anyway, so you might as well proceed direct to the next option!
 

RoninB4

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The problem I have found, is that often when the hex recess is really messed up it’s because the screw is seized. In these circumstances you’re probably going to twist the bit before the screw loosens anyway,
-Most likely correct that the threads themselves have seized (unless someone too lazy to replace a worn SHCS) and backing it out will result in a mangled tool or the fastener head just twists off.
so you might as well proceed direct to the next option!
-When working on a 25 ton injection mold we offer a silent invocation to the mechanical deities and hope for the best before beheading. The mag-drill and notification to production of the delay is the next step.:willy_nil
 
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Dave455

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-Most likely correct that the threads themselves have seized (unless someone too lazy to replace a worn SHCS) and backing it out will result in a mangled tool or the fastener head just twists off.

-When working on a 25 ton injection mold we offer a silent invocation to the mechanical deities and hope for the best before beheading. The mag-drill and notification to production of the delay is the next step.:willy_nil
The most common time I encounter this problem is removing brake discs (rotors).

Mini’s seem to be by far the worst. The screw recess is a Torx, which is totally the wrong recess for a countersunk screw, as you will either end up making it too small, or too shallow. They opted for the latter.

They made the screws too soft as well. And also slightly triangular, presumably in an attempt to make them shake resistant, but they just ended up making them removal resistant. And they Loctite them in for good measure…

I have a supply of cheap bits on hand, and after one removal attempt generally weld one in.

It’s all so unnecessary as the screw only holds the disc on while you bolt the wheel in place. I don’t know what the designers think it does.

I recut the threads then replace the screw with a more suitable grade of hex head screw, generally chrome plated, of which I keep supplies in my stores. And of course apply anti seize…
IMG_1856.jpeg
 

KnurledNut

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My go-to in the shop are T-handles. I have long bare loop handle Eklind before the hardness change. These are fractional and in the old original metal stand. The working end was shear cut at the factory which isn’t cosmetically appealing but doesn’t affect performance as they are square. More importantly, the steel is incredibly tough and resists wear.
Sitting next to those is a Bondhus stand with metric long rubber coated bar steel handle Urrea USA T-handles. I am not sure if these are Eklind or Bondhus made. I bought this set new and they have performed well.
I like starting with these to remove a fastener because the extra length will wind up and gives an indication of how tight it is. If it’s putting up a fight, I can better gauge what tool and method to aide removal before damaging it.
Obviously these don’t fit everywhere but I do tend to grab them first.
In the field, I keep short and long bits with a variety of drive options. L-keys are secondary and in some applications, job specific.
 

Odd-job

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This thread helps me reinforce that I really don't have hex key obsession and its normalized... think I own almost all of the referenced hex keys for working on bikes and for some reason this thread has a lot of the same folks who post on the the bicycle specialty tool thread...

Anyways just want to say the knurled pb swiss keys are still the ones I reach for first. No discernible wear after two years of moderate use. The feel of these in the hand are just confidence inspiring especially with the SK like knurling. I am still waiting for PB swiss to get with the times though. They have no hex plus or RBRT equivalent. Anyone have the part number for those new vessels?
 

four.cycle

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I know many of you will want to see me burned at the stake for heresy, but:
About the only time I'm in need of a hex key is if I'm fixing a faucet or assembing some "IKEA" furniture for somebody. I'm not using these in industrial, high-torque, multi-fastener situations. Good enough is good enough.
Formerly, I had all my hex keys in a quart-size zip-lock bag - always took me longer to find the right size than to perform the task at hand. Now they all have their own little place, and I can find what I'm looking for. Not sure who the lucky recipient of all the bulk ones was - Blake or Don? :headscrat
Tekton 25253 30 pc hex key set.jpg

Tekton 25253 30-pc Metric and SAE hex key set - just under $25 bucks with the freight.

I suppose if any of those failed, I could always bring out the big artillery:

Allen Mfg. Co. No. 603 hex key set.jpg
Allen Mfg. Co., Hartford, CT 603 hex key set
 

Pexto

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The problem I have found, is that often when the hex recess is really messed up it’s because the screw is seized. In these circumstances you’re probably going to twist the bit before the screw loosens anyway, so you might as well proceed direct to the next option!
I'll offer a mild counterpoint here, having worked in several bicycle repair shops. It's quite common to find hex screws on bicycles where the recess is damaged but the threads are fine. This is usually because the owner worked on it themselves first; perhaps with a SAE wrench on a metric fastener, perhaps with a poorly-made wrench that wasn't fully seated, perhaps just general hamfistedness.

Standard procedure is to tap a hex key (or better, a bit socket) into the offending fastener with a small deadblow hammer. Sometimes the Wera profile works well, other times a standard hex key works where the Wera doesn't.
 

RoninB4

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My go-to in the shop are T-handles. I have long bare loop handle Eklind before the hardness change.
-If you're sure of the hardness difference then those are pre 1995 or so.
These are fractional and in the old original metal stand. The working end was shear cut at the factory which isn’t cosmetically appealing but doesn’t affect performance as they are square.
-The ends are sheared because the material is fed into the press off a large coil and must be cut to length, the "L's" are cut, bent 90°, and stamped (size and brand) in one stroke of the press. It's quite likely that all brands are made the same way as it's an efficient method for mass production as long as the shear station of the die is kept sharp and the die clearance is correct. Some makers will add a secondary operation to clean up the ends but Eklind considered that an unnecessary operation that added cost to the price point. Same thing for the ball ends. I originally programmed the ball end to have a clean-up cut at the tip but was directed to omit the clean-up to decrease the cycle time. OK, you sign my paycheck so....
More importantly, the steel is incredibly tough and resists wear.
-It was IMO a better grade of steel (8650 IIRC), they just didn't get all they could have out of it due to liability exposure I've recounted in other threads. I have no idea what they're using now or what other makers are using, there were only a couple of steel suppliers extruding that steel in hex coils back then in the US. There was also a brief period when a competitor cornered the market of our supply, attempting to cripple the supply to Eklind and we had to buy a different type of steel on the spot market to stay in business. It was more than the usual cut throat business tactics, there was a personal grudge between the VP's at both companies. Most outsiders never hear of these tactics or the industrial espionage that's fairly commonplace in many companies.
 
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RoninB4

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The most common time I encounter this problem is removing brake discs (rotors).
-I've altered more than a few fasteners that hold the brake rotors in for having trouble with them too. Sometimes I'll alter the fastener, sometimes the counterbore, or both. I don't like struggling with an OEM decision either if I can do something about it for the next time.
Mini’s seem to be by far the worst.
-Haven't had the pleasure of working on one.
The screw recess is a Torx,
-Aside from using them to hold carbide cutting inserts in the holders I think that Torx sux for many applications I've seen them in.
which is totally the wrong recess for a countersunk screw, as you will either end up making it too small, or too shallow. They opted for the latter.
-Another excellent choice made by those that have never worked with the consequences of their own decisions. Hooray for theoretical benefit overriding practicality, hope it was red Loctite for your further enjoyment. :rolleyes:
 
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Private Lugnutz

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Many of Dad’s hex keys were “Unbrako”.
Do you happen to have any packaging, Dave? Or know the backstory? I see the "- ENGLAND -" marking, but I have to say, I had no idea that UNBRAKO brand safety head cap screw and keys were ever made anywhere but the US. I am wondering if Standard Pressed Steel - the name of the US company who manufactured them, opened a factory in England, when, and where. My guess would be shortly after WWII.
Funny thing but I am a hex key hoarder, and I thought unbrako was American made company?
Rest assured, Woody, you have not gone soft in the head. Yet. The safety head hex cap screws and keys that would eventually be known by the UNBRAKO name were made by Standard Pressed Steel in Jenkintown, PA since 1911. They trademarked the name on March 7, 1933, and their application claimed first use of that name as June 1, 1920. The name of the company was changed from SPS to Unbrako in 2008. I don't know the circumstances of the production in England implied by Dave's hex keys, but I am now just as curious as you.
 
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Dave455

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Do you happen to have any packaging, Dave? Or know the backstory? I see the "- ENGLAND -" marking, but I have to say, I had no idea that UNBRAKO brand safety head cap screw and keys were ever made anywhere but the US. I am wondering if Standard Pressed Steel - the name of the US company who manufactured them, opened a factory in England, when, and where. My guess would be shortly after WWII.

The short answers are “no” and “not much”.

Unbrako was one of those names that’s always been around, and until I really got into tools I would have assumed they were British.

Yes, Standard Pressed Steel was the name of the company, and ”Unbrako” the brand name. I can recall seeing “SPS” on the packaging.

Standard Pressed Steel did have a factory in the U.K. I can’t tell you when it opened, but I was gifted some pre war (late 30’s) aviation magazines and there are Unbrako ads in there, for a “British made” product.

The main factory was in Burnaby Road, Coventry. I’m not sure exactly where, but there was a sizeable factory building there in the early 2000’s that could have been it.

Manufacturing was gradually transferred to a site in Ireland and I suspect that the factory closed in the 70’s, although Unbrako still have a presence in Coventry, not far away. I believe they once had an operation in Sheffield too.

Packaging I can recall are sets of keys in metal tins, something like drill indexes. I never owned any but they were very standard in British workshops. I can’t remember the colour as they were usually open

Smaller sets came in plastic wallets, colour coded red and green. I remember seeing those in shops.

Later on, the sets were packed in grey tins, with a painted orange panel on the front. This was probably about the time they switched from red to grey boxes for their screws.
 

Jack Ryan

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The name of the company was changed from SPS to Unbrako in 2008.

Company DFL historical extract

1958:
Deepak Fasteners is established with two manual nut manufacturing machines in Ludhiana (India) By Kailash Chander Kalra

2008:
Acquired the brands Unbrako®, Durlok® & Sel-lok® from SPS Technologies, along with the Shannon (Ireland) manufacturing unit & the Melbourne (Australia) Warehouse. Shannon plant today also serves as Distribution and Engineering Support Centre.

Jack
 

Private Lugnutz

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I have no plans to bogart the thread with vintage stuff, but if Dave will indulge me a little longer, the grimey military OD canvas pouch in the photo below is packed with UNBRAKO, as is the 1950's MILSPEC Hex-E-Case.

But it's that black case at the bottom, made by Dorman Products, yes, the maker of extremely orange and extremely popular small parts cabinets, that I am going to pimp. Just imagine a time when men carried their little hex key kits around in a leather snap pouch with a handsomely marbled holder inside.
 

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Private Lugnutz

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Okay, one more. A hex key speeder or spinner. Granted, I don't buy too many modern tools, and maybe I have lived a deprived life, but I have never seen a modern equivalent to this. I guess a tee-handle with a rotating grip would be the closest thing. That handle on the end freely swivels. Very handy! Not marked and I have not been able to track down the manufacturer. Maybe shop made in a factory. Something for repetitive assembly. I imagine it came in multiple sizes.
 

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Private Lugnutz

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According to the Deepak site, they bought the plant in Shannon, Ireland in 2008 when they bought SPS. It was originally opened by SPS in 1960 "to produce metric products for the European market."
 

dutchgray

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-Made in Ireland, interesting. Price is a bit ambitious for fasteners even if they are "vintage".
Those boxes are hex keys, in bulk and yes that's the later Irish production in grey boxes.
Some on Ebay have the fasteners listed for a few pounds each or for a small quantity, sometimes part boxes for £10 ~ £20.
 

Private Lugnutz

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Those are insightful sets on the topic of Unbrako history, Don. Notice how similar they are in contents, right down to the layout and style of the pouches. But the logos are different. Older and modern. If one looked hard enough, one could probably date them by that.
 
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Dave455

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I have no plans to bogart the thread with vintage stuff, but if Dave will indulge me a little longer, the grimey military OD canvas pouch in the photo below is packed with UNBRAKO, as is the 1950's MILSPEC Hex-E-Case.

But it's that black case at the bottom, made by Dorman Products, yes, the maker of extremely orange and extremely popular small parts cabinets, that I am going to pimp. Just imagine a time when men carried their little hex key kits around in a leather snap pouch with a handsomely marbled holder inside.
Feel free!

Love those vintage holders.
 
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Dave455

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interesting comparison
Very interesting.

While there are significant, but small, differences between the flat end hex keys, it’s becoming apparent that the biggest differences are in the ball end - some offering strength, some a high working angle, some other features.

Worryingly for me, despite having hex keys from a dozen different manufacturers, there are still some major ones I haven‘t tried, some of which might even be the most suitable for some applications.

I can’t believe I’ve been so casual in my hex key choices…
 
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Dave455

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I suppose if any of those failed, I could always bring out the big artillery:

Allen Mfg. Co. No. 603 hex key set.jpg
Allen Mfg. Co., Hartford, CT 603 hex key set

I had to look at those twice to check I really saw what I thought I saw!

You never know when you’re going to need a big hex key - I was once gifted a substantial safe - provided I could shift it. It was bolted to a concrete floor with I think a one inch cap screw about 8 inches long.

Thankfully I had the right (3/4 I think) hex key and the safe now resides in my shop!
 
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dutchgray

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I had to look at those twice to check I really saw what I thought I saw!

You never know when you’re going to need a big hex key - I was once gifted a substantial safe - provided I could shift it. It was bolted to a concrete floor with I think a one inch cap screw about 8 inches long.

Thankfully I had the right (3/4 I think) hex key and the safe now resides in my shop!
I need to check but I think my largest hex keys are a pair of 30mm ones.
 
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