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How to protect the concrete floor during construction

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Oct 30, 2024
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I am building a 2900 sqft. stick built (2x6) garage with radiant floor heating pex/boiler. I will have concrete walls/footer 36" deep with and 6" slab 16' walls, I want to protect the concrete floors (sealed) after the pour and during building construction. I have heard using cardboard to 1/8 plywood over the surface can be used to minimize the damage done during construction, while allowing the concrete to "breath". Any experiences or suggestions? Thanks

Jay
 
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mike93lx

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Ram board is extra thick cardboard. Covering that large of an area is going to get expensive.
Maybe some of the large tarps made from old billboard signs?
I agree with the others on waiting but if that isn't doable, ram board (or a store brand equivalent is what I'd likely do). Ram board is 42 mil and would be about $800 plus tape and time. HD's 20 mil would cost about half that.

I wouldn't put tarps down as they can shift and be slippery. One slip and fall will cost a lot more than the materials cost difference.
 
OP
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Use stem wall construction.

Build garage 100% first

Trades work off gravel sub grade

Pour slab when the idiots are done and gone.

🤷
Stick built, and I have already signed contracts, I cannot build a post building here unfortunately. Just trying to make the best of my situation and will have to cover the concrete.
 

mike93lx

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Thanks, I have my concrete contractor coming out today, I will enquire. Thanks
I am guessing he was planning to do them close together, so he doesn't have to mobilize equipment 2x, so be ready for that argument.

With 16' heights, they're likely going to want to use scissor lifts and/or rolling scaffolding, so the other trades will want concrete instead of gravel.
 
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+1000 form Ram Board
I copied and pasted for recommendations for Ram Board, This will have to be outdoor for days while the build is going on. I am looking for something made or useable for outdoor use.

It is not typically recommended for outdoor use. It's designed for temporary, dry-location floor protection during construction or renovation. The Ram Board is a heavy-duty paperboard, and exposure to moisture, rain, or snow can cause it to degrade or break down, according to The Home Depot. For outdoor floor protection, consider using exterior-grade materials like plastic sheeting or other waterproof options.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
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I am guessing he was planning to do them close together, so he doesn't have to mobilize equipment 2x, so be ready for that argument.

With 16' heights, they're likely going to want to use scissor lifts and/or rolling scaffolding, so the other trades will want concrete instead of gravel.
Yeah good points, I will most likely just have to protect the concrete the best way I can, but I will still float the idea to my concrete contractor, about pouring the floor later. It's always good get have some ideas and options.
 

duneslider

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I sort of feel like GJ has created this unrealistic level of expectation when it comes to concrete. I suspect in a few weeks we will have a post on here about how terrible your concrete is and how to fix it.

At the end of the day, the concrete won't be perfect no matter who does it. No matter what protection you put down it won't be perfect when its done. Really though, what is going to happen to the floor that is going to "damage it" so bad you have a real problem. Now, sure ask the drywall guys to put some protection down to limit the amount of mud dropped on it. Have the painters mask off the the floor to keep paint off it. Other than that, what is really going to hurt the floor. You will still need to clean it, or more before any final flooring. Concrete is pretty darn durable and for any garage that will be worked in, it will show a little use.
 
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I agree with the others on waiting but if that isn't doable, ram board (or a store brand equivalent is what I'd likely do). Ram board is 42 mil and would be about $800 plus tape and time. HD's 20 mil would cost about half that.

I wouldn't put tarps down as they can shift and be slippery. One slip and fall will cost a lot more than the materials cost difference.
Thanks, I have been looking for used Luan plywood but so far nothing local. It has to be weather proof too.
You can still pour the floor later. It will be a separate pour from the foundation and walls
Met with my contractor and he said the issue with a separate pour is my property, I have two buildings, and a swimming pool and it's being built between them. He only had one way in for the pumper truck, so would be very difficult if the building is constructed first. So I will do my best to protect the floor. Thanks
 
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OP
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I sort of feel like GJ has created this unrealistic level of expectation when it comes to concrete. I suspect in a few weeks we will have a post on here about how terrible your concrete is and how to fix it.

At the end of the day, the concrete won't be perfect no matter who does it. No matter what protection you put down it won't be perfect when its done. Really though, what is going to happen to the floor that is going to "damage it" so bad you have a real problem. Now, sure ask the drywall guys to put some protection down to limit the amount of mud dropped on it. Have the painters mask off the the floor to keep paint off it. Other than that, what is really going to hurt the floor. You will still need to clean it, or more before any final flooring. Concrete is pretty darn durable and for any garage that will be worked in, it will show a little use.
The concrete contractor advised the damage comes from construction equipment and or machinery being dragged or dropped. He agreed the three pour (1. Footer 2. Wall, then construction and finally the floor being poured would be the best way to protect the concreted from being scarred up. But I don't have that option because I am building between two buildings and a pool. So back to doing my best to protect the floor. Thanks
 
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duneslider

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Yeah, right now I am looking at $100K over budget. I am pretty sure some of it will be used as they finish sheeting which will be this week.
100k over on a garage? I'm not even sure how someone could quote it that bad. I started building my house right as covid was starting and pricing went through the roof and we only ended up about 100k over what we thought. Is this really quoted that bad, or is there some feature creep going on?

When I built my house I had planned on doing epoxy in my garage before moving in but lumber pricing took my epoxy budget, still don't have epoxy in the garage and at this point with everything moved in I just don't care to make it happen now.
 

Armorpoxy

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A good solution to your problem since you moved in would be to use the spray-on Coval System which we carry and do that in sections since it is clear and you can easily overlap it and it gives great protection at an economical price.
 

floatinghat

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A good solution to your problem since you moved in would be to use the spray-on Coval System which we carry and do that in sections since it is clear and you can easily overlap it and it gives great protection at an economical price.

I will take a look, can the floor be ground or burished first? I haven't moved in yet
 

floatinghat

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100k over on a garage? I'm not even sure how someone could quote it that bad. I started building my house right as covid was starting and pricing went through the roof and we only ended up about 100k over what we thought. Is this really quoted that bad, or is there some feature creep going on?

When I built my house I had planned on doing epoxy in my garage before moving in but lumber pricing took my epoxy budget, still don't have epoxy in the garage and at this point with everything moved in I just don't care to make it happen now.

We had an additional $30K in excavation expense and the contractor under estimated labor. Construction is expensive in my area, I hope to be done for $300/sqft at this point. That is with me doing the electrical and now plumbing. But none of that is a basic job. I will have hot and cold water to 3 exterior wall / cold to the 4th. loads (no pun) of circuits and lighting.
 
OP
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The concrete is complete and looks great. I told the concrete contractor not to worry about a smooooth finish as it will be ground after construction. I have decided to have the floor coated in Poly Urea with a coat of Poly Aspartic after full broadcast. Now the GC can work without me trying to protect the floor. I have two drains and it will be connected to the downspouts. I also have a Frenchshop build 1.jpg drain type of system to keep the water issues to a minimum. Thanks for all suggestions.
 

mike93lx

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The concrete is complete and looks great. I told the concrete contractor not to worry about a smooooth finish as it will be ground after construction. I have decided to have the floor coated in Poly Urea with a coat of Poly Aspartic after full broadcast. Now the GC can work without me trying to protect the floor. I have two drains and it will be connected to the downspouts. I also have a Frenchshop build 1.jpg drain type of system to keep the water issues to a minimum. Thanks for all suggestions.
Sweet!
 

ducatithunder

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Annapolis-ish, MD
Be careful when you tape your floor covering down. Painters tape and other HD tapes have a knack for having the adhesive leaching out and you will not be able to remove it. This is an issue alot with polished floors in homes. I had the issue when I taped out bench/cabinet and equipment locations in my garage. Went to pull up tape and the lines were ghosted into the power troweled surface.
 
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