Help in identifying an older MATCO 2 Stage Compressor

[Geriatricknowitall]

Hello,
I have an older MATCO Air Command 5 hp 2 stage compressor with an 80 gallon tank and am looking for some info on the unit.

It came with the property we purchased and was running fine for the last five years here, but now is suffering from an air leak at the front of the compressor unit itself.

The color of the unit tank is dark blue with a red, blue and white "Matco Air Command" shield shaped sticker on the tank featuring an Eagle(?).

The sticker that I would normally refer to when ordering parts is badly chewed up and the only redeeming info is the serial number, which is P1765199.

The model number is worn off.

Any help on identifying this unit and obtaining parts and operators manuals would be most appreciated.

I am especially interested in knowing the model number of the unit as well as who may have been the original manufacturer.

I thank you for your time and effort in helping me solve this mystery.

 

[RTM]

Here is an 80 gal from 2995 on FBMP, maybe you can clean info from it.

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[MacMcMacmac]

This is our honorable Chinese friend, the LaPlante LP205, aka, Sanborn SC23, aka, a thousand other models numbers.

 

[Geriatricknowitall]

Here is an 80 gal from 2995 on FBMP, maybe you can clean info from it.

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Thanks...I'll check it out! If I had to guess it looks newer than the one I have and the pump unit is definitely different but there certainly could be info that is useful.

 

[Geriatricknowitall]

This is our honorable Chinese friend, the LaPlante LP205, aka, Sanborn SC23, aka, a thousand other models numbers.

Trains are the workhorses in the supply network ever since their creation...loved them since childhood.

As a Contractor for many years, I have suffered "eye bleeds" from inadvertent exposure to "plumbers' crack"...

 

[kams1973]

It’s a Saylor Beall 705 or a 705 Import pump. If the hardware on the pump is metric, it’s an import.

 

[Geriatricknowitall]

Thanks kams, that helps a lot!
It started leaking air around the release valve located on the front centrifugal unloader assembly.
Is the release valve worn or is it something else internally?
The compressor still runs but won't shut off due to the leakage.
I'll check whether the hardware is SAE or Metric tomorrow.

 

[Geriatricknowitall]

Thank you all....I am in the process of contacting manufacturers for literature concerning this pump so I can get a rebuild kit.
I think going through this thing would be worth it versus replacement!?...like I said it still runs, just has a leak right at the copper tubing area on that front housing to the left of the oil level window.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

That blow down valve is a simple Schrader type valve that is operated by a flyweight governor inside the conical cover. If it leaks continuously it has either failed, or it is screwed in too far and can't seal properly. Since it was working OK, the seal inside it must have quit. It should not be expensive to replace. There is a little trial and error to set the new one to the proper depth in the case, but it's a trivial job.

Being pig headed, I'd probably disassemble it and try to make a new seal,but why bother? A question I should ask myself more often.

Long shot is one of the fly weights has jammed and is holding the valve open.

 

[Geriatricknowitall]

That blow down valve is a simple Schrader type valve that is operated by a flyweight governor inside the conical cover. If it leaks continuously it has either failed, or it is screwed in too far and can't seal properly. Since it was working OK, the seal inside it must have quit. It should not be expensive to replace. There is a little trial and error to set the new one to the proper depth in the case, but it's a trivial job.

Being pig headed, I'd probably disassemble it and try to make a new seal,but why bother? A question I should ask myself more often.

Long shot is one of the fly weights has jammed and is holding the valve open.

Mac,

Can't thank you enough for your most recent bit of wisdom. I will attempt to dismantle and inspect the valve seal.

While I am at it, I'll change the oil (? proper viscosity, amount and type ?), clean the air filter and check everything else, IE: belt and belt tension and the other valve (pressure relief?) inserted directly in the side of the tank.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Any oil formulated for a compressor will be fine. Barring that, a straight weight non detergent oil is acceptable. Avoid multigrade mineral engine oil as it will carbon foul valves. 20w or 30w is good.

I wouldnt bother rebuilding it if it isnt knocking or passing lots of oil. At most, i'd pull the valves and check the bores for scoring and piston crowns for excessive amounts of oil. Maybe I'd buy a head overhaul kit and do the valves, since valve springs were a bit weak in these pumps.

 

[Geriatricknowitall]

Any oil formulated for a compressor will be fine. Barring that, a straight weight non detergent oil is acceptable. Avoid multigrade mineral engine oil as it will carbon foul valves. 20w or 30w is good.

I wouldnt bother rebuilding it if it isnt knocking or passing lots of oil. At most, i'd pull the valves and check the bores for scoring and piston crowns for excessive amounts of oil. Maybe I'd buy a head overhaul kit and do the valves, since valve springs were a bit weak in these pumps.

Thanks again Mac,

My Wife went out to the garage to get something out of the freezer and when she returned said the compressor seemed to be running continuously, that's when I discovered the leak around the valve.

The garage is detached and some distance from the house as it was once a separate lot, so one can only guess how long it could have been running for.

In the five years I have been using it to do things like fluid filming the vehicles or sandblasting small parts, the oil level remained constant.

But after the recent incident that has sidelined the use of this unit, I did notice the oil level had dropped considerably.

I did top it off with some compressor oil for my wheelbarrow unit just to diagnose where the problem was but I have not run it since.

Is there a general reference guide somewhere that details the steps necessary for a rebuild on a pump similar to this?

It does not "knock" but the "one time" oil consumption has me a bit concerned.

Thanks again Mac, your input is appreciated.