porch addition 3

[billconner]

Working on guard railing around porch. A little over 80'. We liked a system with horizontal round bars but really expensive, so came up with my own. My question is if you have used galvanized pipe for exterior railings, are you pleased with the result?

 

[The Cobbler]

I'm not one to say that I like the cosmetic looks of galvanized . I would rather it be painted black

 

[billconner]

Not easy to get durable coatings on galvanized steel. I'd find something else before trying to paint galvanized. Kind of spoils the no maintenance virtue of it as well.

The purchase system seemed to be anodized aluminum. Also would need center supports every span (12) which the steel pipe doesn't.

But I appreciate your comment. I think I like the industrial look of it.

BTW - all the pipe is around $1500. That's under $20/lf - which is pretty low cost compared to most.

 

[Copymutt]

Given your exposure to water you might like this as an alternative.
Mexican grade copper pipe stuffed w/ rebar. Did this on a 2nd story porch & the patina was worth big praise.

 

[billconner]

Will check it out. The pieces of steel pipe were attractive partly because most of my runs are about 6 1/2 feet - just 3 pieces from every piece of pipe and little waste. I suppose the copper has some scrap value.

 

[The Cobbler]

Not easy to get durable coatings on galvanized steel. I'd find something else before trying to paint galvanized.

no one said anything about painting the galvanized coating

 

[jack stand]

Bill recently I saw galvanized hog panels used in this situation. I was rather impressed with the appearance and especially the use of an agricultural product that didn't have the normal "trendy architectural fad" price tag!
Just a thought for an alternate where 80' wouldn't kill ya. ($)

 

[billconner]

I had looked at that - with a top and bottom wood rail - sandwich - and similar on porch posts. I will review again. But with the wood holding it maintenance increases. One of the things I liked about the pipe was no maintenance. I was even thinking of making what I called flanges of PVC and attaching them with screws and the cupped washers.

I'll see if I can find a PVC "channel" that would frame the hog wire panels.

Thanks for resurrecting an idea.

 

[75gmck25]

I've seen a lot of newer railings where they used galvanized wire and tensioners as the horizontal pieces, instead of your pipe. It's common enough to be considered up-scale for new construction, so maybe they have entire assemblies that you put together.

 

[coldh2o]

No comment on the pipe itself - but in Ontario horizontal railings aren't to code. No climbable elements allowed (other than top and bottom rail).

 

[Hooked]

Bill recently I saw galvanized hog panels used in this situation. I was rather impressed with the appearance and especially the use of an agricultural product that didn't have the normal "trendy architectural fad" price tag!
Just a thought for an alternate where 80' wouldn't kill ya. ($)

We did this at a nephew's ranch cabin on all porches and love the look. We didn't make a channel in the rails but rather cut the panels such that we marked and drilled holes in the rails to match the wire ends. A little more effort/time but looks nice and no channel to fill up with 'stuff' on the bottom.

 

[duneslider]

I had looked at that - with a top and bottom wood rail - sandwich - and similar on porch posts. I will review again. But with the wood holding it maintenance increases. One of the things I liked about the pipe was no maintenance. I was even thinking of making what I called flanges of PVC and attaching them with screws and the cupped washers.

I'll see if I can find a PVC "channel" that would frame the hog wire panels.

Thanks for resurrecting an idea.

Wild Hog makes a black aluminum track that fits the hog panel. They also sell black hog panel. I used it for a fence, in my case I used the wood as the top and bottom rails and used the aluminum track but you could use whatever you wanted as the top and bottom rails if wood isn't the look you want. It isn't "cheap" but I found it less expensive than paying someone to do my fence and it was easy to use. In my area both Home Depot and Lowes carry it.

 

[firebirdparts]

I think a vinyl channel that would work for that would sag. All the factory-job vinyl stuff is propped up at the midpoint.

 

[billconner]

We did this at a nephew's ranch cabin on all porches and love the look. We didn't make a channel in the rails but rather cut the panels such that we marked and drilled holes in the rails to match the wire ends. A little more effort/time but looks nice and no channel to fill up with 'stuff' on the bottom.

Well, with 12 sections, a lot.

I'm reticent to have the wires into my floor as it makes clearing snow tough. My bottom rail is only about 2" above floor and really looking forward to just under 4" to push snow and leaves off.

I'm not too keen on bottom channel as it would seem to collect water and dirt. I could leave it unframed at bottom but worry about the snow shovel striking it. Not sure how stiff it is. Most spans are in the 6' range, but 2 at 8' and hoped to avoid middle posts.

And I 12 panels in the 3'x6' size range, it's one bucket load of holes to drill. And posts are there so how much does it flex to get in holes at either side? Can't say getting rail to sit on it and line up holes is appealing.

@coldh2o - US had the climbable prohibition in codes but went away. I think any kid that can climb a railing can just pull themselves over. Research showed no evidence of it being a hazard. It's was a perception of a danger rather than a statistical reality.

Still thinking and listening. Thank you all.

 

[Hooked]

Well, with 12 sections, a lot.

I'm reticent to have the wires into my floor as it makes clearing snow tough. My bottom rail is only about 2" above floor and really looking forward to just under 4" to push snow and leaves off.

I'm not too keen on bottom channel as it would seem to collect water and dirt. I could leave it unframed at bottom but worry about the snow shovel striking it. Not sure how stiff it is. Most spans are in the 6' range, but 2 at 8' and hoped to avoid middle posts.

And I 12 panels in the 3'x6' size range, it's one bucket load of holes to drill. And posts are there so how much does it flex to get in holes at either side? Can't say getting rail to sit on it and line up holes is appealing.

@coldh2o - US had the climbable prohibition in codes but went away. I think any kid that can climb a railing can just pull themselves over. Research showed no evidence of it being a hazard. It's was a perception of a danger rather than a statistical reality.

Still thinking and listening. Thank you all.

I think we had 7 sections about 8'x30" so you would have a little more drilling. All the holes were drilled in the top and bottom rails, none on the side posts but, the panels are plenty flexible. There are different size openings on the panels, 4"x4", 6"x6" etc. We used either 6x6 or 8x8, don't recall which.

If you take the approach to drill the holes in the posts it would reduce considerably the amount of drilling required and make it easier to mark the holes, assuming you use a bottom rail.

We set the rail height so when sitting on the porch the top rail didn't block our view of the wildlife. We used 2x6 rough cut cedar for the rails and placed a short block of it mid-way under the bottom rail. With the 6' spacing I see no need for that block. Bottom rail space wasn't an issue since snow around there isn't a problem.

 

[billconner]

Bringing this back. Have decided on painted wood. No standard parts I can find for look I want. Looking at (actual) 4 1/2" x 2 or 2 1/4" top rail, something larger than 2" x 2" spindles, and a 4 1/2" x 2" or so bottom rail. Painted.

I can get rough saw and kiln dried cedar, pretty clear, from a small hardwood mill near me. Have table saw, planer, joiner, and more. Any better options than cedar?

 

[jar944]

Bringing this back. Have decided on painted wood. No standard parts I can find for look I want. Looking at (actual) 4 1/2" x 2 or 2 1/4" top rail, something larger than 2" x 2" spindles, and a 4 1/2" x 2" or so bottom rail. Painted.

I can get rough saw and kiln dried cedar, pretty clear, from a small hardwood mill near me. Have table saw, planer, joiner, and more. Any better options than cedar?

Black locust, sapele, white oak or if you are a big spender accoya.

Low maintenance would be pvc milled to whatever profiles you wanted