Normally when the boss asks you to write a job description, it's a good time to start writing a resume and CV. In my case, it's to make them wonder "Who the hell can we hire to do all this"?
I've installed a couple Tow Pro Elites, and they've never come back. Hopefully your vehicle has a built in 7 wire harness. If not, you'll be busy soldering and fishing wires. Didn't skimp on the wire size if you're running your own. One customer did, and I had to swap an entire melted harness out before adding in the correct brake wire.@Metallitubby I am in the planning stages and thinking about installation of a trailer brake for the Ridgeline. Do you have one installed, I'm thinking Redarc.... Thoughts
I've done brake controllers on a couple of Ridgelines. Gen I and II. Get the harness. It was plug and play under the column. There are a variety of controller options.@Metallitubby I am in the planning stages and thinking about installation of a trailer brake for the Ridgeline. Do you have one installed, I'm thinking Redarc.... Thoughts


I run liqui moly fuel stabiliser pretty much non stop,i have 4 carbed bikes so some are sitting for weeks before i take em for a spin. My two oil cooled suzukis are the same way...they fire up on 3cyl,i take em for a ride and load the engine,after like 500 meters 4th cyl kicks in.I got so sick of cleaning out the pilot jets in the Mikuni carburetors on my Yamaha, that I sold the damned thing and have ever since - and forever will be - glad it's gone. If I let that bike sit for more than a coupla weeks, I could be certain it wouldn't fire on both cylinders until I got into those carbs again to clean out the jelled, ethanol-laced, fuel. The more times it happened, the longer the bike sat unused, and the more stupid it seemed to continue having it taking up space.
The Suburban continued it's resistance to a return to service. Dead battery is now crank no start without spark. Did a check of fuses, sensors I touched and other WAGs. No luck need to confirm if coil is throwing spark or not.
Found my missing flare wrench while rotating the tires and bleeding the brakes.


Not that many was left there in November after the lines rusted out on the differentialHow many thousands of miles ago?![]()
But 8 months! Unbelievable its still there.Not that many was left there in November after the lines rusted out on the differential
I run liqui moly fuel stabiliser pretty much non stop,i have 4 carbed bikes so some are sitting for weeks before i take em for a spin. My two oil cooled suzukis are the same way...they fire up on 3cyl,i take em for a ride and load the engine,after like 500 meters 4th cyl kicks in.
He probably did something to the neutral safety switch harness.Spent the day searching for electrical gremlin on my 2004 Arctic cat 400 ATV, last fall I was inspecting a musk rat from my ATV and the little ****** attached himself to the bottom of the ATV , after I shut it off, it never started again. Not sure if it’s related or not. I have no experience with electrical but I learned how to test diodes todayThey were good
I think you your right, the neutral light isn’t coming on anymore unless the kill switch is in the off position which is weird. No power to the green wire to the solenoid. I can’t find the neutral switch but I’m sure I should be able to find the wiring for it, maybeHe probably did something to the neutral safety switch harness.
Most motorcycle neutral safety switch sending units are on the side of the case near the shifter. It will probably look a lot like an oil pressure or temperature sending units. In a lot of cases, it’s just a single green wire.I think you your right, the neutral light isn’t coming on anymore unless the kill switch is in the off position which is weird. No power to the green wire to the solenoid. I can’t find the neutral switch but I’m sure I should be able to find the wiring for it, maybe. I **** at this stuff.
Thank you, I’ve been doing some searching and apparently for the 400 automatic it’s on the other side of the case directly opposite the shifter and on the manual Arctic cat on the shifter side? But I don’t really know much about it and appreciate the input, . I did find a part on eBay just so I could see what it looks like. Hopefully by the end of this I will know a little more and have my ATV again.Most motorcycle neutral safety switch sending units are on the side of the case near the shifter. It will probably look a lot like an oil pressure or temperature sending units. In a lot of cases, it’s just a single green wire.
Nope, I will take any help I can getAhh, ya, I was describing a manual. Sorry, feel free to ignore me.lol
Well in that case I will give you my best guess..lol Most cvt (belt driven)style atv's that have forward nuetral and reverse have a type of transfer case style transmission that is seperate from the engine and driven by a belt. Some call it an FNR box, the neutral safety sending unit will likely be there if it's not activated by the shift lever itself. Probably still a green single wire connected to a sending unit that looks like an oil pressure or coolant temperature sending unit..Nope, I will take any help I can get



Thank you Old man Roger, I will have a look for it todayWell in that case I will give you my best guess..lol Most cvt (belt driven)style atv's that have forward nuetral and reverse have a type of transfer case style transmission that is seperate from the engine and driven by a belt. Some call it an FNR box, the neutral safety sending unit will likely be there if it's not activated by the shift lever itself. Probably still a green single wire connected to a sending unit that looks like an oil pressure or coolant temperature sending unit..

I have a similar problem with low hanging 'things'. So bad that every Sunday at church the first thing one friend does is examine the top of my head for new signs of collisions.Did not have a good day in the garage yesterday.
Then I carried the lumber into the chicken coop that has become my lumber yard, and hit my head on the door frame. Again. I do it every time! I'm about to staple a pool noodle to the top of the door frame, because I'm obviously too dumb to remember to duck. Maybe I should rename it as the "duck barn" instead of the chicken coop. Hey, that just might help.
Well in that case I will give you my best guess..lol Most cvt (belt driven)style atv's that have forward nuetral and reverse have a type of transfer case style transmission that is seperate from the engine and driven by a belt. Some call it an FNR box, the neutral safety sending unit will likely be there if it's not activated by the shift lever itself. Probably still a green single wire connected to a sending unit that looks like an oil pressure or coolant temperature sending unit..


Found my long lost 10mm ratchet wrench, 3 years after I changed the water pump. Sitting right where I left it, hidden in the corner by the overflow tank.Not that many was left there in November after the lines rusted out on the differential
4 wires at the engine is likely the stator wires, in your picture there is only one wire.
I’m thinking that it’s inside the cover that covers the primary and secondary clutch. I posted pictures of the picture of the neutral safety switch from eBay, and a picture of the housing on my ATV and the indentation on the housing looks very similar to the shape of neutral switch, I also posted a picture from my ATV where a wire goes through the case albeit a good 9 inches from the suspected switch location. There is 4 wires going into the case in that location, I’m going to have a look at the electrical diagram and see if I can find the wires on the diagram. If it was that musk rat he was right up in there, but I was ******* home off. My wife tells me it serves me right for tormenting him. Thanks @Old Man Roger
When I first got the machine last year I tested the stator for AC volts due to a no charge condition, it’s not the stator wires. The no charge ended up just needing a new regulator/rectifier. It looks like one wire but it’s insulator for 4 wires. Gray/blue goes to some large main connector that is labelled forward. A blue/black wire that splits and goes to diode A1 and diode D1 and to neutral light on the cluster. Black ground wire and red/yellow wire that splits and goes to reverse override button on left handle and to the reverse light on the cluster. The manual is calling Switch, Gear (24) on the diagram. I’m wondering if this switch gear is the SIG and neutral safety switch all in one? This is good stuff, I feel like I’m learning a little bit and might be able to muddle my way through this.4 wires at the engine is likely the stator wires, in your picture there is only one wire.
When I first got the machine last year I tested the stator for AC volts due to a no charge condition, it’s not the stator wires. The no charge ended up just needing a new regulator/rectifier. It looks like one wire but it’s insulator for 4 wires. Gray/blue goes to some large main connector that is labelled forward. A blue/black wire that splits and goes to diode A1 and diode D1 and to neutral light on the cluster. Black ground wire and red/yellow wire that splits and goes to reverse override button on left handle and to the reverse light on the cluster. The manual is calling Switch, Gear (24) on the diagram. I’m wondering if this switch gear is the SIG and neutral safety switch all in one? This is good stuff, I feel like I’m learning a little bit and might be able to muddle my way through this.




So am iTold ya I was guessing.lol
