How to hook up new 60 gallon Air compressor?

[mefarri]

Hey guys,

I need some info on how to hook up the compressor to the regulator/ dessicant dryer etc. It's a 60 Gallon Husky. 135psi max psi. I need to hook up the electrical plug too. I took a picture of the wiring diagram below.

Would it just be from the large hole in the side of the tank to the dessicant dryer to the regulator? What size lines/ input size on the dryer would I need to run?

thanks alot guys.

 

[tonydanzah]

maybe you have a friend that can help you in person? Otherwise pull off that black cover. The 2 hots plug in there.

 

[Stick Figure]

Yep there is a single screw IIRC that holds the black cover on. pull that off and thats the electrical connection. Its not hard to do yourself but if you have never done something like that before i would at least stop by a home improvement store and buy a book on electrical work. You will probably have to add a breaker as well for it.

As far as the plumbing i would probably run 1/2" line between the compressor and the dryer, but not really sure what dryer you have and what its capable of. Personally I just threaded the regulator/filter that i use directly into the compressor with a bushing.

 

[kc-steve]

It's difficult to tell from the photos but your air outlet hole looks to be about the same as mine, needing a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter if planning 1/2" pipe. I use black steel pipe across my garage to cool the air BEFORE it reaches a moisture filter/regulator. Placing a filter at the compressor tank output does no good at all. The air must be cooled first.

Then I have a 50' hose to my paint gun with a Milton desiccant filter/regulator at the gun. No moisture problems with that arrangement in Kansas City.

Can't help ya with the electrical because mine came with a plug installed for a 220v 30-amp circuit. It probably is the same as mine (Farmhand) most low-priced compressors are made by Campbell-Hausfeld.

Steve

 

[930dreamer]

I'd use a piece of flexible hose from the tank to some black/copper pipe to cut down on the vibration while running. TSC sells pressure hose with fittings.

Remove the plastic cover on the pressure switch for wiring.

 

[kc-steve]

X2 . . . I got my high-pressure flex hose from Grainger Supply.

Steve

 

[bsaint]

I would call an electrician friend if you aren't sure how to wire up 110v single phase pressure switch/starting contactor.

 

[daveroy]

I would call an electrician friend if you aren't sure how to wire up 110v single phase pressure switch/starting contactor.

Check that its 240v!

 

[kc-steve]

BTW, I just noticed the sand blaster in the picture. You will have trouble running equipment like that with that compressor. But if you are like me and need to take a lot of breaks when working, it will work.

Good luck,
Steve

 

[harryhood]

You should probably hook up a disconnect for that. I got mine from ebag for $20.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250609239690&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

As others have said get help or at least advice from a electrician before attempting that. You'll need to know what amp the circuit compressor requires so you can get the correct gauge wires, breaker etc..

 

[mefarri]

Thanks for the replies so far guys. I know how to wire up normal 120v stuff. I was just seeing if there was anything special for this 240v setup. I'll go take that cover off and take a gander.

As far as the setup goes, What do we think about this-

from the tank, shut off valve, reducer down to 1/2" ( or would 3/8" be enough?) then a flexible hose over to the brick wall right there, to some black pipe, to the dessicant dryer, to the regulator, then a quick disconnect for the air hose. Now, how much black pipe would I need to cool the air? Like how many feet?

As far as the balsting cabinet, this compressor will do 11.2 CFM which is plenty for how long I'd use it for from time to time.

 

[bsaint]

Check that its 240v!

Lol I didnt even see that. well I think you should still call your friend if you're not sure how to hook up a 110 volt pressure switch.

Honestly I would put the dryer right after the tank valve. That's how it would be installed professionally. You don't want moisture building up in black iron pipe. I wouldn't worry about cooling the air for a 1.5 hp compressor. Your efficiency won't change.

3/8" hose won't keep up 11.~ cfm. I would go 1/2" to 3/4" You sure its 11 cfm @ 90 psi?

 

[impulse922]

3/8" hose won't keep up 11.~ cfm. I would go 1/2" to 3/4" You sure its 11 cfm @ 90 psi?

220v is generally 3hp+

each hp is about 3-4 cfm. so yes, 10-11 cfm is believable. (i have a similar compressor and i've used spray guns, sanders,etc)

3/8 hose is fine for 11cfm, its only when painting that some get finicky about air supply, which is why they make high flow couplers(milton-V style)

 

[mefarri]

I don't know where you got 1.5hp from. Here's the compressor. 3.2 hp, 11.5/10.2 SCFM @ 40/90 PSI.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Well, this setup will be used for painting cars with HVLP guns. I'd rather have the set up for everything I'm going to do rather than have 2 different setups. So would 3/8" still be ok? The reason I ask is that alot of the dessicant dryers I've seen have 3/8" ins and outs unless you get the ral expensive ones.

I went and took off the electrical cover and man is that easy. Just 2 line inputs and a ground screw. So should I go buy one of those pre made plugs with the bare wire ends at wal mart/ home depot?

Also, so should I run the dryer after the flexible hose, ie 24" from the tank pre black pipe? Or run the flexible stuff to the black pipe, then to the dryer/regulator? How many feet of black pipe would I need to cool the air? I think I could make 3 rows maybe on that wall which would amount to around 12 feet of black pipe.

 

[scott37300]

Lol I didnt even see that. well I think you should still call your friend if you're not sure how to hook up a 110 volt pressure switch.

Honestly I would put the dryer right after the tank valve. That's how it would be installed professionally. You don't want moisture building up in black iron pipe. I wouldn't worry about cooling the air for a 1.5 hp compressor. Your efficiency won't change.

3/8" hose won't keep up 11.~ cfm. I would go 1/2" to 3/4" You sure its 11 cfm @ 90 psi?

Can you provide some info on "professionally installed" systems that have the dryer right after the compressor? EVERYTHING I have seen has said to run 25-30' of black iron or copper BEFORE the dryer in order to cool the air in order to allow the dryer to work better.

I have a small portable emglo compressor that's rated at 1.8HP and 4.5 gallons that the tank gets hot just filling that little tank. So filling a 60 gallon tank will create a lot of heat and a filter right after the tank will not allow for the air to cool down. The filter will not take the moisture out of the compressed air when it's warm, that is why the air needs to run threw pipe to use the surface area of the pipe to cool it down before it hits the filter. You slope your pipe towards a drain so the moisture that stays in the black pipe drains down a leg with a valve on it and the water can be drained out.

 

[mefarri]

Ok great. I'll be sure to add a drain valve. 25 feet seems like a long length of pipe. Is that long really necessary?

 

[impulse922]

Well, this setup will be used for painting cars with HVLP guns. I'd rather have the set up for everything I'm going to do rather than have 2 different setups. So would 3/8" still be ok? The reason I ask is that alot of the dessicant dryers I've seen have 3/8" ins and outs unless you get the ral expensive ones.

3/8" fittings come on 1/2" hose.

1/4" fittings come on 3/8" hose.

 

[kc-steve]

. . . Honestly I would put the dryer right after the tank valve. That's how it would be installed professionally. You don't want moisture building up in black iron pipe. I wouldn't worry about cooling the air for a 1.5 hp compressor. Your efficiency won't change.

3/8" hose won't keep up 11.~ cfm. I would go 1/2" to 3/4" You sure its 11 cfm @ 90 psi?

Excuse my honesty, but MANY so-called professionals don't really know how to set up moisture filters correctly and the ONLY way of knowing is when your air tools fail prematurely. You are more likely to blame the tool manufacturers than the guy who incorrectly installed the moisture filter coming out of the tank.

Moisture ONLY condenses when it is cooled, and then the moisture filter will trap it.

Ok great. I'll be sure to add a drain valve. 25 feet seems like a long length of pipe. Is that long really necessary?

At LEAST 25-ft especially if you plan to paint. Or I guess you can do what some people do and that is to buy a refrigeration unit to cool the line and air. But it is ESSENTIAL to cool the air BEFORE it goes to the moisture filter in order to be effective.

You can also add drain ***** in the piping system to drain accumulated water. The steel pipe is cheap and easy to replace, not so with air tools.

Steve

 

[mefarri]

ok so, best case scenario, how many feet to cool the air from the 3.2hp motor? If you put the drain valves at the bottom of the piping runs, wouldn't they just fill up with moisture over and over? Isn't that the point of the dessicant so you don't have to drain the water over and over?

And why would a 1/2" air hose matter when most air tools have 1/4" inlet?
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16955
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/specialty-air-tools/3-inch-high-speed-air-cutter-47077.html

 

[ZRX61]

50ft seems to be about average between compressor & filter. 20ft ain't gonna do much at all.

Dessicant driers are usually used after normal water seperators to get the last bit out before the hose than goes to your paint gun.

 

[hofferwood]

Lotsa room for an aftercooler.
I like lametec's post #40 in this thread http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50946&highlight=aftercooler&page=2

Chuck

 

[bsaint]

Can you provide some info on "professionally installed" systems that have the dryer right after the compressor? EVERYTHING I have seen has said to run 25-30' of black iron or copper BEFORE the dryer in order to cool the air in order to allow the dryer to work better.

I have a small portable emglo compressor that's rated at 1.8HP and 4.5 gallons that the tank gets hot just filling that little tank. So filling a 60 gallon tank will create a lot of heat and a filter right after the tank will not allow for the air to cool down. The filter will not take the moisture out of the compressed air when it's warm, that is why the air needs to run threw pipe to use the surface area of the pipe to cool it down before it hits the filter. You slope your pipe towards a drain so the moisture that stays in the black pipe drains down a leg with a valve on it and the water can be drained out.

Sure swing by and we'll visit a handful of paper mills and stamping factories we've installed compressors at. If you take the moisture out of the air early, then you won't put moisture in the black iron which causes scaling and rust. Now you're blowing scale and rust through tools, regulators, etc etc. A dryer is put just after the tank as close as possible. If you want to debate it, call a air compressor house and get back to me.

Excuse my honesty, but MANY so-called professionals don't really know how to set up moisture filters correctly and the ONLY way of knowing is when your air tools fail prematurely. You are more likely to blame the tool manufacturers than the guy who incorrectly installed the moisture filter coming out of the tank.

Moisture ONLY condenses when it is cooled, and then the moisture filter will trap it.

No kidding buddy. Lets calm down a little. That's why I only recommend refrigerated air dryers. But we have some heated desiccant dryers (I am not sure how they work) that bring the air temperature to -100 degrees.

I don't know where you got 1.5hp from. Here's the compressor. 3.2 hp, 11.5/10.2 SCFM @ 40/90 PSI.

I didn't get it from anywhere. Just most non name brand compressors have motors rated for freewheel hp or how you want to name it hp. The 3 hp on your compressor is a lot different than the one in this link

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002641QVA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[fordbroncodave]

when i hooked up my sharpe regulator and filter setup i used hydraulic hose from carquest. they can cut to length and put on adaptors in the store. it works good for hi flow air and is not ridgid so it can be placed on the compressor and not break

 

[scott37300]

I have been in paper and packaging mills with huge compressors and hundreds of gallons tanks. And you are correct that they have an air dryer right after the compressor. But you are way off page, they use a refridgerated dryer that costs thousands of dollars, pretty sure the OP and most on here including myself are not going to be using refridgerated dryers! I agree with you that taking the air out early is great but not practical for most garages. In order for an average dryer to work efficiently the air needs to be cooled first, the only way it will release the moisture trapped in it. If you try and dry/filter warm air you will still have the same moisture in the air which will mean the same moisture in the black pipe which means the same rust/scale. Unless you spend big bucks on a dryer that also will cool the air putting an average water filter/desiccant dryer right after the compressor doesn't do much good. I don't need to debate anything with you, you are comparing apples to oranges, you are talking about two different kinds of dryers at two very different price levels.

 

[kab00m]

I have the Husky compressor as well. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of how it is wired up as I had a professional come in and install a 220v outlet along with connecting a power cord to the compressor.

The compressor is standing on pads I bought at Grainger and the filter/reg is mounted to the wall with brackets from Grainger as well. The flex hose was bought at Harbor Freight. The filter/reg is a Milton unit that is 1/2 npt

 

[Kenwc]

I probably can't throw in this question without it being a hijack but I have this same compressor. The red switch on top will not turn it off. It runs fine and stops when it reaches the correct pressure but the switch does not work.

Any suggestions here? Is this a normal electrical switch or some sort of pressure switch?

There are only vague drawings with respect to the switch ckt.

Thanks

 

[mefarri]

Take off that single screw and you will see that the red knob just clicks into this white pole sticking up and rotates it back and forth to turn it on and off. See if something is screw up there. BUT UN PLUG THE COMPRESSOR FIRST. There are live open wires in there.

 

[mefarri]

Kaboom, thanks for that. That's very similiar to what I was thinking. How many feet of copper do you have before the dryer? Any drain ***** at the low points? Do you have a link to your regulator/dryer setup?

And can anyone answer my questions up above about why a 1/2" hose with 3/8" output is needed when every air tool has a 1/4" input?

thanks guys!

 

[kab00m]

I have one drain ****. It's below the filter/reg. I only have about 10 feet or so off the compressor to let the air cool down. I'm about to route new copper line across the ceiling of the garage to the other side where I actually work on cars (its a mess in there...)

I'm not sure about the 1/2 hose with 3/8 output, air flow I suppose. I use 3/8 Goodyear hose with 1/4 type V fittings (high-flow).

And here is the filter/regulator: Milton Filter/Regulator

 

[mefarri]

I also have the 3/8" goodyear hose with the high flow fittings which is why I'm asking why that's not enough seeing that it's the biggest air inlet that these hand tools can accept...

That filter regulator setup is pretty freaking cheap...How's it working for you?

Just noticed it will only fo 125psi, our compressor will do 135psi...

 

[mefarri]

Just found this on the Grainger site.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SPEEDAIRE-Air-Line-FilterRegulator-4ZL01

Also,

On Grainger's site, there's a different link for filters and dessicant dryers...Is there a difference?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/compressed-air-treatment/pneumatics/ecatalog/N-c94

 

[ZRX61]

This is how mine is set up:

Had to tighten the hoseclamp once in 15 years...

 

[mefarri]

Just found this on the Grainger site.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SPEEDAIRE-Air-Line-FilterRegulator-4ZL01

Also,

On Grainger's site, there's a different link for filters and dessicant dryers...Is there a difference?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/compressed-air-treatment/pneumatics/ecatalog/N-c94

Anybody?...

 

[mefarri]

I also have the 3/8" goodyear hose with the high flow fittings which is why I'm asking why that's not enough seeing that it's the biggest air inlet that these hand tools can accept...

That filter regulator setup is pretty freaking cheap...How's it working for you?

Just noticed it will only fo 125psi, our compressor will do 135psi...

And? ...........

 

[mefarri]

Bump for those questions.