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Stair stringers - 3x LVLs or 4x 2x12 KD?

Mattilac

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Jan 19, 2013
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Getting ready to build some interior stairs. Will be my first time. Been reading and watching videos.

Here are some general dimensions:

14 steps
7.25" rise
11" run

Overall length of the stringers will be between 15-16'. Stair width will be around 36-40".

Given these specs, would you go with 3x LVLs (I guess 11-7/8" or 14" wide) or 4x regular 2x12s for the stringers?

Screenshot 2025-07-16 at 5.40.42 PM copy.jpg
 
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Dagny

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I used white oak full 2x12s for mine. The trouble with lumber yard stuff is the points break off.
 

GrayFlattop

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Chicago
LVL - no question. You just won’t find “regular” 2 x 12 stock that is as worth a damn when you start and once you cut out the stringer, they will all move differently as their moisture content changes.
 

jar944

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LVL - no question. You just won’t find “regular” 2 x 12 stock that is as worth a damn when you start and once you cut out the stringer, they will all move differently as their moisture content changes.

Another reason not to go with a cut stringer.
 

Youngandfree

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If you have the room to make the stairs longer, I'd do 6.5" rise. I replaced the 2 steps on my front porch with 3 steps, and its magnificent. My back 2nd story deck is getting replaced next month and its getting 6.5" rise.
 
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PCustoms

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If you have the room to make the stairs longer, I'd do 6.5" rise. I replaced the 2 steps on my front porch with 3 steps, and its magnificent. My back 2nd story deck is getting replaced next month and its getting 6.5" rise.
I have long legs, I HATE little steps.


@Mattilac go with the LVL.

I was buying 2x12x12' to get 2 ~4' stringers. They ****. Splits and knots all over screwing up the layout. I can't imagine trying to get 16'
 

ddurrett896

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Getting ready to build some interior stairs. Will be my first time. Been reading and watching videos
No help other than to recommend blocklayer (link below) for the cuts. Built a couple sets of stairs and the calcs are perfect.

 

Firebrick43

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West central Indiana
If fancy stairs I definitely would do housed stringers being that long as @jar944 suggested.

If down into a basement I would cut stringers in the normal fashion on a 2x12 but screw/laminate those to an uncut lvl on the sides for an easier and very strong set not weakend by cuts.
 

Shoester

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I used 2x12's. If I had to do it over again, I would for sure go with LVL's. I wasn't paying enough attention when I bought the 2x12's and ended up wasting two boards because they had too much of a bow in them, and another one because a couple of the 'points' broke off after cutting. Lesson learned.
 
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carlaisle

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I would use a taller rise and longer run, but that's my preference, not yours. You should size the rise and run to what you find most comfortable. If you can find straight 2x12s, they'll save you a good bit of coin but the LVLs are much easier to work with. The broken off points can easily be glued back on; the knots and splits are much more of a challenge to work around.
 

danfromsyr

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I do hope there's a plan to have them supported in middle that's a long span for stringers.. esp cut stringers.

if your not going to put a mid span support
I'd do cut 2x12s fastened to an uncut LVL as mentioned above.. then the LVL is a 'beam' and is rated for a 16ft span.
 

billconner

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Research shows that missteps - which lead to falls which lead to injuries - increase as tread depth decreases and as riser height increases. It's a fairly straight line increase in missteps for treads down to 11 3/4" or so, then they increase a faster rate. Likewise as riser height increases to around 6 1/4 or 6 1/2", it's a straight line. Taller and the number of missteps per use increases at an increasing rate.

Up to code max rise and to min tread depth it's all personal choice. I usually aim for 6 x 13, and may push that a little on interior stairs - like 6 1/2 x 12 1/2.

I wear size 13 shoes which are over 12" overall, and not having to turn my foot increases stability. The more you rotate you foot the less stability.
 
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Mattilac

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Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions. I couldn't resist the idea of a stiffer, stronger staircase, so I went ahead and grabbed a bunch of 14" LVLs. (I'm building two stairs, and will use 4 stringers for each.)

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One of the stairs may eventually have a wall on both sides to support it, but the other staircase might be free standing so I figured the thicker LVLs @ 4 across should help. We'll see how it feels in practice.
 

mike93lx

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Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions. I couldn't resist the idea of a stiffer, stronger staircase, so I went ahead and grabbed a bunch of 14" LVLs. (I'm building two stairs, and will use 4 stringers for each.)

IMG_2066.JPG

One of the stairs may eventually have a wall on both sides to support it, but the other staircase might be free standing so I figured the thicker LVLs @ 4 across should help. We'll see how it feels in practice.
4 each is the right move. 👍

Curious, what did those run you?
 
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Mattilac

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Are LVLs significantly less expensive in other parts of the country? Around here it's always been about 4-5x dimensional lumber.
 
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Mattilac

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I thought about it and figured it offered more bearing support and a touch more space under the stairs for my mechanicals.

Is there a downside to that top stair being flush with the mezzanine floor?
 

billconner

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I thought about it and figured it offered more bearing support and a touch more space under the stairs for my mechanicals.

Is there a downside to that top stair being flush with the mezzanine floor?
It does make "hanging" them simple. Structurally you just need to anchor bottom to floor. The top anchorage bears no load - just leaning against upper floor. Also can be easier to assure to rise is equal. So many stairs where too rise is greater than rest because of finished flooring not being taken into account.
 
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Mattilac

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Subtreads and risers cut from scrap Advantech and 5/8" ZIP. Glued and screwed. Very stiff feeling stairs. I'm happy. Plan is to eventually install hardwood treads.

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On to the second staircase, which will be from the mezzanine up to the attic. I'm now considering doing an open riser design with 4x12 treads since I'm not planning to close in the space under the stairs.

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