On the Icon 1/4" ratchet and bit kit I bought the other day, looked it over quite a bit more carefully. It's a nice kit, but IMHO not worth $80. Though I sort of have the same opinion of lots of the Icon stuff. At full price, buy it if you need it today but overpriced. With the ubiquitous 20% off deal, sure, if you like it. At the very occasional 40% off deals, feel free to go into hoarding mode...
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- Thread starter sarel.wagner
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Is the Lang any nicer? I haven't used one but I imagine it's nothing "precision" or feels well built. Every caliper compressor I've seen looks like a pos.
I am not a pro, but I used a large C-clamp for this task. The c-clamps I have are malleable iron and could probably split the caliper if one aped down on them. They work great and using them with plywood cutouts/scraps can get very uniform pressure on the cylinder to retract without binding (put screw end on cylinder and the opposite end on the back of the caliper). I do not see much gain for using such a specialty caliper compressor tool unless you are in a pro brake shop doing many disc brake pad replacements all day. The large c-clamps are also useful for a lot more than brake calipers. I use them and a few quick grip type bar clamps to hold things in position when I (as is usual) work by myself.
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I've had one for years. It works ok. It isn't my favorite caliper tool. It was an upgrade over the C clamp I was using. It can be awkward to get to the point where it actually starts compressing the piston.
My tool of choice these days is the Lisle "caulk gun" style. Faster, easier, and a better feel as to how much pressure it is taking to push the piston in. Personal opinions, of course.
WWheeler
Well-known member
The Lang 279-5420 Brake Caliper Press is also rebadged by Snap-on and sold under their Blue-Point name (BTCP500) for more than twice the price. If you pay the $110 price tag Snap-on wants you can be assured to convince yourself it's got that 'precision' feel.
Kidding aside, the Lang one is the real deal and all the others that look like it are knock-offs.
Snap-on also has some that carry the snap-on (BTCP600 and BTCP400) branding but have different sizes that I did not see offered by Lang.
WWheeler
Well-known member
Yeah, Snap-on now also makes their own designs they are selling for more. They have sold that rebadged Lang for many years now.
I've haven't yet seen anyone with one of the Snap-on ones, but I know plenty who have been using that Blue-Point or Lang for a long time now.
FWIW there's always a bunch of broken for parts only of that snap-on small one (BTCP400) on ebay.
I've haven't yet seen anyone with one of the Snap-on ones, but I know plenty who have been using that Blue-Point or Lang for a long time now.
FWIW there's always a bunch of broken for parts only of that snap-on small one (BTCP400) on ebay.
I spent too much on the FACOM Nano kit, which is, like all of this good stuff, made in Taiwan, but having used it, I'm very happy with it.
Yeah, I like the concept, and in practice, wished I had three hands to get it started.
C-clamps and very expensive painted calipers aren't a good idea; and lots of modern vehicles have painted calipers. I don't have the Lang tool, but I have two different generic ones that work really well and probably cost ~$20 each; no plywood required.
I can see that point. But the calipers on all my cars have been zinc plated metal (if any surface treatment). They do fine with C-clamps. thin plywood strips fix most any marring problem (paint, powder coat, etc). Granted it makes things a little harder to hold. But I only do brake jobs every year or two between my two family cars ... so I am not concerned if it takes me a minute (and I doubt it is longer than that) to use a c-clamp vs whatever number of seconds less.
I also am keeping economy cars for 300k miles in the rust belt (Michigan) with rough road useage ... so the calipers are typically far from showroom appearance!
SouthernIllinois
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2024
- Messages
- 1,671
Mac rethreading set
Craftsman tape measure
SO screwdrivers and slip-joint pliers
Craftsman tape measure
SO screwdrivers and slip-joint pliers
I think what also kicked off the trend for these tools was, more than one piston, and in some cases, pistons on each side? There were always ways around it, I'm sure. I used to be fan of "bigass Channellock." Used carefully, not bad. Giant C clamp better than that, though.
Today's arrival:
1. Wiha big bitdriver, $10ish, made in Germany, hex shank, magnetic chuck.
2.Milton nickel-plated Schraeder caps. (Not a tool, just how I roll.)
3. Neiko locking 3/8" extensions. $22ish, about $2 more than the HF set of four, but I stood there in HF and said, I just don't need that super duper long one. OK, and at the time, in my brain, they were the same price. Maybe they were and Amazon bumped it. Either way, now I have Neiko and the're made in Taiwan and will go in my road bag. HF's set a decade plus ago is what sent me down the "locking extensions whenever possible" path. Still have them in the main box. If I need the long one when working out of my road bag, well, these three add up to that.
Better view:
Knurling may be better than my old HF's. Haven't compared them up close yet.
1. Wiha big bitdriver, $10ish, made in Germany, hex shank, magnetic chuck.
2.Milton nickel-plated Schraeder caps. (Not a tool, just how I roll.)
3. Neiko locking 3/8" extensions. $22ish, about $2 more than the HF set of four, but I stood there in HF and said, I just don't need that super duper long one. OK, and at the time, in my brain, they were the same price. Maybe they were and Amazon bumped it. Either way, now I have Neiko and the're made in Taiwan and will go in my road bag. HF's set a decade plus ago is what sent me down the "locking extensions whenever possible" path. Still have them in the main box. If I need the long one when working out of my road bag, well, these three add up to that.
Better view:
Knurling may be better than my old HF's. Haven't compared them up close yet.
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BlakeTheCarGuy
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Snap-on master tap and die set. I’ve never seen die sockets before so that’s pretty cool. My bay neighbor has a similar set but his doesn’t have the die sockets or anything fancy lol. This was on sale but I can’t remember the price maybe $635ish. Still doesn’t have all the taps I need but bigger than the Matco set I had originally purchased which will now be my home set. I have on order a M14x1.5 and M16x1.5 taps as well as an M12x1.25 that I ordered before I got this set but that’s fine it doesn’t hurt to have extras. Those are coming from Matco though. Man I need a bigger toolbox. My work won’t let me expand anymore so I can’t get a locker lol. I have to keep this underneath my box because I’m out of space and the drawer it goes in is full lol.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Today's arrival:
1. Wiha big bitdriver, $10ish, made in Germany, hex shank, magnetic chuck.
2.Milton nickel-plated Schraeder caps. (Not a tool, just how I roll.)
3. Neiko locking 3/8" extensions. $22ish, about $2 more than the HF set of four, but I stood there in HF and said, I just don't need that super duper long one. OK, and at the time, in my brain, they were the same price. Maybe they were and Amazon bumped it. Either way, now I have Neiko and the're made in Taiwan and will go in my road bag. HF's set a decade plus ago is what sent me down the "locking extensions whenever possible" path. Still have them in the main box. If I need the long one when working out of my road bag, well, these three add up to that.
Better view:
Knurling may be better than my old HF's. Haven't compared them up close yet.
What? Don't roll with chrome skulls?
I always liked the caps with the stem removers. Why it make it hard for the guy who wants to F with you?
Picked up a bunch of impacts at Lowe’s with their clearance deal - $3 each. Nothing wild but decent looking Taiwanese made sockets. Put together most of a 1/2” drive shallow set and added a few sizes of deeps.
Also picked up a few fill-in sizes of 1/2” 12pt chromes.
Picked up some of the bigger wrenches too. I find that one of the only places I encounter SAE is larger fasteners. For $5 a wrench it’s worth having these over using adjustables.
Also picked up a few fill-in sizes of 1/2” 12pt chromes.
Picked up some of the bigger wrenches too. I find that one of the only places I encounter SAE is larger fasteners. For $5 a wrench it’s worth having these over using adjustables.
Snap-on master tap and die set. I’ve never seen die sockets before so that’s pretty cool. My bay neighbor has a similar set but his doesn’t have the die sockets or anything fancy lol. This was on sale but I can’t remember the price maybe $635ish. Still doesn’t have all the taps I need but bigger than the Matco set I had originally purchased which will now be my home set. I have on order a M14x1.5 and M16x1.5 taps as well as an M12x1.25 that I ordered before I got this set but that’s fine it doesn’t hurt to have extras. Those are coming from Matco though. Man I need a bigger toolbox. My work won’t let me expand anymore so I can’t get a locker lol. I have to keep this underneath my box because I’m out of space and the drawer it goes in is full lol.
Well, I always preach storage density. Although in this case I really see the appeal of the organizer they gave you. But you could store all of those in a lot less space.
I was at lowes the other day. All the closeout sockets.... deep, shallow, chrome, impact, metric, SAE and all the sizes were just dumped together. I grabbed a 1/2" chromie that jumped out at me on top, (I was missing one from a particular set I have) but there was no way in hell I was going to try and build some sort of set out that mess... Not THAT good of a deal, particularly to end up with a partial set.Picked up a bunch of impacts at Lowe’s with their clearance deal - $3 each. Nothing wild but decent looking Taiwanese made sockets. Put together most of a 1/2” drive shallow set and added a few sizes of deeps.
Also picked up a few fill-in sizes of 1/2” 12pt chromes.
Picked up some of the bigger wrenches too. I find that one of the only places I encounter SAE is larger fasteners. For $5 a wrench it’s worth having these over using adjustables.
Of course shortly after I got home, I actually found the missing 1/2" I had misplaced, so now I have an extra 1/2"! Sort of the SAE equivalent of 10mm though, no?
My father had one combination wrench. A Snap On 1/2". Not very shiny, it just hung on a peg in our shop. I always assumed he got it at a trade show or convention. Tonight the light bulb flickers over my head -- he found it in his car after taking it to a dealer or garage.
WWheeler
Well-known member
And the only reason he was able to hang on to it all that time was because it wasn't a 10mm.
Heh heh. This was in The Time Before Metric. My parents drove Deetroit Pillowbarges. And he didn't wrench on cars.
Meursault74
Well-known member
I don't have the Fluke, but I have one from HF. It will come in use at some point.$25 pawn shop pickup today - Fluke 62 Max IR Thermometer
I don’t really need it, but at that price I couldn’t say no. Fun to mess around with!
I used mine recently to measure the temperature around my gas water heater burner. Intermittent issue with the thermal cut off switch I thought after eliminating other parts. Verified the temperature was nowhere near the cut off temp for the switch. Switch is no good. Bypassed it with a thermal fuse I had of slightly lower temperature point. It's been good for over a week now.
These were in drawers and relatively well organized - no worse than normal at a big box store. I wouldn’t sort through a pile of sockets either!
olsenmotorsports
Well-known member
Snap-on master tap and die set. I’ve never seen die sockets before so that’s pretty cool. My bay neighbor has a similar set but his doesn’t have the die sockets or anything fancy lol. This was on sale but I can’t remember the price maybe $635ish. Still doesn’t have all the taps I need but bigger than the Matco set I had originally purchased which will now be my home set. I have on order a M14x1.5 and M16x1.5 taps as well as an M12x1.25 that I ordered before I got this set but that’s fine it doesn’t hurt to have extras. Those are coming from Matco though. Man I need a bigger toolbox. My work won’t let me expand anymore so I can’t get a locker lol. I have to keep this underneath my box because I’m out of space and the drawer it goes in is full lol.
That is a great bit of kit there. IMHO the most complete kit on the market!
One of my cars that I used a C-clamp on is a dual piston caliper (two on one side). I retract them at the same time by using the C-clamp pressing on a relatively thin plywood trip placed over the two. The strip is cut to fit. This works fine for me: press is uniform enough with no binding on either cylinder.
IF pistons are on both sides (not familiar with such models if that is what you meant) I would try one side at a time. I do not see why retractions would need to be done all at once (this holds even for two pistons on one side) unless in a rush (like in a shop). If the other piston goes out a bit while retracting the other piston, then just repeat till both are fully retracted. They do not tend to be that springy where it could be a problem.
An additional comment: I doubt the Lange tool or similar will fit well with every model and size of car. There are a wide range of sizes and it would need to fit in well enough. I should be able to make plywood strips cut to size and a C-clamp work with anything. I just put the plywood strips in my toolbox next to the clamp than I am ready for the next time without hunting around and cutting.
As a Garage Journal type, I often overkill with tools ... especially if it helps do the job better. I am not usually concerned with tool cost since I keep things a long time and they generally repay relative to shops in the first use. But in this case, I do not see the need or attraction for this specialty tool outside of high end concerns on marring a show car or very rapid shop work where saving some number of seconds many times helps productivity.
On the thread restoration set: Mac does not make these and they are rebranded from a USA company (forgot name but easy to find). They are pretty good quality for reasonable prices when not bought via Mac. For car work, many of the metric taps and dies (Mac set may be more complete) have too many skips of sizes needed. Extras to fill in can be cheaply/easily ordered online ... including direct from the manufacturer. I think most of the brand names these are sold under are the same if listed as usa origin. I find the thread touch up files in the set useless. I am not sure if that is just me not understanding how to use them well or they just do not work well. But I tried them and quickly gave up. So I ordered the missing sizes needed and put them in the file part of the case with the files relegated to my "what do I do with this" tool pile.Mac rethreading set
Craftsman tape measure
SO screwdrivers and slip-joint pliers
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One side at a time does not really work.
When you push in one side, the other one pushes out. Honestly, a piece of wood or metal across both will work… but I like having the tools.
YesIHaveAHammer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2025
- Messages
- 820
Putting together a small pouch tool kit.
Knipex Needle-Nose Combination Pliers 08 21 145
Nice size; compact, but fits well in the hand, and doesn't feel compromised. The plastic coated grips suit it well, especially given the handles are wider than on the standard needle noses of similar size.
Knipex Cobra 87 01 150
Capacity is very close to the 180, but much more compact especially with these grips (the only ones available in this size). It does have a bit of a "small tool" feeling to it compared to the pliers above though, like the design better lends itself to larger sizes.
Wiha Utility Organizer Zipper Tool Pouch 91472
I liked that, unlike many similar ones, the internal layout is very flexible and unopinionated about how you lay things out. Internal dimensions of the grid is 175x105mm although it could take a little more.
Knipex Needle-Nose Combination Pliers 08 21 145
Nice size; compact, but fits well in the hand, and doesn't feel compromised. The plastic coated grips suit it well, especially given the handles are wider than on the standard needle noses of similar size.
Knipex Cobra 87 01 150
Capacity is very close to the 180, but much more compact especially with these grips (the only ones available in this size). It does have a bit of a "small tool" feeling to it compared to the pliers above though, like the design better lends itself to larger sizes.
The 180 with comfort grips measures 190mm.
Wiha Utility Organizer Zipper Tool Pouch 91472
I liked that, unlike many similar ones, the internal layout is very flexible and unopinionated about how you lay things out. Internal dimensions of the grid is 175x105mm although it could take a little more.
For a Subaru Forester there are two pistons on one side of the caliper. Pushing one piston in at a time works on that model. Or at least it did for me when I was too lazy to walk to the toolbox when I forgot to grab the piece of wood I had cut out to fit over both pistons. So in that case, I know it works from doing it. Perhaps dual pistons on the opposite sides are harder for whatever reason. The C-clamp technique working well or not may be specific to the car, design of the chambers, how springy the pistons are etc ...
Perhaps the reason I see no need for the tool is the specific series of cars that I am working on. In my case it does not appear like it would help much, if any. But I do not object to more tools
Nice set.Snap-on master tap and die set. I’ve never seen die sockets before so that’s pretty cool. My bay neighbor has a similar set but his doesn’t have the die sockets or anything fancy lol. This was on sale but I can’t remember the price maybe $635ish. Still doesn’t have all the taps I need but bigger than the Matco set I had originally purchased which will now be my home set. I have on order a M14x1.5 and M16x1.5 taps as well as an M12x1.25 that I ordered before I got this set but that’s fine it doesn’t hurt to have extras. Those are coming from Matco though. Man I need a bigger toolbox. My work won’t let me expand anymore so I can’t get a locker lol. I have to keep this underneath my box because I’m out of space and the drawer it goes in is full lol.
What makes a die socket any different than using a regular 1/2” drive socket on a hex die?
My two Craftsman sets from the 70’s
Ducky
Well-known member
A recent visit on the Snap On truck revealed a few new members to my tool collection.
Nice set.
What makes a die socket any different than using a regular 1/2” drive socket on a hex die?
My two Craftsman sets from the 70’s
Snap-on does not use hex dies, they use a 12pt die.
I think that the Snap-on die socket has some kind of retention to hold the die in.
It can be very frustrating to use tap and die holders that allow the die or tap to fall out when lifting into position. So some type of retaining clip or o-ring is needed on the wrenches and sockets you use. Fumbling with the positioning with the cutting part moving in a regular socket can cause problems on the important start phase when alignment needs to be good.
I'm a DIY guy, who learned to replace brakes (drum and disc) with common hand tools back in the 80s. Pliers, screwdrivers, wrenches and sockets, and of course a C-clamp (and maybe a BFH)...
As for the caliper tools, I still don't get it, even with a double piston. Just leave the old pad in place and squeeze on that with the C-clamp.
Again, I'm sure the specialty tools are nice for professionals, but I question how much they really matter even to them.
Maybe I just need to see them used side-by-side against a C-clamp. Is there a good video for that (one not "rigged" by the creator to make his point to buy the specialty tool)?
Mike
As for the caliper tools, I still don't get it, even with a double piston. Just leave the old pad in place and squeeze on that with the C-clamp.
Again, I'm sure the specialty tools are nice for professionals, but I question how much they really matter even to them.
Maybe I just need to see them used side-by-side against a C-clamp. Is there a good video for that (one not "rigged" by the creator to make his point to buy the specialty tool)?
Mike
BobsYourUncle69
Well-known member
Some Bosch arrivals.
Item 1: Although I'm on the Makita LXT eco system , I've always preferred Bosch drills but prefer Makita for anything that cuts. Saw this impact drill on Amazon with 2 4AH batteries 30% off so got it. Also, the problem I have with buying Makita on Amazon is that it mostly seems to be from 3rd party sellers and most of the negative reviews are related to the 3rd party sellers.
I wanted to try and stick to one eco system but it is what it is. Malaysia ( bag and charger , China )
Item 2 Bosch self leveling laser , I want to fit 2 lights in my living room 8 ft apart and don't want to battle. China
Item 1: Although I'm on the Makita LXT eco system , I've always preferred Bosch drills but prefer Makita for anything that cuts. Saw this impact drill on Amazon with 2 4AH batteries 30% off so got it. Also, the problem I have with buying Makita on Amazon is that it mostly seems to be from 3rd party sellers and most of the negative reviews are related to the 3rd party sellers.
I wanted to try and stick to one eco system but it is what it is. Malaysia ( bag and charger , China )
Item 2 Bosch self leveling laser , I want to fit 2 lights in my living room 8 ft apart and don't want to battle. China
Attachments
The vintage Craftsman dies are also 12 point and the 70’s vintage are very decent quality.
Makes sense on some sort of retention.
You are correct in that a bit of die retention makes things easier.
After using my set for a few years I took an old 1/2” drive, 12pt socket and drilled and tapped it for a set screw.
The majority of my usage back then was in an automotive setting and involved mostly rethreading.
I couldn’t guess how many dozen exhaust manifold studs where I cleaned up the threads before installing new brass nuts.
Edit: The Craftsman dies are 6 pt. I guess I used a 12pt socket because it was handy
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Your die (or tap?) with a socket modified with a set screw approach sounds good. Makes a lot of sense -- especially if you are doing something where the issue comes up a lot. I was generally lazy and just put enough layers of masking tape around the die or tap and then pounded in the socket to create enough of a jam to get it started. That worked well enough since, for me as an extreme DIY type, the problem only came up from time to time and I was looking for quick fixes to get out of jams. But modifying some old spare sockets to have on hand sounds much better.
Exhaust system studs and bolts in the rust belt can be a nightmare. Suspension parts are often bad too. It can be a challenge to get things apart without breaking fasteners off and then having real headaches to drill and tap out in restricted spaces (takes seemingly forever in awkward positions and/or turns a small job into a huge one to remove 101 adjacent components for space). I find that restore type taps and dies can be *much* better relative to conventional taps and dies to use for post-removal thread clean up. They start up with less risk of cross-thread cutting and help reform threads without material removal. When you put things back together I recommend having it rain anti-seize (high temp stuff for exhaust). Your future self (of whoever next works on the car) will thank you for it.
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I have been surprised at how much I have used the smallest of the 3 plies in your group. I use them all the time!A recent visit on the Snap On truck revealed a few new members to my tool collection.