First Craftsman drill press restoration finished!

[Modagger]

Greetings!

After searching for quite some time and always seeming to be five or ten minutes late to call on a listing, I finally came in 1st.

I got this back around February and started right in. The help I got along the way from members, especially FrankLee and the in depth videos from Jeff’s Shop on YouTube were invaluable.

I’ve done a couple of things that many purists will no doubt bristle at, but at the end of the day, my tool, my choices.

First is the not so correct color choice. Second, and most egregious is my way of adapting a counterweight. As you can see, I put it into the center post because in all of the years I’ve been using my previous drill press, I’ve never once had occasion to move the head up, down, left or right. I’m just left with getting a hunk of round stock to use for the weight.

I have another 100 that I’m going to restore for my brother as a surprise. We’ll see what he thinks about a pink drill press

Again, thanks to all for the great help during this adventure.

Be well
Jeff

 

[frugalguido]

I like the color choice!

 

[FrankLee]

That is gorgeous! Very nicely done!

 

[RTM]

Very nice color choice. Let the haters hate.

 

[Modagger]

That is gorgeous! Very nicely done!

You may take a bow at your leisure for providing in depth guidance FrankLee.

 

[KFBR392]

Supremely badass. I have zero use for a drill press but I want one so bad, just so I can do a resto on it.

 

[BSWS]

You did 2 things I wouldn't have the nerve to do and I like them both. I was torn between keeping mine an original CM color, and going with a blue exactly like yours. My dad painted an old Dunlap about the same color and that DP was part of my inspiration for restoring one. That is also a really clean pulley system you designed too. Nicely done.

 

[Jayman17]

Great job on that restoration, color looks good too.

 

[mngundog]

What actually is the purpose of the pulley/wheel(?) device in the center post?

 

[OccupantRJ]

If it makes you feel better, I am also one to do a resto-mod on a shop tool that I refurbish. Things get added to make a machine work better for me. I don’t use the word restore because that is not what I am doing. I added remote oiler ports to my Bridgeport table lead screw nuts because the original oil method is not a user friendly design.
Your drill press came out great!

 

[OccupantRJ]

The gang production drill presses at work had internal column counterweights to make head height changes in a just a few seconds. The common table for the four heads cranked up and down with a jack screw to establish a comfortable working height for the operator.

 

[Modagger]

You did 2 things I wouldn't have the nerve to do and I like them both. I was torn between keeping mine an original CM color, and going with a blue exactly like yours. My dad painted an old Dunlap about the same color and that DP was part of my inspiration for restoring one. That is also a really clean pulley system you designed too. Nicely done.

Thanks BSWS

I appreciate the appreciation.

 

[Modagger]

If it makes you feel better, I am also one to do a resto-mod on a shop tool that I refurbish. Things get added to make a machine work better for me. I don’t use the word restore because that is not what I am doing. I added remote oiler ports to my Bridgeport table lead screw nuts because the original oil method is not a user friendly design.
Your drill press came out great!

Thanks RJ

A kindred spirit.

 

[Modagger]

The gang production drill presses at work had internal column counterweights to make head height changes in a just a few seconds. The common table for the four heads cranked up and down with a jack screw to establish a comfortable working height for the operator.

Looking at other solutions for a counterweight, (all very good), I just had to do something different that wouldn’t interfere with the MSA.

 

[Modagger]

Great job on that restoration, color looks good too.

Thanks Jayman!

 

[Modagger]

What actually is the purpose of the pulley/wheel(?) device in the center post?

I drilled and tapped a 1/4 20 eye bolt into the rear of the table. My plan once I find a suitable piece of round stock close to the weight of the table, is to connect a cable to the eye, run it up and through the pulley configuration, and down to another eye in the center of the round stock. To eliminate the chore of struggling with the table to change height.

Seems like the older I get, the heavier stuff gets. And the lawn seems to be getting larger every time I mow.

Did that help?

Jeff

 

[OccupantRJ]

I would leave about 1/16 to 1/8” clearance between the round stock diameter and the ID of the column for smooth operation to insure no snag. Online steel weight charts will give you weight per inch of the steel size you select. Hopefully needed weight length and travel inside the column will equal out with needed table travel.

 

[Griff79]

The blue you used is a cool color. What is it? I just picked up this exact drill press dated 11/50. I'm embarrassed to say what I paid for it, $50. I'll post some photos of it in the next couple days.
Thanks,
Griff

 

[Modagger]

The blue you used is a cool color. What is it? I just picked up this exact drill press dated 11/50. I'm embarrassed to say what I paid for it, $50. I'll post some photos of it in the next couple days.
Thanks,
Griff

Hi Griff

That’s the kind of embarrassment I can live with.

Here’s the paint info:

Be well
Jeff

 

[Griff79]

Thanks Jeff
Griff

 

[Beerhippie]

Supremely badass. I have zero use for a drill press but I want one so bad, just so I can do a resto on it.

You don't know that you need a drill press because you don't have one!

I lived without one for many years, then I got one and it instantly became indispensable. Couldn't work in the shop without it now--it's a rare day I don't fire it up for something.

 

[Shelbylex]

Great job, Jeff! The blue is definitely a great choice for this version - never thought of that before!!!

 

[Modagger]

Great job, Jeff! The blue is definitely a great choice for this version - never thought of that before!!!

Thanks Shelbylex

There’s a story behind the color.

I knew I was going to chose a non standard color, I just hadn’t landed on a choice yet. My wife and I went on a fact finding mission to Ace Hardware.

So many colors, so little time. I pulled a couple of different cans down and looked them over but nothing really screamed, “I’m the one!”.

My wife pulled the blue off the rack and said, “what about this?”. I hadn’t give blue even a passing thought before she showed me that one. The quest was over.

So as much as I would like to take credit for it, the color choice was hers. I’m glad I brought her along. Well, for that trip anyway.

Jeff

 

[KFBR392]

You don't know that you need a drill press because you don't have one!

I lived without one for many years, then I got one and it instantly became indispensable. Couldn't work in the shop without it now--it's a rare day I don't fire it up for something.

This is what I want to hear!

 

[Beerhippie]

This is what I want to hear!

I'm trying to think of all the roles the drill press serves in the shop, aside from the obvious making holes in things... drum sander, buffer, edge notcher, tap starter... Oh, well, it's late and my thinker has clocked out, but many more.

 

[southalabama]

Looks good.

Like a Lowe’s exclusive Craftsman.

 

[bugzilla46310]

I don’t use the word restore because that is not what I am doing. I added remote oiler ports to my Bridgeport table lead screw nuts because the original oil method is not a user friendly.

I am the same. I always say rebuild but resto mod is probably more accurate. I try to keep them as original as possible but I add a light to the head, have vinyl covering to cover worn non 150 head bands, and a few other things along with new bearings etc. Restoring would require, in my mind, replacing worn logos to original design, and more motor work that I am currently hesitant at doing. As I rebuild to resell “restoring“ would drive the cost up too much.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I am the same. I always say rebuild. I try to keep them as original as possible but I add a light to the head, have vinyl covering to cover worn non 150 head bands, and a few other things along with new bearings etc. Restoring would require, in my mind, replacing worn logos to original design, and more motor work that I am currently hesitant at doing. As I rebuild to resell “restoring“ would drive the cost up too much.

I generally do not sell because I am using whatever I am refurbing, and another entertainment for me is to see how inexpensive I can build up a project. I bought 5 Bridgeport mills, picked the best one to build, then sold off the rest afterward At low prices to shop guys who wanted one. I ended up with the machine powered by a new VFD, installed a new DRO, X and Z power feeds, and came out with no out of pocket in the machine. The Z feed was added right after this picture was taken.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I'm trying to think of all the roles the drill press serves in the shop, aside from the obvious making holes in things... drum sander, buffer, edge notcher, tap starter... Oh, well, it's late and my thinker has clocked out, but many more.

@Beerhippie, can you enlighten me on the edge notcher process you mention? My mind jumps to sheetmetal use.

 

[ecotec]

You may take a bow at your leisure for providing in depth guidance FrankLee.

FrankLee helped me out when I got my Atlas 1010. It was in amazing original condition, but it was missing a couple parts. He sold them to me for a very reasonable price and gave me a tour of his shop.

If I ever buy another vintage drill press, it will be one with three pulleys.

 

[mattthemuppet]

For my walker turner counterweight I used tin cans filled with melted lead. Cans had a piece of pipe going down the vertebrae for a wire rope. Different design to yours as mine was external, but similar idea.

Oh and the color looks fantastic!

 

[Beerhippie]

@Beerhippie, can you enlighten me on the edge notcher process you mention? My mind jumps to sheetmetal use.

Turns out, a step-bit works just fine for notching the edges of sheet metal:



That idea occurred to me shortly after finishing a project where I had to make a bunch of round notches in sheet metal. I did it with an angle grinder and cut-off wheel. The step bit would have been faster, easier and produced a much better looking job.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Turns out, a step-bit works just fine for notching the edges of sheet metal:



That idea occurred to me shortly after finishing a project where I had to make a bunch of round notches in sheet metal. I did it with an angle grinder and cut-off wheel. The step bit would have been faster, easier and produced a much better looking job.

Ok, makes sense.. good idea. Thanks.