What did you do "IN" your garage today?

[rharman]

So, you didn't die. Good job. Carry on.

Or maybe I did, and my bot account is finally up-and-running as specified in my will.

Asimo to the rescue!!!!!

 

[Old Man Roger]

Or maybe I did, and my bot account is finally up-and-running as specified in my will.

There has been a significant drop in puns.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Asimo to the rescue!!!!!

Oh that’s definitely where his consciousness is going when he dies.lol

 

[Metallitubby]

There has been a significant drop in puns.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Man I loved that show.lol

 

[Outlawmws]

Man I loved that show.lol

I don't think that was Lost in Space, he has an army officer's uniform on.

 

[Old Man Roger]

I don't think that was Lost in Space, he has an army officer's uniform on.

Season 1 episode 1 The Reluctant Stowaway.

 

[Outlawmws]

Season 1 episode 1 The Reluctant Stowaway.

I'll take your word for it! I don't recall him ever wearing a Uni again.

 

[Old Man Roger]

The Dr Smith character changed quite a bit from the first episode. He was a more serious bad guy in the beginning, but was later written as a cowardly buffoon who was eventually accepted by the family.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Doctor Smith (Original Series Role)

Dr. Zachary Smith, B.Sc. (Hons.), Ph.D. is an intergalactic doctor of environmental psychology. He was the United States Space Corps' staff psychologist and environmental expert prior to his unexpected departure from Earth. He was an agent for an enemy foreign government. Prior to the launch of...

lostinspace.fandom.com

 

[WildBill]

I installed a Carb Cheater on my 67 Cougar today, coolest thing ever. I don't have any pics but its basically a controlled air bleed valve with a little air filter, a small brain box with GPS and vacuum sensor, and an oxygen sensor. You replace your carb spacer (or add one) with his, it has a front and back port and passages inside to direct the inlet air to each barrel that you connect to the air valve. This device lets me see and set an idle and highway AFR, control a couple of switching outputs and mixture based on RPM, set a rev limiter, and see vacuum level, AFR, speed, RPM etc. on an android app. You can also use it for controlling a line lock or controlling a flame setup among other things with the programmable outputs. And you can graph everything out and look at it later if you want to help tune. He sells a little square device you can use for a permanently mounted customizable display or any android device works. It uses Bluetooth to talk to the device. My old **** phone worked fine.

When I first hooked it up I could see it was opening the valve about 30% because my idle was too rich, I tweaked it a little to get to the default 13.5 AFR and the valve doesn't need to open much at idle anymore. Then on the highway I could see when I was cruising at a steady speed I was sitting at around 12.3 when the default is 14.5, so it opened and kept me at 14.5. Some people go leaner on the highway but that seemed good. I need to go down a jet size I guess to get closer without it working. You can set those AFR values to whatever you want, and also use it for a choke if you set everything up with that in mind. And easily turn the auto tune feature off/on with a button push to help see what's happening, and it always shows what percentage the air bleed is open which really helps. So now changing temps and/or elevation will be automatically compensated for by it, which is pretty neat. My AFR was also dropping down to about 11.2 under hard acceleration, which is lower than ideal for peak power, so it opened to help get that to about 12.7 when I floor it, I could feel the difference turning auto tuning off and on.

Its as handy as a normal AFR meter for tuning your carb but with auto tuning and a bunch of other neat features. And if it dies you can still drive fine, unlike some of the buggy fuel injection systems I've watched my friends fight with on their muscle cars.

The base system is about $300, I think the one with everything is $400. This is a decent amount of money but I really like the carb I have and to do fuel inject I would be around $1k with the pump and everything else to make it work. Plus if this dies I can keep on driving.

Here is the webpage and pics/details. https://thecarbcheater.com

Edit- here are some pics I stole from the series of tubes, there are a bunch of different modes/views you can choose on your phone or you can get the little display that is customizable -

 

[Old Man Roger]

Pretty cool, never heard of it before.

 

[WildBill]

Pretty cool, never heard of it before.

It's great. Plus the guy who made it is a carb expert and has tons of carb and ignition videos on YouTube that are really helpful, seems like a really good guy.

 

[BetterDays]

"the 1900s.." my dude I'm gonna put you on ignore, why are you aging me like that

I am learning to embrace it - - -
slowly...
painfully....
bending over and just embracing it.

 

[bugnut]

Moved things outdoors before more rain, proceeded to back out the riding mower and test. It seems to be working, so take the win. Than started to work on the chain for the grandsons newest shop toy. Think I got the chain shortened and everything reset. Quick handful of trips around the yard and that's done also.

 

[KwikFab]

Few parts arrived from McMaster Carr so I cut them down to size



I've had this bandsaw for well over 3 years and I got it for free. Spent a grand total of $47 bringing it back up to snuff and it's still cutting everything I throw at it on the same blade.

I cut everything from thick square tube, round, solid rod, all in mild steel and stainless.



Need to buy some 3/16" steel to cut out a stool cushion mount and legs, but I've got most of the stuff I need to make another stool.



Inclined to make myself another one in a different leather color.

 

[niget2002]

There are more dangerous and harder ways to make a living, but the constant judgement from non creative people approving or disapproving of your work, the hours, the constant grind, the feast or famine of account management was trying at times for sure.

However for a lot of years, I loved it.

My wife was a graphic design artist for a marketing firm for years. She's a teacher now.

 

[LeonardY]

Killed a bunch of mosquitoes. Moved stuff to the shed. Packed a box to take to my brother.
Cleaned the resin out of the vat on the 3D printer.

 

[Beerhippie]

Worked outside 'til it got too hot. Went to the hardware store for some paint supplies and had a really hard time leaving--it's got AC. I guess if you want to sit in a chair in the store and read a book while sipping a cold barley pop, they expect you to buy the damned chair. Awful narrow-minded, you ask me.

 

[nadogail]

Assembled two 31" Window Boxes, loaned a neighbor two Wrenches (he returned them promptly).

 

[FLHCHAZ]

pulled the decks off the Husqvarna and cub cadet XT2 to clean then and sharpen the blades. Put everything back together.

 

[Skyman]

I installed a Carb Cheater on my 67 Cougar today, coolest thing ever. I don't have any pics but its basically a controlled air bleed valve with a little air filter, a small brain box with GPS and vacuum sensor, and an oxygen sensor. You replace your carb spacer (or add one) with his, it has a front and back port and passages inside to direct the inlet air to each barrel that you connect to the air valve. This device lets me see and set an idle and highway AFR, control a couple of switching outputs and mixture based on RPM, set a rev limiter, and see vacuum level, AFR, speed, RPM etc. on an android app. You can also use it for controlling a line lock or controlling a flame setup among other things with the programmable outputs. And you can graph everything out and look at it later if you want to help tune. He sells a little square device you can use for a permanently mounted customizable display or any android device works. It uses Bluetooth to talk to the device. My old **** phone worked fine.

When I first hooked it up I could see it was opening the valve about 30% because my idle was too rich, I tweaked it a little to get to the default 13.5 AFR and the valve doesn't need to open much at idle anymore. Then on the highway I could see when I was cruising at a steady speed I was sitting at around 12.3 when the default is 14.5, so it opened and kept me at 14.5. Some people go leaner on the highway but that seemed good. I need to go down a jet size I guess to get closer without it working. You can set those AFR values to whatever you want, and also use it for a choke if you set everything up with that in mind. And easily turn the auto tune feature off/on with a button push to help see what's happening, and it always shows what percentage the air bleed is open which really helps. So now changing temps and/or elevation will be automatically compensated for by it, which is pretty neat. My AFR was also dropping down to about 11.2 under hard acceleration, which is lower than ideal for peak power, so it opened to help get that to about 12.7 when I floor it, I could feel the difference turning auto tuning off and on.

Its as handy as a normal AFR meter for tuning your carb but with auto tuning and a bunch of other neat features. And if it dies you can still drive fine, unlike some of the buggy fuel injection systems I've watched my friends fight with on their muscle cars.

The base system is about $300, I think the one with everything is $400. This is a decent amount of money but I really like the carb I have and to do fuel inject I would be around $1k with the pump and everything else to make it work. Plus if this dies I can keep on driving.

Here is the webpage and pics/details. https://thecarbcheater.com

Edit- here are some pics I stole from the series of tubes, there are a bunch of different modes/views you can choose on your phone or you can get the little display that is customizable -

It's pretty cool to see that somebody brought this concept back to life as an aftermarket product. Thanks for posting this.

 

[SMOKEYBEAR]

Simple boat/ Mercury work while I wait for parts.

Noticed water coming out of the lower cowl while using the wash down. Easy find, significant leak and pretty easy fix. Hose is supposed to be here Friday, I already have the Oetiker clamps. Removed the old one and waiting...

Removed the front navigation light/ horn combo...age caught up to it. New one is on the way.

I have 20 min worth of work to get it back together once the parts arrive.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Loosened the oil plug on a friend's car. ****** lube slapped it on at over 200 ftlbs. I needed the big air wrench to get it out. I'm surprised that the oil pan survived. I tightened it back on by hand with a 6 inch ratchet.

 

[DGersic]

Finished this phase of the door refinishing project.

The bedroom closet door had this crappy plastic coat hook set on it. I used it to mark about where it was and taped a yardstick level.



I found a set of bright brass coat hooks on Amazon. Marked and mounted.



Reinstalled the knobs and latches. Reinstalled the hinges.



Then hauled them in to the house and re-hung them. Three more done, three more to go.

 

[Outlawmws]

I have 20 min worth of work to get it back together once the parts arrive.

You know you just jinxed it...

 

[SMOKEYBEAR]

You know you just jinxed it...

I like to challenge myself.

Between the two items, its 4 screws, 1 plug, 4 bolts and 2 clamps.

 

[Outlawmws]

I like to challenge myself.

Between the two items, its 4 screws, 1 plug, 4 bolts and 2 clamps.

One screw will snap off flush on initial torque, the plug will strip and one clamp will fall apart on use...

 

[nadogail]

Looked at a box that i put together yesterday and added glue to a gap in a joint.
Decided that the exterior of the box would look better if it was sanded, so took a look at the 12" Harbor Freight sander, on the bottom shelf of a cabinet.
Decided that the Disk Sander should be put on a table or stand, decided to wait until I have some muscle to pick it up.
Checked my lumber pile and found half of what i will need to build a rolling stand for the Sander, made a mental shopping list.

 

[BetterDays]

Small progress of disassembling the old bench and putting totes in the new bench. I can fit 5 wide or arrange them 2 deep to fit 7 per shelf. May depend on what is being stored.
Old bench is now torn down and ready to burn / scrap metal.
Progress is progress

 

[Beerhippie]

It cooled off enough to light up my latest rescue dawgs:

 

[BetterDays]

pulled the decks off the Husqvarna and cub cadet XT2 to clean then and sharpen the blades. Put everything back together.

Any tricks you use on the xt2 on keeping the decks cleaner or just constant maintenance?

 

[Beerhippie]

While I was at it, I lit up Red Frank:



As I hadn't done it yet.

And... found that two of my three Rinnai C199s are leaking. I cleaned one today and it's not unusual for that to trigger a leak... usually just an o-ring... not this time. It'll take full on thoracic surgery to fix this, and likely means it's time for heart-lung transplant. The other one is a spontaneous leak, but a simple o-ring to fix. I think....

 

[LeonardY]

Out front of the garage. Washed the truck and did some minor detailing.

I lit a mosquito punk in the garage. I must have killed 10 or 15 mosquitos last night. I thought I got them all. As soon as the punk got going 2 more came out of hiding. Zapped them. I didn't see any this evening in the garage.

 

[Beerhippie]

Here's the patient:



The green arrow points to a pretty bad aneurysm. I could solder it, but I'll have to remove the entire guts of the unit-from the stainless part at the bottom to the aluminum part at the top--to get to it, and it likely indicates that the copper bit in the middle there, which is the primary heat exchanger, is shot through and leaking. Fortunately, I have an entire spare Rinnai that I can just remove all the guts from and transplant them. Easy four hour job....

 

[PhantomEB]

I finished the 5/'37 220B I found yesterday. She's been rode hard and put up wet, but not too bad.

So you don't have to go looking for it, here's the before:



And after:



The original vent was bashed in on top and it didn't have a globe. I stole both from a 220E. The B vent is a darker green, but we'll just keep that between ourselves, OK?

I did get a nice globe, if not exactly period-correct:



I might still finish one 200A today, but I'm easily distracted by shiny nickel-plate.

Maybe I'll light 'er up when it cools off some.

TFL--

Another one down:



This is a 10/'59 200A--Coleman's most produced model of single-burner lanterns, from 1951 to '83.

Now I need to start trying to sell a few more of these....

What do you use to restore these? Not so worried about paint codes but the rust removal, glass source…..I have a few out in the garage that need to be cleaned up.

 

[PhantomEB]

Finally got power steering done on the bronco.

There was a hiccup of reversed lines on the steering box which was found thru a schematic being wrong. Major death wobble and knuckle busting erratic steering wheel could of led to months with a broken finger or worse.

Fixed the lines and bang I now have steering with a finger.

Time to clean up shop and pack for camping this weekend. It my brothers birthday as well I need some reset time.

When I get back it will be install the fittings for the steering ram and go after leaks. Then all that’s left is brakes and wiring.

 

[rd65]

Sat in the shop and enjoyed a beer and some FM. May have dozed off for a minute or two.

 

[Beerhippie]

What do you use to restore these? Not so worried about paint codes but the rust removal, glass source…..I have a few out in the garage that need to be cleaned up.

Everything that isn't pained or aluminum goes into the USC with a hot lye solution for a half hour, gets a rinse with very hot water, then back into the USC with a hot sodium citrate solution. Painted and aluminum parts get a scrub with a soft pad and dishsoap.

The ventilator (hat) is porcelain enamel, not paint. Mild acids will etch it and leave it with a matte finish--permanently--but the citrate just gets it nice and gleaming.

I finish up the nickel-plated parts with Mother Mag and Aluminum polish using another soft pad, then a quick finish with a very soft and slow rag buffing wheel--NO ROUGE! Rouge will cut through the thin nickel plate almost instantly!

Then everything that doesn't get hot gets waxed with Mother's California Synthetic--but use your favorite.

Put it back together the same way it came apart, unless that was wrong.

For parts, glass, etc, check out Old Coleman Parts online: https://www.oldcolemanparts.com/

For a lot more information, go to: https://colemancollectorsforum.com/index.php?sid=448089e55e3c4e7ae4f8172627253e89

Tell 'em the Hippie and Outlaw sent you.

 

[BetterDays]

Sat in the shop and enjoyed a beer and some FM. May have dozed off for a minute or two.

Translation: Got drunk and passed out listening to music.