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ZMotorsports Shop Projects 2.0

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zmotorsports

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Continuing on.

Next it was time to attack the A/C belt which is a stretch belt. Tool installed and the crank pulley turned to walk the belt off the balancer pulley.
cam11.jpg

cam12.jpg

Stretch belt removed and it too was the correct one.
cam13.jpg

Same as the main belt, this one looks pretty good even at 13 years old.
cam14.jpg

Original belts packaged up and ready to reside in the trunk as spares.
cam15.jpg

I did notice that I had two idler pulleys that spun freely a bit more than I like so I will be replacing those as it goes back together.

Thanks for looking.
 
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OutlawDrifter

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I do the same with the belts I take off, Mike. They go somewhere in vehicle as a spare. The Suburban even has a serpentine belt tool kit strapped to the molle panel in the back, since it typically is the travelling vehicle.

I'll be interested to see what the plugs look like. I've pulled ACDelco Iridiums out at 130k that gapped properly.
 
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zmotorsports

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I do the same with the belts I take off, Mike. They go somewhere in vehicle as a spare. The Suburban even has a serpentine belt tool kit strapped to the molle panel in the back, since it typically is the travelling vehicle.

I'll be interested to see what the plugs look like. I've pulled ACDelco Iridiums out at 130k that gapped properly.

Thanks Marc. I am anticipating the plugs will look pretty good. I replaced the ones in my Jeep with the L94 at similar mileage when I lost the valve spring and they still looked pretty decent. Changing them on the Camaro is more of a "feel good" thing at this mileage and age. :bounce: I did all of the fluids a while ago and didn't think the belts and plugs were as high of a priority as the fluids, but now I just want to do them because I have had them sitting on the shelf for a few months and I am trying to clear off my "to do" list so I can move on to some other things.
 

WoodsTruck

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You mention a free spinning idler. Is there a formal test for this, or just years of experience?
I need to get after the belts on my F150 before winter and curious about replacing the adjusting idlers at that time. 169K.
 
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zmotorsports

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You mention a free spinning idler. Is there a formal test for this, or just years of experience?
I need to get after the belts on my F150 before winter and curious about replacing the adjusting idlers at that time. 169K.

I guess you could just call it experience as I know of nothing formal. If you spin the pulley and it free spins a lot it means it is lacking lubrication and the ball bearings are just spinning with no resistance, even if they are spinning silent. If they have adequate grease in them, they will turn a couple of revolutions maybe before they slow to a stop. Then obviously if they are making noise or feel "gritty" or catching when you turn or spin them by hand then they are definitely due or even past due for replacement.
 

npp

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Continuing on.

Next it was time to attack the A/C belt which is a stretch belt. Tool installed and the crank pulley turned to walk the belt off the balancer pulley.
cam11.jpg

cam12.jpg

Stretch belt removed and it too was the correct one.
cam13.jpg

Same as the main belt, this one looks pretty good even at 13 years old.
cam14.jpg

Original belts packaged up and ready to reside in the trunk as spares.
cam15.jpg

I did notice that I had two idler pulleys that spun freely a bit more than I like so I will be replacing those as it goes back together.

Thanks for looking.
That’s a great way to go about it. Marine people will put on replacement belts and simple parts when new so they know they fit and have original parts as spares. Better than finding out in the middle of the ocean that the spare don’t fit.
 

Scuderia-F1

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Last night I decided to rack the Camaro for a LOF service as well as throw a few maintenance items at it that have been sitting on the shelf for several months. I have just under 67k miles on it and figured I would replace the belts and spark plugs. Looking at my notes last night, it is coming up on 3 years since I purchased this thing and the wife and I have only put ~5k miles on it in those 3 years. It is a blast to drive, but I really need to get this thing out and drive it more. :unsure:

I was a little anxious about driving it through the new lift as the arms are so massive on my new Bendpak 12APX. On my Ammco 10k pound lift, the front arms were not offset so I had to pull the car through the columns past the doors, get out and kick the arms under the car then back up so they'd clear the front tires.
cam1.jpg

On this lift with the offset front arms I can kick the front arms back parallel to the rear arms, then drive through and stage the car properly between the columns.
cam2.jpg

Then I can swing the front arms forward to reach under the car. I was being extra cautious this first time until I could confirm all of the arms and pads cleared the body so I didn't introduce any new scratches or dings to the car. The front arms clear, barely, but they swing forward nice and smooth, then the innermost (smallest) tube could be extended and the pad threaded up to make contact with the body without contacting any of the skirting or body cladding around the car.
cam3.jpg

Rear was a mixed bag, the contact point was a bit further under the car and just out of reach for the threaded telescoping pad mounts, so a short (2.5") adapter was inserted and then the pad could be screwed to almost the lowest point and both front and rear could lift evenly and level. THIS is why I prefer the threaded telescoping pads slightly over the standard frame cradle mounts that the lift comes with. For cars and most SUV's I prefer the adjustable pads and the trucks and Jeeps with full frames I like the frame cradles.
cam4.jpg

I love the height that this thing raises to as well. About 8 inches more than my previous lift.
cam5.jpg

I grabbed my document book for the car so I could update the records. I plan on keeping this current so when I'm gone maybe it will have some meaning to either my son or grandson who will inherit the car.
cam6.jpg

cam7.jpg

I wanted to get the belts off to ensure that I have purchased the correct ones.
cam8.jpg

Main belt looks correct.
cam9.jpg

It is actually in good condition and probably didn't need to be replaced with only 67k miles, but it is also 13 years old so I figured it would be good to install new and carry these as spares.
cam10.jpg


Stay tuned for more.
As I’m sure you already know, belts these days don’t crack. If you don’t already have one of them little belt testi/reading tools. I suggest you ask for one next time you’re at your NAPA etc. They will probably hand you a few free of charge. It’s an easy way to tell a go or no go. As they read the profile of the grooves.

That Camaro sure looks sweet, I’m a big fan of your wheel refurbishment.
 

Jarhead0408

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Who knows?
I guess you could just call it experience as I know of nothing formal. If you spin the pulley and it free spins a lot it means it is lacking lubrication and the ball bearings are just spinning with no resistance, even if they are spinning silent. If they have adequate grease in them, they will turn a couple of revolutions maybe before they slow to a stop. Then obviously if they are making noise or feel "gritty" or catching when you turn or spin them by hand then they are definitely due or even past due for replacement.
Now that makes sense. I'm doing a power steering pump and a water pump on our Suburban amongst other things. I'll give the remaining pulleys a 2nd spin and evaluate them all over again. Thanks.
 
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zmotorsports

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That’s a great way to go about it. Marine people will put on replacement belts and simple parts when new so they know they fit and have original parts as spares. Better than finding out in the middle of the ocean that the spare don’t fit.

Thanks. Started doing that about 30+ years ago when we first started RV'ing. Install the new components and keep the previous ones that are known to be a perfect fit for those "what-if" moments out on the road when no parts stores around.

This is especially important when dealing with things like engine swaps or customization where the original parts are not direct fits.


As I’m sure you already know, belts these days don’t crack. If you don’t already have one of them little belt testi/reading tools. I suggest you ask for one next time you’re at your NAPA etc. They will probably hand you a few free of charge. It’s an easy way to tell a go or no go. As they read the profile of the grooves.

That Camaro sure looks sweet, I’m a big fan of your wheel refurbishment.

Thanks Anders, although they don't crack like they used to, they do show signs of degradation in the ribbing. Yes, those plastic belt reading tools come in handy to verify the grooves are in good condition are worthwhile to have on hand. I'm not sure what they are called exactly, but I just refer to them as "belt cards" because they are usually just about the size of a credit card and have a couple different groove patterns on them to match up. Depending on whether a 4, 5 or 6 rib style. I probably should have shown that while I was at it.


@zmotorsports

You could send off your old circuit card to them and have it R&R and have it 100%

Not sure what circuit card you are referring to Dave. If you are referring to the engine control module on the coach, there is nothing wrong with the OEM one I removed so no need to send it off for repairs, I just put it in the coach as the backup/spare.


Now that makes sense. I'm doing a power steering pump and a water pump on our Suburban amongst other things. I'll give the remaining pulleys a 2nd spin and evaluate them all over again. Thanks.

Glad the definition made sense.
 
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zmotorsports

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Hope everyone had a great weekend.

Friday night I performed my edge, trim and mowing ritual so I can enjoy my Saturday mornings on the deck with my coffee and enjoy the peace and quiet of the morning while the sun comes up and the world comes to life. I can easily start seeing this as a daily ritual once retirement gets here. Unfortunately, I had a hard time relaxing completely as I watched my sprinklers due to having a couple that I noticed were not spraying far enough. It appears I have a couple more that are not rising enough above the grass to get much distance so I'll have to raise a few more. Probably the reason for my couple of dry spots that I've been fighting over the past few weeks. :unsure: I did mow the new sections of grass for the first time by raising the mower deck to it's highest setting after mowing the rest of the lawn. I'll sneak up on the final height so it matches the rest of the lawn later this week.
satdeck.jpg

After about 3 or 6 cups of coffee, I headed out to the shop to continue work on the Camaro. I started by installing the A/C stretch belt.
cam1.jpg

Then proceeded to install the main accessory serpentine belt. My local dealership didn't have the two idler pulleys that I needed and would have to order them. My local NAPA didn't have any Gates ones in stock either so I ordered a couple of OEM GM pulleys from Rock Auto. I was shocked that even with my dealer pricing at the local GM dealership, Rock Auto was half the cost. I purchased two from them for what they wanted for one from my local GM dealer. Makes it really hard to support local when they pull that ****. :rolleyes:
cam1a.jpg

With the belts installed and the original pulleys installed temporarily until the new ones arrive, it was time to turn my attention to the spark plugs. I don't know how others do it, but I like to tackle the hardest side of any job first and get it out of the way and finish up with the easier side. The passenger side is very tight between the strut tower and head so I grabbed a variety of spark plug sockets to see which would work best.
cam3.jpg

Turns out my age old Snap-on standard 5/8" spark plug socket gave me the best shot. Once broken loose, a stubby flex head ratchet and stubby extension worked perfectly.
cam4.jpg

This was the winning combination for the remainder of the plugs.
cam5.jpg

Then after testing wires and adding dielectric grease to the boots I began reassembly. Fitting the torque wrench into the area was not as easy as I would have liked, but it eventually got the job done. Cylinder 6 and 8 were the worst on this side.
cam6.jpg

Testing the wires as they came out of the car.
cam7.jpg

And adding a small amount of dielectric grease to the insides of the boots to seal them off as well as aid in removal for next time.
cam8.jpg

Right bank completed.
cam9.jpg


More to follow.
 
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Continuing on.

Repeated the process on the driver's side starting at cylinder #7 and working forward.
cam11.jpg

Spark plugs completed and original plugs boxed up and labeled.
cam12.jpg

Moving on to draining the oil.
cam13.jpg

Oil drained and new oil filter installed.
cam14.jpg

Drain plug torqued to spec.
cam15.jpg

After adding 8 quarts of Valvoline oil, I cleaned off the top of the engine with Zep Power House before reinstalling the engine cover.
cam16.jpg

Engine cover cleaned and reinstalled.
cam17.jpg

Spare belts placed in the trunk under the spare tire. Also double checked the spare's pressure while I was in there.
cam18.jpg

Engine bay wiped down and finished up.
cam19.jpg

Test drive complete and parked ready for a night out with the wife.
cam20.jpg


The wife and I decided to take a drive up to Kamas, UT for dinner. A little town east of us about 75 miles that has a nice little old school diner that serves a great prime rib on Friday and Saturday nights. This thing is so fun and a joy to drive we really need to get it out more often and enjoy it. I keep saying that but time gets away from me and it sits much of the time in the shop under cover. Maybe it's because I hate the next day's cleaning to get the bugs off of it. :unsure:
 
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zmotorsports

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Sunday just after finishing up coffee on the deck I decided to wash the bugs off the front of the Camaro. Once I got the car washed and parked back in the shop I decided to dig up those couple of sprinkler heads that appeared to be too low. Turns out I ended up digging up and raising about 8 sprinkler heads while I had the shovel and tools out. I keep telling the wife I think I'm done digging in the yard, but after 8 years now I don't see that getting any better. :rolleyes:

That looks like much better coverage . Here you can better see the section in the background that I mowed at a higher level.
sundeck.jpg

Just as I was wrapping up things in the yard, the wife came out to bring my pulleys that were delivered from Rock Auto already. I figured I may as well install them before I put the cover back on the car.
cam21.jpg

I'll keep the originals in the cupboard as they are not totally gone, just lacking some lubrication. I figure one sure way to not need them is to keep them. :bounce:
cam22.jpg

Installation was a simple matter of slipping the belt off these two pulleys, replaceing the pulleys and then slipping the belt back on. Took all of about 5-minutes. Then I closed it up and put the car cover back on.
cam23.jpg
 

madison069

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Camaro is looking sharp!

I need to do some maintenance on the 2012 F250 of mine. It will need the full treatment from bumper to bumper as I know my dad didn't do anything except oil changes, oil filter, and air filter changes. So, with 96,000 miles on it I will just do the whole thing. Wish I had a lift to do it all with though.
 
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zmotorsports

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Camaro is looking sharp!

I need to do some maintenance on the 2012 F250 of mine. It will need the full treatment from bumper to bumper as I know my dad didn't do anything except oil changes, oil filter, and air filter changes. So, with 96,000 miles on it I will just do the whole thing. Wish I had a lift to do it all with though.

Thanks Cody. Yeah, a lift is a gamechanger for sure. I remember when I bought my first one in early 2011 and both my son and I thought it was the best thing since sliced bread. For decades prior I worked off of jackstands and floorjacks and being able to stand and work under a car was a pivotal moment in our shop.
 

Trapps

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Mike, from a few posts back, your 'document books' are great! I keep a very detailed journal in Excel for my vehicles, but all receipts, product literature and other documents live in a 3 ring binder. I like that you've added dividers for different sections to yours and may have to swipe that idea from you. I did go a bit OCD nutbar, the fonts used for the binder labels are as close as I could find to the OEM font.
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike, from a few posts back, your 'document books' are great! I keep a very detailed journal in Excel for my vehicles, but all receipts, product literature and other documents live in a 3 ring binder. I like that you've added dividers for different sections to yours and may have to swipe that idea from you. I did go a bit OCD nutbar, the fonts used for the binder labels are as close as I could find to the OEM font.

Thank you. While I live by electronic maintenance records at work using a CMMS (Computerized Maintenance Management System), I truly love handwritten logbooks for my personal vehicles. Not sure what it is, something old school and nostalgic about it. Plus, when I'm gone I would like my son and grandson to have my handwritten notes and documentation on the vehicles that they will inherit. Not sure if it will mean as much to them or not, but I miss not having more handwritten documentation from my dad. I have some Motor magazines with handwritten notes in the margins from a mentor of mine and they are priceless in my mind.
 

WoodsTruck

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We have and use digital safety notes at work. They tend to be just minimal box checking exercises.
You will likely end up with more information when you take notes on pertinent information especially if there isn't a pre-printed box for it.
 

CGarage

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As far as parts sourcing goes, the dealerships in the US are independently owned. The dealership can set whatever parts and service prices it likes. It pays to shop around. There are dramatic cost savings to be had by doing this. Even if you have to go out of state.
GMWarehouseDirect stocks something like ~ $10M USD in parts and has 300,000+ part numbers on hand in a ~ 2 millon cubic foot warehouse. GM Parts Giant and GM Parts Now are also worth talking to.

Sometimes you can get local dealers to price match or better their price when you inform them you will go elsewhere if they are not competitive.
 

rharman

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< snip >

I then made a label to put on the hydraulic reservoir. I may need to make another as it's a little off plumb. :ROFLMAO:
bp28.jpg

/snip >

Funny how people end up ruining good things Thom.

< snip >
Several months later when we brought our son home from the hospital this same forklift operator approached me asking what brand of diapers and formula we used because he was pretty sure some would be damaged later that day. :oops: That's when it hit me, why we were seeing such an uptick in damage in the warehouse. I guess I always have been slow to catch on to things but this didn't seem right.
< /snip >

I wouldn't call it slow to catch on Mike, some of us just don't have the mentality of those that take advantage of things like that.

But just think if your company still did those things, just unhook a few wires on a scissor lift and tell them it's unfixable and they need a new one and then buy it for pennies! I'm just joking of coarse but I'm there's lots of people out there that think like that.

Crooked labels really trigger me. When I was running an IT shop, all my techs knew the equipment labels had to be straight. One day, after a department meeting, one of them asked me to help him with something on a new PC setup in our lab. I walk in and every component (CPU, monitor, keyboard....) had a label that looked like it was installed by Mr. Magoo without his glasses. I just turned around and walked out - they loved it!

Once, I saw a commercial for some product - I think it was Dyson - and they showed part of the assembly. At the end, the cradle with the vac stops, a laser line was projected on it, and a label applied. Fantastic!!

Working in IT retail environments, I had to learn to think like a crook. That was a struggle for me at first. Programming audits and safeguards to handle young cashiers dealing with 10's of thousands of $$ daily.

Semi-related to your forklift guy but much more light-hearted.... My dad told me that, when he was young (1930's), a guy asked him and a few other young fellows to help unload some watermelons at the produce mart. The guy, with a smile, said something like "Be careful boys. It's pretty hot and it'd be a shame if a watermelon got dropped because then we couldn't sell it." Danged if the next one off the truck just happened to get dropped. :bounce:
 
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mercracing

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Mike, random question. How do you wash/flush the underside of the Camaro? I am contemplating a fun car, one that wouldn’t see a car wash. This would be my first non-car wash vehicle, so I was curious how you do it.
 

CGarage

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Or just go elsewhere. Life's too short to have to fight for a better price.


No it’s not. Everything in life is negotiable. In Utah, I do not think there are multiple GM dealers on every corner, like in some major US cities. I have only been to Utah once, years ago, so perhaps it has changed since I visited.
 

PugetDude

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No it’s not. Everything in life is negotiable. In Utah, I do not think there are multiple GM dealers on every corner, like in some major US cities. I have only been to Utah once, years ago, so perhaps it has changed since I visited.
Unless it's a true emergency there is no longer any reason to be held hostage by Ben Dover Auto Parts, plenty of other options online with fast delivery .
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike, random question. How do you wash/flush the underside of the Camaro? I am contemplating a fun car, one that wouldn’t see a car wash. This would be my first non-car wash vehicle, so I was curious how you do it.

I've only done this a couple of times but when I have driven in rain and I know the undercarriage is dirty, I will put the car on jackstands just outside the shop, on the apron, where I can reach it with an air hose. I have some degreaser/cleaner in a 1-gallon yard sprayer that I use to soak the undercarriage down prior to using the pressure washer. I then allow it to dry off a bit before rolling under it with a creeper and compressed air to blow off the remainder.

For the most part the undercarriage really doesn't get it that bad so while I have it on the lift doing other routine maintenance tasks, I will grab some Zep Power House and hit the trouble spots and that seems to work well and is quick, especially with the car already on the lift.
 

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zmotorsports

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I've seen those, but I personally just use my Stihl RD600 pressure washer and shoot from one side across the undercarriage to the other and then swap sides. As for salt, I don't drive the Camaro on salted roads. My other vehicles that do see winter driving get similar pressure washing of the undercarriage, but they are not quite as clean underneath as our Camaro.
 

WoodsTruck

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I ended up using a simple oscillating sprinkler under my pickup and enclosed sled trailer this spring to flush as much salt and crud out of the chassis as I could. Not much pressure but hopefully made up for it in volume to dilute the damaging agents.
 

ntsqd

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No salt here, but occasionally a trip has me driving on muddy desert roads near silt basins or Badwater (West Side Road). A bow sprinkler works for ~85-90% of the mud, but that stuff leaves behind a very corrosive film that is hard to remove. My pressure washer alone won't get it off. I really need to research being more proactive and using products like waxoil or something.
 

CGarage

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@zmotorsports

A question I have been pondering. There are some people I have encountered who think it is possible to get by with the bare minimum in terms of tooling. They have a minimalist approach to tools- and life.

Have you ever encountered someone whom you felt was a total professional and able to competently tackle a variety of jobs who followed this philosophy?

On the flip side of the coin, I remember visiting a Goodyear franchise truck shop in a rural area of the U.S. about 20+ years ago. I saw a mechanic (technician) working there who had a giant, double decker MAC toolbox and was very proud of his $50K US in tools, but couldn’t solve a simple issue with retracting a brake piston. A C-clamp would have easily worked.

In your professional experience, what gives?
Are there highly competent and professional minimalists who get buy with ingenuity and the bare minimum?
How often are those with giant tool collections all show and little go?
 

madison069

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@zmotorsports

A question I have been pondering. There are some people I have encountered who think it is possible to get by with the bare minimum in terms of tooling. They have a minimalist approach to tools- and life.

Have you ever encountered someone whom you felt was a total professional and able to competently tackle a variety of jobs who followed this philosophy?

On the flip side of the coin, I remember visiting a Goodyear franchise truck shop in a rural area of the U.S. about 20+ years ago. I saw a mechanic (technician) working there who had a giant, double decker MAC toolbox and was very proud of his $50K US in tools, but couldn’t solve a simple issue with retracting a brake piston. A C-clamp would have easily worked.

In your professional experience, what gives?
Are there highly competent and professional minimalists who get buy with ingenuity and the bare minimum?
How often are those with giant tool collections all show and little go?

If the person only worked on one car with no computer, worked on basic appliances that had no computers, and didn't branch out of their own little world of items to work on, then yea I know it's possible to have basic hand tools to work on everything in that person world.

The problem is when you start adding computer and variety of items to work on, then the number of tools goes up. Also, how far in depth does that person go with working on their vehicles? If it's just simple oil change, air filter, brakes, and simple items then there's no need for all of the tools most of us have in the garage. But then you will be taking the vehicle to a shop to have them repair it when it gets beyond that scope of work.

More and more tools are getting to be diagnostic tools, specialty one off tool for a particular brand, and tools that speeds up the job compared to doing it the way of simple hand tools.

If you can limit what you work on, then you can do what's called the 5S principle, unfortunately most of us works on more than one thing only and requires the large number of tools we have.
 
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zmotorsports

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@zmotorsports

A question I have been pondering. There are some people I have encountered who think it is possible to get by with the bare minimum in terms of tooling. They have a minimalist approach to tools- and life.

Have you ever encountered someone whom you felt was a total professional and able to competently tackle a variety of jobs who followed this philosophy?

On the flip side of the coin, I remember visiting a Goodyear franchise truck shop in a rural area of the U.S. about 20+ years ago. I saw a mechanic (technician) working there who had a giant, double decker MAC toolbox and was very proud of his $50K US in tools, but couldn’t solve a simple issue with retracting a brake piston. A C-clamp would have easily worked.

In your professional experience, what gives?
Are there highly competent and professional minimalists who get buy with ingenuity and the bare minimum?
How often are those with giant tool collections all show and little go?

If the person only worked on one car with no computer, worked on basic appliances that had no computers, and didn't branch out of their own little world of items to work on, then yea I know it's possible to have basic hand tools to work on everything in that person world.

The problem is when you start adding computer and variety of items to work on, then the number of tools goes up. Also, how far in depth does that person go with working on their vehicles? If it's just simple oil change, air filter, brakes, and simple items then there's no need for all of the tools most of us have in the garage. But then you will be taking the vehicle to a shop to have them repair it when it gets beyond that scope of work.

More and more tools are getting to be diagnostic tools, specialty one off tool for a particular brand, and tools that speeds up the job compared to doing it the way of simple hand tools.

If you can limit what you work on, then you can do what's called the 5S principle, unfortunately most of us works on more than one thing only and requires the large number of tools we have.


I don't know that I could say it any better than Cody @madison069.

I started out with the absolute bare minimum of tools. In fact, my assortment was a basic set of wrenches, a few pliers, screwdrivers and a 3/8" socket set. I did a LOT of work using those basic tools, but that work consisted of mainly brakes, routine maintenance and then I slowly started getting in to tune-ups. This was in the 80's so prior to ECM's, EFI and O/D transmissions, so about as basic as it gets.

As I started learning more and improving my skillset, I was also being asked to do more in-depth repairs I used part of my side job money to buy additional tools to do more work. By late 80's/early 90's and just recently married, money was tight so I was trying to do as much as possible with as few tools as I absolutely needed. Unfortunately, I found myself having to turn work away simply because I wasn't equipped to do the jobs, either in tools or specific knowledge because I didn't have the required tools.

Back to your actual question, I don't think it is quite as cut and dry. Do I think there are mechanics that can do high quality work with minimal tools? Yes, as long as the jobs they are performing don't require specialty tools or advanced equipment. For example, can a guy charge an A/C system using a refrigerant charge with a low side gauge? Yes. Should a person use this procedure and charge money for it? In my opinion, no. That is a DIY approach and there are inherent risks and/or gambles. Can a lot of diagnosis be accomplished with a good VOM without an oscilloscope? Absolutely, remember an oscilloscope is basically a device that measures voltage over time. Therefore a VOM may not be able to capture some glitches or faults, but a lot can be diagnosed with a VOM meter.


Next part of your question, do I think there are some that are all show and no go? Ab-so-frea-kin-lutely. I liken it to the phrase of "all hat and no cattle".

Do I think good mechanics need the highest level or grade/brand of tools? No. Most who follow my thread or have read my comments can deduce that I have a strong personal choice when it comes to tools, but I also feel not every tool needs to be Snap-on. Do I have a lot of Snap-on, MAC, and Matco tools? Yes, I have a propensity to purchase quality tools but that is just as much of a personal choice as it is needing the tool to do specific tasks.

On the flip side I have worked with mechanics and seen mechanics at other shops that had the biggest and baddest toolbox, all the latest and greatest Snap-on this or MAC that but when push comes to shove, they couldn't fix their way out of a paper sack. We had a mechanic fairly recently that would go on the tool trucks and purchase tools weekly that he neither had the skillset at the time to use, nor the need for, but he had them in his toolbox. He really struggled with even the most basic mechanical principles and don't even get me started on electrical systems. He asked my opinion about a meter one day and I gave him a couple of fairly inexpensive recommendations to get him going and told him to keep it simple and then he could upgrade as time went on, but a basic one will allow him to do the vast majority of what he needed. He came into my office a week or so later with his brand new Snap-on meter that was loaded with options, even bluetoothed to his phone. :rolleyes: He completely missed the boat on my trying to help him. I walked through the shop on multiple occasions and like to meandor up to the mechanics while they are performing various tasks and just observe and many times a conversation will erupt pertaining to how I would do something or they would explain a particular scenario. Any one of my mechanics know when they are working on an electrical problem and they ask for my help that they had damned well better have their meter in their hands when I walk up. On multiple occasions I would walk into the shop and this particular mechanic (I use that term loosely with this person) and he would have wires disconnected and pulled apart and pulling his hair out. He'd ask me for assistance and the first question I'd ask is where is your meter? Crickets. You'd think a person would get that through their head after the first time, or the second time for sure, but this happened at least a dozen times over the course of a few months and he never caught on. I would explain that his meter IS his window into the system and without that he cannot properly diagnose and only guess, but he loved to throw parts at things and I would make mention on many occasions how I feel about parts swappers.

The other mechanics saw it as well and would joke with him about it. One day he asked one of his coworkers to help him with a problem and the mechanic walked to his toolbox and said "do you hear that? It's that fancy meter of yours saying it wants to go with me so it will come out of the drawer once in a while." It was funny, but he still didn't get it.

Needless to say he is no longer employed here as of a few months ago. There is only so much you can do to help someone, but like my dad always said; "you can't help someone who won't help themselves."

Long answer, but I've seen both sides. Yes, there are some good mechanics that can and some good work with minimal tools if they specialize or stay in their lane. However, if they want to branch out and work on a variety of things, then there will need to be some expenditure of cash to obtain the necessary tools. In my experience those at the top of their game will have quite a few tools that make the jobs go faster, easier and ultimately earn them more money. That speed and proficiency can be passed along to their customers in less billed hours, if they are also an honest mechanic. The other side of that is quality of work. Speed of repair isn't always a good thing, as quality in my opinion matters more so than speed. If a mechanic is just trying to go through the motions to get to the fastest repair, it doesn't necessarily mean he's the best. Speed and high quality seldom go hand in hand.
 
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OutlawDrifter

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Agree on the sentiments presented in the prior posts. Even the most "ultimate set of tools" (hoping some get the reference) won't make up for a lack of skill/knowledge/experience.

Some of us grew up having to field repair equipment with the random tools in the toolbox of the tractor, so you learn how to make what you have work.
 
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zmotorsports

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Agree on the sentiments presented in the prior posts. Even the most "ultimate set of tools" (hoping some get the reference) won't make up for a lack of skill/knowledge/experience.

Some of us grew up having to field repair equipment with the random tools in the toolbox of the tractor, so you learn how to make what you have work.

Marc, I think some of my eccentric behavior when it comes to tools is based on my growing up on a diary farm. When we had to do "field" repairs, many times it was with a pair of slip joint pliers (aka Channelocks) and an adjustable wrench (aka Crescent Wrench), which both served as a means to remove or tighten fasteners as well as a hammer. 😄 Watching my father work was something to be seen. He could do most any repair with the above mentioned tools and not give a seconds thought about it. He viewed his tools as simply that; tools to get a job done and nothing more. His tools were abused well beyond what any tool should be, but they simply served as a means to an end.

Although I have no regrets pertaining to my childhood or my upbringing, as I began to develop a love of all things mechanical and the use of tools around the age of 12 or so, I started repairing lawnmowers and snowblowers in my dad's workshop. That is when I fully began to appreciate having good quality tools and I swore when I got to a certain point in my life that I would buy the best tools I could afford. This was long before I really knew what my career path would be, but I knew I loved having a wrench in my hand and fixing things.

Fast forward to when my wife and I were dating and I went to my friend's brother's house as he needed a part for his Bronco. I got to see firsthand what a well-equipped workshop looked like behind an **** mechanic's home. I remember telling my wife, who was my girlfriend at the time, that I knew exactly what I wanted behind our home. All she heard was "our home" out of that entire conversation. :bounce: This guy turned out to be one of my mentors who are partially responsible to me being who I am today.
 
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zmotorsports

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Excellent post and I thank you for your thoughts.

As I have been wandering around and pondering your original question, I had a couple of thoughts come to mind.

First, I appreciate the fact that you thought to ask this question of me. I hope that means that I have in some way expressed my feelings towards this industry in a positive manner. That has always been my goal and in some small way I have wanted to be able to give back to this industry that has been so good to me in the way of helping others all while continuing to improve my own skillset. I am in no way perfect in my abilities but I try to improve daily.

Which almost instantaneously led me to my next thought; there are times when I question my abilities and wonder whether I made the correct career choice as there have been a few instances when I've done something rather stupid or overlooked something which has led me to be so disappointed in myself.

I know I am hard on myself, but the fact is we are usually our own worst critics, but I do wonder if others that are in this field feel the same way? I recently overlooked a relatively simple thing that I am still beating myself up for months later and question whether or not I deserve to be where I am in my career. I even made the comment to my wife that I have this wonderful shop to work in and all these tools and when I do something stupid I wonder if I even deserve to hold a wrench or call myself a mechanic.
 
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zmotorsports

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@CGarage giving some additional thought to your original question pertaining to what is seen in the industry about doing work with bare minimum vs. the mechanics who have all the tools but lack the ability, I only have experience with my small world, the shop I manage at work and maybe a handful of commercial shops that I know either the owners or a few of the mechanics.

If Sterling, aka @SilverJimmy, wouldn't mind chiming in I think he could give us another point of view as it may be similar or quite different than mine.

Just thought I'd ask for another perspective as he's probably been through hundreds of shops and could provide a much broader snapshot of the landscape.
 
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