niget2002
Well-known member
Proof of concept done. One sticks and one is crooked. It's because I used pine for the center supports and the frame is slightly twisted. I'll rebuild it with plywood and it should work better.
What did you do "IN" your garage today?
- Thread starter mayhemman
- Start date
larry4406
Well-known member
Was driveway.
Determined that slow leak on tire was inside sidewall about 1.25” from tread. Ugh.
Put it back on car without plug attempt.
Dealer could not find leak last week.
Tire still tons of miles left.
Past 3+ months been inflating each weekend.
No leak at 25 psi (low point it stops). I had to inflate to 60 psi to find it.
I think I’m back to weekly maintenance.
Determined that slow leak on tire was inside sidewall about 1.25” from tread. Ugh.
Put it back on car without plug attempt.
Dealer could not find leak last week.
Tire still tons of miles left.
Past 3+ months been inflating each weekend.
No leak at 25 psi (low point it stops). I had to inflate to 60 psi to find it.
I think I’m back to weekly maintenance.
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M.Brane
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Walked in, and out grabbing/returning various tools. Retrieved beverages from the fridge.
KwikFab
Well-known member
She's finished, at least for the welding and cutting part.
It'll be done once casters arrive and the leather is chosen.
It'll be done once casters arrive and the leather is chosen.
SMOKEYBEAR
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2016
- Messages
- 459
No pictures, but I have this complete. Waiting for the EGT probe to arrive Monday, but the broken bolt has been removed and repaired. Sheesh it tested me though , tools and mostly patience. It's been drilled and tapped to a larger size without a helicoil or timesert, I'm satisfied with the repair.You ask, I deliver. Different project but here I am...
Coolant, EGR cooler, EGT probe and associated work on the 6.7 Ford. 6mx1.0 titanium bolts in cast iron manifold, thanks Ford. Nothing I can't sort out, but I would of had it done last night otherwise. It's a well known challenge, there's 8 total, these two in the manifold being the worst, At least it's only 1 of them. I'll be back on it after work today.
All the "faults" of the Milwaukee M12 90 degree drill make it the perfect tool for the job. Drilled without removing the upper intake, small enough to fit in the tight space and under powered just right to drill slow and not break drill bits. That titanium bolt is a MFER to drill
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Not a very technical project, but it helps get full usefulness from cutting disks. I made an arbor with a 1/4" shank that will hold standard cutting disks with a 7/8" hole.
Earlier today, I was using an angle grinder to cut some 1/8" steel for a project. I needed to make 8 linear feet of cut and ended up going through three 4.5" x .065" thick cutting disks. Given the configuration of the head on the angle grinder, the cutting disks need to be replaced when they worn to about 2.875" diameter. It bothers me to have to toss out a cutting disks when there's still some life left in it.
Not sure if all angle grinders ship with threaded adapters, but the Hercules angle grinders come with internally treaded adapters. The adapters have a standard angle grinder 5/8-11 external threading and a 10mm (either 1.5 or 1.25TPI) internal thread.
I found a 10mm x 1.25 bolt, cut the head off then lathe turned the shank down to 1/4" diameter. I installed the adapter onto the threads using some Locktite. Using a spare angle grinder backing plate and top nut now I have an arbor for my small pneumatic grinders that can use up the partially worn cutting disks.
Earlier today, I was using an angle grinder to cut some 1/8" steel for a project. I needed to make 8 linear feet of cut and ended up going through three 4.5" x .065" thick cutting disks. Given the configuration of the head on the angle grinder, the cutting disks need to be replaced when they worn to about 2.875" diameter. It bothers me to have to toss out a cutting disks when there's still some life left in it.
Not sure if all angle grinders ship with threaded adapters, but the Hercules angle grinders come with internally treaded adapters. The adapters have a standard angle grinder 5/8-11 external threading and a 10mm (either 1.5 or 1.25TPI) internal thread.
I found a 10mm x 1.25 bolt, cut the head off then lathe turned the shank down to 1/4" diameter. I installed the adapter onto the threads using some Locktite. Using a spare angle grinder backing plate and top nut now I have an arbor for my small pneumatic grinders that can use up the partially worn cutting disks.
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KwikFab
Well-known member
Oxyfuel or plasma cutter would make super quick work of cutting down that steel.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Easier, yes, cost effective, nope. The liquid version is about 8x more expensive than the crystals round here. So it's easier to fill the sock and drop it in the skimmer.
I have a plasma (Razorweld Cut45) installed on a Langmuir Crossfire table. Its a nuisance to disconnect the torch & cable from the table and control wiring.
KwikFab
Well-known member
Small world - I'm a moderator on the FB group.
Why not run a hand torch to the plasma cutter?
It was even more difficult disconnecting a PrimeWeld plasma cutter from a table because you have to run raw for THC voltage. This means running wires directly to the lugs in the machine, but I had modified the plasma cutter to run a plug to said raw voltage.
Some old pictures -
That meant I could easily disconnect the VIM and pull it off via the velcro.
Worked perfect for trailer fixes and cutting down big sheets.
I say this in case you also went raw since Razorweld has built-in ports for torch on/off as well as divided voltage.
Stupid convenient having multiple torches!
Skyman
Well-known member
Was driveway.
Determined that slow leak on tire was inside sidewall about 1.25” from tread. Ugh.
Put it back on car without plug attempt.
Dealer could not find leak last week.
Tire still tons of miles left.
Past 3+ months been inflating each weekend.
No leak at 25 psi (low point it stops). I had to inflate to 60 psi to find it.
I think I’m back to weekly maintenance.
Might try an inner tube?
JEFFREYWisconsin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2021
- Messages
- 380
my brother had a place on elm street, when he met his now wife, my friends and I disliked her and called it the nightmare on elm street.
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
@PhantomEB Post up an image of what you are needing, also link below to canned Auxbeam labels, readily available.
auxbeam.com
160 Universal Stickers for AS Series Switch Panel
160 Universal Stickers, works with AS-400, AS-600, AS-800, AS-R40, AS-R60, AS-R80
auxbeam.com
larry4406
Well-known member
How well would that work with a tubeless tire and TPM sensor? I am thinking it won't.
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kaymccampbell
Well-known member
You could try sticking a plug in it to slow down the leak, or putting a patch inside. I've plugged and patched plenty of sidewalls on otherwise perfectly good tires. They both seem to have had about the same efficacy. Plugs are easier.
Wrench97
Well-known member
Yep the plug won't do any more damage then is already done.
larry4406
Well-known member
Yeah my brother was encouraging me to plug it.
I don't have the ability to dismount tire for an inside patch.
There is a FORD recall on this trim item...
I took my wife's 2017 Explorer in to the dealer because the RH side a-pillar plastic trim became partially disconnected...Flapping in the wind...
I got tired of waiting on the FORD recall...
I've been waiting for over a year to get a call from the dealer that the part is available for the install...
The OEM supplier for this part has vacated the scene... FORD is saying they are trying to establish a new source...
Amazon to the rescue... Part was a perfect fit
Took me about 1/2 hour to do the repair...
I took my wife's 2017 Explorer in to the dealer because the RH side a-pillar plastic trim became partially disconnected...Flapping in the wind...
I got tired of waiting on the FORD recall...
I've been waiting for over a year to get a call from the dealer that the part is available for the install...
The OEM supplier for this part has vacated the scene... FORD is saying they are trying to establish a new source...
Amazon to the rescue... Part was a perfect fit
Took me about 1/2 hour to do the repair...
Skyman
Well-known member
Tubeless tire would be no problem, but I think TMPS likely would. That hadn't occurred to me, as none of my fleet are so equipped.
LeeG
Well-known member
Sometimes multiple problems can solve each other.
By moving stuff off the shelves in back, I was able to move about 15 Systainers of tools onto the shelves, I think I freed up about 15 sq ft of floor space, which doesn't sound like much, but the shed is only 10x12 with only 7x10 of floor space (shelves on the sides), its a significant chunk. I am expecting to take back about 2 pallets worth of stuff once I get it all gathered.
What did I move? All my pipe threading tools, including a tri-stand vise, all of my corded tools (I still have all my original Milwaukee tools in steel boxes), antique tools that belonged to my Dad and Grandfather that I don't have room to display, portable air compressor, concrete tools, demolition hammers, and that sort of stuff. It gives me practice for when I have to move the shop. I can tell already that it is going to be more work than I thought.
The summer temps here didn't help any, but by starting at 3am, I was able to get most of the shed work done before it was too unbearable.
Lee
- I have a nice little single axle utility trailer that was my Dad's, and I've done quite a bit of work to it, but I just don't use it much anymore, and it costs about $75/mo to store it.
- We are planning on moving back to Iowa in the next few years, and it's going to be a pain to move all my stuff.
- I am also totally out of room. I have a bunch of tools I picked up for specific jobs, and now just take up space, but I don't want to get rid of them as I expect to need them after the move.
- I was unable to make my normal trip back to Iowa this summer.
By moving stuff off the shelves in back, I was able to move about 15 Systainers of tools onto the shelves, I think I freed up about 15 sq ft of floor space, which doesn't sound like much, but the shed is only 10x12 with only 7x10 of floor space (shelves on the sides), its a significant chunk. I am expecting to take back about 2 pallets worth of stuff once I get it all gathered.
What did I move? All my pipe threading tools, including a tri-stand vise, all of my corded tools (I still have all my original Milwaukee tools in steel boxes), antique tools that belonged to my Dad and Grandfather that I don't have room to display, portable air compressor, concrete tools, demolition hammers, and that sort of stuff. It gives me practice for when I have to move the shop. I can tell already that it is going to be more work than I thought.
The summer temps here didn't help any, but by starting at 3am, I was able to get most of the shed work done before it was too unbearable.
Lee
PhantomEB
Well-known member
Wait on throttle cable and bracke.
clean clean clean. See if some glasses show up…..
clean clean clean. See if some glasses show up…..
rd65
Well-known member
https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/1/219-ford-naa.html A nice website, lots of information.
This is what it is! an NAA?
I have used a fair bit of that and I concur.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Back to the never-ending Battle of the Rinnais.
The drain tube of the primary heat exchanger of one of our Rinnia C199s sprung a leak a week ago. I was able to salvage parts from anothe one, retired for other problems. Friday, the second one sprung a leak--this time, from deep inside the primary HX.
I had cut the drain tube off the first (it isn't necessary and the newer C199s don't even have it) and attempted to solder up the leak, which was where the tube was soldered/brazed into another tube. It turned out to be one of those whack-a-mole jobs, where the leak just kept moving. So today, I went with Plan B:
Two layers of Cold Weld, flowed in with a heat gun. That should get it. I don't think it had any other leaks.
Now to be sure it's the only leak:
Full line pressure. The water is from where one of the hose/hose clamp junctions is leaking--not the HX itself.
I'll leave it under pressure while I go for lunch. If it doesn't leak, I have my work cut out for the afternoon. We have a big brew day scheduled tomorrow so I need all three Rinnais up and cooking.
The drain tube of the primary heat exchanger of one of our Rinnia C199s sprung a leak a week ago. I was able to salvage parts from anothe one, retired for other problems. Friday, the second one sprung a leak--this time, from deep inside the primary HX.
I had cut the drain tube off the first (it isn't necessary and the newer C199s don't even have it) and attempted to solder up the leak, which was where the tube was soldered/brazed into another tube. It turned out to be one of those whack-a-mole jobs, where the leak just kept moving. So today, I went with Plan B:
Two layers of Cold Weld, flowed in with a heat gun. That should get it. I don't think it had any other leaks.
Now to be sure it's the only leak:
Full line pressure. The water is from where one of the hose/hose clamp junctions is leaking--not the HX itself.
I'll leave it under pressure while I go for lunch. If it doesn't leak, I have my work cut out for the afternoon. We have a big brew day scheduled tomorrow so I need all three Rinnais up and cooking.
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I have plugged sidewalls with some success, and a few failures. I don't know that I would do it on a freeway vehicle but I wouldn't hesitate on my trash hauler.
larry4406
Well-known member
It’s my daily driver.
60-80 miles each day via highway and residential roads.
Once it drops to 25 psi or so it just stays there.
So I think it’s going to be weekend pump up and keep running it till it wears out vs attempt a sketchy repair.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
FixaFlat?
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Slime.
rcktpwrd
Well-known member
Shuffled the wife's truck and wagon around and did an oil change on the wagon. Emptied the oil catch pan into the empty jug that the oil came in. Have a bunch of jugs of used oil in the garage that we need to take to the auto parts store to recycle.
niget2002
Well-known member
Cut a piece of wood and practiced hand routing shapes to make a little organizer for my nightstand charging devices.
#builtnotbought
Would probably be worth $40 on Etsy if I used the word "rustic" in the description.
#builtnotbought
Would probably be worth $40 on Etsy if I used the word "rustic" in the description.
larry4406
Well-known member
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Yup.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
I got back from lunch at noon. No leakage from the refurb/modded HX, so here we go.
Pulled all the internals out of the Rinnai (again) and started stripping down to the HX:
It looks like there's been some horrible crime against a water heater--parts are scattered all over the shop. The HX on the Workmate is the one that I just patched.
Now to get it back together, installed, tested and hopefully fill the 1,200 gallon hot water tank to get it up to temp for tomorrow....
As soon as I finish this smoke.
Pulled all the internals out of the Rinnai (again) and started stripping down to the HX:
It looks like there's been some horrible crime against a water heater--parts are scattered all over the shop. The HX on the Workmate is the one that I just patched.
Now to get it back together, installed, tested and hopefully fill the 1,200 gallon hot water tank to get it up to temp for tomorrow....
As soon as I finish this smoke.
KwikFab
Well-known member
Cut a piece of wood and practiced hand routing shapes to make a little organizer for my nightstand charging devices.
#builtnotbought
Would probably be worth $40 on Etsy if I used the word "rustic" in the description.
Drag it on the ground to put some scratches in it and you can sell it for double and calling it "vintage"
Cut a piece of wood and practiced hand routing shapes to make a little organizer for my nightstand charging devices.
#builtnotbought
Would probably be worth $40 on Etsy if I used the word "rustic" in the description.
Put it outside, hose it down once in a while, and leave it to dry. That adds "Patina". Another doubling of the price.
KwikFab
Well-known member
At this point we're practically investors, entitled to a 33% share of this item's exponentially rising value
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Y'know how it is--just cruisin' along, top down, some good music on... and then you hit that pothole you didn't even see?
It's not supposed to look like that. The groove is where an o-ring lives, and while the o-ring technically seals against the part that isn't missing, it just ain't gonna make anything better.
Fortunately, I was able to recover before I even lost lane control:
I cleaned the inside with a 3/8" Mill Rose brush, put a well-greased o-ring in the groove and used some more Cold Weld epoxy. After the epoxy had partially set, I trimmed it back so it doesn't add to turbulence or restriction. I think.
Back to cruisin'
Everything back together but the exhaust unifold, which goes on the back.
It's now all back together, looking and working like a Rinnai should and heating tomorrow's brew water.
Some heroes of the battle:
I needed a long--1 foot or so--screwdriver that fit JIS screws well enough to stick them waaay back into the case. The Crafty was the best fit of anything I had--including a couple of JIS screwdrivers--and, with a little dab of pipe dope on the tip, performed honorably. The Ullman o-ring hook is the best design I've used.
Beer thirty!
It's not supposed to look like that. The groove is where an o-ring lives, and while the o-ring technically seals against the part that isn't missing, it just ain't gonna make anything better.
Fortunately, I was able to recover before I even lost lane control:
I cleaned the inside with a 3/8" Mill Rose brush, put a well-greased o-ring in the groove and used some more Cold Weld epoxy. After the epoxy had partially set, I trimmed it back so it doesn't add to turbulence or restriction. I think.
Back to cruisin'
Everything back together but the exhaust unifold, which goes on the back.
It's now all back together, looking and working like a Rinnai should and heating tomorrow's brew water.
Some heroes of the battle:
I needed a long--1 foot or so--screwdriver that fit JIS screws well enough to stick them waaay back into the case. The Crafty was the best fit of anything I had--including a couple of JIS screwdrivers--and, with a little dab of pipe dope on the tip, performed honorably. The Ullman o-ring hook is the best design I've used.
Beer thirty!
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Let the dogs and cats pee on it, and the sun beat on it for a few weeks and we'll be taking Vintage Patina.
Or maybe mulch.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
I used to save my old coffee grounds and boil wood and bone that I wanted to age with them. Produces the "buried for eons" look.