Suggestions for wireless control of small pump?

[Innovate1]

Looking for hardware to turn on a circ pump for about a minute when a button is pressed. Three wireless push buttons near sinks with any of them activating the pump. Anyone done something like this that can recommend hardware? Doing this for a friend so a simple solution that doesn't involve programming is needed. Maybe a Relay in a Box RIBD01BDC can do the delays so would need to add the wireless push buttons.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

what size (in HP) pump?

 

[AA/FC]

How cheap are you looking to go?

There are a BUNCH of cheap generic wireless remote control devices on Amazon that you can use to control just about anything.

For example:

https://www.amazon.com/QIACHIP-Universal-Wireless-Transmitter-Momentary/dp/B083GRC5P7/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Wire this device to YOUR relays and you instantly have wireless control.

Look around on Amazon, I'm sure you can find a cheap solution that would work for you.

I have used devices like this in the past with good success. I added wireless capabilities to an electric boat lift. (along with some other hardware, of course)

 

[CoogarXR]

Menards has a wireless outlet with a remote for 8.87, rated at 15A

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/electrical-cords-surge-protectors/outlet-adapters/performax-trade-2-outlet-indoor-and-outdoor-wireless-remote-control-outlet/ppiwd5409/p-1642874299977418-c-6483.htm

I've used it and recommended it before. It's pretty nifty. My friend uses it in his shop for his dust collector. I've used mine around the shop for various things. The last thing I used it for was to trigger an air horn in my crawl space to scare a ground hog out, lol.

 

[Innovate1]

Pump is 1/25 Hp, 0.84A. It's true Amazon has lots of remotes - I didn't see what I wanted the first time but tried again and saw more suitable ones. This looks good.
https://www.amazon.com/WOODGUILIN-Control-Wireless-Industrial-Security/dp/B09QGGZBMW/

The relay in a box would make the high voltage to code. A plastic box for the receiver would let the signal in but still enclose things.

 

[dave*99]

Pump is 1/25 Hp, 0.84A. It's true Amazon has lots of remotes - I didn't see what I wanted the first time but tried again and saw more suitable ones. This looks good.
https://www.amazon.com/WOODGUILIN-Control-Wireless-Industrial-Security/dp/B09QGGZBMW/

The relay in a box would make the high voltage to code. A plastic box for the receiver would let the signal in but still enclose things.

Do you need a relay driving a relay? The unit you reference can do this: "10A, suitable for most of the household appliances, load voltage 1-220v"
Perhaps use a plug and receptacle arrangement in your plastic junction box. Skip the RIBD01BDC.
Is this a recirculation pump for domestic hot water?
Is it stand alone or part of a water heater or other system?

 

[Sumboodie]

Menards has a wireless outlet with a remote for 8.87, rated at 15A

https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/electrical-cords-surge-protectors/outlet-adapters/performax-trade-2-outlet-indoor-and-outdoor-wireless-remote-control-outlet/ppiwd5409/p-1642874299977418-c-6483.htm

I've used it and recommended it before. It's pretty nifty. My friend uses it in his shop for his dust collector. I've used mine around the shop for various things. The last thing I used it for was to trigger an air horn in my crawl space to scare a ground hog out, lol.

I have a wifi version I use for a heated floor mat in front of my place (melts the snow).
I set it to run an hour a day.

 

[larry4406]

Hot water recirc system?

I am planning for an occupancy sensor and aquastat on the return leg. Both need to be enabled for pump to run.
- Return temp hot, no one in room, no run
- Return temp cold, no one in room, no run
- Return temp cold, someone in room, runs till temp satisfied then pump drops out
- Return temp hot, someone in room, no run

 

[The Cobbler]

I would use X-10 home automation, partly because I have it . and I think it was a fairly reliable, inexpensive and easy system. I still use it for holiday lighting etc .

 

[LopezBart]

Hot water recirc system?

I am planning for an occupancy sensor and aquastat on the return leg. Both need to be enabled for pump to run.
- Return temp hot, no one in room, no run
- Return temp cold, no one in room, no run
- Return temp cold, someone in room, runs till temp satisfied then pump drops out
- Return temp hot, someone in room, no run

Consider a flow switch on the hot water; user turns on hot water momentarily and pump runs until temp is satisfied.

 

[dave*99]

My tankless water heater has built in recirculation pump. It can be programmed by time, or use its learning mode, or a WiFi interface can be added. Push buttons can be wired in too.
External pumps can have smart controls too.
There are other solutions - this has some info,

Smart Recirculation Control - Hot Water Pump Controllers

Smart Recirculation Control delivers on-demand hot water the smart way with our family of smartphone hot water recirculating pump controllers.

smartrecirculationcontrol.com

I have no experience with it.

 

[larry4406]

Consider a flow switch on the hot water; user turns on hot water momentarily and pump runs until temp is satisfied.

I want a zero operator intervention system.

Occupancy sensor knows I’m in the bathroom, kitchen, hall bath, etc.

 

[LopezBart]

I want a zero operator intervention system.

Occupancy sensor knows I’m in the bathroom, kitchen, hall bath, etc.

Understood; the question is how often you're in one of those rooms and don't turn on the hot water.

 

[dcg9381]

Understood; the question is how often you're in one of those rooms and don't turn on the hot water.

Yea, that's the problem. Don't want it heating and circulating water when you're using the toilet.

I put in a circulation loop. 3 bathrooms have "doorbell" buttons which activate the circulation pump on the water heater. But it is "one touch" intervention, not zero touch. I'm told you can do this wirelessly also.. depends on your water heater, mine already had some support for this type of setup. For it's about saving wasted water (we're on water collection) so the less we have to run water down the drain, the better.

 

[larry4406]

Understood; the question is how often you're in one of those rooms and don't turn on the hot water.

If I am not in the room, there is no demand.

If I am in the room AND the return loop temp is low, then the pump runs till the return temp is satisfied and I am blind to this. I use the sink and wow there is hot water.

Yea, that's the problem. Don't want it heating and circulating water when you're using the toilet.

I put in a circulation loop. 3 bathrooms have "doorbell" buttons which activate the circulation pump on the water heater. But it is "one touch" intervention, not zero touch. I'm told you can do this wirelessly also.. depends on your water heater, mine already had some support for this type of setup. For it's about saving wasted water (we're on water collection) so the less we have to run water down the drain, the better.

Yea but when your done using the toilet you still need to wash your hands presumably with hot water.

 

[LopezBart]

Yea but when your done using the toilet you still need to wash your hands presumably with hot water.

Ah. I've only used hot water when cleaning up after changing kid diapers; likely for psychological reasons at first.

Interesting reading: https://healthcare-in-europe.com/en/news/hand-washing-in-hot-or-cold-water.html

-

 

[Innovate1]

Consider a flow switch on the hot water; user turns on hot water momentarily and pump runs until temp is satisfied.

The heater is an on demand style so it already has a flow sensor. I might be able to tap into it. But they are quite happy with a push button solution. And the water heater is used for things close to the heater that don't need heating the long loop. I wasn't able to find a quick source of the RIB device so got a similar device from Grainger:
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Single-Function-Encapsulated-6A858
and this for wireless push buttons (two since I need 3 buttons):
https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Wirel...nsmitters/dp/B071WM1YGS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
and a 12V wall wart.

 

[Innovate1]

Turns out the Grainger part has a switch closure input but it wasn't isolated from the power connections. I suspected that but was hoping it was isolated. Once I had the unit I was able to determine it wasn't isolated so picked up the more common and easier to find in stock locally relay in a box model RIBU1C without the delay to put between the Grainger part and the Amazon parts.

It works but would have been easier if I was able to get the RIB with the delay. Was just visiting some friends for a few days so needed the parts quickly.