Maxjax, replace hydraulic hoses?

[Joe From NY]

Has anyone with the Maxjax lift replaced the hoses with longer ones? I want to mount the power unit on the wall, inside the garage and have the hoses be long enough to reach the columns. What pressure rating should i get, and what size ends should i order to have my quick-connects fit the threads? What is an online source for reasonable prices for hydraulic hose?
Thanks all...

 

[PowerDubs]

Funny you posted this.

I just took my pump off the cart and mounted it to my wall as well.

I looked at replacing the hoses so I could get a longer one to go up and over the ceiling to the far side and a shorter hose from the close side to the power unit right next to it so I don't have to have it all coiled up.

I decided to live with the hose across the floor and coiled on the wall once I realized it would cost me several hundred dollars to do what I wanted.

 

[Junkman]

Just buy a second set of hoses from Maxjax and have them supply you with a set of quick disconnects. That has to be the least expensive way to do this and know that it is all correct.

 

[Joe From NY]

Funny you posted this.

I just took my pump off the cart and mounted it to my wall as well.

I looked at replacing the hoses so I could get a longer one to go up and over the ceiling to the far side and a shorter hose from the close side to the power unit right next to it so I don't have to have it all coiled up.

I decided to live with the hose across the floor and coiled on the wall once I realized it would cost me several hundred dollars to do what I wanted.

Damn, those hoses cost that much?

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

Hydraulic hose components are not cheap - I keep a fair amount of stuff at work and many times I'm amazed at the numbers when I'm writing up a bill for a hose.......
Cheapest stuff we sell is at least 5 bucks / foot plus the fittings can be anywhere from 5 or 6 bucks on up.......
Now, that said, you may still want to take a close look at the existing hose and get all the info off of it and then call a hydraulics supplier in your area and find out what they charge -- so much per foot, assembly fee, etc. Match the end fittings if you can identify them and get prices on them as well. It may be a more reasonable cost than buying a hose from the equipment manufacturer.

 

[Joe From NY]

Hydraulic hose components are not cheap - I keep a fair amount of stuff at work and many times I'm amazed at the numbers when I'm writing up a bill for a hose.......
Cheapest stuff we sell is at least 5 bucks / foot plus the fittings can be anywhere from 5 or 6 bucks on up.......
Now, that said, you may still want to take a close look at the existing hose and get all the info off of it and then call a hydraulics supplier in your area and find out what they charge -- so much per foot, assembly fee, etc. Match the end fittings if you can identify them and get prices on them as well. It may be a more reasonable cost than buying a hose from the equipment manufacturer.

My hoses just say "Hydraulic Hose - working pressure 5700 Psi", every 10 inches, no other markings. cheap inferior china product, non-standard markings.

 

[Joe From NY]

Anyone of you guys in farm country have a reasonably priced online source of hydraulic hose?

 

[tatra]

you could always harvest your connections off the original hoses and have them referreled on to new longer hoses.............maybe upgrade to a more robust hose while your at it..........or if looking for a permanant application. use pipe rate for the application and have short connecting hosses where needed and save the origianl hosses for portable applications.

 

[larry_g]

Anyone of you guys in farm country have a reasonably priced online source of hydraulic hose?

I just take the old hose to the local parts house and have it made up. It looks to me that in your setup you could take the two long hose you have and connect them together to reach the far side and then have a shorter one made up for the short side. They do make unions for hyd fittings. You may also get steel piping for long runs that would be a bit cheaper than hosing the whole thing. In farm country when equipment is down we don't have the time to order stuff online.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[PowerDubs]

I'm surprised you say yours came with cheapo hoses. Mine came with pretty nice ones.

I guess they looked for ways to cut costs after the first batch.

Here is my ghetto wall mount-

 

[Joe From NY]

This is the mysterious generic wording on my hoses. I thought industry standard was to have more info on the hoses. I don't know.

 

[Joe From NY]

I'm surprised you say yours came with cheapo hoses. Mine came with pretty nice ones.

I guess they looked for ways to cut costs after the first batch.

Here is my ghetto wall mount-

Thanks alot for the reply. That is exactly what I want to do with mine. I found yours online here.

I see the working pressure rating of yours is 3000 PSI, and my cheapo no-name unbranded hose is 5700 PSI.
Now i will send an email to Danmar and see why they changed hose suppliers and pressure ratings, and if there was no technical reason other than price, i know what specs to look for online.

 

[Joe From NY]

I was looking at this one at Northern, if Danmar says the specs are good, i might be able to connect two together for the length i need.

 

[Dolfan]

PowerDubs, I like you wall mounted power unit, I may consider trying to so the same thing in the future.

 

[Joe From NY]

i was just on the phone with the tech line at Dannmar. They are looking into the specs for the hoses now, and will call me back, but one thing he said was that the two hoses should stay the same length

 

[Joe From NY]

For anyone interested in getting Maxjax replacement hoses, here are the spec.s that Dannmar tech support emailed me today:

3/8" HYDRAULIC HOSE 3,000PSI 3,800mm LG
3/8-18 NPT FEMALE QUICK DISCONNECT COUPLING
MALE NPTF PIPE - RIGID

Does anybody know what "3,800mm LG " means?

 

[tyrell2004]

I'm guessing that is the length...3,000mm LonG.........

 

[Joe From NY]

I'm guessing that is the length...3,000mm LonG.........

i believe you are correct, 3800 mm works out to 12' 5", which is just about the measured length of my Maxjax lines.
thanks

 

[Joe From NY]

I posted my final setup here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1179174&postcount=183

 

[mitchtr25068]

So I bought two of the 10-foot hoses that joe found at northern tool, as well as two 3/8 quick release couplings. Since I have never worked with hydraulic hoses before, my dumb question is if there is anything special I put on the threads where I am attaching the new couplings or just use the same stuff you use for standard plumbing I.e. Teflon tape. Thanks!

 

[outdoorspace]

This is the mysterious generic wording on my hoses. I thought industry standard was to have more info on the hoses. I don't know.

I just had one of these hoses burst on me. I do not have 100% conclusive evidence as to why it failed, but I theorize that when handling it or running it over on occasion in the really cold weather, the vinyl sheathing cracked and allowed road salts to infiltrate the steel braids inside and rusted them out. The result was one side of the hoist suddenly dropping and the car tilting over. I was just on my way to install the safety bars when that happened. Luckily, I identified the problem right away and dived for the release lever to get the entire car down as quickly as possible. No damage to anything or anyone was done, LUCKILY. Had I had the safety bar installed on the side with the good hose, the car would be in a world of hurt.

It could have been a piece of welding schlage, too that killed the outer sheathing. I am going to mount the power unit on the wall and run hoses down to it from the ceiling. I've been wanting to do this anyway, but I finally have a really good reason to do it now.

 

[alberto]

I just had one of these hoses burst on me. I do not have 100% conclusive evidence as to why it failed, but I theorize that when handling it or running it over on occasion in the really cold weather, the vinyl sheathing cracked and allowed road salts to infiltrate the steel braids inside and rusted them out. The result was one side of the hoist suddenly dropping and the car tilting over. I was just on my way to install the safety bars when that happened. Luckily, I identified the problem right away and dived for the release lever to get the entire car down as quickly as possible. No damage to anything or anyone was done, LUCKILY. Had I had the safety bar installed on the side with the good hose, the car would be in a world of hurt.

It could have been a piece of welding schlage, too that killed the outer sheathing. I am going to mount the power unit on the wall and run hoses down to it from the ceiling. I've been wanting to do this anyway, but I finally have a really good reason to do it now.

Yikes.

 

[Joe From NY]

I just had one of these hoses burst on me. I do not have 100% conclusive evidence as to why it failed, but I theorize that when handling it or running it over on occasion in the really cold weather, the vinyl sheathing cracked and allowed road salts to infiltrate the steel braids inside and rusted them out. The result was one side of the hoist suddenly dropping and the car tilting over. I was just on my way to install the safety bars when that happened. Luckily, I identified the problem right away and dived for the release lever to get the entire car down as quickly as possible. No damage to anything or anyone was done, LUCKILY. Had I had the safety bar installed on the side with the good hose, the car would be in a world of hurt.



It could have been a piece of welding schlage, too that killed the outer sheathing. I am going to mount the power unit on the wall and run hoses down to it from the ceiling. I've been wanting to do this anyway, but I finally have a really good reason to do it now.

I have my power unit on the wall in the garage, then I bought extension hoses I had made up at my local hydraulic hose place. I run the hoses up to about 6 feet, then over to the garage door opening. (I mounted my lift just outside my garage). I put one bracket I made from an old bed frame at each side, the right and left corners of the garage door to carry the hoses close to the lift. Then I don't trip over them or run over them with my tool cart. It was getting to be a pain in the ***. But the custom length hoses I had made, with good fittings cost around $400 for the set.


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[outdoorspace]

Yes, that's what I have in mind. They are going to go from the posts up to the ceiling and over to where the pump is mounted.

So... just be careful with these hoses. I am confident that with a rubber sheathing and/or stainless braids, this would have never been a problem.

I do remember reading something in the MaxJax manual about its operating temperature being something like over 40 degrees fahrenheit. I used it in much colder temperatures than that. It may have to do with the flexibility of the vinyl hoses.

 

[Firebrick43]

So I bought two of the 10-foot hoses that joe found at northern tool, as well as two 3/8 quick release couplings. Since I have never worked with hydraulic hoses before, my dumb question is if there is anything special I put on the threads where I am attaching the new couplings or just use the same stuff you use for standard plumbing I.e. Teflon tape. Thanks!

Teflon tape is not recommended for hydraulics. It can and does cause blockages of orfices and jambing. I use locktite 577 and 567. Mostly the later as they keep it in stock better but for hydraulics 577 is better. There are other oil compatible dopes as well.

Also guys, if you are mounting the lift and pump permanently, why not hardlines?

 

[outdoorspace]

I agree that teflon tape shouldn't be used on hydraulics, but I recall the MaxJax installation manual saying to use it.

The question about hard lines--where the heck do I buy them? I've never bought hydraulic hose or pipe before. I do have the 37* hydraulic flaring tool dies. I'd use them, but I need 20 feet of hard line, which to get such a length without a bunch of joints in it.... ehh, I thought about that. With hose, I can change my mind on how I install it later, too.

Anyway, I tore more sheathing off of my burst hydraulic hose. One thing is for sure--the epicenters of any corrosion on the braids inside is where the hose would get run over by a tire. Now, running it over with various vehicles is not what damaged it. The resulting corrosion is what did it in.

I inspected the hose where it would get run over prior to any more cutting, and there was zero visual evidence of the vinyl sheathing getting compromised. Even during one idiotic move of mine early in the hoist's life, I pinched the hose between the hoist arm and the bottom of a car. That was dumb. There's zero visual braid damage or corrosion in that area though.

Something happened--I suspect that it was microscopic cracks that result in the sheathing, likely during cold weather, and as the road salts flowed down the garage floor, where the hose was, it got dammed up and was allowed to really penetrate into the hose. Once inside, the chlorides had no where to go, so any additional moisture would just be a catalyst to the chemical reaction and then BOOM the hose pops.

Part of the reason I left the hose there? The darn things don't flex in cold weather. If I were to repeatedly disconnect and move it during cold weather, I cannot help but consider that the hose would have met the same demise. I also recall in the installation or owners manual that the working temperature of this thing was something like 40+ degrees fahrenheit. The exact number eludes me, but even if it was 30 degrees, that may be avoidable in southern Cali-phony-ya, but in much of the rest of the country, good luck with that.

As far as the anchors in the concrete go--minimal corrosion exist on them. They didn't get the chloride baths that the hose did, but they seem to be perfectly fine so far.

 

[brownbagg]

just buy hoses from grainger and add to your hoses not replace

 

[rburke65]

Hydraulic hoses are expensive. I just replaced 4 hoses on my front loader....4 at..?..34” long....almost $200.

 

[Firebrick43]

I agree that teflon tape shouldn't be used on hydraulics, but I recall the MaxJax installation manual saying to use it.

The question about hard lines--where the heck do I buy them? I've never bought hydraulic hose or pipe before. I do have the 37* hydraulic flaring tool dies. I'd use them, but I need 20 feet of hard line, which to get such a length without a bunch of joints in it.... ehh, I thought about that. With hose, I can change my mind on how I install it later, too.

Anyway, I tore more sheathing off of my burst hydraulic hose. One thing is for sure--the epicenters of any corrosion on the braids inside is where the hose would get run over by a tire. Now, running it over with various vehicles is not what damaged it. The resulting corrosion is what did it in.

I inspected the hose where it would get run over prior to any more cutting, and there was zero visual evidence of the vinyl sheathing getting compromised. Even during one idiotic move of mine early in the hoist's life, I pinched the hose between the hoist arm and the bottom of a car. That was dumb. There's zero visual braid damage or corrosion in that area though.

Something happened--I suspect that it was microscopic cracks that result in the sheathing, likely during cold weather, and as the road salts flowed down the garage floor, where the hose was, it got dammed up and was allowed to really penetrate into the hose. Once inside, the chlorides had no where to go, so any additional moisture would just be a catalyst to the chemical reaction and then BOOM the hose pops.

Part of the reason I left the hose there? The darn things don't flex in cold weather. If I were to repeatedly disconnect and move it during cold weather, I cannot help but consider that the hose would have met the same demise. I also recall in the installation or owners manual that the working temperature of this thing was something like 40+ degrees fahrenheit. The exact number eludes me, but even if it was 30 degrees, that may be avoidable in southern Cali-phony-ya, but in much of the rest of the country, good luck with that.

As far as the anchors in the concrete go--minimal corrosion exist on them. They didn't get the chloride baths that the hose did, but they seem to be perfectly fine so far.

Many decent size towns around here in Indiana (60'000 plus) have a hydraulics shop, even one town under 10000. Let your fingers do the walking in the phone book.

Tubing typically come in 10' stocks so only 1 joint needed

 

[outdoorspace]

I am going to re-visit the hard line idea.

I cannot just add to the hose that blew up on me. In addition, I will have 9 feet of rubber hose "hanging" from the ceiling directly above the hoist posts. The reason for that is that when I take the hoist down, I can easily swing the flex hose out of the way and hang it on a hook in the ceiling or similar, or at least that is my plan. The vinyl coated hose that came with this hoist doesn't flex worth a didly squat or at all when temperatures are near or below freezing.

And... well... as far as cost goes...

Last night, I decided to poke away at www.discounthydraulichose.com. I can get two 32' 3/8" 100R2AT hoses made for $137 plus shipping from what I can tell. All the fittings are attached and ready to just connect right up.

 

[outdoorspace]

I took the plunge and bought 32' x 2 of flexible hose from discounthydraulichose.com Cost? $211 including shipping. 5,585 PSI working pressure. 90* swivel fittings on one end, etc.

The 100R2AT hose should have worked fine and was at a substantially lower cost, but I upgraded for piece of mind and for a tighter bend radius and the guy who answered the phone there sold me on it claiming it had better workability in cold weather. Resists sun, salt water, heat, cold, etc.

I find it interesting that they mentioned salt water. The new setup will never see road salts, but I would expect such a hose to be impervious to salt water penetration. One of my old hoses fell victim to salt water.