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Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT A new lease on life: 30x40 schoolhouse conversion

Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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jollygreengiant

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One thing I would love to add to your thinking as who knows how often some of us may attend to certain machines, but one thing I got added to my arsenal is 12v solar panels added to sheds, vehicles and trailers…..keeps the battery excited with somewhat of a trickle charger so never come to a dead battery.

I have two on my enclosed trailer that always faces south, went camping in the trees (only used interior lights sparsely but charged up hearing aid batteries as well my cellphone and nevr went under 11.9. Gonna be adding in two more panels for a battery tender to a future ATV.

I should really get one of those for the tractor. I have one now in one of the front windows that keeps the battery for the Avalanche alive. I thought about getting one for the lawnmower too but I've just been putting the abive mentioned solar charger or my battery charger on it every month or two in the winter.

Controversial opinion...but you're better off avoiding the 8N's. They were popular in the states as they were cost effective, but I've never met someone who is familiar with mutiple models/brands in that size range who has positive things to say about an 8N...better then no tractor....yes....but thats about it.

I don't think it's that controversial. They are definitely better than no tractor, and they were dead nuts reliable, but that's all I can think of on the positive side.

Your not here for the thinking part just the comedy relief and the ER trip updates so we all know what not to due and how not to try!

Just kidding xtremek your input is way more insightful than mine most of the time of courseLOL!

I would think there be a plenty of the old ford's around for a good price.
But it may be there just alot in my area I guess

There's not many old tractors around here in general, and of the ones that are it's hard to find one in decent shape for under $10k. This area is a very prosperous farming area, especially over the last ten years, so a lot of farms have sold off their older equipment a long time ago.
 
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jollygreengiant

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An update on the tractor saga:

I finally figured out how to make my compression tester work and had a chance to test it.

The injectors on this engine are held in by a clamp style system, which you can see in the pic. I was trying to come up with a way to make my compression tester work, when I noticed that directly opposite the threaded hole for the injector clamps, is another threaded hole. I didn't notice them at first because they weren't being used so they had filled up with gunk. I cleaned them out, chased the threads, and was able to make my compression tester work.

1000018191.jpg

It's a bit janky, but it worked.

1000018192.jpg

Cylinder #3 is good


1000018189.jpg

....well that's not good. Cylinder #2

1000018193.jpg

No better on cylinder #1:

1000018194.jpg

So I've confirmed my initial suspicion that this tractor needs an overhaul. Now I need to decide what I do next. I have two options, either fix it myself or get a different tractor. Fixing it myself would certainly be cheapest but would involve a lot of time that I don't really have to spare. Getting a different tractor (not new, would be the same vintage as this one) would be the quickest solution but involved the most $$$.

I'm still debating which way to go, but I need to decide quickly. The great lakes are already warmer than last year, and the really warm lake temperatures last year is what fuelled the massive amount of snow that we got. So I need some way to move snow, something more than my little walk behind blower.
 

XJSuperman

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As much as I hate to say it, if you don't have the time, I'd get it to a shop. No sense in opening it up and then life smacking you with something else to take your focus before winter hits. This year is flying by: its mid-August already and feels like it'll be November next week. By the time you find a "new" tractor yours could be done in the shop and ready to go. You're already familiar with this one, so unless there's features you want/need that would be different with another machine, I vote you stick it out with this one.
Just 2cents from a guy who doesn't have kiddos to keep him busy but still isn't getting all his projects done before winter.
 

dmittz

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Just a quick thought here, did you do a wet and dry compression test? To determine if its the rings that are worn or if its a valve sealing issue?

I only ask because if the compreasion is ok, after you squirt a bit of oil in the cylinder, then ya you need to do a full overhaul...BUT if you get lucky and the compression is the same 'wet' and dry then it points to it being a valve sealing issue and just taking the head off and having some machine work done is much less costly/time consuming than a full engine overhaul.
 

lmg

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An update on the tractor saga:

I finally figured out how to make my compression tester work and had a chance to test it.

The injectors on this engine are held in by a clamp style system, which you can see in the pic. I was trying to come up with a way to make my compression tester work, when I noticed that directly opposite the threaded hole for the injector clamps, is another threaded hole. I didn't notice them at first because they weren't being used so they had filled up with gunk. I cleaned them out, chased the threads, and was able to make my compression tester work.

1000018191.jpg

It's a bit janky, but it worked.

1000018192.jpg

Cylinder #3 is good


1000018189.jpg

....well that's not good. Cylinder #2

1000018193.jpg

No better on cylinder #1:

1000018194.jpg

So I've confirmed my initial suspicion that this tractor needs an overhaul. Now I need to decide what I do next. I have two options, either fix it myself or get a different tractor. Fixing it myself would certainly be cheapest but would involve a lot of time that I don't really have to spare. Getting a different tractor (not new, would be the same vintage as this one) would be the quickest solution but involved the most $$$.

I'm still debating which way to go, but I need to decide quickly. The great lakes are already warmer than last year, and the really warm lake temperatures last year is what fuelled the massive amount of snow that we got. So I need some way to move snow, something more than my little walk behind blower.
In my experience, when you have essentially the same pressure in adjacent cylinders, a bad head gasket is likely.
 
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jollygreengiant

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As much as I hate to say it, if you don't have the time, I'd get it to a shop. No sense in opening it up and then life smacking you with something else to take your focus before winter hits. This year is flying by: its mid-August already and feels like it'll be November next week. By the time you find a "new" tractor yours could be done in the shop and ready to go. You're already familiar with this one, so unless there's features you want/need that would be different with another machine, I vote you stick it out with this one.
Just 2cents from a guy who doesn't have kiddos to keep him busy but still isn't getting all his projects done before winter.

That's a big reservation I have about doing the work myself. Knowing my luck, I could get into it and find other big issues or other things come along that need my time, and then there's snow in the ground in November that needs moved and my tractor is in pieces.

I have thought about having someone else do the work too. Maybe I'll make a couple calls and see what that would cost.

Just a quick thought here, did you do a wet and dry compression test? To determine if its the rings that are worn or if its a valve sealing issue?

I only ask because if the compreasion is ok, after you squirt a bit of oil in the cylinder, then ya you need to do a full overhaul...BUT if you get lucky and the compression is the same 'wet' and dry then it points to it being a valve sealing issue and just taking the head off and having some machine work done is much less costly/time consuming than a full engine overhaul.

This was only a dry test. Would valve sealing issues only be a problem on a cold start or all the time? This engine needs the coolant heater on it right now to get it started, but once it's started it runs fine (except for smoke under load) and restarts fine. That's why I was thinking it was the rings.

In my experience, when you have essentially the same pressure in adjacent cylinders, a bad head gasket is likely.

I was thinking the same thing.

Would that not cause it to run rough in other areas besides hard starting? As it is now, it needs the coolant heater to start in the middle of summer. But once it's running it runs fine, and restarts fine.
 

dmittz

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I'd retry doing a wet compression test, that way you know what you working with and can make the mostninformed decision on how to proceed. And Yes ro my knowledge valve seeing issues are worse when the engine is cold.
 
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jollygreengiant

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I'd retry doing a wet compression test, that way you know what you working with and can make the mostninformed decision on how to proceed. And Yes ro my knowledge valve seeing issues are worse when the engine is cold.

I'll try that. I just did the compression tests the other day and things are pretty well as I left them so doing another test won't take much. What does a guy to use to make it a wet test, engine oil? How much?

Super simple engines, you can do an in frame.

Martin

Have you done one before? I was talking with a buddy about this and he said these engines have sleeves that would need to come out too. Pretty sure I could manage replacing rings but I'm not sure how I'd manage to get sleeves replaced.
 

Spareparts

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Price it out at a shop and get it done, getting another tractor is a **** shoot, never know
what you might get. And you get a warranty.
 

dmittz

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To do a wet compression test just put a bit of engine oil in each cylinder then immedietly do a compression test on that cylinder.

In theory the engine oil will help the rings seal better for a short period of time so if your bad cylinders suddenly have much better compression after adding some oil then ya, the rings are worn out. If on the other hand the compression numbers are very similar to the dry compression numbers then it might point more to a valve sealing issue.
 
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jollygreengiant

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I'm glad you guys suggested some other issues, and in particular doing a wet compression test. Just finished doing that, and the compression was the same (within 25 psi) on the bad two cylinders dry and wet.

So going by those results I should be looking into either a valve sealing issue or a blown head gasket. Either way that's easier than a full blown rebuild and something I can do myself.
 

xtremek

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Being 2 cylinders are down, I'd bet you breakfast for you and your family at Timmy's that it's a blown head gasket. If not, I think I'd look for a similar model tractor so you have spare parts.
 

BORING HOP YARD

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if you could use the same port that you used for the compression test and assemble the fittings to adapt a leak down tester that will tell you if it's the cylinders, valves or head gasket were bad.
Piston at TDC with 100lbs of air pressure going in and the amount of air pressure holding. If you have valve issues you hear a his coming out the intake or the exhaust, if you have a head gasket issue you could hear it from the radiator or coolant bubbling. Cylinders would let the air go by the rings and go into the oil pan and out the oil filler as a hiss. With the amount of air you are losing in the 2 dead cylinders you will be able to hear a hiss. Leak down tester are cheap.
Good luck on your quest.
 
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jollygreengiant

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We finally decided to tackle the firewood shed project. While not the most pressing project we did need to get it done. With the wind we get we can't keep a tarp on the woodpile so it is starting to breakdown. And we already had most of the material here already, so getting this project done would get it out of the way.

This is where it's going:

20250628_113140.jpg

Once I get the tractor fired up it still works pretty good. But it's a PITA having to plug the coolant heater in to start it when the humidex is over 90 F.

20250628_123236.jpg

Once the gravel was out of the way I could dig the post holes. This is where my carefully laid plans got blown to pieces.

20250629_152112.jpg

I had lined everything up for the weekend prior to and the actual July long weekend. The in-laws where coming down so they could watch the little ones/provide help, I wasn't working, and I had the rental company drop off a post hole digger and cement mixer. The thinking was if I could get the posts set the weekend before, I could spend the long weekend building the shed and have it done and off the list. It all sounded so good, just knock out this project quick and move on to something else....

...I'm sure you can guess where this is going...

Well would you believe that the night before I was to dig the holes, after being quite dry for a month, we got a 1.5" rain in 30 minutes. At that point I had the equipment already here, so I went about digging the holes the next morning hoping that the ground would have soaked up most of that rain since it was so dry. Alas, my hopes were dashed.

20250629_152123.jpg

After a few days the water did drop and I was able to get the posts set.

20250701_165132.jpg

After that life, work, other projects, and the weather got in the way. Didn't make much more progress on it until the middle of August.

20250817_162421.jpg
 
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jollygreengiant

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I decided to build it in the same style as the shop so it would blend in. That included pine board and batten siding, with the same stain as the shop.

20250824_142609.jpg

And the finished project! I still need to install a couple pieces of bracing and level the gravel inside of it before I can start stacking firewood, but those are dependent on a couple other things that need to happen first.

20250906_165250.jpg

20250906_165909.jpg
 
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jollygreengiant

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Looks good.

Sounds like a lot of my projects. Looks easy to knock it quickly, then something happens, multiplies and now it 3 weeks later.

How far is the walk to the wood stove? Or do you stage a “ healthy “ amount closer to that area?

Don't actually have the woodstove in the house yet, that's on the shortlist of projects so hopefully in the 2-3 year timeframe. probably will stage a bit inside somewhere closer.

The firepit that we have now is just out back behind the house so not too far.

Nicely done. How many cord do you think you'll put in it?

If I did my figuring right each bay should easily get 10 face cord in it, so 20+ if I fill it right up.

I don't have anywhere near that amount right now, probably only enough to take up part of the first bay. We'll use the rest of it for storage for now until we get closer to burning firewood in the house. I wanted a lot of dry storage so that I can have enough properly seasoned wood to burn, as from what I'm told the newer gasification stoves need really well seasoned wood.
 
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jollygreengiant

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Soooo.....the tractor saga....it may have taken a different route...and ended up a thousand miles from where I thought we were going lol.

20250923_111600.jpg

I brought this home this week. It's not what we had planned on doing, as I stated earlier I was planning to fix the IH and get it working, but some things happened that changed priorities and constraints. I had thought that someday in the future we would get a smaller tractor as it would be more useful around our property. I've posted before about the limitations of the old IH, and while this one is much smaller, with a smaller lift height and capacity, I think it's increased overall usefulness will more than make up for it.

Overall I'm pretty excited to have it and start using it! I've put three hours on it already (though almost 2 of those were just driving it home) and so far I really like it. I had originally been looking at the 1 series tractors, and actually was looking pretty hard at the Massey equivalents, when I came across this one. It's a 2019 so not new but is in pretty decent condition, and has a new loader and bucket. I picked up a set of pallet forks for it, and I have a blower for the three point hitch on order.

So yeah, while not the path that we planned on it should really help move things along and get some things off the to-do list.

One plus to the new tractor, is it takes up a lot less space in the shop:
20250923_200700.jpg
 

Prospecter

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Soooo.....the tractor saga....it may have taken a different route...and ended up a thousand miles from where I thought we were going lol.

20250923_111600.jpg

I brought this home this week. It's not what we had planned on doing, as I stated earlier I was planning to fix the IH and get it working, but some things happened that changed priorities and constraints. I had thought that someday in the future we would get a smaller tractor as it would be more useful around our property. I've posted before about the limitations of the old IH, and while this one is much smaller, with a smaller lift height and capacity, I think it's increased overall usefulness will more than make up for it.

Overall I'm pretty excited to have it and start using it! I've put three hours on it already (though almost 2 of those were just driving it home) and so far I really like it. I had originally been looking at the 1 series tractors, and actually was looking pretty hard at the Massey equivalents, when I came across this one. It's a 2019 so not new but is in pretty decent condition, and has a new loader and bucket. I picked up a set of pallet forks for it, and I have a blower for the three point hitch on order.

So yeah, while not the path that we planned on it should really help move things along and get some things off the to-do list.

One plus to the new tractor, is it takes up a lot less space in the shop:
20250923_200700.jpg
I think that is the perfect size! Small enough that attachments are a little less crazy $$$, but still enough ground clearance. They don't take up as much room in the shop either, as you noted. Pallet forks are awesome! You'll need to start looking for a tiller, and a snow blade!
 

jblnut

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Soooo.....the tractor saga....it may have taken a different route...and ended up a thousand miles from where I thought we were going lol.

20250923_111600.jpg

I brought this home this week. It's not what we had planned on doing, as I stated earlier I was planning to fix the IH and get it working, but some things happened that changed priorities and constraints. I had thought that someday in the future we would get a smaller tractor as it would be more useful around our property. I've posted before about the limitations of the old IH, and while this one is much smaller, with a smaller lift height and capacity, I think it's increased overall usefulness will more than make up for it.

Overall I'm pretty excited to have it and start using it! I've put three hours on it already (though almost 2 of those were just driving it home) and so far I really like it. I had originally been looking at the 1 series tractors, and actually was looking pretty hard at the Massey equivalents, when I came across this one. It's a 2019 so not new but is in pretty decent condition, and has a new loader and bucket. I picked up a set of pallet forks for it, and I have a blower for the three point hitch on order.

So yeah, while not the path that we planned on it should really help move things along and get some things off the to-do list.

One plus to the new tractor, is it takes up a lot less space in the shop:
20250923_200700.jpg
I've been quietly following along and am glad to see you jumped onto the Green bandwagon lol. I have an 884 that I use almost daily and love it for what it is but the 2038r I have is so much handier in almost every way. The kiddos can run it and do productive stuff with it and that's worth more than the tractor cost.

How many hours are on it ?? It looks really sharp !!
 
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jollygreengiant

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Thanks everyone!

I think that is the perfect size! Small enough that attachments are a little less crazy $$$, but still enough ground clearance. They don't take up as much room in the shop either, as you noted. Pallet forks are awesome! You'll need to start looking for a tiller, and a snow blade!

I still go back and forth on the tiller. I already have a nice walk behind one, and 48" tillers for tractors are not cheap. Maybe in the future we'll look at that, it certainly would be faster.

I've actually got a rear mount snowblower on order for it. A blade would be nice, maybe a future add on too. But I think the order of things is going to be a box blade come next spring, and if everything goes according to plan (lol yeah right) a cab enclosure for next winter. I was really wanting one for this winter but I don't think that is going to happen.

Someone has been spending too much time following @jblnut Out on Quaker Rd. :ROFLMAO: ;)
Looks like that'll work perfectly for ya! Did the IH get traded in then, or are you gonna sell if off before winter?

I have been over there a bit too much. I find myself getting chainsaw envy looking through his thread. :lol_hitti

Still got the IH. The plan is to park it for the winter and replace the head gasket next summer. That's a job that I can do, and selling a running tractor will be a lot easier than one that doesn't.

I've been quietly following along and am glad to see you jumped onto the Green bandwagon lol. I have an 884 that I use almost daily and love it for what it is but the 2038r I have is so much handier in almost every way. The kiddos can run it and do productive stuff with it and that's worth more than the tractor cost.

How many hours are on it ?? It looks really sharp !!

I love that old IH but it's really to big and not well suited for what I'm doing. And as you said anyone can drive it. I wouldn't let anyone else run the IH as the brakes don't work, and I didn't want something to happen to someone else.

It's actually got just over 1,000 hours on it. I was hesitant about that at first but from what I found you can routinely go 3x that amount without major issues. Which if that holds true this should last me a long time. I don't know for sure, but I don't think I put more than 50 hours a year on the IH.

MFWD?

Martin

Yep. Which I found out it really needs if you are pushing gravel.
 

jblnut

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MFWD?

Martin
I think most all JD compacts have been MFWD since the days of them being Yanmars. I’ve been wrong before though …..

I have been over there a bit too much. I find myself getting chainsaw envy looking through his thread. :lol_hitti
I haven’t gotten any new saws lately lol. Heck it’s been a month or two since I ran a saw :headshake

It's actually got just over 1,000 hours on it. I was hesitant about that at first but from what I found you can routinely go 3x that amount without major issues. Which if that holds true this should last me a long time. I don't know for sure, but I don't think I put more than 50 hours a year on the IH.
I know multiple people with 1 and 3 series Deeres with over 3,000hrs and they’re still going strong. I moved a 3032r on a dairy that was in my way the other day and it had 7800hrs on it. Yours has lots of life left in it !!
 

jblnut

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Don't actually have the woodstove in the house yet, that's on the shortlist of projects so hopefully in the 2-3 year timeframe. probably will stage a bit inside somewhere closer.
What are you leaning towards for a stove at this point ? Something inside I’d imagine. A boiler style or a forced air style?

If I did my figuring right each bay should easily get 10 face cord in it, so 20+ if I fill it right up.
My first thought was “no way that’ll hold 20 cord !!” Then I saw “face cord”. We ain’t got no time to mess with face cords lol. I’d feel silly telling people I burn 75 face cords a year. :lol_hitti


I don't have anywhere near that amount right now, probably only enough to take up part of the first bay. We'll use the rest of it for storage for now until we get closer to burning firewood in the house. I wanted a lot of dry storage so that I can have enough properly seasoned wood to burn, as from what I'm told the newer gasification stoves need really well seasoned wood.
I went with a conventional outdoor wood boiler for the same thought as you. I may not always have properly seasoned wood. Any stove will benefit from well seasoned wood, a gasser will really benefit from it but it’ll definitely burn not as seasoned stuff. They will burn it but don’t like green wood as they get dirty a lot faster what with all the extra moisture more sticky creosote comes out. I also wanted to ability to turn “non wood” things into hot water and a gasser stove isn’t happy about most of that. Think cardboard, paper, grain dryer cleanings and grain screener cleanings. I get a few weeks of heat off of cleanings and it’s nice to be able to use them instead of tossing them.

Nice looking shed !!!
 
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jollygreengiant

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The 2 series will be a great tractor. Much more capability than a 1 series.

That was the main justification in buying this one. I had been primarily looking at the 1 series with about 300-500 hours on them. When I came across this one with more hours, but a similar price I reasoned that the extra capability would be worth the higher hours.

Good luck with the new tractor. Don’t forget your yellow warning lights.

Yes, I need to get that setup for those dark winter mornings when I'll be blowing snow. I also need to get some some rear worklights on it. It has front and side fender mounted lights, but no rear lights. This is the R model, so supposed to be Deere's higher end trim level, yet they make you pay more for an upgrade to get rear work lights?? WTF Deere.

I think the tractor was a smart move. Less work on your plate. And hopefully more reliable in the long run. AND as noted, much smaller. Means more room to work on your Dad's truck.

Thanks Kirk. It's certainly already helped the workload. I've got a few jobs done already that wouldn't have happened with the old tractor as I'd still be working on the headgasket fix.

What are you leaning towards for a stove at this point ? Something inside I’d imagine. A boiler style or a forced air style?

Just a forced air style. This won't be the primary source of heat, we have a newer propane furnace for that. But we will use it quite a bit in the winter I think. Propane is cheaper than oil, but it's still enough $$$.

My first thought was “no way that’ll hold 20 cord !!” Then I saw “face cord”. We ain’t got no time to mess with face cords lol. I’d feel silly telling people I burn 75 face cords a year. :lol_hitti

lol, yeah for what you do using face cords doesn't make much sense. I'm going to be burning on a much smaller scale than you are.

I went with a conventional outdoor wood boiler for the same thought as you. I may not always have properly seasoned wood. Any stove will benefit from well seasoned wood, a gasser will really benefit from it but it’ll definitely burn not as seasoned stuff. They will burn it but don’t like green wood as they get dirty a lot faster what with all the extra moisture more sticky creosote comes out. I also wanted to ability to turn “non wood” things into hot water and a gasser stove isn’t happy about most of that. Think cardboard, paper, grain dryer cleanings and grain screener cleanings. I get a few weeks of heat off of cleanings and it’s nice to be able to use them instead of tossing them.

Nice looking shed !!!

Thanks!

I looked at an outdoor boiler a few years ago but all the ones I looked at were just way too expensive. IIRC we were looking at a minimum of $30k just for the boiler. So probably north of $40k once you get the insulated lines and everything else. That just doesn't make sense for a small house and a 30x40 shop. I figured that a propane furnace with a indoor wood stove would be the most economical way to go for the house. I'm still not sure which way to go with the shop. I've thought about a woodstove out there too, but that doesn't really work when I'm only out there now and then, and it takes up a lot of floor space. It's likely going to be either propane or a mini split, but haven't decided on that yet.
 

Cane

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Maybe you already know this but thought I would throw it out there.

I was doing some research on a ih 574 today and ran across a thread that made me think of your issue with your old tractor. Alot of people were saying they were hard starting under 50° and needed plugged in or ether to start. One of the posters said he never had a issue even in the winter by using the cold start position on the kill cable. He said to pull the kill cable out half way and this was the cold start position.

I saw your compression check and agree it probably needs a head gasket but didn't know if you knew about the cold start procedure.

I use a friend's 2025 at the lake now and then. He doesn't have the tires loaded or any weights on it. I've had it on two or three wheels more times than I can count. I was pulling water logged dock floats out of the lake last month. Could get them part way up on shore with the loader then had to turn around and pull them the rest of the way out. If I end up with one I will definitely weight it and shim the pump. They are pretty handy.
 

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In the Middle of MN
Just a forced air style. This won't be the primary source of heat, we have a newer propane furnace for that. But we will use it quite a bit in the winter I think. Propane is cheaper than oil, but it's still enough $$$.
Burning wood is so comforting in the house. It saves a few bucks and gives you something to do and gives a purpose to all the junk wood out there.

lol, yeah for what you do using face cords doesn't make much sense. I'm going to be burning on a much smaller scale than you are.
When I was first looking at stoves I was talking with a good buddy about his Crown Royal Stove and he said he went through 45 cord a year to heat his house and shop. After a few more questions I realized he was talking face cords and not full cords. Good grief that’d be a lot lol

Thanks!

I looked at an outdoor boiler a few years ago but all the ones I looked at were just way too expensive. IIRC we were looking at a minimum of $30k just for the boiler. So probably north of $40k once you get the insulated lines and everything else. That just doesn't make sense for a small house and a 30x40 shop. I figured that a propane furnace with a indoor wood stove would be the most economical way to go for the house. I'm still not sure which way to go with the shop. I've thought about a woodstove out there too, but that doesn't really work when I'm only out there now and then, and it takes up a lot of floor space. It's likely going to be either propane or a mini split, but haven't decided on that yet.
I can’t believe an OWB would be that expensive. I paid $13k’ish for mine and am into the entire thing with a concrete pad, lines, plumbing and all the stuff hooked up for less than $30k. For us it’ll be paid back in less than 7yrs and made use of a waste product on the farm so it made sense.

One of my neighbors heats his shop with a regular forced air wood stove that he put in a lean to next to the shop with the duct blowing inside. He uses the lean as a wood shed and keeps the mess and smoke out there. I think he has a radiant tube heater in there as well and uses the wood stove as primary heat with the LP as a backup.
 
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