Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT A new lease on life: 30x40 schoolhouse conversion

[jollygreengiant]

You need to post your idea of rethreading your shear bolts in the repurposed thread.

The repurposing thread

I don't believe I've seen a thread like this so I thought I'd start one. Show off your repurposed items. Prefer "useful" things versus scrap turned into "art". I'll start with my plasma cart made from an old pressure washer cart. Welded some shaped round stock around various places to hold the...

www.garagejournal.com

Just a thought, but my neighbor had a fire this week in his garage with significant damage. Do you have any kind of alarm system in the schoolhouse?

I forgot about that thread. There's a couple things I could post there. Probably could post them here too lol.

No I don't, and I really need to get one. I have multiple extinguishers and always come out and check things over 30 minutes after anything involving sparks or hot metal. But I need to get an alarm system. Is there anything that would work in an unheated building?

I also need to get a heat sensor for the attached garage. I've never bought heat sensors before; is there brands that are good, or to stay away from?

 

[captain14]

I’m not sure about specific sensors or detector especially for your two buildings.

We’ve had several members documented their rebuilds after fires.

Fireguy50 has been sharing his information On his thread.

FIRE Destroyed Garage & New Rebuild FINALLY!

I've been waiting a LOONG time to make this post, 16 months. July 22nd 2020 my garage (man castle) burned down, YouTube video from the home security camera system: Because of Pandemic lock down orders, Canadians stopped sending lumbar to the US, the lumber cost impacted by that decision...

www.garagejournal.com

bluebomber had a fire in his detached shop and garage and a neighbor heard the alarm during the night. It’s in part of his thread.

Blue Bomber's Garages

You won't regret installing the heater. I finally put one in a few years ago and love it.

www.garagejournal.com

@driftpin has a fire inspection and protection background. He may have some ideas for your situation.

 

[dmittz]

I forgot about that thread. There's a couple things I could post there. Probably could post them here too lol.

No I don't, and I really need to get one. I have multiple extinguishers and always come out and check things over 30 minutes after anything involving sparks or hot metal. But I need to get an alarm system. Is there anything that would work in an unheated building?

I also need to get a heat sensor for the attached garage. I've never bought heat sensors before; is there brands that are good, or to stay away from?

My dad, has a heat sensor or something of that nature in his workshop. It works great no false alarms even if you do some welding or grinding in the shop. I'll have to try and see what brand ot is next time I'm over there.

 

[jollygreengiant]

My dad, has a heat sensor or something of that nature in his workshop. It works great no false alarms even if you do some welding or grinding in the shop. I'll have to try and see what brand ot is next time I'm over there.

That would be great if you could. As I mentioned this is my first foray into heat sensors, and I really don't want to inadvertently pick a bad one.

 

[jollygreengiant]

So with winter hanging on later than normal it meant that all the usual spring jobs and projects hadn't really started yet. This gave me a chance to work on some organizational projects in the shop. There's just getting to be too much stuff everywhere so I've been trying to remedy that a bit.

Our old mailbox took one too many hits from the snowplow so it was replaced with a new one. I repurposed the old one for storing longer items like driveway markers, wooden tool handles, etc all in one spot. It may look a little redneck but it works well and was pretty cheap.



I've also decided to try a different approach to my tool storage. Before I found that I was spending a lot of time and steps to retrieve tools from all their different storage spots. I'm going to try a bit of a tool wall of my more commonly used tools to consolidate things and make my shop time more efficient. But this project also needs to be done without a huge time commitment and without a big expense, because those are spoken for for other projects. So far I'm hitting both of those goals, largely thanks to my stash of hoarded wood lol.



I made some holders for my tape measures and my rolls of tape. As it turns out I have a lot more tapes than I thought I did; I never really noticed when they were stored in multiple places.



This turned out pretty well and I'm quite happy with it so far. It's certainly not like the fancy ones you see on youtube but I thought it turned out decent for scrap wood built with a mitre saw, a palm sander, and a brad nailer.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Nothing wrong with $free.50 and redneck!

Tool organization looks good!

 

[burger]

I have more half used rolls of tape than I should admit. They take up half of a vertical file drawer. The thing is, you can't get rid of them. At some point, you're going to need that duct tape for a heater project, or you'll need that extra window seal for a new window. By the way, currently balls deep in replacing the roof and siding on my house right now. In the middle of replacing 9 windows. Gorilla Tape's window tape is the best of it sort. It's like a 6" wide piece of electrical tape. Super flexible, sticks to anything. Highly recommend.

 

[jollygreengiant]

I have more half used rolls of tape than I should admit. They take up half of a vertical file drawer. The thing is, you can't get rid of them. At some point, you're going to need that duct tape for a heater project, or you'll need that extra window seal for a new window. By the way, currently balls deep in replacing the roof and siding on my house right now. In the middle of replacing 9 windows. Gorilla Tape's window tape is the best of it sort. It's like a 6" wide piece of electrical tape. Super flexible, sticks to anything. Highly recommend.

I never even knew Gorilla made a window flashing tape. I know when I did the windows on the shop I tried out 3 or 4 different tapes and found 3M's flashing tape to be about the best. That stuff sounds similar to the Gorilla tape, it's super flexible and sticks to anything.

 

[sublime68charger]

You have been busy congrats on the new family member.

since xtremek has us messed up with each other I thought I would stop on over here and chime in!

Though your work bench Pic looks alot like mine!

 

[xtremek]

Since you've got your shop so organized, you want to come over and help organize mine?

 

[jollygreengiant]

Since you've got your shop so organized, you want to come over and help organize mine?

Organized, lol. You should see the rest of the shop that I don't show in pictures.

 

[madison069]

Organized, lol. You should see the rest of the shop that I don't show in pictures.

That's why I don't feel so bad about my garage. It's what I call semi-organized. I tend to just post the bad part of the garage just to make others feel better!

 

[sublime68charger]

Since you've got your shop so organized, you want to come over and help organize mine?

you have all the time you need to get your own place set you how you want. You leave a guy with young kids and never enough time alone and let him enjoy the young ones time is gonna fly by from him Now!

all in good fun!

 

[burger]

I never even knew Gorilla made a window flashing tape. I know when I did the windows on the shop I tried out 3 or 4 different tapes and found 3M's flashing tape to be about the best. That stuff sounds similar to the Gorilla tape, it's super flexible and sticks to anything.

I want to amend that the superior window tape is actually Frog Tape and not Gorilla Tape. Sorry that I got my creatures confused! Sticks well and very flexible. The crew liked it better than whatever else I could get at Lowes and what thier supplier offered.

 

[dmittz]

great idea with the wall organizer. I've just done something similar for my frequently used yard tools.

 

[jollygreengiant]

That's why I don't feel so bad about my garage. It's what I call semi-organized. I tend to just post the bad part of the garage just to make others feel better!

Semi-organized, I'm going to steal that one!

In my defence, I know where 98% of things are. So it's organized for me, kinda anyways lol.

you have all the time you need to get your own place set you how you want. You leave a guy with young kids and never enough time alone and let him enjoy the young ones time is gonna fly by from him Now!

all in good fun!

My word you're not kidding about the time part. I thought I'd be so much further along on the to-do list of projects here but it's moving at a snails pace.

I want to amend that the superior window tape is actually Frog Tape and not Gorilla Tape. Sorry that I got my creatures confused! Sticks well and very flexible. The crew liked it better than whatever else I could get at Lowes and what thier supplier offered.

I've never heard of frog tape. Who makes that?

great idea with the wall organizer. I've just done something similar for my frequently used yard tools.

I seen that recently. Your shop is really looking good!

 

[jollygreengiant]

And this is why I have a hard time hiring contractors. Came home from work one day to a waterfall feature in our new mudroom addition.





So my nice new finger jointed pine ceiling and drywall now have gaping holes in them.

I think what happened was we had a bit of an ice storm, followed by rain. I think ice on the roof allowed water to back up and get into the roof where the garage meets the mudroom.



This spot leaked before we had sent final payment to the contractor. We had withheld payment until it was fixed, and he assured us it was. Well apparently spray foam isn't 100% waterproof.

I've since gone up with a bucket of roofing tar and gone over every possible joint and seam where water could back up and in. Which is really what he should have done the first time. Fingers crossed this works, because the only other way is to remove the steel roofing and take it back to the plywood. I don't really want to go that route if I don't have to, mainly because I don't like working on roofs but also because the roof steel is full size sheets, not shingle style.

And I know some of you will say that the original contractor should fix it, and you're probably right. But I'm not going to do that. I've heard more about this contractor since we hired him and ghosting people after being paid seems to be common. There's also other issues involved that I have to consider.

 

[madison069]

Might have to put a heat tape up there to prevent ice from forming there again. I have a spot that does the same thing and heat tape fixed it.

 

[sublime68charger]

That ***** about having the water leak!

just after putting in new stuff makes it 2x as bad also!

 

[captain14]

Just another project you didn’t need.

Your list was long enough before this happened.

 

[xtremek]

What brand of tin roof is that? It looks really weird compared to everything I've ever seen before.

 

[dmittz]

Sorry to hear about the mud room. I feel the same way in regards to trades/contractors its really hard to find good ones that take pride in their work many are just out for a quick pay check and do poor work. That often lead me to do things myself but its hard to find the time!
I did find a few good trades guys along the way and they are great, but I only found a few.

Hope the damage isn't to extensive or expensive to fix.

 

[burger]

I can be a control freak and I hate having other people work on my house. My area has a large Amish population. I like working with them. They are very honest and hard working. Prices I’ve paid have been less than conventional contractors. Do you have Amish in your area?

 

[jollygreengiant]

Might have to put a heat tape up there to prevent ice from forming there again. I have a spot that does the same thing and heat tape fixed it.

Never thought of that, may have to consider it. Didn't have a problem all winter with snow and ice, it was just when we had an ice/snow storm on a bare roof.

That ***** about having the water leak!

just after putting in new stuff makes it 2x as bad also!

Yeah. Really thought it was fixed when the contractor left the first time, hence why we did the drywall and ceiling.

Just another project you didn’t need.

Your list was long enough before this happened.

You can say that again. A long list with now slower progress hasn't been good for me. Going backwards on this was really not good.

What brand of tin roof is that? It looks really weird compared to everything I've ever seen before.

I honestly couldn't tell you. The contractor ordered it, and there's no labeling on the sheets that I can see.

Sorry to hear about the mud room. I feel the same way in regards to trades/contractors its really hard to find good ones that take pride in their work many are just out for a quick pay check and do poor work. That often lead me to do things myself but its hard to find the time!
I did find a few good trades guys along the way and they are great, but I only found a few.

Hope the damage isn't to extensive or expensive to fix.

I think I was able to get it opened enough and got enough air moving through it that it dried out pretty well. I should be able to just patch the holes I made and not tear out the rest of the ceiling where the water ran.

I can be a control freak and I hate having other people work on my house. My area has a large Amish population. I like working with them. They are very honest and hard working. Prices I’ve paid have been less than conventional contractors. Do you have Amish in your area?

Not really no. There's a big community about an hour east of here but you don't see them this way very often.

 

[jollygreengiant]

Time to throw up some spring pics.

Spent a lot of time with this thing. The first heavy snowfall we got came on top of unfrozen ground so the county snowplow relocated half of the gravel from the shoulder to the grass. Last year I think I put maybe 2 tanks worth of fuel through this thing and that was all it took. This year it was 7



Got the first plants in the garden. My little helper loves to dig holes, so I got her to dig some holes for me.



Took the tractor out for what may be it's last time. More on that below.



Does anyone know when the DOT adopted standardized over dimension load signs? I'm wondering how old this sign is that I got from my Grandfather. I'm thinking the 1970's but not sure.



Another casualty of an unheated shop. I pulled out this new oil filter to put on the wife's car and found this.



Now for more on the tractor. Ever since about December or so the tractor has been very hard to start, well a lot harder than normal anyways. I've been slowly working away at it when I have time, trying to check off all the possible issues that could be causing my hard to start problem. I think I'm now at the point where I've ruled out everything else, and the only option left is internal engine problems. Specifically I think it has bad rings since it will start up if I have the coolant heater plugged in for a few hours first.

So now I'm trying to figure out what to do with it. I'm leaning towards seeing if I could get a mobile tractor mechanic to take a look at it and possibly do the work, but there's two things that are holding me up there. The first is that yes, I could do the work myself and likely save a bunch of money. But that is a big time commitment to do a job that I haven't done before, and that will push other jobs down the list. Except at the top of that list is another big project in the house that needs done before too much longer or it is going to become a real problem. The second is, if this machine does indeed need engine work, I have no way to properly break in an engine after a rebuild. All this tractor does is loader work and blow snow in the winter; I have nothing that can put a sustained load on the engine for an extended amount of time. So having said that, is it even worth it for me to do engine work on this tractor if I can't break it in properly?? I'd love to hear your feedback on this one. I've also contemplated getting rid of it and getting a newer compact tractor, which is something that honestly would suit our needs a lot better. But I can't very well get rid of this tractor in it's current state.

 

[XJSuperman]

The cost to replace and upgrade to something newer will likely be substantially more than fixing it. Would a rototiller or plow/disk setup fit into the budget to help with break-in and allow for future chores? Is there a friend or neighbor who'll let you plow a couple acres or something else to get some hours on the rebuild? Are there features you "need" that could help justify an upgrade? Or are you ok with replacing it with another old utility tractor that could potentially have the same or worse wear and tear on it?
Hard to start doesn't mean you can't sell as-is. Non-running and hard-starting are different.

 

[madison069]

Have you performed a compression test on the engine?

 

[jollygreengiant]

The cost to replace and upgrade to something newer will likely be substantially more than fixing it. Would a rototiller or plow/disk setup fit into the budget to help with break-in and allow for future chores? Is there a friend or neighbor who'll let you plow a couple acres or something else to get some hours on the rebuild? Are there features you "need" that could help justify an upgrade? Or are you ok with replacing it with another old utility tractor that could potentially have the same or worse wear and tear on it?
Hard to start doesn't mean you can't sell as-is. Non-running and hard-starting are different.

That's a good point, I could see about a plow/disk on some neighbor's land. That would entail finding a plow/disk, which shouldn't be too hard though I wouldn't have any use for it after.

There's no real "features" that I'm lacking with this tractor, the only real drawback is it's weight. At near 6,000lbs I have to be real selective on where I drive it other than the gravel areas. Something at 1/3rd of that weight would make things much more practical in that regard. But as you said, the cost to upgrade will be a lot more than fixing it; is that worth it for a lighter machine? I'm leaning towards no but not completely sure.

Have you performed a compression test on the engine?

No I haven't. My compression tester doesn't have the right adapter. I've been looking online for one but can't find one either, So I may need something machined to fit.

I had another thought that if I was to have someone look at it he should have the right adaptor. And he'd also be able to tell me if I missed something that's more obvious to the more experienced. I wouldn't say my mechanical skills are poor, but my experience with diesel engines isn't all that extensive.

 

[xtremek]

That's a good point, I could see about a plow/disk on some neighbor's land. That would entail finding a plow/disk, which shouldn't be too hard though I wouldn't have any use for it after.

Plowing your garden?

 

[jollygreengiant]

Plowing your garden?

Can't do that with how it's setup now, not with the fence around it. I could if I take the fence down, which I have contemplated doing. We don't really seem to have much pest problems here, likely do to the large number of coyotes in the area. As it is I think I've only actually had it fully closed for maybe a couple weeks in the last few years.

 

[dmittz]

Yes that is something to consider with the tractor. As I see it, one option is to just use a block heater on the tractor for an hour or so before each time you use it if that makes starting it possible. You can get things like wifi plugs that would allow you to activate the heater remotely. So you could do that and just hope it keeps running for a while to buy yourself some time.

Now from personal experience I will say sometimes having old stuff is fun and saves some money but if its always breaking down, taking you away from other projects that you really need to do, or if just doesn't work half the time then it might not be worthwhile and might be best to sell and buy new or newer.

I will say My John Deere 2032R has been a pretty bullet proof machine, and has done everything I asked of it, and its also easy to service/work on myself so the ongoing cost of ownership is low, actually the biggest cost is the $33/mo it costs to have it insured at replacement value. Now I will say I bought it because as you know I had a lot of work to do on the property I bought and would have been paying a lot of money to rent machines or hire companies with equipment to do all the work I had to do. If I didn't have a bunch of land clearing and construction work the cost would have been vwry hard to justify. Which brings me to my next point and that is the cost of a new tractor is substantial.
So i'd say if you find yourself using the tractor a lot and really need it, then if you can afford it buying a new tractor might make a lot of sense as it will just work, you won't have to worry about it and can do all the other things you need to do. Additionally you will gain a bunch or new features if you want them, such as a removable loader, quick connects, rear hydralics, quick attach 3pt, mid PTO, 3rd function, light options, built-in block heaters, 4wd, much newer style radial tire options etc... Also I can say I have never regretted buying my tractor new.

On the other hand if the tractor is more of a nice to have item that you don't use all that much or don't really need. Then i'd just try to limp the old one along as long as possible.

Finally, if you do buy a new tractor make sure to get one large enough to do the stuff you need to do and give lots of though to what 'options' will be useful and worthwhile when ordering it. And of course be sure it can run an implements you already own.

 

[jollygreengiant]

Yes that is something to consider with the tractor. As I see it, one option is to just use a block heater on the tractor for an hour or so before each time you use it if that makes starting it possible. You can get things like wifi plugs that would allow you to activate the heater remotely. So you could do that and just hope it keeps running for a while to buy yourself some time.

The problem there is that it's at the point where if it gets too cold nothing will get it started. There was one morning this past winter when we had a cold snap, and the interior of the shop got down to -10C. I had a magnetic oil pan heater on it overnight, the coolant heater on it for 5 hours, and a battery charger on it, and it would not start. As it is currently I have to have the coolant heater on for a few hours and it still takes a lot of cranking to start.

Now from personal experience I will say sometimes having old stuff is fun and saves some money but if its always breaking down, taking you away from other projects that you really need to do, or if just doesn't work half the time then it might not be worthwhile and might be best to sell and buy new or newer.

That's my problem. I like the older stuff too, but when that older stuff takes time it becomes a problem. I have way too many other things to do, and some of them are getting to the point where they need to be done soon. And my available time to work on projects is a fraction of what it used to be a few years ago. I wish I could just make a call and have all this stuff done, but then we run into the financial problem (never having enough of it, and I'm one who is the opposite of most of my generation and don't want a pile of debt) and the other problem I posted above where even professionals don't do it right and I end up fixing it anyways.

I will say My John Deere 2032R has been a pretty bullet proof machine, and has done everything I asked of it, and its also easy to service/work on myself so the ongoing cost of ownership is low, actually the biggest cost is the $33/mo it costs to have it insured at replacement value. Now I will say I bought it because as you know I had a lot of work to do on the property I bought and would have been paying a lot of money to rent machines or hire companies with equipment to do all the work I had to do. If I didn't have a bunch of land clearing and construction work the cost would have been vwry hard to justify. Which brings me to my next point and that is the cost of a new tractor is substantial.
So i'd say if you find yourself using the tractor a lot and really need it, then if you can afford it buying a new tractor might make a lot of sense as it will just work, you won't have to worry about it and can do all the other things you need to do. Additionally you will gain a bunch or new features if you want them, such as a removable loader, quick connects, rear hydralics, quick attach 3pt, mid PTO, 3rd function, light options, built-in block heaters, 4wd, much newer style radial tire options etc... Also I can say I have never regretted buying my tractor new.

On the other hand if the tractor is more of a nice to have item that you don't use all that much or don't really need. Then i'd just try to limp the old one along as long as possible.

Finally, if you do buy a new tractor make sure to get one large enough to do the stuff you need to do and give lots of though to what 'options' will be useful and worthwhile when ordering it. And of course be sure it can run an implements you already own.

That size machine would be about perfect for me, but I can't justify something like that for how much I would use it. There's certainly lots I would do with it, but even a used machine like that is way outside the budget range. There's some used 1025R's that are getting more in range but I worry how well that size of a machine would do blowing heavy packed snow.

I think if my current tractor would just work that I could keep making due with it. It has its limitations and other issues but I've been able to make it work for five years now.

 

[dmittz]

The problem there is that it's at the point where if it gets too cold nothing will get it started. There was one morning this past winter when we had a cold snap, and the interior of the shop got down to -10C. I had a magnetic oil pan heater on it overnight, the coolant heater on it for 5 hours, and a battery charger on it, and it would not start. As it is currently I have to have the coolant heater on for a few hours and it still takes a lot of cranking to start.



That's my problem. I like the older stuff too, but when that older stuff takes time it becomes a problem. I have way too many other things to do, and some of them are getting to the point where they need to be done soon. And my available time to work on projects is a fraction of what it used to be a few years ago. I wish I could just make a call and have all this stuff done, but then we run into the financial problem (never having enough of it, and I'm one who is the opposite of most of my generation and don't want a pile of debt) and the other problem I posted above where even professionals don't do it right and I end up fixing it anyways.



That size machine would be about perfect for me, but I can't justify something like that for how much I would use it. There's certainly lots I would do with it, but even a used machine like that is way outside the budget range. There's some used 1025R's that are getting more in range but I worry how well that size of a machine would do blowing heavy packed snow.

I think if my current tractor would just work that I could keep making due with it. It has its limitations and other issues but I've been able to make it work for five years now.

Yep, I hear you there is never enough time or money and always too many projects that demand both. and I know being a father myself that after having kids your time is valuable.

And yes, taking on debt on, is another thing you have to really watch and only do if it makes financial sense (investment that makes income, business etc...) or if its something you have no choice and must buy so I get that aspect too.

Here's another idea for you consideration, sounds like you have several months before it gets cold again to decide, but what if you take that time to look for a good deal on a used but newer tractor of the size you need to get the work done you need it for, lets say something with around 500hrs or so on it, so its newer and functional but your not paying the brand new price. When you find a deal buy that tractor and just use it, park the old tractor, then do whatever urgent/high priority projects you need to get done and once those things are out of the way try to do whatever major repairs the old tractor needs and once you get it fixed then sell one of the tractors to recoupe some money. Assuming you can get the old tractor fixed within a year or so you won't lose much on depreciation if you resell one of the tractors and if you need to take out a bit of debt to temporarily finance it your interest costs for only 1 year would likely be less than paying some mobile mechanic $100-$200hr for a major rebuild on the old tractor.
One other thing to look into of course is can you get parts such as bearing, rings, head gasket for the old tractor? if so then it might be something to consider, but its your call of course.

 

[sublime68charger]

Just my off the hip idea, Get a John deere 318/322/420 Garden Tractor with Cab and Snow Blower for snow removal. It may take a bit longer but you'd be in a cab and a bit warmer than just outside. Then find a old ford 8n/jubliee with a loader and rear blade as backup for snow removal. The old fords are pretty simple and gas engines start a bit better in the cold of winter. For the amount of time you use the tractor the hassle of the diesel starting not gonna be better for the better power and performance you can get from diesel engines.

just my off thoughts. For light snow's and warm temps the ford and rear blade. Loader to push the banks bank. For deeper snows the 47 snow blower on the for mention JD is a beast and will move the snow plus your looking foward at the snow your moving.

 

[jollygreengiant]

Yep, I hear you there is never enough time or money and always too many projects that demand both. and I know being a father myself that after having kids your time is valuable.

And yes, taking on debt on, is another thing you have to really watch and only do if it makes financial sense (investment that makes income, business etc...) or if its something you have no choice and must buy so I get that aspect too.

Here's another idea for you consideration, sounds like you have several months before it gets cold again to decide, but what if you take that time to look for a good deal on a used but newer tractor of the size you need to get the work done you need it for, lets say something with around 500hrs or so on it, so its newer and functional but your not paying the brand new price. When you find a deal buy that tractor and just use it, park the old tractor, then do whatever urgent/high priority projects you need to get done and once those things are out of the way try to do whatever major repairs the old tractor needs and once you get it fixed then sell one of the tractors to recoupe some money. Assuming you can get the old tractor fixed within a year or so you won't lose much on depreciation if you resell one of the tractors and if you need to take out a bit of debt to temporarily finance it your interest costs for only 1 year would likely be less than paying some mobile mechanic $100-$200hr for a major rebuild on the old tractor.
One other thing to look into of course is can you get parts such as bearing, rings, head gasket for the old tractor? if so then it might be something to consider, but its your call of course.

I haven't looked into the parts issue too much yet other than a quick google search but I was finding overhaul kits available for about $700.

That's some good points on a new-ish tractor. A new one definitely isn't in the budget but I see that prices for 5-10 year old ones are coming down. But of course the flip side to that is my old one isn't worth as much either.

Just my off the hip idea, Get a John deere 318/322/420 Garden Tractor with Cab and Snow Blower for snow removal. It may take a bit longer but you'd be in a cab and a bit warmer than just outside. Then find a old ford 8n/jubliee with a loader and rear blade as backup for snow removal. The old fords are pretty simple and gas engines start a bit better in the cold of winter. For the amount of time you use the tractor the hassle of the diesel starting not gonna be better for the better power and performance you can get from diesel engines.

just my off thoughts. For light snow's and warm temps the ford and rear blade. Loader to push the banks bank. For deeper snows the 47 snow blower on the for mention JD is a beast and will move the snow plus your looking foward at the snow your moving.

I've thought about something like that, getting a gas tractor instead since it would be a lot easier to start in the winter. But they are really hard to find anymore in decent condition around here. Same thing with the large garden tractors, there's not many older ones that I see in good condition and the ones that are, are priced similar to an older tractor.

 

[xtremek]

I didn't even think of an old 8n. I'm surprised they're not everywhere on your side of the lake. There seem to be a bunch of them around here.

 

[jollygreengiant]

I didn't even think of an old 8n. I'm surprised they're not everywhere on your side of the lake. There seem to be a bunch of them around here.

I don't think Ford tractors were as popular here as in the US. We have lots of old MF, Oliver/Cockshutt/white, IH, etc but 8N's aren't that common.

 

[PhantomEB]

One thing I would love to add to your thinking as who knows how often some of us may attend to certain machines, but one thing I got added to my arsenal is 12v solar panels added to sheds, vehicles and trailers…..keeps the battery excited with somewhat of a trickle charger so never come to a dead battery.

I have two on my enclosed trailer that always faces south, went camping in the trees (only used interior lights sparsely but charged up hearing aid batteries as well my cellphone and nevr went under 11.9. Gonna be adding in two more panels for a battery tender to a future ATV.

 

[loganb]

8N's aren't that common.

Controversial opinion...but you're better off avoiding the 8N's. They were popular in the states as they were cost effective, but I've never met someone who is familiar with mutiple models/brands in that size range who has positive things to say about an 8N...better then no tractor....yes....but thats about it.

 

[sublime68charger]

I didn't even think of an old 8n. I'm surprised they're not everywhere on your side of the lake. There seem to be a bunch of them around here.

Your not here for the thinking part just the comedy relief and the ER trip updates so we all know what not to due and how not to try!

Just kidding xtremek your input is way more insightful than mine most of the time of courseLOL!

I would think there be a plenty of the old ford's around for a good price.
But it may be there just alot in my area I guess