Move plumbing or use a 90?

[ps2cho]

New water heater is taller than existing supply and return water heater lines.

Would you all recommend I pull off the drywall and move it inside the wall up, or just do a 90 upwards?

Is all the extra drywall effort worth it in this case? How would you all tackle this?

 

[Jackfre]

Depends upon how the new water heater fits with the 90 installed. It is a mechanical area and you aren’t going to make it look any better or worse than it is all ready. However, you do need clear access to a full port ball valve for the shut-off, so…

 

[Bunsen Honeydew]

I'd see if the high base the current heater is mounted on is really necessary. I think I remember from your other thread that there is also a step up in the concrete as well. You'll have to check codes for water heater placement in a garage in your area. it needs to be raised from the floor, but I don't know how much.
The wall you removed was not necessary, perhaps that tall base is not required either.

 

[ps2cho]

I'd see if the high base the current heater is mounted on is really necessary. I think I remember from your other thread that there is also a step up in the concrete as well. You'll have to check codes for water heater placement in a garage in your area. it needs to be raised from the floor, but I don't know how much.
The wall you removed was not necessary, perhaps that tall base is not required either.

It was necessary to remove the wall - the new heater was too wide to fit. It was a very thin space before…barely fit any regular options…and a 40gal for 5 bedroom house was just undersized we always run out.

I don’t want to adjust the base so I can at least claim it’s a “barrier” for vehicles.

I was thinking if I went a 90 degree bend upwards I could put a new shutoff valve and orient so it can turned on/off.

It’s only about 4” too low to clear, but I also don’t want it to look like a hack job - hence if any of you with more plumbing experience think a 90deg up and a shut off valve would look bad, I’ll try my best with drywall repair to blend and paint, just slows the job down as I know the wife won’t want zero hot water for days

 

[Bunsen Honeydew]

Not saying the wall removal was not necessary, but that the wall was not necessary.
I don't see why a 90 up wouldn't work fine, if you can easily reach it to close the valve. It'll be almost behind the upper part of the old wall anyhow.
Don't worry about how it would look, nobody's going to be staring at it anyhow.

 

[TRWham]

You need to add an expansion tank, so the plumbing will need to be reworked for that regardless.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

You need to add an expansion tank, so the plumbing will need to be reworked for that regardless.

No need for an expansion tank if you have a well pump and tank…….. City water YES.

 

[larry4406]

No need for an expansion tank if you have a well pump and tank…….. City water YES.

If the city water meter does not have a back flow device, then I believe an expansion tank is not necessary (not disputing what Code may say is required). I will preface this statement by saying for about the first 10 years of my construction career starting late 2000, none of our homes on municipal water service had expansion tanks.

Only when I went to another county with a different municipal water supply (with required back flow device on the water service) did we start with expansion tanks.

OP - sorry for the thread derail.

 

[Wrench97]

I have city water and no expansion tank, in fact I've not seen one around here for hot water.

 

[fitter30]

If and when the water company changes the meter to a smart meter then you will need a expansion tank.

 

[InsanePyro]

They make flexible water heater hook up lines. Cut off the pipe at a appropriate place, compression fitting with male threads, then flex pipe to water heater.

 

[PoorUB]

You need to add an expansion tank, so the plumbing will need to be reworked for that regardless.

Not everyone needs an expansion tank.

It depends on if you have a pressure regulator on the supply into the house. I did HVAC for years and installed a lot of water heaters and never saw or installed a pressure tank on domestic water. It isn't required here.

If and when the water company changes the meter to a smart meter then you will need a expansion tank.

The city is in the process of installing smart meters and not one word about pressure tanks.

I find it a bit funny how people say you need this or that just because they do in their area. Plus the powers that be can amend the code book and toss out or add if they see fit. I live in a metro area on a state line. For years one city followed one code book, the other city, something else. It was fun remembering where you were.

 

[welder4956]

New water heater is taller than existing supply and return water heater lines.

Would you all recommend I pull off the drywall and move it inside the wall up, or just do a 90 upwards?

Is all the extra drywall effort worth it in this case? How would you all tackle this?

If it were mine, I would do a 90 deg. ell up, add 4" of pipe, then a 90 deg. ell to the shutoff valve, then the flex lines to the heater inlet/outlet.

 

[mike93lx]

If and when the water company changes the meter to a smart meter then you will need a expansion tank.

Or if you have a PRV.

 

[dscheidt]

They make flexible water heater hook up lines. Cut off the pipe at a appropriate place, compression fitting with male threads, then flex pipe to water heater.

Around here, they’re generally considered the sign of a hack, a real plumber can figure out how to run pipe.(My water heater has them, because it had to be removed and reinstalled every day during a construction project in the basement. ). But, I understand they are required some places in earthquake country.

 

[ps2cho]

If it were mine, I would do a 90 deg. ell up, add 4" of pipe, then a 90 deg. ell to the shutoff valve, then the flex lines to the heater inlet/outlet.

Ok thanks! Since I’m doing it myself I just didn’t want it to be a “hack job” but at the same time removing the drywall and patching it will add a lot of extra time since I wouldn’t be able to get behind the tank later and would need it all done before.

Not saying the wall removal was not necessary, but that the wall was not necessary.
I don't see why a 90 up wouldn't work fine, if you can easily reach it to close the valve. It'll be almost behind the upper part of the old wall anyhow.
Don't worry about how it would look, nobody's going to be staring at it anyhow.

Thanks!

You need to add an expansion tank, so the plumbing will need to be reworked for that regardless.

No backflow preventer so I’m clear - no houses here in the community have one.

 

[fitter30]

Not everyone needs an expansion tank.

It depends on if you have a pressure regulator on the supply into the house. I did HVAC for years and installed a lot of water heaters and never saw or installed a pressure tank on domestic water. It isn't required here.


The city is in the process of installing smart meters and not one word about pressure tanks.

I find it a bit funny how people say you need this or that just because they do in their area. Plus the powers that be can amend the code book and toss out or add if they see fit. I live in a metro area on a state line. For years one city followed one code book, the other city, something else. It was fun remembering where you ww

People used lead pipe for water lines and some are still stuck with them. Glad i came from a area that upgraded their codes at least 7-10 years. Water company that cared about drinking water safety with backflows for sprinkler systems and upgraded water meters that have double checks. Think it's great with all the new refrigerates, lap tops for sevicework and email or chat1 to the factory tech. As a service person i only had one thing to sell - my time.

 

[InsanePyro]

Around here, they’re generally considered the sign of a hack, a real plumber can figure out how to run pipe.(My water heater has them, because it had to be removed and reinstalled every day during a construction project in the basement. ). But, I understand they are required some places in earthquake country.

As a guy thats 6' 5" working with a basement that I swear must be about 5' tall, I was good with anything that was safe but got me out from that basement faster. About two months later and I haven't had a problem.