C'mon, Outlaw--any old rust-bucket driver should know all you all you need for a rust-patch is the aluminum duct-tape!Today was mostly "body work" If you can call putting patches on rust holes on the T-van body - "body work"
I know this is not a forever fix, but it's also not a forever rig. Its my camping beater.
I started with the SS patch I made a week back but had not installed. I did that and its in with 6 screws where there is still un-rusted steel. Then, as the SS was several inches too short to cover more I made up aluminum from flashing to cover those and used the same HVAC "repair tap" to attached them. This is the tape that had been covering the holes for 6 years or so and it's one fault is you can put a finger through it pretty easily. It lasted in the sun with no issues!
Learned today they do make this tape with a heavier aluminum backing but the Aluminum (and SS is required to get under the window rubber and its actually making a decent seal to the patches.
I'd have needed the aluminum anyway for where I had to get a bit creative on bends
SS and 2 aluminum patches the right side Aluminum had to get a near 90 deg bend back to and under the rubber, with an upwards kick:
Left corner of the right side back window needed the opposite upwards kick - the aluminum is exposed the tape is on the edges:
Left corner of the left side back window need the same upwards kick the horizontal "crease"maps to the body crease:
Back door left side of the window. -easier as the metal went straight up under the rubber:
Same on the right rear door window:
And a simple patch for a hole in the lower right corner of the body it did need a kick to map to the body. not sure why this one rusted, as it had no real avenue for the salt from SF Fog to get to it?
I'll hit these tomorrow on both sides above the gutter:
Any electrical job not resulting in flames or smoke is a job well done!Finished the Level 2 charger.
Had to shut the power down for a couple of hours but I figured that I did pretty good for not being an electrician.
Had an old Bronco years ago. Roof over driver's door rusted out. That aluminum duct tape worked perfect for a couple years.
The seller’s name is Hullsfabrication.
Good eye!
That was indeed 1/4" and yeah, plenty overkill
One thing about Land Cruisers is, you either have to make it yourself or pay a bunch of money for something. This is especially true for armor.
Or grain sacks and tar!
If I had a dollar for every time I've seen the magic smoke....
Have you tried any YouTube offerings?
check around the place for an old bearded guy, that turned out to be the culprit in my caseAm I the only one who cleans the workbench only to have it mysteriously get messed up all by itself with in 24 hours
No fair, you have too many Vettes, you’re gonna have to give me one.This job started going back together yesterday.
High beams are usually a bad idea in foggy weather.
High beams in fog are always a bad idea.
Right, I call them "fog lights" but they are more like LED driving lights. I am basically using them as high beams since they way-overpower my OEM high beams.
his buddy do the patch work. She said, "no problem, I'll get my dad to do the drywall work"My coworker, Bubba, reminds me that for structural rust repair, you'll also need spray foam.
It's truly amazing how many people I know have never heard of the "splint" trick for drywall patching. They always want to cut back to the studs.Not in my shop, but at my daughter's house. Electrician did some rewiring. Offered her a pretty good discount if he didn't have to have
Made her help me so she'd know how to do it in the future.
First coat of mud is done. Only took about an hour....
Yeah, thats exactly what my daughter thought we were going to do. When I showed up with a 2x2 piece of sheet rock, she was confused thinking we needed a much bigger piece
I have used Paint Sticks to support Dry Wall patches
