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Riding Mower Fuel Shut-off Solenoid

Mick56

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Nov 11, 2015
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Janesville Wisconsin
Have a 1992 John Deere rider with a K Series 12.5hp Kohler engine. The fuel shut-off solenoid has begun leaking gas from around the end where the crimping is. It has also quit working, the pintle is easy to move, but it does not retract when energized. A new one from JD is $100, a cheapie on eBay is around 18. Do I even need it? It seems to run the same as it always did. If the pintle is not retracting, how does it even run? I thought that shuts off the gas. I thought about pulling the pintle out, and plugging the hole with a small lead shot.
 

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lolaetype

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North Western Arkansas
Have you looked on Amazon?

I had a leaking one on my Cub Cadet. I could smell gas in the garage as the fuel It leaked through to the extent that it went into muffler. I replaced it and the problem persisted. To solve that problem I put a manual shut off valve between the fuel tank and the fuel filter. Simple enough to reach in and turn it on and off as necessary.
 
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Firebrick43

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West central Indiana
Have a 1992 John Deere rider with a K Series 12.5hp Kohler engine. The fuel shut-off solenoid has begun leaking gas from around the end where the crimping is. It has also quit working, the pintle is easy to move, but it does not retract when energized. A new one from JD is $100, a cheapie on eBay is around 18. Do I even need it? It seems to run the same as it always did. If the pintle is not retracting, how does it even run? I thought that shuts off the gas. I thought about pulling the pintle out, and plugging the hole with a small lead shot.
First, take a picture of the engine and carb because I have never seen an Kohler K series or magnum with a bowl mounted anti dieseling solenoid. They were a rare option and the ones I have seen and the ones in my Kohler manual are not mounted to the carb but push on the throttle/governor rod forward/throttle plate close

Are you sure it’s just not retracting but that the spring isn’t shoving it forward enough?

The plunger pushes against the main jet and kills flow. You don’t want to put a piece of shot there??? Why would you want to do that?

It looks like a later series engine where the anti diesel solinoid holds the bowl on the carb. You just replace it with a bowl bolt if you don’t want to use it and deal with the possible dieseling that can happen when the engine is hot
 

Firebrick43

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If it didnt need it John Deere would not have spent a dime on it :) It probably keeps the carb from flooding if the float sticks etc. Try Jacks Small Engines and see what they have:

Not sure if I would trust the $18 import.
That is not how they work or the reason they were installed. . John Deere in the late 60’s and even IH in the 70’s started putting them on tractors so they didn’t diesel when shut down hot after working hard. The feature later was put on garden tractors and mowers.

They don’t seal the main jet well enough to keep a **** float from filling the carb and flooding the crankcase. They just block it enough to keep most of the fuel from being sucked throughout the main jet and out the Venturi upon shut down.

To keep the tractors carbs from flooding they started putting mechanical fuel pumps and later vacuum pumps even when they had gravity tanks. Kohler itself started installing the across the line not only for John’s deere but on cub cadets, gravely, wheel horse in the mid 70’s
 
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Mick56

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Janesville Wisconsin
The 100 dollar part would exceed the value of the mower, and I dont really trust the China part. Am looking to see if I can get away with disabling it. Looked up a parts manual, and some had it and some did not. This engine has a mech fuel pump higher than the carb.
 
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Firebrick43

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That appears to be an FB460V Kawasaki engine. Few actually had the anti dieseling solenoid installed. It was a common engine on smaller commercial walkbehinds. Good motors. I have it’s bigger brother on my exmark turf tracer.

Since it sets at a right angle to the main jet there has to passages in the bowl.

I would assume that the standard both would just swap over but you know what assumptions make.
 

38Chevy454

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Cincinnati, OH
Sort of related, I got a cheap Cub Cadet lawn tractor with a 18 hp B&S V-twin. It had a similar plunger that was wired through oil pressure switch. Idea being shut off engine fuel before destroying bottom end. Well, my plunger wasn't retracting with ignition on due to corrosion. So I just cut the end off. Screwed back into carb and engine runs great. Zero dollar fix for something I don't need.
 

gba2331

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What do you have to lose except $18 by trying the Chinese part?
 

Recoveryman

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Aug 18, 2015
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Southern indiana
Mick56: Have you thought about using a manual shutoff in lieu of the electric valve? I bought one at my local lawn mower shop that was for a chain saw. When I get ready to mow, turn it on, when done, turn it off. Simple and safe. Good luck.
Recoveryman
 
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Mick56

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Janesville Wisconsin
Mick56: Have you thought about using a manual shutoff in lieu of the electric valve? I bought one at my local lawn mower shop that was for a chain saw. When I get ready to mow, turn it on, when done, turn it off. Simple and safe. Good luck.
Recoveryman
The fuel line comes out of the tank and goes to the fuel pump, which is higher than the tank. Then goes down to the carb, so there would be no gravity feed. Shouldn't need a shut off. That's why I'm wondering the purpose of the solenoid, as it isn't even working.
 

Two Speed

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Sep 20, 2014
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Ontario Canada
If it where mine, I'd just put in a manual shut-off in place of the solenoid. Might do a slow siphon drain of the tank if left open.
 

jhelrey

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Sep 15, 2010
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MN
That solenoid is what closes when a safety switch is engaged, which cuts the fuel supply and kills the motor.
 
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