Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Jar944's 3car cabinet shop.
- Thread starter jar944
- Start date
Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.
casmurbax
Well-known member
nice looking dogs there Jar
Case in point
And spent a bit of time tearing out stuff we planned to replace it with things that fit better.
In this case a volunteer crepe myrtle got moved from the back yard to the front yard. No idea if it's going to survive. I didn't realize it sprouted off a main tree root until I had it mostly dug up. Couldn't stay where it was anyway.
Pulled thus out if the bed. It was supposed to be a small daisy, ita about 6-7' across.
Took the opportunity to add a bit more stone to the wall and bring up the grade of the bed by a foot or so. I didn't do it at the time i built the wall originally because of the existing plants... they all came out.
Not my best work on the dry stack wall this time.. but its in and hasn't fallen over.
I had just laid the wall around the slope originally, and just sort of filled in some areas with mulch to look more level but not kill the trees.
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cccoltsicehockey
Well-known member
Poor thing looks sad stuck behind that temporary gate. Why am I over here?
cccoltsicehockey
Well-known member
Oh, not the dreaded bath time. I have a dog that hates bath time so much I once tried to use a steak to lure him to the bathroom, and when he realized what was going on, he no longer wanted the steak and ran the other way.
After a surprise visit Friday im now on the Masons schedule for the third week of November to install stone veneer on grill atea extension, so I figured I needed to build the structure that's getting veneer.
I was going to have him lay the block but
1. He was 1k for 45 blocks just labor
2. I still had to build a wood frame and wrap it in cement board, add the SS doors, and lay the countertop.
If I can just squeeze in a couple hours in the next week I should be good.
Had a visitor checking out the progress
And completely unrelated has anyone built a largish 40"x120" shower? I'd like to redo the master bath with a wall to wall shower and separate heads/control on each end. It's currently setup with water lines and drainage on both ends so I have options. Looks like the kerdi shower trays are not close to that size.
I was going to have him lay the block but
1. He was 1k for 45 blocks just labor
2. I still had to build a wood frame and wrap it in cement board, add the SS doors, and lay the countertop.
If I can just squeeze in a couple hours in the next week I should be good.
Had a visitor checking out the progress
And completely unrelated has anyone built a largish 40"x120" shower? I'd like to redo the master bath with a wall to wall shower and separate heads/control on each end. It's currently setup with water lines and drainage on both ends so I have options. Looks like the kerdi shower trays are not close to that size.
ptt49er
Well-known member
Think ours is 36" x 72" or so. Can't remember now. Did a rubber liner with a mud pack bottom and cement board walls. Coated everything in aquadefense.
casmurbax
Well-known member
Are you looking for a shower pan that size?
I am thinking with a shower size that big, you might be better off with a no threshold one, if that is the case.
Build the slope into the floor of the shower. Tuck the drain into the wall.
in regards to to the separate wet walls, dumb question would be what are you using for hot water?
yea look who I am giving advise to...
I am thinking with a shower size that big, you might be better off with a no threshold one, if that is the case.
Build the slope into the floor of the shower. Tuck the drain into the wall.
in regards to to the separate wet walls, dumb question would be what are you using for hot water?
yea look who I am giving advise to...
larry4406
Well-known member
Very nice!After a surprise visit Friday im now on the Masons schedule for the third week of November to install stone veneer on grill atea extension, so I figured I needed to build the structure that's getting veneer.
I was going to have him lay the block but
1. He was 1k for 45 blocks just labor
2. I still had to build a wood frame and wrap it in cement board, add the SS doors, and lay the countertop.
If I can just squeeze in a couple hours in the next week I should be good.
Had a visitor checking out the progress
And completely unrelated has anyone built a largish 40"x120" shower? I'd like to redo the master bath with a wall to wall shower and separate heads/control on each end. It's currently setup with water lines and drainage on both ends so I have options. Looks like the kerdi shower trays are not close to that size.
We are underway on our master bath extension project. It will have a central door opening with his and her showers flanking the door opening. The total shower will be around 4x12'. It will have a sloped curbless shower with linear drains (2) butted with a decorative splice. All Schluter. It will also be heated.
It is framed with a 2" drop in the deck. The drains will be along the end window wall tight to the wall, under the floating seats.
ptt49er
Well-known member
We used a linear drain and I decided to put it at one end of the shower, I should have centered it on the long wall. Putting it at one end required more slope that I really liked. Hindsight and all. Not sure why I didn't think of that during construction.
I actually considered a curbless setup, but this will have walls on all sides ans a 3-4' opening in thr center of the 10' wall. A linear drain could work as the framing is parallel to the long side.
The hot water heater is a 80g propane unit set to a bit over 140 (it's 140 at the sink) so no issue keeping up. Water pressure/volume may or may not be a issue.
ptt49er
Well-known member
We did run two shower heads, one on the short wall and one of the long wall. Our well pump didn't have any problem keeping up. The old electric water heater wasn't able to maintain temps terribly long, the new on demand ng heater has no problems at all.
larry4406
Well-known member
Our slope will run the short direction of the shower for this reason. We have a 2" framed drop. At 1/4"/ft, it would support an 8' run, so we have plenty of fall.
We went with the long linear drains so that the shower floor will all be pitched in the same plane which allows use of large format tiles. When you go to centered single point drains, you need to switch to a smaller tile to conform to the "bowl shape" of the floor.
larry4406
Well-known member
Post up some sketches of the proposed shower. I can look thru my archives and available plans for ideas.
sawduststeve
Well-known member
Grrr ,you m’mericans and your space 
40” x 120” and 4 x 12 both bigger than our main bathroom I think I’m gonna go home and measure.
Grrrr
40” x 120” and 4 x 12 both bigger than our main bathroom I think I’m gonna go home and measure.
Grrrr
That's why we all got on the boat and left Steve! We just wanted gigantic shower stalls! The rest is just minor details.....Grrr ,you m’mericans and your space
40” x 120” and 4 x 12 both bigger than our main bathroom I think I’m gonna go home and measure.
Grrrr
I'm laughing because your bathroom plan is the same basic layout except the tub/vanity are flipped.
Still working out the details on the shower, can't decide between half walls with glass above or full walls at the tub and vanity. Leaning toward full walls. Single window dead center in line with the door.
When I did mine, I also went with a linear drain, but I felt like it was important to put it on the same wall as the shower head. - Main reason is that I believe my OCD would go nuts if I was standing on a floor that sloped either left or right (with my back to the shower head), but I could easily tolerate a floor that sloped either forwards or backwards.
larry4406
Well-known member
Very similar indeed!I'm laughing because your bathroom plan is the same basic layout except the tub/vanity are flipped.
Still working out the details on the shower, can't decide between half walls with glass above or full walls at the tub and vanity. Leaning toward full walls. Single window dead center in line with the door.
For our shower, the wall between the tub/vanity space and shower will be 2x6 framed and will be the wet wall with all the plumbing and the shower heads spray towards the window wall. Floor break pitch change will occur at the shower inside edge of the opening. This should keep the shower spray away from the opening and the initial plan is no enclosure at the opening for cost reasons; should the shower feel too cold, we will add a frameless enclosure that swings out on the flat floor.
I like to joke with my mom that my living room is larger than my grandparents house. It was also built without a bathroom or indoor plumbing so not really apples to apples..lol.Grrr ,you m’mericans and your space
40” x 120” and 4 x 12 both bigger than our main bathroom I think I’m gonna go home and measure.
Grrrr
larry4406
Well-known member
Because of the center shower door opening placement, you need to match the floor elevation of the main bathroom at that region. Thus, I don't see a 100% left/right cross slope working. You would need to pitch separately left/right from the door opening. That's why I pitched the floor down towards the window wall instead.
Ours is a new build. I scabbed the full length 2x10 joists with 2x8's in the region of the shower and then trimmed the tops of the 2x10 to create the drop. I have an intermediate beam to help accomplish this.
I am going to use 2 Kerdi-Line drains to achieve the nominal 12' finished width. Looks like they will be KL1V60E170. Will also use one of their FC connectors to simulate the centered splice. The splice and tile grout line will be centered on the door opening and be seamlessly continuous. Our tiles are 12x24 with a "high" PEI rating (ie rated for shower floors) for slip resistance in the shower as well as the floor.
Schluter®-KERDI-LINE | Shower Drains | Schluter
Schluter®-KERDI-LINE - Linear drain
www.schluter.com
Schluter®-KERDI-LINE-FC | Profiles | Schluter
Schluter®-KERDI-LINE-FC - Cover plate used to connect multiple KERDI-LINE drains
www.schluter.com
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larry4406
Well-known member
The windows will be picture framed with Schluter edging and the tile returned to the frame of the window. Example picture below. We will have (3) 3016 windows mounted up high. I have to utilize a portal frame that I will jack the 2x12 header up as high as it will go, and this will determine the window head height for me.
Here is how I used the Schluter edging at our kitchen window, and shows how the shower windows will finish out exactly (ignore the counter match window sill). This is what we do at the day job.
Because of the center shower door opening placement, you need to match the floor elevation of the main bathroom at that region. Thus, I don't see a 100% left/right cross slope working. You would need to pitch separately left/right from the door opening. That's why I pitched the floor down towards the window wall instead.
Ours is a new build. I scabbed the full length 2x10 joists with 2x8's in the region of the shower and then trimmed the tops of the 2x10 to create the drop. I have an intermediate beam to help accomplish this.
I am going to use 2 Kerdi-Line drains to achieve the nominal 12' finished width. Looks like they will be KL1V60E170. Will also use one of their FC connectors to simulate the centered splice. The splice and tile grout line will be centered on the door opening and be seamlessly continuous. Our tiles are 12x24 with a "high" PEI rating (ie rated for shower floors) for slip resistance in the shower as well as the floor.
Schluter®-KERDI-LINE | Shower Drains | Schluter
Schluter®-KERDI-LINE - Linear drainSchluter®-KERDI-LINE-FC | Profiles | Schluter
Schluter®-KERDI-LINE-FC - Cover plate used to connect multiple KERDI-LINE drains
My intention is a low curb which will also function as a break between the different tile inside the shower (3x6 subway on the walls and 1x2 basket weave for the floor) and main floor which will be 2" marble hex.
The floor is 14" I joists running across the 10' width, except for the tub area where they turned 90 degrees for the tub plumbing.
I *think* I can put the drain (or drains) wherever makes the most sense with the existing plumbing and framing (left side is a vanity right is the current shower) I hadn't considered shower heads on the inside wall, though I don't think 36-40" is deep enough which is why I had them on the ends.
ptt49er
Well-known member
We have one on the short wall, spraying the length and another spraying across the width. We end up using the one that sprays across the width the most.
larry4406
Well-known member
One of my review courses had some info on structural underlayments for curbless shower designs. I don't have any experience with this method. It is touted as a solution without having to depress the floor framing. The subfloor is removed and a special substrate is installed which contains the drain and sloped member.
@larry4406 Any concerns using the"latest" technology? I wouldn’t want to be the test subject and we’ve seen failures in the past like EIFS & other new tech.
larry4406
Well-known member
Like I said, I’ve no experience with that underlayment process.
I would be inclined to add blocking between joists held 3/4” low. Then add subfloor rips into the joists bays. Then put the underlayment on that to provide additional support.
larry4406
Well-known member
The company I work for is family owned and slow to change. They stay with proven ways and watch as technology develops before diving in. We/they are not first adopters.
Not sure if I have a better answer.
Anyone reading this thread likely knows I generally avoid hiring out work, but I'm short on time and looooooong on projects, So I decided to have the stone veneer for the outdoor kitchen extension done by the same company that did the patio. Easy enough, or so I thought.
Quote 1 was late October for $31.2/sqft labor (50 sqft total)
Contract they sent over on Nov 10 for $34.7/sqft labor (92 sqft total) no idea where he got that 92 from. I asked for a revised sqft based on the actual project.
Contract 2 (sent last night) was $54/sqft back at the original 50 sqft we spoke about.
After a phone call a few minutes ago we are back to $31.57/sqft.
I'm actually curious if the contract will match when its sent
Quote 1 was late October for $31.2/sqft labor (50 sqft total)
Contract they sent over on Nov 10 for $34.7/sqft labor (92 sqft total) no idea where he got that 92 from. I asked for a revised sqft based on the actual project.
Contract 2 (sent last night) was $54/sqft back at the original 50 sqft we spoke about.
After a phone call a few minutes ago we are back to $31.57/sqft.
I'm actually curious if the contract will match when its sent
LeonardY
Well-known member
Sounds like they don't want the work.Anyone reading this thread likely knows I generally avoid hiring out work, but I'm short on time and looooooong on projects, So I decided to have the stone veneer for the outdoor kitchen extension done by the same company that did the patio. Easy enough, or so I thought.
Quote 1 was late October for $31.2/sqft labor (50 sqft total)
Contract they sent over on Nov 10 for $34.7/sqft labor (92 sqft total) no idea where he got that 92 from. I asked for a revised sqft based on the actual project.
Contract 2 (sent last night) was $54/sqft back at the original 50 sqft we spoke about.
After a phone call a few minutes ago we are back to $31.57/sqft.
I'm actually curious if the contract will match when its sent
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
sawduststeve
Well-known member
Sadly this seems to be the normAnyone reading this thread likely knows I generally avoid hiring out work, but I'm short on time and looooooong on projects, So I decided to have the stone veneer for the outdoor kitchen extension done by the same company that did the patio. Easy enough, or so I thought.
Quote 1 was late October for $31.2/sqft labor (50 sqft total)
Contract they sent over on Nov 10 for $34.7/sqft labor (92 sqft total) no idea where he got that 92 from. I asked for a revised sqft based on the actual project.
Contract 2 (sent last night) was $54/sqft back at the original 50 sqft we spoke about.
After a phone call a few minutes ago we are back to $31.57/sqft.
I'm actually curious if the contract will match when its sent
It appears some companies can quite easily get three differing quotes for the same job, without even trying.
Good luck
Steve
casmurbax
Well-known member
Back at 31.57 sqft? Maybe I misread your post.....
Does seem odd that they are jumping around on you.
Does seem odd that they are jumping around on you.
Anyone reading this thread likely knows I generally avoid hiring out work, but I'm short on time and looooooong on projects, So I decided to have the stone veneer for the outdoor kitchen extension done by the same company that did the patio. Easy enough, or so I thought.
Quote 1 was late October for $31.2/sqft labor (50 sqft total)
Contract they sent over on Nov 10 for $34.7/sqft labor (92 sqft total) no idea where he got that 92 from. I asked for a revised sqft based on the actual project.
Contract 2 (sent last night) was $54/sqft back at the original 50 sqft we spoke about.
After a phone call a few minutes ago we are back to $31.57/sqft.
I'm actually curious if the contract will match when its sent
Normally I'd agree but he stopped over this past Friday to make sure I was still interested.
"Back" in that I told him id only pay 31.2 ans he asked if I could round up to the nearest 100 ($1872 vs $1900) some bs about not having the mortar or disposal included in the original (it was in there) then something about having to install the doors (they dont)
I'm not sure what's going on other than he just isn't paying attention and really just wants a minimum of roughly 3k for the day.