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Garage colors with metal ceiling

indymachinist

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Joined
Aug 23, 2019
Messages
7
Location
West Indianapolis
Hey everyone. I am in the process of choosing paint colors in my garage. My specific issue is I have “white” pro rib metal ceiling from menards. It is kind of a cool white… almost seems to have a tiny tinge of blue in it. Looks a very close match to Sherwin Williams Nebulous White SW 7063 or Reserved White SW 7056.

My issue is I had laid out a color combo I wanted to use without thinking about that, and I was going to paint a slightly warmer white at the top of the wall. (Was planning white upper walls, blue stripe, gray lower)

Am I over thinking this with the white wall potentially clashing with the white ceiling? Should I match the white on the walls with the ceiling panel white?

Thanks for any thoughts… Ive been stressing on this for days now.
 
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sayn3ver

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Joined
Jan 16, 2022
Messages
44
Hey everyone. I am in the process of choosing paint colors in my garage. My specific issue is I have “white” pro rib metal ceiling from menards. It is kind of a cool white… almost seems to have a tiny tinge of blue in it. Looks a very close match to Sherwin Williams Nebulous White SW 7063 or Reserved White SW 7056.

My issue is I had laid out a color combo I wanted to use without thinking about that, and I was going to paint a slightly warmer white at the top of the wall. (Was planning white upper walls, blue stripe, gray lower)

Am I over thinking this with the white wall potentially clashing with the white ceiling? Should I match the white on the walls with the ceiling panel white?

Thanks for any thoughts… Ive been stressing on this for days now.
look at some decorator/interior design blogs. Different whites can go together. I used a stock bright white on my home ceiling and the crown, trim ,doors and cabinets are a warmer white with a BM historic grey green wall color.

Whites, same shade different levels of sheen, will look like different colors as well in real life. Any windows in the shop will vary the appearance of the whites through the day.

Its not uncommon for ceiling whites to vary from wall or trim whites. But you may not like the look. Most don't notice the difference in white between drop ceiling tiles and white walls in commercial spaces for instance due to a difference in texture but you would be hard pressed to find any that match.

Food for thought.
 

drmarkr

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4,212
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The r panel on my ceiling is slightly warmer than the "bright white" on the upper part of my walls. You can tell that they're very slightly different but it doesn't look bad at all. I'm not sure people would even notice it unless I pointed it out. I have a red stripe through the middle about 10 in wide and then gray from about 42 in down to the floor.

I'll post a pic in a minute when I get home to show the contrast.
 

Fav Onefour

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Jul 14, 2022
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707
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MN cold and hot
I'm glad @drmarkr , posted pictures. Sometimes it's hard to envision without seeing.

One item that helps when they are close is a defined delineation. You see a great example in those pictures. The clean line between the two surfaces helps define the cut and eyes won't be drawn to the color variation as much.

I actually prefer to go away from trying to match the metal ceiling color. If it's close but not matching I think the overall look is wrong. The small contrast will look like you tried to match but missed. If the colors vary more, it looks like two different surface colors with intent.
Most living spaces have a separate ceiling color. In fact, ceiling white has a color group. It is normal to have a contrast and people will not draw their view to a typical variation between walls and ceiling.

There is some irony to my advice. We have apartments with walls and ceiling all painted the same color. That makes painting and touch up easy. No cutting edges and touch up is all in one can.
In this case, the metal ceiling is already a non maintenance surface. No need to worry about painting and patching unless you do something to the ceiling.

Go with whatever wall color you want. One tip for the ceiling. Keep that color code around if you ever need to match on ceiling work or repairs.
 

kngelv

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May 25, 2011
Messages
2,226
Location
Detroit, MI
drmarkr's walls look fine to me. I don't like matching ceilings and walls unless they are something natural like wood or the exact same material. If you have drywall walls then what you are thinking of doing is fine. I will say that the warmer white should still be in the same color family tone wise as the ceiling and the blue and gray. You don't want a yellowish tone for sure with the other white. I'm also 99% sure that no guy friend of yours will ever notice or care.

James
 

sayn3ver

Active member
Joined
Jan 16, 2022
Messages
44
Nope, not at all...mine is gray at bottom, white at top and ceiling with a blue stripe... various shades of each color... I think what is more important is the color of the lighting...all the same kelvin.
this. Nothing is more distracting than having any lighting in the entire space a different kelvin. Even the same kelvin number from different manufacturers or lot numbers isn't a guarantee. The one downside of led and florescent lighting.
 
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CraigStu

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May 22, 2014
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Blacksburg, Va
It will be just fine. Think of this. You have a 90deg angle wall to ceiling so lighting will make the 2 look different even if they were both drywall painted the exact same color. This is a pic of a work bay I had added on to our previous house. I sprayed the walls and ceiling the same color of slightly off white.
IMG_20150224_142927651.jpg
See how the two walls and ceiling look different even though they are identical.
 

rktinc

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Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
387
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Midwest/USA
I have spent hours over-thinking this very thing. I have agonized over paint sheens, colors, LRV, and base colors. I have learned a great deal in this process. One option would be to bring a scrap of your metal ceiling to Sherwin Williams which can color match your white. They can match it up so there is no guessing. I also like the idea of using one color but different sheens, Flat walls vs glossy metal in the same color would look great. That metal ceiling will need a trim piece. You might consider using a semi gloss on a trim piece in the same color then a flat on the sheetrock wall.

I found that it takes a super bright white to point out any type of meaningful off white to the naked eye. I did that in my shop build. The trim, beadboard, and ceiling are all semi-gloss "creamy" white. To make the contrast show up, I used a super bright white in a flat finish on an upper sheetrock wall. Without this bright white upper wall and bright white matte framing some artwork, the creamy/antique white would not be noticed. You also have to know what temp of lighting to use. I like warm white (not vintage yellow) but a normal, traditional white bulb color. My overheads are very bright LED's set at 4000 temp, but I rarely use them. most of the time I just use the LED cans set at about 3500 lumens. My door trim and cabinets are a very orange tinted antique white that I found by matching 100 year-old built in cabinets in this building. I suspect their warm/orange glow stems from the decaying lead paint. They really glow a warm orange under the warm lights, but turn pretty light tan when the super bright LED work lights are turned on.

Another trick I learned to consider is LRV = Light Reflective Value. Every paint color has one. Black would be a low number like 14 and off white would be a high number like 89. The rule is simple and really works in real life. If you choose two colors make sure they are at lease 30 LRV apart. For instance A machine gray of 40 LRV with a complementary lighter gray upper wall should be at least 70 LRV away from the 40 LRV. This also applies to different colors/hues. For instance a blue and a green side by side in the same LRV range will fight each other. However a darker blue with a 35 LRV paired with a light green of 65 LRV will look good together. It is a real magic trick once you learn it.

My big display area I am just now finishing uses two other tricks: 1.) color drenching (all one color) using flat, semigloss and satin on the same wall with lots of different trim work.

Second the "Three Color Rule" 1. a main color, 2. a major trim color, 3 and accent color. 1,2,3! The green walls, brown trim, and orange/brown doors illustrate this technique.

IMG_3990.jpeg

I love white walls in a garage. It seems to look clean, and not distract from the cars and other interesting things.

It really comes down to personal choice. Anything looks nice once it is painted. I prefer the more traditional white, greens, grays, that vintage machine shops and factories have used over the years. The reds, oranges, and other bright colors are too loud for my tastes, but again, anything clean and crisp looks nice.

F07A2A13-D709-4162-87F9-25AAAFFAFC6D_1_105_c.jpeg
 

strength_and_power

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Apr 26, 2015
Messages
1,406
Once you hang stuff on the walls and have rights light pointing down, it won’t be noticeable. The inevitable handprints will be so male sue you ask which paints cleans easy
 

Skooterj

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Mar 11, 2021
Messages
750
Location
Indiana
I have spent hours over-thinking this very thing. I have agonized over paint sheens, colors, LRV, and base colors. I have learned a great deal in this process. One option would be to bring a scrap of your metal ceiling to Sherwin Williams which can color match your white. They can match it up so there is no guessing. I also like the idea of using one color but different sheens, Flat walls vs glossy metal in the same color would look great. That metal ceiling will need a trim piece. You might consider using a semi gloss on a trim piece in the same color then a flat on the sheetrock wall.

I found that it takes a super bright white to point out any type of meaningful off white to the naked eye. I did that in my shop build. The trim, beadboard, and ceiling are all semi-gloss "creamy" white. To make the contrast show up, I used a super bright white in a flat finish on an upper sheetrock wall. Without this bright white upper wall and bright white matte framing some artwork, the creamy/antique white would not be noticed. You also have to know what temp of lighting to use. I like warm white (not vintage yellow) but a normal, traditional white bulb color. My overheads are very bright LED's set at 4000 temp, but I rarely use them. most of the time I just use the LED cans set at about 3500 lumens. My door trim and cabinets are a very orange tinted antique white that I found by matching 100 year-old built in cabinets in this building. I suspect their warm/orange glow stems from the decaying lead paint. They really glow a warm orange under the warm lights, but turn pretty light tan when the super bright LED work lights are turned on.

Another trick I learned to consider is LRV = Light Reflective Value. Every paint color has one. Black would be a low number like 14 and off white would be a high number like 89. The rule is simple and really works in real life. If you choose two colors make sure they are at lease 30 LRV apart. For instance A machine gray of 40 LRV with a complementary lighter gray upper wall should be at least 70 LRV away from the 40 LRV. This also applies to different colors/hues. For instance a blue and a green side by side in the same LRV range will fight each other. However a darker blue with a 35 LRV paired with a light green of 65 LRV will look good together. It is a real magic trick once you learn it.

My big display area I am just now finishing uses two other tricks: 1.) color drenching (all one color) using flat, semigloss and satin on the same wall with lots of different trim work.

Second the "Three Color Rule" 1. a main color, 2. a major trim color, 3 and accent color. 1,2,3! The green walls, brown trim, and orange/brown doors illustrate this technique.

IMG_3990.jpeg

I love white walls in a garage. It seems to look clean, and not distract from the cars and other interesting things.

It really comes down to personal choice. Anything looks nice once it is painted. I prefer the more traditional white, greens, grays, that vintage machine shops and factories have used over the years. The reds, oranges, and other bright colors are too loud for my tastes, but again, anything clean and crisp looks nice.

F07A2A13-D709-4162-87F9-25AAAFFAFC6D_1_105_c.jpeg
No need to take a sample anywhere. The Menard’s paint desk will have the exact color formula to match the ceiling metal. But I wouldn't try to match it. Go a bit darker or browner or grayer. Mono color is the worst thing you can do in my opinion.
 

BetterDays

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Joined
Mar 26, 2005
Messages
2,943
Location
Ohio
Came here expecting to one thing and walking away with a potential option when I want to redo my garage ceiling.
Instead of drywall/plaster/paint (which is peeeeeling), do I just overlay with metal ceiling? Would be a great time to do it when new outlets are being done and lighting (not sure if going can lighting or fancy hexagon lighting). The only issue would be around the garage door opens/supports, but that should not be that horrible.
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
Came here expecting to one thing and walking away with a potential option when I want to redo my garage ceiling.
Instead of drywall/plaster/paint (which is peeeeeling), do I just overlay with metal ceiling? Would be a great time to do it when new outlets are being done and lighting (not sure if going can lighting or fancy hexagon lighting). The only issue would be around the garage door opens/supports, but that should not be that horrible.
I would put the metal right over the drywall.

I built hangers for the O/H tracks rather than using perforated metal.
KIMG3304.JPG
 

rktinc

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Nov 25, 2007
Messages
387
Location
Midwest/USA
I would put the metal right over the drywall.

I built hangers for the O/H tracks rather than using perforated metal.
KIMG3304.JPG
That perferated metal strap that they use for overhead garage doors should be outlawed!!!! I have build 1/4" support for all of my garage doors over the years. Your single square tubing solution looks very nice. Bravo!
 

NUTTSGT

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That perferated metal strap that they use for overhead garage doors should be outlawed!!!! I have build 1/4" support for all of my garage doors over the years. Your single square tubing solution looks very nice. Bravo!
Thanks... what you can't see in the picture is a piece of 3" wide flat bar it's welded to and that is bolted to the bottom chord of the trusses.
 

rktinc

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Nov 25, 2007
Messages
387
Location
Midwest/USA
Thanks... what you can't see in the picture is a piece of 3" wide flat bar it's welded to and that is bolted to the bottom chord of the trusses.
Couldn't get my electician cousin to put the outlet in the attic to really clean it up. Some non-sense about codes.

RKTINC

IMG_4049.jpegIMG_4048.jpeg
 

drmarkr

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Feb 5, 2006
Messages
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Location
Tucson
I would put the metal right over the drywall.

I built hangers for the O/H tracks rather than using perforated metal.
KIMG3304.JPG
you were smart....you took the pic of the ceiling/wall junction, and not the mess on the benches below that....right??
 

NUTTSGT

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you were smart....you took the pic of the ceiling/wall junction, and not the mess on the benches below that....right??
No, not smart because I have posted those messy pictures before.... but yes smart because if you notice at the top of the wall, there's a drywall screw that can be seen. That screw head notes the location of the trusses above which made putting the ceiling up easier.
 
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