Question about common automotive fuses and tools to remove them

[Shelbylex]

Was trying to fill the tires on the car and Husky tire inflator blew the fuse (??? unclear how - replaced it and it worked well) Looks like a standard automotive 15A

Did not replace fuses on any cars for over 10 years, but should probably get a few "just in case" including more of 15A for Husky (looking for regular - I found a box of mini fuses in my toolbox - who knows how long ago I bought them...)

What do you use for regular size color coded fuses? Bussmann or the cheapest ones on Amazon?

And since we are on GJ, what tool do you use to remove them? (yes, I know, since I removed a fuse for the first time in many years, I do not need a dedicated tool)
My regular plastic puller ran away with somebodies 10mm socket. Thankfully had a second one. But now I am curious what people use. Needle nose pliers would definitely work. There are also niche built pliers - Jonard FP-600 (never used, but there is an ad for them). I bet some company from Japan has dedicated pliers).

Recommend the fuse type and/or make a picture of what you use to remove them

 

[charbar]

I would trust gas station condoms more than cheap fuses.

I think it was GM that even had a TSB about cheap fuses causing problems. They tested many of them and the fuses amperage rating was wildly inaccurate and inconsistent.


I buy Bussmann or Little in bulk from Waytek or Del City.

Needle nose pliers for most types of fuses. Unless it's a J Case then I use anger and a hammer.

 

[CoogarXR]

Back when I used to go to the junk yards so much that they knew me by name, I asked them if I could grab some fuses and bulbs from the cars in the crusher pile. I filled a big bag, lol. Every time I scrap a car I pull the fuses and bulbs too. I don't think I have ever bought a fuse new.

Same way with glass fuses. I pull them all when scrapping electronics.

 

[mikedodge]

If the plastic tool is gone needle nose pliers.
I try to stick with name brand fuses. But I've also noticed the last few years when there's something wrong on certain new vehicles or trailers when you get to fuses a bunch are corroded and black. Never saw that before.

 

[nh_yota]

I don't think I've had to change a fuse in 20 years but I still carry spares in my truck. The Bussman fuses sold at Walmart are just fine. I don't trust the cheap ones from Harbor Freight.

 

[Dave455]

I saw a test of some automotive fuses a while back, and it was pretty horrifying. Most of the unbranded / generic fuses didn’t blow till they were subjected to way more current than they should have taken. They were providing very limited protection in those cases.

Watching the thread with interest. I usually have a supply of fuses from scrapped vehicles, but if I had to buy new there’s no way I’d trust the unbranded / unknown ones.

OEM for most European vehicle manufacturers are MTA in Italy, and this side of the pond these are readily available.

As regards removal, the best tool I’ve found are these European style “duck bill” pliers. These are German Klauke, and have some age, but Knipex still offer essentially the same tool.

 

[dnschmidt]

Don't cheap out on fuses. Bussmann or Little are the only way to go. A lot of things you can buy at Harbor Freight with no ill-effect fuses aren't one of them.

 

[Buckaroo5]

Every time I scrap a car I pull the fuses and bulbs too. I don't think I have ever bought a fuse new.

I always grab the jack but fuses and bulbs are next level! Will do that next time and also the relays.

 

[AEAdam]

Hemostat forceps! The best for dealing with automotive fuses. Google or buy on Amazon or ebay.

 

[signcrafter]

I have a whole drawer of fuses and relays from the junkyard. I've bought a couple fuse boxes from junkyard because the car i was working on had bad ones. They come loaded with fuses when you pull them so I saved all the old ones. I asked one day how much for a bunch of fuses and relays and they said 5 bucks so i grabbed a bunch out of the cars marked to replace. Went to each section, ford, GM, chrysler, asain, german, etc and got a good selection from different cars of all shapes and sizes. I don't think I will ever have to buy a fuse again in my lifetime. If(when) they change to different styles of fuses and relays I will do the same thing. Yes, you take a risk of not knowing if the relays are good or not being they came from a used vehicle. But I haven't ran into a bad one yet and they are fairly easy to test out.

As to pulling them I use a variety of pliers, needle nose and kiwi pliers work decent. The hardest ones are the bigger square ones because they have bigger blades so hold better but the plastic cases are thin and break easy when squeezing them. Not sure what is best for them. I have a pliers for relays, think lisle makes them.

 

[L.Cheapo]

As others have said, No cheap fuses. My brother-in law's 300ZX fell victim to the faulty Harbor Freight fuses years ago. Melted the harness. Hasn't run since. Last I saw it was sinking into his asphalt driveway. Bussmann or Littelfuse from reputable sources only.

All of my vehicles have tiny plastic fuse pullers in the main fuse box. Otherwise I'd just use decent needle nose.

 

[Monte]

Mag-Mate fuse puller

 

[seber]

Every car and Truck I have driven in the last 25 years has had spare fuses and a puller in the fuse box. I can't remember the last time I had to buy one.

 

[signcrafter]

Mag-Mate fuse puller

Do these work on the bigger square cartridge type fuses or just blade fuses?

 

[dscheidt]

As to pulling them I use a variety of pliers, needle nose and kiwi pliers work decent. The hardest ones are the bigger square ones because they have bigger blades so hold better but the plastic cases are thin and break easy when squeezing them. Not sure what is best for them. I have a pliers for relays, think lisle makes them.

those fuses are best pulled by getting something underneath and pulling. I used to have a plastic pick that worked well, haven't seen it recently, but it's probably still around somewhere.

 

[shoggoth80]

I haven't had to replace too many in the real world. Now at work, when I was still officially a tech... Plenty. Fuse boxes would get wet, drivers would overload circuits. Stuff would short out etc. Always used a small pair of pliers, or needle nose. My daily driver has a puller in the box, but haven't had to use it. Options exist.

And yeah, junkyard looting fuses and common relays makes life a little easier on the off chance you actually do need them If I'm buying, Bussmsan is typically the go.

 

[Steve_P]

Like everyone has said, name brand from a reputable supplier- no Ebay or Amazon for me. One of the first test videos I saw on YouTube, probably 10+ years ago, was a guy testing the HF fuses and as said, it was scary; a 5A fuse was taking 20A+ to blow, etc. IIRC, HF had a recall on their fuses around that time.

 

[impactims]

Was trying to fill the tires on the car and Husky tire inflator blew the fuse (??? unclear how - replaced it and it worked well) Looks like a standard automotive 15A

Did not replace fuses on any cars for over 10 years, but should probably get a few "just in case" including more of 15A for Husky (looking for regular - I found a box of mini fuses in my toolbox - who knows how long ago I bought them...)

What do you use for regular size color coded fuses? Bussmann or the cheapest ones on Amazon?

And since we are on GJ, what tool do you use to remove them? (yes, I know, since I removed a fuse for the first time in many years, I do not need a dedicated tool)
My regular plastic puller ran away with somebodies 10mm socket. Thankfully had a second one. But now I am curious what people use. Needle nose pliers would definitely work. There are also niche built pliers - Jonard FP-600 (never used, but there is an ad for them). I bet some company from Japan has dedicated pliers).

Recommend the fuse type and/or make a picture of what you use to remove them

Needle nose pliers contact a very small area of the automotive blade fuse. Duck bill pliers are a much better option. Same basic idea, but they contact a large area and grip much better.

 

[Monte]

Do these work on the bigger square cartridge type fuses or just blade fuses?

I don´t own them